andyb5

Nah, don't worry about it. I spent more time typing this post than I did drilling the hole out I'll be sure to take plenty of pictures I got the wiring harness all sorted out last night, and re-installed back on the motor. All wiring mods are the same as what was documented here in Mark's swap thread. Jumpered the wires at the TCM and delete all the unneeded automatic transmission wiring. Add the clutch pedal switch wire to ECM B15 pin (blue wire at the end of the screwdriver) ran the wire into the dash through the passenger side accessory grommet. I used a run of wire from the TCM harness so it had the factory pin on it. EDIT: These are the connections for the clutch pedal sensor wires. The grey/white wire gets connected to ECM B15. ECM B15 is not present in the automatic harness, and needs to be added to the ECM harness as pictured above. The brown/purple wire gets connected to ECM B4. ECM B4 runs to the ambient temperature sensor (and matching brown/purple wire) on the passengers side of front of the car.

The mount wasn't fully tightened down when I took the picture - I was still adjusting the mount to align the motor/trans correctly. It sits properly now, nice and flat on the washer.

So yesterday I picked up a new RMS, part #31339213 from the local dealership. This seal doesn't have any felt on either side, and neither did the seal I installed on my motor. The seal pictured earlier was correctly installed. Outside of seal, no spring visible. Inside of seal with spring visible. Sorry about the quality of those pictures - it's tough to get an iPhone to focus on a seal inside a plastic bag but I'm not breaking out a real camera for something that insignificant. After figuring out that mess, I got the slave cylinder installed and the clutch hydraulic line figured out. I'm using an internal slave M56 hard line with the M66 bleeder and slave. The M56 line requires some bends to be modified. I'll post pictures of that later. Drivers side trans mount bored out for the M12x1.75 bolt. Got the M66 installed on the motor and put the angle gear back on. Spent some time cleaning/degreasing the engine bay, it was nasty No pictures but I broke down the ECU box, removed the main wiring harness and first thing I'm doing after work tonight will be deleting the TCU and modifying the wiring harness.

Which car won the award?

Jay & Lucas, thanks for the kind words. I'm having Stevo tune the car - he's tuned his old S60 R, his S70 T5, Tom Long's 00 R, Bmac's S60 T5, Timo's S60 R, etc. Shit. There was a felt outside to the one I removed, but I honestly don't remember if there was felt on the seal I installed. I'd rather not re-do this in the future, so I guess I'm gonna go buy another seal at the dealership ($40) after work today

Started the M66 swap over the weekend. One perk of having a lift - simply pick the car up off the motor, transmission, and subframe Removed the angle gear, auto trans, flexplate/torque converter, etc. New OEM RMS installed - a 4" PVC drain grate from Home Depot worked perfectly as a drift. I'm using a single mass flywheel, Sachs SD-693 clutch and an 850 R pressure plate. And started getting the M66 ready to go back in. Shaved the webbing to allow easier removal of the drives axle Got the original collar gear removed. It was not easy. 4+ hours of work and countless failed attempts with all manner of tools. I ended up cutting a hole through the gear with a cutoff wheel, then used an air hammer to drive it out while heating the collar with a torch and pulling with a pair of vice grips. A huge thank you to Semir (d s50r) for helping me with this. Cleaned the splines on the transmission output gear. A few months back I bought a PDV high strength collar gear. It comes with all the necessary seals and grease needed to install it. I started the gear with a rubber mallet, then used a press to drive it the rest of the way. Went to install the trans bracket Hussein made, but found a slight modification will be needed - P2 M66s this boss is not tapped, but on a P1 M66, it comes tapped to M12x1.75 and I have to enlarge the bolt hole on the bracket. I didn't have the correct drill bit with me last night, so that's the first thing I'll take care of tonight. I don't have pictures, but the brake/clutch pedal, shift cables, and clutch master cylinder are installed too. Dash has been trimmed for the shifter, I just need to grab some different bolts to secure that in place.

New ACR

Found some more photos of that S70.

When I bought the car 3+ years ago, the front intake cam seal was seeping a little bit and it smoked on a cold start because the exhaust valve stem seals were leaking oil into the exhaust ports. Plus, cylinder 2 had a pretty good exhaust leak between the head and manifold. I had no desire to deal with fixing any of these on the car, so I rebuilt a spare cylinder head I got from Ian Carr a couple years ago and installed it a few weeks ago. With the exception of having a machine shop glass-bead and hot-tank the head to clean the oil sludge out, I'm proud to say I did all the work on this job. It was somewhat intimidating beforehand but now that I've done it, it really wasn't too bad. I did all the teardown/re-assembly in my living room Old head on the way out: Cleaning the pistons and mating surfaces Installed an R-manifold I picked up from Semir a while back And slapped a Forge CBV (thanks Tommy!) on while the turbo was out Took this opportunity to make my life a bit easier and install a Xemodex ETM while the intake manifold was off the car New OEM HG with the early style coolant ports. Neither of my 99 B5234T heads had any cracks around the spark plugs Both the factory head I took off the car and the rebuilt head are hydraulic lifter heads with 7mm valve stems, as is to be expected from an early RN head Finished product looking good. Put everything back on, and the car fired right up, no leaks or issues related to the head swap so the M66 is up next! Edit: forgot to add the results from the compression test after I replaced the head: 1 - 173 2 - 165 3 - 167 4 - 170 5 - 171 Less than a 5% difference - not bad for a motor with 185,000 miles it. I am ecstatic with those numbers.

