andyb5

Nice job getting it all fixed quickly. That being said, I'm a huge fan of my AEM gauges - not the flashiest/most feature laden, but dead reliable and respond quickly. If it continues to be a problem, you could switch the Innovate gauge for an AEM one, they use the same LSU 4.9 Wideband O2 sensor so it would be pretty close to plug and play.

Thanks for the kind words, and welcome to Volvospeed! There are a few people who have privately messaged me about the headlights; so unfortunately you're a little late That being said, they're a huge improvement in light output (and look better) than the stock headlights. They're an awesome, easy to do, upgrade.

I noticed a huge difference between a handful of 98 S/V70s that I've owned/driven and my 99 R; the 99 has much lighter steering. I suspect this is because of the change in PS pumps I haven't specifically driven an 850 so I'm not sure how they compare to a 98 S/V/C.

Thanks!!

Thanks Lucas!!

So, does anyone know if a 3" downpipe will make a noticeable upgrade? All joking aside, here's a little product review that will hopefully prove useful to some other members on here. My wagon is daily driven, and sees rain, dirt, mud, salt, and snow routinely. So, given that the CX Racing coilovers reside squarely on the low end of the price/quality spectrum, I wanted to ensure they'd hold up to the elements and not wear out prematurely or bind up due to rust/corrosion/dirt. After spending a ton of time researching different strategies for protecting coilovers, I decided to use Boeshield T9. The website describes Boeshield T9 as an aerosol compound developed by Boeing to treat aircraft landing gear. It claims to be waterproof, and dries without leaving any residue that could attract dirt/debris. It seemed like a legitimate product backed up by tons of positive reviews so I gave it a shot. I decided to use my coilovers to document the actual results of Boeshield as a surface protectant. So, before I installed them, I disassembled each coilover and sprayed everything with two coats of Boeshield T9, then reassembled and installed. Here's when they first got on the car: Here is how they looked after 19 months, and ~35,000 miles with no cleaning, no maintenance, just whatever the roads could throw at them. There was some minor rust where the spring coils contact itself under compression travel, but nothing alarming at this point. I was able to loosen and adjust all 3 collars on each coilover, and adjust the knuckle mount all without any real effort or cleaning required. One collar required a hammer tap on the spanner wrench, the rest I was able to adjust with the spanner wrenches alone. No heat, no hammer, no breaker bars, no penetrating spray, just nice and easy adjustment by hand. This is in stark contrast with some of my friend's experiences with their coilovers under similar conditions, some of whom have ended up having to replace the coilovers because everything was siezed up so badly. While there's no way to 100% prevent any rust/corrosion from forming with just an aerosol-applied spray, my experience thus far shows that Boeshield T9 has done a pretty effective job of keeping everything in good shape. To help keep everything in good shape over the winter, I installed a pair of Eibach spring bag/dust boots that I purchased from Kaplhenke Racing. Apparently these are popular with rally/offroad racing to help keep dirt and debris away from the coil spring/shock shaft area. So hopefully they'll keep some of the sand/salt/snow away. The bags have a heavy duty Velcro seam, but I added the zip-ties as backup. The coilovers have been back on the car for ~1 month, and no strange noises or issues have popped up, so far so good! All in all, I'm very happy with the CX Racing coilovers - they ride comfortably, the damper adjustments still make tangible changes to how the car responds, no issues with endlinks hitting the chassis, etc. They're a pretty decent option for the money! Bought and installed an OMP strut tower brace. It does need to be repainted a different color, but functionally, it's 100% and made a huge difference in reducing the squeaks/rattles from my dashboard. I should've done this sooner!! I also replaced my front O2 sensor (see previous post about dyno issues/P0134). Here's a fun fact - the factory ME7 cars use a Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband sensor. I noticed that this sensor was also used in the AEM UEGO wideband (newer kits use an LSU4.9 sensor) that many of us are familiar with. My plan is to create a plug and play harness that allows an AEM (or similar gauge) to read what the front O2 sensor is reporting to the ECU. Don't hold your breath for progress on that harness, I've been busy with holiday stuff and am enjoying skiing again after a crappy winter last year, so progress might be slow. And here's a current photo of how my car sits (yeah I already posted it, oh well) As always, thanks for reading my posts, and Happy New Year!

