Tightmopedman9

Fuel injection hose yes. Why would using soft hose over the engine not be a good idea? (post 59) has been running soft hose since August with no problems. All the fittings, the ones from the rear of the car and the one on the rail are -5 37° fittings. If you want to confirm this on your lines just check that a 1/2-20 nut will screw onto the threads. Nope, no cruise since right before the manual swap. It stopped working before the swap and I never got around to fixing it. Maybe I'll do that sometime soon.

Anyone know what these connectors are? They are run along the bundle of small red wires going to the positive battery terminal. I'm pretty sure the one on the left is the headlight wiper.

I just got back from trying to figure out my fuel lines. Turns out it might be harder than I thought. The optimal connector would be a 90° 5/16" flare to 5/16" pushloc hose connector. However, 5/16" connectors are super hard to find. I went to the largest hydraulic guy in my town with a selection larger than most large hardware stores and he didn't have anything that could work without soldering. I'm looking online right now... If I could find a -5an female to -6an adaptor I would be all set. Or even a -5an female to -5an female coupler. EDIT: Found eveything I'll need. Two of these: Three of these: And about 6 feet of fuel injection line. The total comes out to about $35.

So just checked my fuel lines and they are -5an. I used a 1/2-20 nut on them and according to this chart that makes it a JIC 5.

I can tell you tomorrow. I can tell you for certain that they are smaller than -6an. I have the lines off the car right now and am taking them to a hydraulic shop tomorrow.

Well since his is dual VVT, as is mine there shouldn't be a problem.

My head is dual VVT, I was just wondering if the cam journals had changed at all between VVT versions.

Question regarding the head D S50R is offering. My cams will fit in his head, '05 2.5L LPT cams in a '04 LPT head, correct? Just want to save weight on shipping.

Just had my machinist over and he said the car was definitely running when the valves collided with the pistons, based on the depth of the impact marks. I called the junkyard and was basically told to fuck off. I'm calling my CC company to contest the charges. Fun!

You have an extra head in Portland? I'll be there Friday for a family reunion . I'll probably just grab a head in Denver where my parents live and take it to a local machinist.

You can't see much but here it is:

Carnage: Cylinder 1 Cylinder 2 Cylinder 3 Cylinder 4 Cylinder 5 Is that much crud in the cylinder normal?

Head bolts pulled and the head seperated, but I didn't realized the water pipe connection is holding the head on the block. Does the whole water pipe need to be removed?

Won't a new head come with a valve cover? Aren't they mated together?

Trying to separate the valve cover now, a little more difficult than I originally thought. In all honesty I probably won't get new rods, I need to get this thing on the road and it just isn't in my budget (as much as I would like it to be).

I'm going to start pulling the head now. Do I need something to hold the cams to the cover or can I just be careful and leave them on the bottom of the cover? Do I need to remove the VVT gears as well?

God damn you Robbie... I'd have to drop the pan for rods, no? What more work would I need to do? Well I'm in there I might as well do the rings too, but I heard they aren't sold separately from the pistons and you'd need a new hone. Despite new rods, wouldn't the 83mm bore still be the limiting factor? The stock head gasket quoted from VIDA, 30637066, is the MLS found on the S60R...

I'm really trying to save money here, but no sense in doing a half ass job if it will lead to problems down the road. Do you think the collision spots will create hot spots enough to warrant scraping the whole engine? I'm taking the head off tomorrow and will post some pictures when I'm done.

2005 I believe. I would like to put new valve stem seals in, but I wonder how much the shop cost would be?

Are the head and the block mated to each other in any way? I found a head in Denver and could look at it in person. If the valves are still sealed well and the surface was flat it would just be a simple swap, no? Thanks for all the help everyone!

Yeah, I'm bummed to say the least, but I'm staying positive and will get the problem fixed ASAP. It will have to go on hold for a little because I am leaving for Portland in two days, but after I get back I have 5 days off. I said earlier that I could just take off the valve cover and replace the valves, I don't know what I was smoking when I said that, but that would be impossible. I saw a head + turbo for $200. If that head checks out with my machinist I could just throw it on. However, if not I could just swap the valves. If I did that it's pretty unlikely that I'd have to resurface my current head, although the condition of the used valves is an unknown. My other option would be to go with Osvat valves for the same price. With the higher output I plan on running this engine at they probably wouldn't be the best idea. When I'm in there should I do anything else? I'm planning on sanding the marks off the pistons, but other than that? I will definitely be giving them a call. I wish I had known my roommate had a boroscope so I could have checked the cylinders before I put the engine in. Does that come with valves, springs etc?

All the valves are bent. FML. I borrowed a boroscope and checked the #2 piston, just because it was the lowest. It had four definite spots of valve markings. Looks like I have two options, pull the valve cover and replace all the valves. Or, pull the head and slap a new one on. Looking at Tasca it would cost ~900 to replace all the valves. Is there a cheaper place for valves? Looking at car-part.com I can get a head for ~200, but then I would need a new head gasket($55) and head bolts ($60) and would need to rent a cam locking tool again ($50). Replacing the head would be way more of a PITA , but then again removing every valve would suck too. Any opinions? EDIT Looking on Ebay I can get a complete Osvat valve set for $190. Should I do it?

Should I just go OEM for valves? Could I convert to the 6mm stems or would I have to change more components?

Alright, I checked the timing, accurately this time. The intake was slightly retarded, by like 5°, I fixed that but still zero compression. I'm assuming the worst, and will be taking the head off tomorrow. Before, I will talk to my indy Volvo guy in my area and see if he would mind taking a look at it.

Dual VVT I torqued them to the correct torque. When I got the 45° it was just a quick turn with very little resistance, not like I was tightening that much more. I'll go do a more accurate check of the timing. As for reversing the intake and exhaust, possible but not plausible. I'll check again. Intake above, exhaust under, right? How far would timing have to be off to cause zero compression? Could it just be off by a few teeth?