andyb5

I can only imagine you'll pay out the ass for them but it seems like Viva has gotten their hands on a bunch of Euro-spec stuff for the new S60s lately. Maybe worth inquiring?

It was a reman from Colorado DS. I can't put any blame on Colorado DS, as I bought it used with a couple thousand miles on it. When I installed it, I noticed the CVs had to be pulled into place slightly, as opposed to having to compress the CVs to install the factory 99 driveshaft. This is all "seat of the pants" so I'll get some actual measurements and report back. EDIT: 99 and 00 driveshafts are the same length. 99 reman from Colorado DS on bottom, factory 99 middle, 00 reman from Colorado DS on top How many miles did you have on your 00 driveshaft? I installed mine in early May, and I put approx 8000 miles on the driveshaft before it started to vibrate.

Awesome find Nick!!

Kind of a lame update, but it's an update nonetheless. Made it out to Swedish Car Day. We left our shop in Troy at 5AM, and made it to Brookline by 8am. This was far and away the most crowded it has ever been, it took us 30 minutes to get into Larz Anderson. I got a pretty good parking spot in between Matt (babyclaude) and Eric (leco510) up towards the entrance. Steve (skissinger, left) and Dave (ultrablue20, right) also drove out with us, but had to park down the hill with the rest of the C30s. Shortly after Swedish Car Day, I added a set of Jewels. They've seen better days, some of the reflector has flaked off. I'm only running the Jewels until I rebuild my dual project retrofit, so if anyone wants to call early dibs on a cheap set of OEM Jewels, let me know. The mesh grille is an older IPD metal one that I got from Adam (adamdrives). Thanks again Adam, I seriously love it. I spent entirely too long stripping 3 coats of paint off to get it back to bare metal. It's currently clear coated, but I'm probably going to end up painting it in some form or fashion. EDITED: driveshafts can be swapped between 99 and 00, the only difference is the carrier bearing bolt spacing. Up next: Rear coilovers, FMIC, and FWD subframe with roll center correction.

No open container law for passengers in Connecticut.

Cool build. It was at Swedish Car Day this year and won "Best Modified" too

Very nice work around the rear crease line and integrating the C30 side skirts! Those personalized bits really pull the whole project together in my eyes

Just post the direct link to the image and the site will automatically embed the image

Oh man I've never seen raspberry fluff before. Kinda want some now

I may be mistaken but I think there are some bits associated with the cruise control that tie into the clutch pedal.

Torque spec is 18 ft lbs for the manifold studs/nuts. As I said via text, torque from the center out with the turbo removed to make sure the manifold is good and tight/flat to the head

How did you torque the manifold nuts down?

Love it, can't wait to see this all finished up!!

You have to trim one end by the water pipe a bit but otherwise yes it works. I'm running one on my wagon Edit: found a picture from when I installed mine. The top right corner of the gasket needs to be trimmed.

Yeah it's an easy swap, definitely take care of it before the bracket breaks. That's not a fun experience!

Thanks man. I'm still working on ways to hit the tree backwards again! Got an alignment for the first time since buying the car but my front bumper was too low to get onto the lift. I've spent entirely too much time dealing with axles the past few months: First, I went to install the OEM passenger axle I bought from Adam to replace the junk Advance Auto one I installed last November (OEM top, Advance bottom) And found one of my lug bolts had snapped off in the hub. To add insult to injury, it snapped off in the wheel bearing I had replaced last November. I tried unsuccessfully to drill it out and use an extractor, but all I did was break the extractor in half So I took the hub off and installed my old one until I can get a shop to extract the busted lug bolt. My drivers axle split the inner boot the night before the Ithaca Euro Meet The inner boot ripped nearly all the way around, and did a very effective job of slinging the grease allllllll over my formerly nice clean transmission. As far as I can tell it was original to the car, and with ~206k on it, I guess I shouldn't have been surprised that the boot failed. The timing sure sucked though So I installed a spare axle from Matt's C30, and made the drive on out to Ithaca. Had a great time seeing everyone out there Rebuilt my axle with OEM boots from Tasca Tore it down, cleaned everything up, and reassembled it all At some point in the middle of all of this, I moved to a new apartment. The wagon towed this trailer with great ease - between the Brembo's and coilovers/nivomats, it was like the trailer wasn't even there. I also bought a remanufactured driveshaft from a 00 R that has the larger (more durable?) carrier bearing so my wagon is now AWD again. One slight modification is needed to run a 00 R driveshaft in a 99 R. The 00 carrier bearing bolt hole spacing is narrower than the 99 carrier bearing, so one hole needs to be redrilled.

