andyb5

I've been driving without a front swaybar for the last 9 or so months. The stock front bushings combined with the car being lowered repeatedly killed endlinks. I removed one endlink until I figured out some adjustable endlinks and had an opportunity to replace the stock bushings that had deteriorated over time (thanks oil leaks!) I had originally planned on removing the factory bushings (that are vulcanized to the bar) repainting my stock bar, installing poly bushings and adjustable endlinks when I replaced my PS rack last fall. In the comedy of errors that is my life, I ordered the wrong size poly bushings and wasn't able to reinstall the bar. I've just driven the car without a sway bar since then. The body roll was annoying but not awful. The nice part was how close to neutral the chassis balance was; understeer was almost totally gone. The other night I finally got it all installed and it's ridiculous how much less body roll, and the shift back towards understeer is less pronounced than I expected. Sweeping ramps and twisty roads are significantly more fun to drive now Stock 21mm bar with Energy Suspension poly bushings. The Teflon tape is a little trick I picked up from motoiq.com to help reduce friction when installing poly suspension bushings The endlinks are (hopefully) my solution to having a nice adjustable endlink that won't be a pain to maintain like QBM style ones are. Having experienced firsthand the issues that heim joints have on daily driven cars here in the northeast, I didn't want to use heim joints; even with rubber boots they're destined to fail. By maintaining the stock style rod-ends, I'm hoping that I'll keep a good service life. I simply chopped a few inches out of the endlink, and then threaded one half with a RH thread and one with a LH thread to match the turnbuckles I bought at Lowes. Add a couple jam nuts, and they're done. The cost came out to be about half of what a "QBM style" heim joint setup would cost. Admittedly, since this was kind of a "proof of concept" run, I used a set of cheap Karlyn endlinks so I'm not sure how they'll hold up, but in the case that I totally screwed up and destroyed them, I wouldn't feel bad about wasting nice parts (The black paint is so my pea brain could quickly ID which end was LH thread)

Swing and a miss Kevin. In the US, buildings are responsible for roughly 50% of energy use (~75% total electricity) and generate roughly 50% of CO2 emissions. Globally, those numbers get higher

Cars are a small percentage of total energy consumed/pollution generated, it's kind of laughable the emphasis that is placed upon reducing emissions and improving energy efficiency in cars yet the larger factors (buildings, industry, etc) are largely ignored by the general public.

Here are mine. Neither are anything special, but I'm very ok with that

Oh, and for the record, I'm still amazed we got everything done as fast as we did. That was a metric shitload of work for 72 hours, start to finish. M66 swap and all associated work (took me ~60 hours on my wagon) Water pump, timing belt, tensioner and idler puller replaced Delrin subframe bushings Clean engine bay and finish wrapping downpipe Plus a few hours of troubleshooting my stupid mistakes Let me know what you're thinking! Honestly, disassembling the ECM/TCM stuff isn't too bad, Mark has a lot of great details in his thread that show you how to do so. Take plenty of pictures as you take stuff apart for reference when you put it back together! Yeah, PNP wire gets the spade terminal crimped on and connected to the starter solenoid. I edited my earlier post to state this more clearly.

We started it by hand, and probably could've done the install with a deadblow hammer but the press actually the fastest and easiest way. I seem to recall seeing something where starting with the 06-07 automatic P2 R collar gears, Volvo changed the tolerance and material composition to help reduce wear on the collar gear splines. My guess (just a guess, nothing to substantiate this) is that replacement collars are made to the newer, tighter tolerances. I have more details and pictures of on the wiring modifications in my build, the link is in my sig. I remove the entire wiring harness from the car, and separate out the transmission wiring and remove all unneeded wiring. This way it's a much cleaner install and will greatly simply things if any troubleshooting is needed. The PNP wire is long enough that you can remove it from the connector at the trans, crimp a spade terminal on it and run it directly to the starter solenoid, no splicing necessary. The reverse lights are a similar condition - remove from trans connector (pins 5 and 9) then attach the reverse light connector and you're good to go. The TCM is deleted on the chassis side of the harness. You remove the green (pin B1 and B2) and white (B13 and B14) wires from the TCM plug. You then connect B1 to B2 and B13 to B14 to remove the TCM from the network. This is shown on the wiring diagram in Mark (blackt5) build thread. I have a link that diagram in my build and show pictures of my wiring.

