Tightmopedman9

It's yellow, which is kinda orange...

That's awesome! I always wondered what the empty tube behind the ECU was for.

NVM.

What's the lead time? Also, how much did it cost? If you don't want to post it, could you PM me?

The crank has a hollow cavity along its center that is fed by the oil pump. There are holes in the journals that allow the oil to escape and lubricate the gap between the crank journals and bearings. When you spin a bearing the surface is worn down and this gap increases. This gap increase allows oil to flow out around the bearing and into the pan more easily, thus decreasing oil pressure.

Not true at all. Who even knows if he spun a rod bearing? It may have been a main, or not even a bearing at all.

That article talks about using a unsprung clutch with a single mass flywheel. I thought you had switched back to the stock 850R disc?

192MPH. Impressive, and scary. Very nice.

Restrictions cause an increase in velocity and a decrease in pressure. Assume in-compressible, inviscid flow aft of the compressor wheel and simplfy the Bernoulli equation if you want to prove it yourself. The D088 presents less of an restriction, which leads to slower air flow and therefore higher pressure.

The front and back of the bearings looked the same. I haven't looked at the other bearings yet, I'll be pulling the engine in two weeks probably, I have two other cars that need the garage space before I can start working on mine again.

My 2005 block did not have tangs, my 2002 block did not have tangs and the Glyco sputters did not have tangs. There is no way that I would use heat discolored rods. Although, a machine could test the hardness of the rod, for only $70 I'll just get a new one.

I guess it is hard to see from the pictures but the bearing surfaces near the edges are thinner than in the middle; indicative of a spun bearing. When I took the cap off the bearings just fell out, so I couldn't see their orientation.

The bearing that spun was neither on the rod that originally bent nor was it the replacement bearing for the gouged set. With the CX rods, it is possible to put the rod caps on backwards (180 degrees out), but is fairly obvious when you do so by feeling the connection of the cap and rod. If it is misinstalled there is a noticeable lip between the cap and rod. I did not tape up the rod journals before honing, but I did use foam cylinder cutouts and paper towels stuffed into the bottom of the bore. From my first oil change i didn't find any ferrous particles so I doubt that was the problem. The stock bearings were in excellent shape, there wasn't a single contaminant trail longer than 90 degrees, and they all felt smooth.

It could be a problem that the journals were not milled/honed to perfect circles. It is be hard to tell though, since the bearing failure was so catastrophic I can't get a read from them. I'll measure the big end rod journal when it is out, but it got so marred if it was out of round it would be hard to know if it was originally like that.

It could have been from a blocked oil passage, but I didn't notice any debris in the oil before it happened. I'll have a better idea when I take the engine apart fully. BTW, are there anymore crank options for the 5 cylinder whiteblock other than the 77mm, 90mm and 93.2mm?

Nifty looking ECU you got there

Yes, sputter. I was meticulous while installing, cleaned journals, centered the crush and torqued it all properly. However, I did not clearance the bearings, which obviously was not a good idea. If I had, I might have realized that my tolerances were too tight (if that was indeed the case). I'm purchasing another 2002 2.3L bottom end. I'll check the bores and if they're alright I'll hone, re-ring and re-use the stock pistons. If not, I'll overbore and go with wisecos. I hope I can get a single rod since the spun bearing heat tempered and scored the journal on the rod. This time around I won't be so naive and will actually measure my tolerances.

My guess would be too tight of tolerances or possibly the bearing crush wasn't centered when I installed the bearing. However, I was very careful while installing the bearing so I highly doubt it was due to improper installation. I can't do anything with the engine until I take it out and have the crank re-ground. I'm guessing though that the block is toast since I found the oil on the plug in the second cylinder.

Guess its time to find another car...

Bad news... Head needs to come off, cylinder 2 is filled with oil. I'm guessing it's a ring land.

It is a 7 blade. On the last cast wheel I made 12psi at 3660 RPM and 17 psi at 3840. On the new wheel I can make 20psi at 3660 RPM and 26psi at 3840 RPM. The difference in spoolup is drastic.

The advantages of using a billet wheel come from the different blade not the decreased weight. Apparently this same compressor wheel did 601WHP on a 10:1 Evo. Check out 'Billet 20g compressor wheels: Reality vs. fantasy'. I got mine on E-bay from Turbochargersystems. Although it doesn't look like he has anymore left.

RB20 TD06H 10cm hotside with a 20G 'XTR' compressor wheel, I believe designed by KTS (Kawasaki Turbo Systems)

Hit 50 miles today and changed out the break in oil. Oil was very clean, no ferrous material. The only bummer about Royal Purple is how dark it is... I chose the HPS since it is API-SN (E85 compatible) and has over 1200ppm of zinc. Pretty drastic difference between the wheels. The new wheel has a taller exducer which acts as slight increase in exducer diameter. If you look at the bottom of both wheels you can see the inducer tips are extended on the new wheel. Also, the hub bore is smaller. Suffice to say, the new turbo is great! I have a conservative starting tune at 20psi now and have not encountered any surge. Seat of the pants feel tells me its as fast as it ever was before, although running 6 psi less pressure.

Not to mention, the old ones are a PITA to remove. They're almost a press fit. I picked up 2 of the new style ones today, and what do you know? It was a bad cam sensor. For now I'm gonna say its a crazy coincidence between popping an intercooler hose and destroying a cam sensor. But if it happens again, time to start investigating.