Tightmopedman9

Ha, yeah I traced the wiring for the oil pressure light, again, and came to the same conclusion as last time. It just runs straight to the cluster, and when grounded turns on the oil light. I originally cut and saved the wiring so I could tie it back into the ECU and have a secondary warning light. I've found that the coils for cylinder #1 and #3 are not firing. I've tried swapping coils, plugs and checking the wiring. The coils are getting good power, and the signal lines have continuity to the correct pins on the ECU. Just in case there was a software issue, I changed a logged RAM parameter to RAM_21 and found that the firing cylinder bit is cycling correctly. I guess the only thing to check now is the actual ECU SMD components related to the COP, but I'm not sure how they could just fail randomly.

​Same pair as what this engine has ran on before. A mis-match leads to a cam/crank phase angle error which wouldn't allow the engine to start, and would show up under an error-bit diagnostic test. ​The fuel gauge sits directly on the regulator and therefore measures the feed pressure, and rail pressure. Measuring at the rail would give me the same pressure, just 12" away. I can't imagine that they could differ that much. Vacuum port is dry from the regulator. Right now I'm running only on the downpipe, and I can assure you (as well as my neighbors) that there is no exhaust restriction. I'm not the biggest fan of paper towels, so nothing like that. ​Grounds are the same as stock, I actually went and added a new head ground from the main engine ground location in the bay for justin and had the same problem. ​I'm not sure how else it would be done? This is the way I have it set up and monitoring fuel pressure it remains constant until a few seconds after the engine dies, at which point it starts to leak down. I removed the idiot oil light and replaced it with a oil pressure sender. I'm wondering if there is some sort of no oil pressure shutoff, I've never heard about such a thing on a P80, but it's something I'm investigating right now.

I think it may be a voltage problem, maybe the wiring for the COP is being cut or something. I'll investigate this in the morning.

Why not do the bevel gear yourself? It's really quite easy to remove, and changing that seal isn't too much of a bear.

Please excuse the poor camera quality photos, but consider this more of a teaser. I wanted to wait until I had at least started on road tuning before posting anything, but I am in need of some assistance. I redid the majority of the 'A' engine and trans harness; I integrated COP, EV14 connectors, did away with the PNP wiring and converted to the manual starter wiring etc. I put the battery in the back as well. Now, the car starts, but dies after idling for only a few seconds. Doesn't matter if I rev it up or just let it hang, it always seems to die within a few seconds, and this happens consistently, seemingly unrelated to anything I change. Things I've checked: Fuel pressure (pressure stays at 43psi while running and drops slowly after dieing) Fuel relay Voltage at coils and injectors while running (voltage stays constant while running and after dieing) Tune (I'm using 1000cc injectors and a 3.75" ID MAF) Sensors (from what I can see every sensor appears to be functioning properly) I've been troubleshooting for the past 6 hours and everything I check seems to be fine.

​I thought about the 765, but decided that the 707 would be good enough for ~500WHP. Also, I wasn't sure that the 765 would fit, since no one stateside has ever tried it. Good to know it will.

I'm not exactly sure what you're saying, but when using two springs stacked on top of each other the effective spring rate is K1*K2/(K1+K2). Since the total deflection is shared between the two springs the spring rate is effectively decreased. When using springs with different rates, when the softer spring binds the spring rate will equal the rate of the stiffer spring. ​ I've had two of them for a while. I think they still have NOS of the 10.1VQ, I see them pop up new every once in a while.​ ​Hmm... Still looks like it's working to me.

I'm surprised. I thought you'd be o-ringing. Is that solid or layered?

Parts have been arriving for a while in preperation for the swap. I don't have a picture of everything ATM, but I'll get one up in a few days. In the meantime, I did a bit of work that I thought I'd share. I installed a stereo. Started with a DEH-80PRS, which is a dead head (no internal amp) audiophile quality head unit. I sound deadnened the entire car using a roofing material. Not that nasty tar based crap, but rather, Polyken 626-35 which is 34mil thick, foil faced, butyl rubber roofing compound. 75mil FatMat is about $2.09 per sqaure foot. The Polyken is $1.34 a square foot at the same thickness (doubled up). I put Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 components in the front door, Peerless 830946 6.5" mid-range drivers in the rear doors and a single 10" Infinity Kappa Perfect subwoofer. It takes quite a bit of cutting to get such a deep speaker in. I pulled apart the white wagon a while ago. I gave the two cars a bit of time to get to know each other... I put some wilwood brakes in the front. 12.39" 2 piece rotor, 6 piston dynalite calipers blah blah blah. Also, put 8610 Koni inserts in the TA Technix. What a difference! Jeez, I can't say it enough, but those Technix are crap! All in all, the re-valve was fairly easy. Just remove the gland nut (heat helps to melt the thread locker they used), and then lathe down the thickness of the gland nut. The Koni insert is just a touch taller than the Technix so you need a bit more room in the shock body. Custom gland nut tool, lol. And a crap paint job to finish it up! I picked up a M66 with a stripped output shaft for a song. Got her ready for the new power with a Quaife. And a picture of the car in question.