I used one 50ML tube of Permatex 51813 anaerobic sealant on my cam cover. Note that it requires the use of Permatex 24163 activator spray - all told it was around $45 for both packs. I have enough of the Activator spray to do a couple more cam covers too. Before I had the machine shop clean my head, I used a plastic scraper, acetone, and a rag to clean all the old sealant off - worked fairly well.

I'm waiting for caliper install pics, very curious to see how you did it. Enkei's get my vote instead of Pegs

I took that picture

That is fast! A C6 Z06, Ferrari F40, Ford GT40, and 997 GT3 RS 4.0 all run 60-100 in about the same time!

What clutch disc is in the picture with the spec flywheel?

For the exhaust hangars, you can put a standard worm-drive clamp around the rubber bushing to relieve the tension/pull the exhaust into alignment. To fix the V-band rotation, could you weld a small tab on the clamp and two on the exhaust so that the clamp is physically constrained by the tabs on the pipe?

That clutch setup won't work for a few reasons. 1) The 850 R clutch disc has the wrong spline pattern/count and won't fit the M66. 2) The S60 R flywheel is a dual mass flywheel and can only be used with a dual mass clutch/pressure plate. The 850 R clutch/PP is a single mass setup. So if you want to use the S60 R dual mass flywheel, you'll have to buy a clutch/pressure plate combo that is intended for the S60 R. Alternatively, if you want a single mass flywheel (sounds like you don't want/need one) you'd need to find a SMF from an 850, use a Sachs SD693 (or equivalent 23x1 spline clutch) and the 850 R pressure plate. That is the route I choose to pursue for my M66 swap.

Driveability will suffer a bit with a 6-puck clutch; the engagement will be quicker and stronger so it will be harder to slip the clutch or slowly engage it. If that AP clutch is an organic based compound, switching to a ceramic or more exotic clutch compound may enable the use of a full face disc. As for the RX7 info, all I did was re-post what was already available online and on this site. Kyle (Ol' Dirty Noodle) was the one who figured out the Sachs SD693 clutch fits our cars when he was manual swapping his S40. The 87 RX7 Turbo is one of the interchange models for that clutch disc, the 89-92 Probe is another. That clutch also fits a few other Mazda models from the late 80s and early 90s. Sachs clutch info here: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=36&partnum=SD693&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BSACHS%2BSD693&blanktemplate=true Another option that hasn't been explored is a multi-disc setup. This reduces the torque each disc needs to hold by at least 50%; so a full-face clutch is used and a high degree of driveability is retained. The major issue is that multi-disc setups typically require a custom flywheel to deal with the smaller disc diameter and change in stack thicknesses; so it would require working closely with the manufacturer to ensure tolerances are met and there is adequate clearance in our transmission casing. Plus, a twin-disc setup is typically pretty expensive. However, it becomes very easy for a full-face organic clutch to hold 800+ whp while having close to a stock pedal feel and effort.

"The Force Awakens" seems oddly appropriate For clutches, you can run any clutch that will fit an 87 RX7 Turbo. Just like the 850 R clutch, it is a 240mm OD but has a 23x1 spline to fit the M66 input shaft. I'd recommend a stock single mass flywheel so you don't have to dick around with a "DMF-equivalent" SMF like with the spec setup in the past. Choose your clutch and pair it with a Sachs 707 PP. Fortunately, the 240mm OD and 23x1 spline opens up a huge variety of aftermarket options. For example, Exedy and ACT, two of the biggest and most popular names in aftermarket clutches, have a bunch of options for clutch setups. You can choose from a simple full-face sprung hub clutch all the way up to a race ready 4 puck unsprung hub clutch. The biggest questions I'd have at this point; and haven't been able to find on Kalmar Union's or AP Racing's websites is which clutch disc came in the kit you have; and which friction material it uses. That would give you a solid base point to reference in your quest to upgrade. Without that info, you're kind of shooting in the dark if the replacement clutch will be an upgrade or not.

You're comparing a FWD sedan to to an AWD wagon There's a solid 5-700 lbs curb weight difference, and the added rolling resistance of the AWD system.

Some awesome pics of the 850 BTCC Estate: http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/05/throwing-a-volvo-brick-through-the-btccs-window/#

Unfortunately, M66 couldn't happen before Carlisle due to time constraints. So as a "consolation prize" I threw some CX Racing coilovers at it to replace my factory (182,xxx miles) struts. They're a huge improvement, and I really haven't spent much time to dial them in yet. A more-in depth list of my thoughts and impressions can be found here: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/168003-cxracing-coilover-kit-install/?do=findComment&comment=2378238 Fresh paint on the (formerly gold) STI wheels: R-bumper and Tomcat lip back on How it sat at Carlisle Front wheels are nearly flush at et34 with 235s M66 sits, waiting. The swap getting delayed allowed time for my PDV upgraded collar gear to be delivered. That is good news, because I won't have to deal with swapping collar gears in the car, instead I can install it before the trans goes in. Before the manual swap happens I'm rebuilding a spare cylinder head to deal with leaky front cam seals and worn valve stem seals so I know the car is 100% ready for Stevo to tune.

Oh yeah the AWD pump housing is a metal cup, there's no plastic on the backside. This picture is from Hussein's thread. He silver-soldered a 3/8" (-6 AN) fitting onto the stock 5/16" (-5 AN) line. You might be able to do something like that.

​Yeah. It's technically been illegal for years, but it was recently (a year or two ago) banned and you can't buy it anymore. Makes flushing your brake system a bit tougher.

I'm planning on using this Fragola fuel pickup kit to convert my pump to an AN-06 feed http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-900700/overview/ My plan is to totally ditch the stock hardline, and run the Fragola hose in-tank between the pump feed and the bulkhead fitting on the pump housing.