Tightmopedman9

The hoses popped because of boost, the first one was at 10psi and the second was at 16psi. I think it's just coincidence that the cam sensor failed when the hose popped. I've been through probably 8 sensors on this car. They have all been used except for one which I returned shortly afterwards purchasing because it was $120. I think they're robust, until removed from the car. I once got one from an 850 with 180,000 miles, only to fail after 3 start attempts. It is only a 3 wire hall sensor, so it shouldn't be that susceptible to failure, but I've never looked into fixing one since I can get them for $3 at the junkyard. The newer style, all metal housing sensor is much more robust, at least in my experience. I plan on grabbing a handful tomorrow.

It was the cam sensor. I had 4 extras, 3 of which were bad (why did I even keep them? ) Took it out for another test drive, popped a different intercooler hose and now no spark again. I didn't have my computer with me so I couldn't run diagnostics, but I'm going to guess it is another cam sensor. WTF?

Is that the Ford Focus oil cooler?

What sleeves? Could we get some specs on your cam setup? Duration, lift, dual valve springs?

So I ran an XRAM dump and found the following two error codes: O: xerflg6.1 error continuous positive O: xerflg6.3 error reference mark sensor The only problem is I don't know what a reference mark sensor is. I checked resistance between #A6 and #A20 (crank sensor) and found 330ohms, which is correct. So I'm guessing it's my cam sensor.

Yeah! It's still knocking. Although this time it's barely audible; you have to strain to hear it with your ear basically on the block. I figure I'll sand it again when I change the break in oil. In other news I blew an intercooler hose about a mile from my house and now the car won't start. I love my car so much!

Looking from directly under the crank I could see that there was still about .75mm of raised metal that I hadn't fully sanded. I made it completely smooth this time, hopefully that takes care of the knock. Right after getting out from under the car, after putting on the pan, I looked down and saw an oil pickup o-ring . Time to call it a night.

Ha, that actually isn't a bad idea. So I got the pan off. Not trying to brag or anything, but only took 18 minutes . Here's the damage: I really wish I had taken a picture of the damage before; I'm not sure if the damage near the top of the picture is new or not. I doubt it is, but... I'll get someone to crank it and see if I can detect anything. Then I'll sand it and try again.

FML. It is still knocking, albeit a lot quieter than before. Either my crank is bent (doubtful) or I didn't adequately sand the area on the crank weight that was contacting the old rod. Either way, the pan is coming back off, hopefully then I'll be able to see the culprit. There are ferrous shavings in the oil, I believe they are from one of the new rods. BTW, ever wonder what would happen if you didn't torque the cam cover bolts?

I wish I had unpacked them as soon I got them. You should check yours.

Unfortunately the top bearing is damaged too. It's alright though, a replacement has already been shipped and it will be here Thursday by 10AM. I have a few other things to work on in the meantime, namely installing my water injection system. I'll post some pictures tomorrow...

They were the Glyco sputters. I had assumed that since they were so much more expensive than their regular counterparts they would have taken better car packaging them...

Yay! More delays! They were touching each other in the shipping box and the rod cap bearing is scratched to shit. Hopefully rockauto processes the return quickly... On the plus side, all the other bearings were fine and 4 pistons are currently in the car. I was really hoping I could get the pan and head back on tonight.

That's just a defect in the photo, the small end of the rod was the only part making contact, and it just slightly marred the crank. Turbo will be shipped tomorrow, which means it will be here Tuesday.

No problem with the wrist pins, I used some assembly lube, wiggled them to get them started and they slid right in. They needed a little bit of coaxing to get into the rods, but I just used a pine faced vice. They feel just as loose as the stock rods did. Block is honed. Used a 280 grit flex hone. Tomorrow I'll get the rotating assembly together and get the head and oilpan off. I'm waiting for my turbo to be rebuilt, should be here on Monday.

I wrote those numbers on them after weighing them my self. Mine are numbered in the same manner.

