Tightmopedman9

Stock rods, yes. The lack of boost was definitely due to the sticky wastegate. As soon as the wastegate would open it would be unable to close and would revert to fully open wastegate pressure.The synchronic valve holds boost perfectly. On an interesting note, I drove the car 350 miles today and cruising with the radio up you'd be hard pressed to notice a difference.

45 minutes before the scheduled dyno time and I bent a rod. I had been trying to figure out why after hitting target boost I couldn't maintain anything above wastegate boost. My goal was to hold 23psi to redline, but after reaching the target boost I wouldn't be able to maintain boost above 18-19psi. I swapped wastegate springs, adjusted pre-load and even coded a new boost control, all with the same results. A friend, Tighe, had a SNABB TCV lying around so I figured I'd see if perhaps my TCV was responsible. I hooked it up according to IPD's instructions, not knowing that IPD and SNABB/ARD's valves are the opposite of each other. I could have easily determined the correct configuration just by blowing, but I was trying to get it ready for the dyno. I got two fellow Volvo'ers in the car and mashed on the throttle as soon as the oil got up to temp. I wasn't logging at the time, but at around 4500 RPM I felt the strongest bout of knock I've ever witnessed; I immediately knew I bent a rod. Based on the peak function of my electronic boost gauge I hit 31 psi. It is a bit slow to respond (~10Hz) so I wouldn't be surprised if I actually went over 31psi. After I let the engine cool I played with the wastegate and found the the flapper would actually stick open unless jiggled. I found this thread in which the same issue was fixed with a simple circlip. I have a lead on another 2.3L which I will be putting in as soon as possible. Hopefully I can have it all back together by the end of the week, but that hinges on a lot of variables. For the record, my fastest recorded 60-100MPH was 5.8 seconds, and this was with peak boost of 23psi and wastegate boost afterwards.

Awesome. Was it a direct bolt on?

I'll be dynoing it in two weeks, until that time I'll just say, it is decently quick.

Just got back from a small meet. I did 2 pulls from 30MPH with an R6 and pulled ahead just barely both times. This was at 18-20psi. I'm shooting for a solid 25psi, but I'm having a hard time meeting my boost target unless I overshoot first. I'm thinking that my 10lb spring might not have enough tension to pull the wastegate back closed at high boost. I'm going to try my 15lb spring again and see if it helps.

Where can I find out more about this?

Had a mini tune-n-meet with my buddy today. He has a C70 with wiseco pistons, china rods, darton sleeves, tubular exhaust manifold and a GT3076R. It's been a pain to tune because of his full 4" intake setup with a MAF midtube. I'll post a showroom thread of his car when we get it on the dyno... Please disregard the terrible front bumper, it is getting replaced as soon as I spot a good bumper cover at the junkyard...

That lower radiator hose has leaked on the past 2 radiators and past 3 radiator tubes, which included old OEM, new OEM and current silicone tubes. I cleaned the buildup on the outlet thinking that might be it, but it still leaks. Suggestions? For the heater hoses, it must just be the camera angle. One goes up over the intake and the other under. They have sufficient room to move.

It looks so dirty in this picture, but I swear it's cleaner in real life! The RB20 downpipe ended up working pretty well, they cut about 5" off of it and it lined up pretty well. The flange was horribly warped and about 1/16" had to be taken off to make it flat again. Unfortunately, the shop did not weld on any v-band flanges, so my exhaust has no clamps up until my muffler, something I'll have them correct next week. I redid the cold side piping to allow for a larger air filter. I'm using a Spectre 9831 4" intake rated for 700CFM. Heard good things about it from the muscle guys. Only $70 for the filter and housing. I redid the intake shortly after this so it isn't pointed straight into the back of the headlight. It now lines up with the stock intake location on top of the radiator. I'm probably going to get some 4" ducting and run it to the bumper. After 220 miles of city driving I decided to start turning up the boost again. Last night I made it up to 20psi from 4100RPM to redline. The spoolup is about 400RPM slower, but I no longer encounter surge. Unfortunately, I'm already at 80% duty cycle on my injectors. I had upgraded to a 94-95 fuel rail so I could use a Dodge Daytona FPR; I must have gotten a defective unit since my equivalent injection size decreased according to my injection constant. I'll get a fuel pressure gauge and check for sure. I forgot to post these earlier, but I got my flywheel lightened by ~4.5lbs. It felt different for about 30 seconds and now I'm used to it. Paired with the heavier crank it seems to rev just as freely as before.

Marlin, look at the 765 Sachs plate. To my knowledge is has the highest clamping force of any Sachs pp, and can be had about $50 cheaper than the 707.

If I were me I'd shave the mount too! Which I did!! And now it runs!!! I'd have a video, but its 10:30 and there are kids asleep and I have no downpipe. Tomorrow I'll button it up and drive it to an exhaust shop.

I'll just wait till tomorrow to pick up the right bracket. Fingers less than an inch from a spinning flywheel doesn't sound too appealing I've wanted/needed a scope for a while, but I just can't justify buying anything less than lab grade, and I just haven't wanted to drop $500 quite yet.

WOW, thanks! My sensor is also 32mm long. However, with the bracket out of the car and accurately measured it is 20.5mm thick. Hopefully 5mm is enough to throw the reading off. I'll be getting that bracket first thing tomorrow.

