andyb5

Some 98 x70s had a single mass setup like the 850s, some had a dual mass setup. It was my understanding that the 850 R pressure plate has a higher clamping force than the regular "turbo" clutch. I haven't seen anything definitive on that though. The NAs do have a different clutch/pressure plate (smaller diameter) than the turbo cars.

PM sent. But yes, that bolt failed, it wasn't on the car when I examined it on the lift. After the first one snapped off in the trans casing, I drilled out the old one, and put in an 8mm grade 10.9 bolt (~70mm length if memory serves) that went straight through the casing and used a nut on the backside.

Test fit some OZ Ultreleggerra's that Matt had taken off his C30. They're 18x8, et+38. The tires are 225/45/18, so they're taller than the stock OD. Spokes clear the calipers by basically nothing. They do clear, but I'd run a 5mm spacer with them to be safe. It was in on the lift because I hard started to feel a strange (yet familiar) vibration when turning right. Opened the hood to confirm my transmission mount had snapped the same bolt as last time Unlike last time, I haven't done anything to provoke this one. I fucking hate this car sometimes. Guess I'm going to remake that bracket, because even though it'll take 2 minutes and $0.50 to repair, it's sure as hell really annoying to have this as a recurring issue.

They'll work fine. I got rid of mine and then realized I needed them so I used regular plumbing brass elbows from the hardware store

A couple lessons I've learned from various iterations of my own heater core hoses. Use a pair of brass elbows on the outside of the firewall to allow you to disconnect the engine-side hoses from the firewall. The 90* elbow also helps the heater hose clear the intake pipe without rubbing or kinking the hose.

Details?

If Eurosport Tuning has the hoses you need it'll probably be cheaper from EST - despite the fact that EST is in Canada, Viva's shipping prices are ridiculous and end up making it any purchase I've looked at cost more than at EST for the same product

Order the "eBay" heater core - there's a long thread about them in the -98 maintenance forum. The construction of the core is changed to eliminate some of the failure points of the OEM core and it much cheaper than a Behr core. No one has reported any issues. I've been running one for the last 25,000 or so miles and it's been great.

Agreed, they're pretty cool and you don't see many around. My next door neighbor and best friend got one from his uncle shortly after we both learned to drive. His was a black/black 63 500 XL coupe. It was a mess, it barely ran, had a ton of holes rusted through the floor pan and trunk, but in spite of all that I still remember being in awe of the presence that car had just sitting still in the driveway. Oh, and this:

Fly Mike

Timo

I'm ok with that. From an appearance standpoint, I actually like the first "new" Charger much more than its replacements. And the Magnum is ok at best, but it should've had the same front end as the Charger.

Seems to load pages much faster than before. Nice work, and thanks for the site updates!

Ideally yes, even though that's $250+ at once, you should be set for years.

Swap the coilpack from the cylinder with a misfire and a good cook pack and see if the misfire moves with it. That's the easiest way to troubleshoot a coilpack. Oh, and look for cracking along the stem of the coilpack - that indicates the cool has gotten very hot and is failing or will fail very soon.

the drunk posts are hilarious. Keep them coming Tommy

A while back I blew up an axle doing donuts and replaced it with an aftermarket axle from FCP. The inner boot on that axle ripped, and me ignoring it killed the inner CV joint. So I bought the replacement axle from Advance Auto Parts - it's a new axle, not reman'd; since I got it for $60, I figured I'd give it a shot and see how the quality is. I had to use a hydraulic press to remove the old axle from the wheel bearing. So while the bearing itself wasn't worn out, I wasn't installing a new axle in a messed up hub so I put a new FAG bearing hub in as well.

arts aren't really an issue for these cars. Tuning is what holds the P1 chassis cars back. Barely anyone tunes them, and the only tuner I know of that's willing to do more than just sell you an "off-the-shelf" tune is Shark Performance. I haven't been on C30Crew in a month or two, but the last I heard they were still trying to catch up on the US-spec K16 tune and get the updated tune to everyone they owed. So unless you go full standalone (Motec, Haltech, etc = $$$) that'll play nice with CANBUS, you're out of luck when it comes to anything beyond a K16. Think about where the ME7 cars with respect to tuning were roughly 5-7 years ago - that's about where the P1 cars are now.

By all accounts he wasn't a great person in real life but he sure made me laugh when he was on camera.

Nice work so far H, your C30 looks great!

Message sent.

Seriously, come to Troy for a few days and we'll knock it out ASAP. The M66 makes it so much more enjoyable to drive. Yeah, because we need more autos to pile in the shed.

Truth. Plenty of beer has been consumed, and all is better. Old rack came out easily New one went in with no problems. Had to use bolts/nuts instead of the OEM studs on the rack because the rebuilt rack didn't have the brass bushings to hold the studs in place. Put a whole bunch of new OEM parts in too - PS return line, outer tie rods, steering column u-joint, and 05+ PS reservoir. The 99-04 reservoir swells up and leaks over time, the revised 05+ reservoir doesn't do this. The line locations are different between the 2 reservoirs - you can use the 05+ feed line that runs between the pump and reservoir, or you can trim the factory hose to fit. I trimmed my factory hose to fit. The return line works fine. Replacing all the steering components made a noticeable difference. On-center sensitivity is improved, there is less bump-steer, and steady state cornering is more stable.