I wish I had sprung for the ARP bolts, but I just went with the CX racing bolts. Sorry in advance for the shite pictures. Pistons/rods out and ready for disassembly: All done! Pistons soaking in some gas overnight:

CX rods came in: 556.6, 556.4, 556.4, 556.9, 556.4 They really do balance to .5grams - I was shocked. I haven't checked if the big/small ends are balanced though.

Not nearly as bent as my last rod. The crank looks fine (at least for this rod) and all the cylinder bores look great. The rings measure 1.2mm, 1.5mm and 3mm. So the current set I have will not work, I'll be getting a new set tomorrow from my Volvo shop. The rod was hitting part of the crank counterweight in only one spot. It caused a little metal to be shaved off, but it was such a minimal amount I haven't been able to detect any metal in the oil. Hopefully I'll get the ball hone in tomorrow (thanks Matt) and cleaning the pistons and honing the cylinders. Should have the rings in by Thursday (free overnight shipping rocks!) and the rest of the parts by Friday. Hopefully she'll be ready to go by the weekend.

I can't find any specs on the piston rings I have. Even the local Volvo shop that bought them for me can't find them in their computer. I cross referenced my current engine and the engine that Tasca says these rings fit and pulled some information from VIDA. I added a little bit extra for any curious souls in the future. I guess the variable is the second compression ring, we'll see what my axial clearances are when I get my block apart and try the new rings.

Considering I already have rings in hand, it makes sense that I should just re-hone the thing. I'm sending my entire CHRA into the shop that carries the XTR wheels. I called them earlier today and they guaranteed that the nut would fit. If it doesn't I'm assuming they'll send the CHRA back on their dime. Effectively nothing to lose, I hope. Can anyone do a cross reference on the following part number: 31330725? These are the rings I have on hand, but I can't find them in VIDA. I assume that they superseded the B5234T rings after my edition of VIDA came out (2010).

Wow, thanks for the offer. However, I'm really trying to avoid any more work than the minimal amount required, maybe not the best idea, but we'll see how it turns out. I plan on just swapping in the rods, checking the bearing clearances and calling it a day. However, no matter what I'm doing, I'm going to replace the rods and the rod bearings. So regardless if this block is toast or not all the parts I'm buying I'll still need. I plan to do all of this with the engine still in the car, so I don't think I'll have enough space to check the crank for out of round. Since the turbo is coming out I figure it would be a good time to update the compressor wheel. According to a patent application I read from Garrett they say that extended tip compressor wheels significantly expand the width of a compressor map, greatly diminishing surge. This was a big problem I've had from day one with the 20G. If I keep the wastegate shut until my boost target I'll be in surge from 3500-4000RPM. Not a big deal if I'm in 1st-3rd, but it makes it impossible to floor it unless I'm in 4th at a high speed. Another benefit is that extended tip wheels flow around 50HP more than their shorter counterparts. I haven't seen any empirical evidence to support these claims, but they seem reasonable enough to believe. With countless logs of my spoolup time and surge areas I'll be able to make a definite conclusion of the effect of 'XTR' wheels.

I'm really crossing my fingers that the crank and block are salvageable. I plan on buying all the parts I need to fix it (HG, rods, bearings, bolts etc.) and then taking off the pan and inspecting the crank. If the crank looks fine I'll take off the head. If either doesn't check out I'll get the block from the local Volvo shop, hone it, re-ring it and install the rods and bearings and swap it in. Since this is my DD I can't afford to take it apart before I have the parts in my hands ready to go.

I guess I overlooked the engine code the first time I put the engine in, but it is definitely not a 2002. The weird thing is, it did have crank windows which I thought only came in later blocks. Looks like I have the 139.5mm rods.

I checked out the only 2.3 long block my local Volvo shop had. It was a 99 with 150k. In every cylinder it had noticeable smooth spots on both sides of the cylinder wall. I decided not to buy it, even though they only wanted $150 (last long block was $100). I've decided that I'm going to go with forged rods and glyco sputtered bearings. To any Volvo parts gurus out there, can you determine the rod length from the engine serial?