Excellent ad and a really nice wagon too! Good luck with the sale Adam

I'm guessing either heater core lines at the firewall or coolant hoses on the back of the block

It's painfully slow most of the time No more app, just the mobile version

Short answer is yes. One way to find those shops is to search for corner weighing and balancing; that's gonna be a specialty service primarily for track cars that should weed out a basic Firestone or Mavis alignment center. That being said, Firestone here did a good job with my front alignment and their lifetime alignment is cheap enough Or you can ask local car guys in your area where they take their cars - as dumb as it sounds, the stance kids usually know where they can get a good alignment done

I'm running drop bolts and am at -2* in the back, no camber wear issues on either set of tires I own. I can't wait to get the front to -2* or more.

What are people doing for wagon spoiler brackets now that they're discontinued? I need a pair for the spoiler I just bought.

All 4 of the auto gear selector bolts pass through a black plastic piece that secures the dash to the center tunnel of the car. You will have to cut most of that piece away or remove it entirely for the P1 shifter to fit under the center console. It makes a noticeable difference in vertical dash movement. I've seen my whole dash move a couple times (all 4 firewall mounts are broken off).

What's the going rate for a set of brand new Bosch (not eBay knockoffs) green injectors lately? Tasca has them at ~$110 each injector for what it's worth.

I'm dying. That's hilarious Edit: That guys videos are ridiculous. Australian overdose. Case in point: (lots of swearing - shocker, I know)

Yup

Yesterday, I went to a dyno day that Swedish Chariots organized at Enhanced Street Performance. The results weren't what I hoped for, but that seems to be par for the course for anyone who puts their car on a dyno Before I share the results, it's time a bit of backstory. Wednesday night I discovered a huge crack in my downpipe. I'd been having an intermittent P0134, so I attributed the code to the huge exhaust leak before the front O2 sensor. Obviously, this isn't good to see: Pulled my downpipe out of the car Thursday night, and Friday morning I took it to a local hot rod shop (1945 Speed and Custom) to have the crack welded. Huge thank you to Jeremy for being able to accomodate me on such short notice!! After I reinstalled the downpipe Friday after work, I cleared the P0134 code and got ready to head out in the morning. We left at 6 am, and the drive out to Massachusetts was uneventful, car seemed normal and ran well. Got it on the dyno, and when the operator went to make a pull in 4th, AFRs were so rich (9s) that he aborted the pull halfway through. It turns out the front O2 sensor is on its way out, and that was causing the car to run very rich. The operator did a couple pulls in 3rd to see if the car would respond. It ran ok, but obviously, the overly rich AFRs hurt overall numbers, but it kept the motor safe. The numbers aren't what I hoped for (my goal was ~240 awhp) but such is life. Peak torque was 226 ft lbs at 3000 rpm, and peak HP was 218 at 6100 rpm. The good news is that the curves generally confirm what my butt dyno has told me; good low end torque and it pulls hard to redline. Since it still has the factory downpipe, exhaust, and intercooler, there's plenty of room for improvement to move those curves up the map. A new front O2 sensor gets delivered later this week, so I'll install that ASAP. I'd like to be able to redyno soon, but I seriously doubt that will be the case.

To reiterate what I've said before, this wagon works remarkably well as a tow vehicle. I hauled a 99 NA/M56 back from VT last week - having the M66 and Brembos in my wagon make towing far easier than it should be; and even with ~212k on them, the Nivos leveled the car out perfectly. Made some progress on the rear CX Racing coilover conversion: I have planned on taking a page from Aaron's playbook and use the QA1 T-Bar kit (item code "BAR500K) to mount the lower end of the coilover to the control arm. The CX coils are intended for a FWD P80, and as such, have a bushing sized for the rear bolt on those cars. The FWD rear mount is ~5/8" and widens out to approximately 1". Since the QA1 bar is 3/4" diameter, I needed to enlarge the diameter of the CX bushing. Pressed the bushing out of the shock body, and made a fixture to hold it in place on my buddy's drillpress Made some chips, drank some beer and now the bushings have the appropriate bore diameter to accommodate the QA1 bar kit. That solves one of two issues in converting a pair of FWD rear shocks to work with an AWD car. The remaining component is the rear springs, which I'm going to look at shortly.

Looks incredible! Such a nicely built wagon Kristian

I know it wasn't installed backwards, Colorado DS labels which ends belongs where

Sorry to hear about the fuel leak having dealt with that far too many times it is not a fun experience. You can patch the damaged section of stock rubber/nylon line with the kit I linked in this thread:

Unrelated to my driveshaft shenanigans, one of the local photographers got a nice shot of my wagon on the way into Cars and Coffee this past Sunday morning:

Tonight is the first time I'm having problems. Can't upload a photo on mobile or desktop versions of the site. WTF. I'm pretty fed up with the terrible mobile app, shitload of adds all over the site, and generally shitty interface. I'll probably make a Flickr account and move everything over to there.

Try skandix.de ?