I'm assuming the stock gasket was not MLS?

Exhaust manifold back pressure. Tiny hotsides are not condusive to making big power.

Is that a clutchnet clutch? If so, be careful; I pulled my 6 puck earlier this week and not only was the spline loose on the input shaft, the hub assembly was loose in the clutch.

Glad you had a good time and enjoyed this awesome state! Looking forward to seeing some logs with boost on them!

Wow... I feel like a fool. I even commented after you posted that.

This is why I haven't bought the springs yet. I'm not sure if .96" is too much 'soft' ride height. I could go with shorter 350# springs for about .5" of 'soft' travel, which might be a little more predictable. Really, I have no idea. I would really like to test it out though, and will do so within the next month or so. Maybe I'll be wasting money, or maybe I'll like it a lot. Ok, when my fuel pump dies in 200,000 miles I'll spend the 45 minutes it takes to take the fuel pump out and put another unit in there. I would never consider cutting a hole in my car, especially right underneath the latch for the rear seats.

Basically, just cut off 1/2" from the threads and then use the stock shock nut as a spacer, underneath the QA1 supplied nut. The un-threaded portion is too long and doesn't allow the nut to fully tighten onto the stock nivomat mounts. Super easy install. Yes.

Now would be a great time to upgrade compressor wheels. You could say good bye to compressor surge and hello to a lot more power!

I haven't traced it out, but I don't think that the tach signal is coming from the 8051 as there is no RAM variable for RPM that has a different scaling then the main RPM. I think it is coming from the SCL or other FPGA. This is what I investigated earlier and I didn't think it would really be possible without completely re-writing the interrupt, which might affect timing. For instance I've played around with a few different interrupts to give a higher speed to boost/load control calculations, but even minor code additions made the car almost nonfunctional. What I was proposing wouldn't allow you to tune maps over 7650, but it would allow you to datalog and have a RPM limiter higher than 7650.

I just get my information from the manufacturer's catalogs, which are all available for download from their website. I'm planning on placing Koni 8610-1437 race inserts into the Technix, but I haven't measured the Technix yet to make sure that they'll fit. Max L = 21.26" Min L = 15.24" A =13.07" D=1.71" For the dual spring setup I'm looking at a 7" 500# spring (PAC-7x2.5x500) stacked on a 6" 350# spring (ES0600.250.0350). This will give me .96" of travel at an effective rate of 206#. Then once the 350# coil binds I'll be at 500#. I'll be able to load the 500# coil with a total of 2189lbs before block, which means I'll be able to pull a .99G turn before block (which I doubt would ever happen). The only problem is that this will raise my current ride height by .29", and I'm already a touch too high with my 17s. Although, it may be just perfect when I put the 18s on. Also, I'm not sure if I should go for more or less then .96" at such a low rate, but I think right around 1" of soft travel is the sweet spot for comfort and predictable handling. If you are using a FPR similar to mine within a 'close' distance to the rail you don't need a damper. The Aeromotive has one built in.

If you implemented wideband O2 AFR control (like Piet figured out) you could eliminate your front O2 sensor and re-use the signal pin as an extra ADC (datalogging channel). You could then run the tach signal to the newly available channel and change the formula for front O2 voltage in TP. You could also have some custom logic that implemented the rev-limit for RPMs over 7650. I think that the tach output is 12v, so it might not work. I'll do some more research.

At least that's what I did. Just make a new plate out of sheet metal without the pass throughs and it won't look too bad.

That rail appears to be an early M4.3 rail, from pre '95. Are you sure that the M4.4, rail at firewall setup has the same internal construction?

They're on Summit Racing for only $159.97 a piece . You'll need the 5" T-bar kit as well. I haven't had any bounce, even at 1/3rd stiff. What exactly do you want pictures of? I can take some more when I get the car back on my lift.

I'm still on my winter tires and am waiting on an alignment until my new inner and outer tie rods arrive. So far I like the ride in the rear a lot, although it is hard to tell since the Tecnix are so underdamped that is really throwing everything off. Why do you think I would be running the rear at 100% stiffness? I'm a little over half stiff right now. The Koni yellows are designed with a valving in mind for stock geometry springs, or more like the average stiffness of front coils for these cars. I do not think that their valving would be appropriate for a higher spring rate coilover setup. Are you talking about DIY Koni coilovers?