Tightmopedman9

0 PSI in all cylinders. When I had a friend crank it I noticed that the VVT gears were moving in and out about 2 mm. I took the covers off and tightened the VVT cam bolts by 45°. I'm guessing that the hubs weren't properly loaded? I took off all the ignition components and eyeballed the timing, everything seemed in check. Since I only eyeballed it, the timing could be off by a tooth or two. Would that be enough to give me 0 compression? Could it still be a timing issue or should I start pulling the head?

Waiting for a ride to the autoparts store. I set the cam timing with the Volvo tool so I doubt it would be off. I tried to take a peek inside the cylinders and I'm not sure, but I think I may see some marks on the piston. If it had been valve collision I would expect the piston to look somewhat shiny in the areas where they collided, but the cylinders are still all black.

going to rent one right now...

Cranked for a while without the coil to circulate some oil,plugged the coil back in and she won't start. The engine sounds weird while cranking. The first time I cranked it I thought that the engine wasn't even turning, the engine turning had no 'umph' to it; I thought maybe the bendex wasn't engaging the flywheel. Upon confirmation the cams were turning. The cams are still making that god damn clicking noise too Since I'm by myself I had to make a video to check the spark. I'm uploading it now and will post the link when done. You can hear how the engine sounds in it. What else should I check? I know it is getting fuel to the rail. Should I pull the injectors and see if they're shooting out fuel (it seems too messy). Video uploaded: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LGz24rSOQQ&feature=youtu.be

Ha, won't be needing that

Done with new intercooler piping, now I need to work on the intake. Its going to be a long night... Wondering what this connector is:

When I click on the Page X of X to go to a certain page it always returns me to the first page. This feature was working before the most recent downtime.

The engine is in the car! Hopefully I can get everything bolted up and turn the key tonight. I don't think I'll get it started tonight but I'd sure like to!

I got the tranny mated up and the CHRA re-clocked, but I think I may have gone too much in the wrong direction. I did what I thought would be best for my situation, but I think in the car it may be too far off vertical. This is the last thing I need before I can get the engine back in the car so any help would be appreciated. Trans mount modification: @boxpin I was so used to the 20G, when I took the engine out and had another look at the 15g I had a chuckle. The thing is tiny!

I've had to mate the tranny with the engine 6 times on this car and I always had a broom that was the exact right size, not at my new house though. I was thinking about doing it the way you said, but of course I assumed it'd be fine as is. Shitty thing is I used red loctite on the PP bolts so it should be a fun time getting it loose again...

Pictures take too much time and since I'm working alone and this is my DD I don't have much to spare. I did just snap a few for your sake Splining the transmission is such a PITA! I'm taking the first long break today because I have to loosen the PP to move the clutch. my workbench We got some snow today, I won't be able to try out the new power for a while

Alright, just gotta bolt the tranny up and re-clock the CHRA and she'll be all good to go in. I took a look at the wideband and it's fucked. Good use of $60

Taking a quick break right now. Just need to get the new serpentine belt on and then separate the tranny and put it on the new engine. I'm guessing it will be in the car by 6 tonight.

I unplugged it but I guess the connector just got pulled with the engine. I'm going to take a look at it and see if I can solder it back together, but I doubt it.

It's out! Started at 6pm got it out at 1am. Not bad for my first time and working by myself... The only casualties were my trans-mount and my brand new wideband 02.

I wish my engine had come with the turbo oil drain back tube. Does anyone know if the stock drain flange will bolt to the 20G (I know the pipe will be in the wrong location but just wondering if the flange will bolt to the CHRA)

I like mobile because it snaps to the last post read in a topic

I just measured the distance from the drain to the block feed back and without the hose barb it is just shy of 2". The current barb I had on there sticks out from the flange 1.2". I need to find a shorter oil outlet barb. With other turbo setups it seems like the vertical distance from the drain of the turbo to the drain on the block is ~5". Maybe it's just an optical illusion...

Doesn't the drain need to be as close to vertical as possible?

So I got the manifold back today and got the turbo mocked up. Bummer is that the current drain setup is too low. I made an intake from an older Jaguar air canister and an Apexi filter Also made a vent to atmosphere catch can.

Nice! Any pictures of it? Water cooled? Internal wastegate? For the V-Band adapter

From Matthew's Volvo site:

That's a good point, without oil pressure it could be the problem. I could always throw it in the car and see what happens. But since this is my D/D I'd prefer to not have any unknowns.

I got the cams locked at the rear with a legitimate tool (the angle iron I used bent when trying to torque the VVT bolts). I reset the VVT units according to Vadis but the damn things are still clicking! What could be the cause of this?

I got it shaved. The machinist took way longer than expected, I mocked it up for just a second, but it needs to go back to him so I can get the manifold tapped for an EGT probe. That's the 'super' 20g, which uses a TD05H turbine wheel and a 10cm housing, the most common 20g for T3 flange applications. I got a deal on a rebuilt ebay 20g that uses a TD06 turbine wheel in a 8cm housing with a T3 flange. The best place would either be Hahn's website or keep an eye ebay.