I put part of the ECM wiring harness in backwards so the ECU wasn't communicating properly - that took ~10 minutes to fix. Then the ground wire for the ETM was loose, causing the ETM to loose signal and not communicate with the rest of the network. A simple fix, but it took a little time to diagnose and troubleshoot. Especially since the ETM was a white label and original to the car, we had to eliminate any and all causes of ETM issues prior to arriving at the ground issue.

On his way to Connecticut so Steve can work his magic and get it all tuned up!

Yup, our garage on RPI's campus. We had a 426 wagon party earlier: Eric (leco510) myself, and Chris (huntec) while Anthony's wagon is on the lift.

Guess it's officially broken in now:

Swap has started. As of tonight, motor/subframe is out. Good progress for about 5 hours of work.

Yes it is.

With the engine/trans/subframe out of the car, filling the trans is easy

Can't wait to start the swap

To follow up on the trans bracket issue, Hussein sent me a new trans bracket that had a piece of tube on the end instead of a socket like my first bracket had. Old on top, new on the bottom. So far, so good. No issues and the bolt is still holding tight A little while ago, I hit a car that was parked outside my apartment's driveway. I dented up my passenger side rear door pretty good, and bought a replacement door from the 99 R Adam was parting out. I also purchased the fuel pump assembly, OEM front passenger axle, and a few miscellaneous other parts. Got the door installed yesterday. I need to remove the pinstripe, but it's nice to have that issue taken care of. Today, I pulled the factory sunroof out. It's been in poor shape since I bought this car, and I've had a replacement waiting to be installed for a while now. The seal at the edge of the glass had separated from the glass, allowing water to enter and creating a ton of wind noise. I've run a bead of silicone around the edge of the seal a few times to stop the leaking, but it was never 100% effective. You can see the silicone as a dirty ring inside the edge of the sunroof. The inside frame had become quite rusty as a result of years of water entering where it shouldn't be After successfully removing my sunroof trim (without breaking it) I tore the rest of the interior out to get the headliner and sunroof cartridge out. The sunroof is fairly heavy and awkward to maneuver, which makes this is a pretty crappy job to do by yourself (like I did). In terms of function, nothing is different than it was before, but the reduction in wind noise and knowing it won't leak has already made regular driving much more enjoyable. With most of the interior out, I was able to eliminate a few squeaks/rattles, and adjusted the tailgate latch the hold the door tightly and stop it from rattling over bumps. Small things, but they make a huge difference just in driving around town.

Faultywarrior strikes again...!

Ow. My head.

This is gonna be fun after the St. Patty's day parade on Saturday

The cutout sounds amazing in person!

Oh, well never me mind them I have no idea what those fittings are called, sorry.

Trash? You're having a nice, somewhat expensive, custom part made and deliberately choosing to reuse a part that frequently leaks and is a constant source of problems?? Why not use -AN fittings instead?

Here's the plug on my reverse light switch. Lucas is saying he simply hooked a butt connector to each of those pins. I did that for a little while but didn't like how loose the connectors fit on the pins. And the matching plug from the S40. The P1 cars use totally different connectors than the P80 cars do. I forgot to take this from the S40 when I pulled the transmission and had to go back afterwards (when the harness wasn't in the car) to try and find the correct plug. That was tricky...!

Dougy, did you modify that downpipe at all or was it a 100% bolt-on?

That R32 looks super clean! I would love to see what one is like to drive. Those old Rays/Nismo wheels it has are awesome too

Just wanted to agree with Hussein here. The PDV gear goes on tight, because it was manufactured for a tighter fit than the OEM gear to help reduce the chance of wear on the collar gear. It took some serious effort to get it onto my M66. I wish I could offer some more feedback on the actual gear itself, because my wagon has been FWD since before I M66 swapped my car