When I did the manual swap I used the old style flywheel, which has round divets instead of the teeth. At that time I switched polarity at the plug. I don't have the crank sensor bracket from the old engine: I wish I had grabbed one from the yard when I was there earlier today. I'll grab one first thing in the morning tomorrow. Reading that post says that #16 is too wide, I think he is talking about the sensor, but both sensors I've used seem too small of diameter for the bracket. Crossing my fingers this is it. I replaced the battery grounds a while back with some 0 gauge wire, straight to the chassis and the block. I looked over the under manifold grounds and I have them hooked up to the locations as per the wiring diagrams, this time I even broke them out onto their own respective standoffs (I was too lazy to do this on the last swap). BTW, that picture of the crank bracket is not mine (I would never, ever consider using that crap line for coolant! ).

I went to the junkyard and got a new crank and camshaft sensor, no dice. Does anyone know what the height of the crank sensor standoff is on an 850? I doubt they would have changed through the years, but I just used the one attached to the new engine, which is 23mm tall. I'm wondering if the newer style is taller than the older style? Unfortunately I threw the old one away... I checked the voltage at a few locations, injector, starter and ECU while cranking. Went down to ~10V which is normal, therefore not a ground problem, at least not at those locations. BTW, I don't have the stabilizer bracket for the starter or the manifold, which I doubt is a problem since the car has never had them...

The CEL illuminates when the key is in POS II, and it will also indicate the current map, so I know the TPS is working and the ECU is booted up. All grounds are fine and I went over all the positive wires. Doubled checked under the dash and all looked good. Tried a 3rd ECU with completely stock software just for shits and no luck. I have some friends at a Volvo specialist shop, so I'm going to get the car towed tomorrow and get some assistance troubleshooting.

Every relevant connection had continuity to the ECU. I cranked the engine for a minute and then popped off a spark plug, it was dry; however, I am getting fuel to the rail. I can't communicate with the ECU with VOL-FCR or anything else. This makes me assume that the ECU is not booting properly, i.e. not getting power. I checked power at the ECU and all was good except for A27. This is a branching point that shares battery voltage to the injectors, among other things. However, with the ECU plugged in I get battery voltage at the injectors. I'm at a loss.

Cool, I'll cut that connector off. I traced all the wire colors and I'm sure everything is plugged into the right connectors, thanks for the suggestion though. Do you have any documentation for additional testing?

Damn, still no luck. I triple checked all connections, although there aren't really that many. I tried to run an XRAM dump from the ECU to see if I could pull any codes; it connects but then drops comms after just a frame or two. Weird, although I've had this problem in cars that were running, so nothing definitive there. My next move is to test continuity between the ECU and all relevant plugs, not something I'm looking forward to doing, but I don't know what else to try.

I'm running through the wiring diagram now, double checking everything. One thing I'm curious about is a unused connector. It comes out near the cam/crank/O2 sensor, it's grey, 2 pin, GN-Y and GN-V.

The last 20 minutes will take you 2 days. I don't know if that's a saying, but in my case it sure applies. I got my re-balanced turbo rotating assembly back from GPopShop, and in the process of changing it out I broke the compressor side dynamic sealing ring (the C clip on the thrust waster). I ended up buying a full rebuild, something I should have just done in the beginning, and got the turbo in the car yesterday. The last thing to do was add coolant, but after the first two gallons I was wondering why the coolant reservoir was still empty. I jumped in the car and found my heater hose connection had come undone and there was 2 gallons on the floor. FML. I called it a night and got an early start at it this morning. I took out the carpets and did a full power wash to get everything out. I guess it needed a full interior detail anyways... Everything is ready to go, but I'm not getting spark. I found my cam position sensor had a severed wire on the engine bay side so I fixed that. Still no spark. I've been working through my 'Bosch EZK' troubleshooting worksheet and haven't found any problems. I've tried 2 ECUs and looked everything over thoroughly, hopefully I can figure it out tonight.

How much did the plates cost?

Which studs are you referring to? The manifold to turbo studs or the turbo to DP? The exhaust manifold to turbo studs are made specifically for the application. They're copper stover nuts with grade 8.8 studs. They were what I was using with my last turbine and held up great. I had to replace them though since they're one time use only. The DP flange bolts came with the exhaust flange, and to be honest, I don't trust them much at all. I'll be replacing them with something better before the exhaust is finished up.

When I installed the plate with the standoffs it was canted. With them ground off it sits flat; is the AWD subframe or body slightly different? I was always concerened with high EGTs, I couldn't ever push the car past 110MPH at WOT since my EGTs would rise to uncomfortable limits. I took this engine catastrophe as an opportunity to upgrade turbine housings. I was hoping I could just swap the housings, but I couldn't find any 10cm turbine housings with a good wastegate design that used the TD06 wheel. Grudgingly, I decided to upgrade to the TD06H wheel, which by itself is a negligible upgrade over the TD06. However,It allowed me to use a turbine housing designed for a RB20 which has a much better wastegate setup. The old turbine style: The new turbine: With the old turbine the wasteagate gasses had to do a sharp 90º, and the flapper could only open ~30º, pretty far from ideal. With the wastegate tie-wired fully open I would be making 15psi by 4500 RPMs. I also swtiched my 15psi spring for a 10psi spring, I'm hoping all of these things combined will eradicate my boost creep issues. Oh yeah, the engines in the car! BTW, sorry about the crap pictures, I forgot my camera...

A lot of my harness was bare or the convoluted tubing was cracked. I used some high quality friction tape and new tubing and started going to town. I found some AWD subframe plates at the junkyard. They are quick a bit thicker than the stock plates, but I'm not sure how much of a difference it really makes. To use them you'll need to modify them a bit, a cutoff tool and a pry bar helped... I went to the store to pickup some paint for my valve cover and thought I'd give this stuff a try: At first I was pretty displeased, but when it started drying it started to wrinkle up pretty good. Not as uniform as a powder coat, but I'm happy.