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lookforjoe

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Everything posted by lookforjoe

  1. Thank you. Made a removeable tow eyelet like my C30 Nose off, trimmed Nose bonded in place
  2. Nice! Didn't you share a video of him racing at one time? Finally got the headlamps & markers evenly oriented and the surrounds roughed in, so now I can remove the nose section, do the detail & support work on the backside, then bond the nose & fenders to the chassis. Have to make adjusters that can be accessed from the rear, like the old Volvo 700 4-lamp setups. Inner arch supports
  3. X1/9 converted to LH2.4 - pistons replaced with Wiseco's, chambers enlarged to 36cc to drop static CR to 10.3:1 - after I broke ring lands on #2 (ran super lean, too high compression 10.8:1) Fibreglass rear lid chopping up panels for Dallara Kit - test fitment before bonding have to do the same to the rear next
  4. Might want to check with Ben McNally (BMac) - I think he used a BW Turbo on his S60
  5. Unless you bought the higher quality European fuel line (Volvo #1266500 [or whatever the current # is] sold by the meter), standard American fuel line, braided or not, tends to dry rot & crack pretty quickly. It is unlikely to last more than a couple years if you are lucky. Given it's hard to access location, I wouldn't risk generic fuel line personally...
  6. You can buy nitrile fuel line splices with barb fittings. Using standard fuel line is not good at all. How many feet of it did you run ?
  7. Only KYBs in the back. Fronts are still factory originals. Set on 3-4 significantly firmer / tauter even at that setting. Yes, the ride is very comfortable and not jarring. Height is low enough, without having any of the driveway/speed bump/roadway dips issues I had with the XR
  8. Finished up the install with a proper seal for the filter neck - cut down section of P80 door seal ;)
  9. Made the cover today folded edge tucks inside - lip seal added after Top & bottom edges are lipped to locate the cover set screw in the corner covered it with the same vinyl wrap reworked the vacuum tree to eliminate the loop around - uses 12mm OD Nitrile tubing.
  10. Finished up the main casing for now. Added a lip seal between casing and ECU bracket also. Filter is RX-4730XD, previously used on the XR some iterations back filter neck seal air intake for now Need to fabricate the top cover, and make it easy on/off. Maybe use dzus fasteners, not sure yet.
  11. Tacking the addtional pieces of the puzzle .060" GAUGE 6061 T6 SHEET ALUMINUM Once the casing is done, I'll figure out a lid for the top opening.
  12. Love your new home! I miss the old buildings from living back home in England. The US, being such a newly developed continent has very little architecture to commend it. What is replacing the 40 series?
  13. Got the custom Bell IC installed. Fabricated to my spec: 2.75" I/0, 8"x3.5", 28" core, 36.2 overall width. Found a brand new in box R Design Steering wheel on eBay for $150 :) Welded my aluminum MAF to the Snabb intake pipe, to eliminate another coupler, and to accept a K&N Xtreme filter instead of the Elevate setup ...started working today on the airbox - 7" neck, .125" aluminum tube, .063" 6061 sheet. 4" Mandrel bend for air intake
  14. If anyone can do it, it would be Aaron or Piet / Venderbroeck. They have pioneered much of the refinements that have moved M4.4 tuning on non-stock setups forward.
  15. M4.x has no provision for controlling VVT, never mind tuning for it. You can check in the Tuners Rejoice thread to see if anyone is working on that.
  16. Have you freed the bottom end? No point looking at head options if you need a motor. HG doesn't seize the piston rings, unless it was left sitting with coolant/water for extended period. Fill the bores with trans fluid & let it sit - try then to rock the crank back and forth gently - if you are very lucky it will come free & you can then inspect the full bores for wear. Plenty of threads covering the use of RN heads in N motors, so do a search & post back with specific intelligent questions if indeed there are any after reading up.
  17. Been working on the X1/9. Got the LH2.4 conversion done after quite a bit of futzing with the crank trigger. Using T6 injectors (24lb), 016 MAF & eurosport spec adjustable FPR off my V70. had to replace the clutch & brake master cylinders over the weekend. Still not properly bled yet figured out the V70 washer pump & grommet fit the X1/9 washer tank also :)
  18. Very nice!!!!! Now, where are the pics of the barn that will become your workspace?? :)
  19. Interesting. No sign of damage to the splines on the diff? Which PN collar did you use? I wonder if they have updated the tolerance to reduce wear....
  20. Nice! Did you buy the PDV collar? Stock Volvo unit should not have needed any encouragement for installation..
  21. At this point I don't know what the monkey you are going on about. The MAP is seated in a brass bung threaded into the intercooler tank. The JB weld is used to secure the webbing & standoff that the MAP is located with. It's not going anywhere.
  22. If you noticed, I threaded a bung into the intercooler. The JB weld has that additional surface area to secure the outer plate. The JB weld is not securing an end tank - that would be an entirely different issue, and not something I personally would consider. The pressure over that small surface area is nothing like the overall dynamic pressure passing through the system.
  23. Did you transfer the firewall grommet from the old cables? I couldn't get the C30 grommet to line up no way no how. Slit the sheath on one side & then siliconed the slot after proper cable alignment WTF IS GOING ON ON THIS poking SITE. IMG TAGS DON"T WORK NOW?????
  24. Is that for the rad hose mod required when using the P1 version M66 in a P80? I don't know the details on that...
  25. More Legit? Not really. Then you need a coupler between the intercooler and the pipe, and another coupler & pipe.... The silicone hose from the intercooler to the TB doesn't have enough length before the bend to do that. Modifiying an end tank is no biggie if you are careful.
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