Welcome to VS Alex! You've been busy with this car already, post pictures of some of the work you've done Im waiting anxiously for updates on George

Yeah the house isn't an apples to apples comparison, more of a "wow shit is cheap around here" indicator because in most other parts of the state that's easily a 7 figure house. I found another shop for sale a few miles away - approximately the same size lot and building, currently being used as an auto body shop, comes with lift, compressors, etc for ~$150,000. The gas station seems even more like a crackpipe price given the likelihood of EPA issues. Interesting, good to know; thanks Mike. The ad for this station made it seem like Getty handled all the EPA stuff when they shut the station down but somehow I doubt that's actually the case.

I feel like most "car guys" joking think about doing that at some point. I'd love to actually pull the trigger on a dedicated space for cars/projects - as much as its a huge luxury, it's kind of a pain in the ass having to share the shop I use right now. I drove past a vacant gas station the other night, and my buddy and I start joking about how it would make a pretty cool garage/man cave. It had a 3 bay garage, plus the former mini-mart. No tanks or pumps but the canopy was left intact. While power was out at our office the next day, I decided to look up the listing. It has been vacant since 2010; and had been listed multiple times throughout the last 6 years. The listing is for ~$400k. The building is approx 1600 sf and the lot is 0.7 acres. From a quick look, the building is in pretty good shape and wouldn't need an extensive rehabilitation by a new owner/tenant. The lot is currently zoned for generic B2 occupancy, and requires a zoning variance to reopen as a gas station or vehicle repair center so at this point in time they're basically selling it as property and the building would need to be demo'd. For an idea of the neighborhood and local property values, directly across the street is a very well cared, for ~3500 sf. home with nearly 2 acres of waterfront property for the same ~400k. Im an architect, I generally don't deal too much with the real estate/purchasing side of commercial development. Am I missing something or does the gas station price seem very high?

Timo, the shrouds are the same. Now, that being said, it takes 5 minutes to modify your existing shroud. All you have to do is round off the top/bottom to clear the inside of the shroud. You'll spend more time pulling the spare shroud from a JY car than it'll take to modify yours. You've done far more complicated mods to your car, you'll be fine

BMW has used an "active" exhaust as far back (maybe further back..?) as the E46. I was helping with a manual swap on a 325i and it had a vacuum-actuated solenoid in the muffler. Electronic eliminates the need for a long vacuum line, that's a definite positive.

Any properly engineered exhaust won't drone but will still offer plenty of flow and sound. There's a whole lot more than just slapping some mufflers onto some pipe and welding it together. Hell, do the math right and you can run a 3" TBE without any mufflers and it won't drone. A perfect example is the KPax exhaust for the C30s. It sounds fairly loud from outside the car, but due to the muffler design, it's quiet inside the car. The engineers designed the muffler to cancel out the frequencies that resonate inside the cabin, the cause of drone. For an OEM-level engineering department, that would be extremely simple stuff to do.

Hmm maybe I just found a use for the spare 2k carbon fiber fabric I've had kicking around for a few years so overkill but why not?

Awesome write up Adam, thanks for putting this together. I'm planning on doing this to my spare dash in the next week or two so the timing is excellent.