andyb5

Looks really good so far, love that color combo too!

I kinda like the 94 Mustang. I definitely like the GTO, I think they're a kinda sleeper-ish too.

For a run like this, I would only use oxygen-free copper (OFC) as opposed to the less expensive copper-clad aluminum (CCA) due to the improved current handling capacity and resistance to corrosion (causing voltage drop, etc) I ran mine through the factor opening on the driver's side of the firewall. This required removing the stock corrugated plastic tubing Here's a link to the wire I used: http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/kolossus-fleks-kable/sp/kolossus-fleks-kable-10-red-power-ground-wire/ And it is extremely flexible, it makes routing the wire through tight areas very easy

Or Lifetime.

I had no problem running 1/0 gauge wire to the cargo space thru the cabin. In my opinion, for a negligible price and difficulty increase, the extra headroom a 1/0 gauge wire will provide is definitely worth it. I bought my wire from KnuKonceptz and was very pleased with it - great value for the price, very flexible and well manufactured.

You can sag the tank down if you're just doing a pump, but since I am replacing both the sender and using an aftermarket pump, it'll simplify my life to drop the tank.

Yup. Whole rear subframe has to come off.

Anyone know what book time to replace an AWD fuel pump and level sender is? Curious to see how long Volvo says it should take and if I can beat their time

At least you can't confuse a cobra with a small bear

Might not be 5 hours from you, but I'm sure I can find a pretty awesome pond here in upstate NY.

Bachelor pad, level 1000 - achievement unlocked.

Mental F40 LM restoration: http://www.build-threads.com/tag/ferrari-f40-lm-restoration/

I just flip my phone to silent if I don't want to be disturbed. However, I'm a heavy sleeper so a few texts doesn't usually wake me up.

Definitely replace the internal slave before you install, if it goes bad you have to replace the clutch

You need a Hussein bracket to use the stock tranny mount. Otherwise the transmission itself is a direct bolt-in. You want axles from a 00 XC, your stock ones do not work. You should shave the webbing on the drivers side of the transmission to make it easier to remove the axle should you need to in the future. P1 shifter base has to be modified some to bolt up to our console, but its pretty much a direct fit. Use the shift cables that match the transmission you're using - so, if you have a P1 M66 get the shifter and cables as well. Clutch options are split between either dual or single mass. Stock clutch for that tranny is a dual mass, and I know a few C30 guys at 300+ whp on the stock clutch without problems. An upgrade from that would be the AP Racing (Kalmar Union) setup that Hussein has. A single mass setup would require you to use an 850R flywheel, pressure plate and the Sachs SD693 clutch:

Survey says no, Kevin apparently can't read I've driven in 20* weather on Ventus V12s and they're not supposed to see anything under 50*. Just because it can be done, doesn't mean it should be done But seriously, snow tires are one of the best purchases I've ever made for my wagon. Having traction in shitty weather has saved my ass more than a few times! Oh and today I learned that PB Blaster will eat through a solo cup in about 5 minutes :monkey:

With how much you drive, I'm not sure if any snows will last 3 years. They're all pretty soft and if the roads are dry they can wear kinda quickly. That's the price you pay for a soft rubber compound that stays compliant in sub-freezing temps. That being said, I had no issue getting 3 winters out of my old set of Generals. This will be the last season for my current ones, I bought them used (came with my STI wheels) so I'd say they had at least 1 season before I got them.

I've had a couple sets of General Altimax Arctics (Gislaved Nordfrost 3s) on both my R and my old 98 NA. I've been quite happy with them, and the price its hard to beat! Last winter I had no problem going straight up some very steep hills (~10% grade) in 14" of snow. They're pretty soft and you definitely notice a drop-off in performance on dry roads, but when it gets messy they thrive. As has been said, the DWS isn't a snow tire - its an all season. Granted, its a very good all-season, but for winter driving they're out of their element and you'd better suited with a set of snow tires. Here's some perspective - think about how long your commute is and the driving ability of a typical NJ driver now imagine that drive on snowy or slushy roads

Awesome stuff Tommy! Can't wait to see the pics from part 2 This picture ('>) looks familiar - that bridge is ~15 minutes from me! Wish I had know you guys were doing this, I would've taken a ride out and lent a hand!

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Went out for some beers with my boss and some of our partners last night. Ended up decently drunk and I'm still hungover. Kill me.