andyb5

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKm-wcxkl5U

288 GTO :wub:

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Found a few pictures from this summer saved on my external backup

Da bears

Here are a couple iPhone (sorry) shots of Chihuly's work at the Morean Art Gallery in St. Petersburg FL.

My understanding is that the DW300 in-tank pump can't supply sufficient volume at ~450awhp, so when H wants to increase the boost and run north of 500awhp, the restriction in flow will cause problems over a wider RPM range than it does now. Fuel pumps have a peak efficiency range, which he is certainly exceeding at his power levels, let alone when he turns the boost up. Think about it like fuel injectors, you don't want to exceed ~80% duty cycle.

Little Lambo lovin'

Awesome! Now I want one of those carts

And hand grenades

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixr5b1jkkL4

So jealous of your paint/body work skills!

Holy crap that truck moves out. I'm guessing that leaving in 1st or 2nd just lights the tires up?

I'm not a huge JDM guy, but there's always the exception to the rule:

Debris on your pickup screen?

Correct. It was Ron Howard, not James Cameron. My fault

Rush is one of the best movies I've seen in a long time. Fantastic job by James Cameron!

Yeah they're pretty awesome, can't beat no change in inspiring weight while moving to a larger, wider wheel! My guess is most people in the Subie scene would pay big bucks for a set of 04 STi BBS. Those are 5x100, and fit WRXs, Foresters, etc. and are much more sought after than the 05+ which are 5x114.3. I flipped a set of them this summer, had the wheels sold <4 hrs after buying em *unsprung weight, not "inspiring weight" haha

I figured this would be a good place to record how I adapted BBS wheels from an 05-07 STi to fit on my 99 R. The wheels themselves are 17"x8" et+53, 5x114.3, centerbore of 56.1mm, and weigh 18 lbs. I bought a set of 5x108 to 5x114.3 adapters secondhand. You can order new ones from a number of different sources; Motorsport Tech would be my preferred choice based upon recommendations from friends and the ability to fully custom-order them to the specs you want. The ones I bought are 19mm thick, and are hubcentric to our hubs (65.1mm) with a final wheel-centric centerbore of 69.1mm The adapters attach to our hubs with M12x1.75 socket head bolts (30mm length) and use M12x1.5 studs for the wheels, making it much easier to find lug nuts. Installed on my car. Make sure to clean any corrosion off the hub prior to installation and always properly torque the bolts that fasten the adapters to the hub. Now, if you custom-ordered adapters that are both hub and wheel-centric you can skip to installing the wheels, but for me, since I bought second-hand adapters, I was stuck with the specs the previous owner ordered. I had to enlarge the STi BBS hub bore (56.1mm) to fit over the centerbore on the adapters (69.1mm) Fortunately, the difference between the two hub bores is 13mm, or 6.5mm per side of the opening. 6.5mm is 1/4" so I ordered a 1/4" rabbeting bit to enlarge the hub bore. Aluminum is a fairly soft metal, and is not hard to machine with basic tools and a bit of patience. Fit the bit into your router, and adjust the depth to ensure the wheel will fit over the lip on the adapters. The rabbeting bit has carbide steel cutting teeth, so it will cut aluminum no problem. You can see the bearing on the bit, it will act as your depth stop to ensure you don't remove more material than is needed (very bad!) Next, spray the bit with WD40 to act as a cutting fluid. Working slowly, move clockwise around the wheels. Remove a small amount of metal at a time, patience is the key here. I don't have any Before After Thoroughly clean all the aluminum off your wheels, and put your tools away. Last but not least, mount and balance your tires: I went with 235/45/17 Hankook Ventus V12s on my wheels. So far I am very happy with them, cornering grip is vastly improved over the Toyo all-seasons that were on my stock wheels, and the ride quality has actually improved relative to the stock wheels/tires. Here's the finished product. et+34 is pretty flush on all 4 fenders, the rears will require rolling of the outer fender lip. The fronts don't rub as badly, I've only experienced a bit of rub under hard braking while turning into a sharp corner. There is no rubbing at full steering lock.