tuner4life

Thanks for this.. Great write up!

Finally got around to changing the hatch latch. So now dailying the VR again. Making a list of the things I need to do before winter.. Might swap the wheels and nearly new tires from the parts car C70 onto the V70R for the rest of the summer. These Meteors are not round, and the tires keep loosing pressure. After changing the valve stems and reseating several times, I've determined that it must be a microscopic crack or something in the wheels.. Anyways. At the local fairgrounds Saturday for a demolition derby. Murica.

Haha, yep. Been there. Polished the cam cover, intake manifold, thermostat housing fuel rail on the C70 over about a weeks time. That is the first and last time I will ever polish engine parts ever again.

Nice pleasant drive to work this morning in the C70..

Took this over the weekend. Finally getting some decent weather in Indiana.

I have a 960 lip sitting around that I've almost installed on the C70 several times.. I just can't seem to get inspired by it. I have yet to find a lip that looks right on a C70 bumper. Yours looks as good as I have ever seen though.

Got the C70 out of winter storage!

That's weird. My light has stayed off since changing the sensor.

That was simple enough. Tailgate didn't completely latch when we were done unloading on Saturday evening. The latch doesn't always seem to work right and sometimes it even flips closed when opening the tailgate so when it shuts again it cannot close because the latch is already closed. I have to then reset the latch again manually. Anyways the trunk light was on all of Sunday and ran the battery down. Put it on the charger for an hour while I ate and shoveled the driveway, then drove it 30 minutes to my second job. I tested the battery and alternator at O'Reillys and both checked out good. So besides needing to look for another latch next time I'm at the junk yard, all is well again for now.. She dirty though..

Another Monday morning. Another broken V70R My wife drove it all of last week to work (60 miles round trip/day), Also drove it Saturday with no issues. We did not drive it on Sunday, and she calls me this morning (I'm already at work) and says that when she turns the key, the dash lights come on but are very dim, and it doesn't even have enough power to crank at all. Not even click. WTF! It's like this car knows that I work 14 hours every Monday and Tuesday and always brakes at the worst times. My first thought is that the battery just died, but the more I think about it, the more I think that something likely was left on and ran the battery dead. I guess I'll figure it out when I get home.. The latch on the liftgate has been acting a little wonky. Wonder if that has something to do with it. Thankfully we hadn't let the old trusty 850 go yet, so she is driving that today. Bring on the coffee. It's going to be another late night. This car is going to be reliable if it kills me

Alright, well I got home at 10:40 pm and checked all the vacuum hoses and didn't find anything suspect, so I pulled the MAF out and wouldn't you know.. A Chinese Dorman replacement. The c70 manual swap donor parts car comes to the rescue again with an OEM Bosch MAF. Install it in the V70R, clear the light and go for a drive. It might just be the lack of sleep talking, but it seemed to run much smoother than it ever has. It's snowing here now, so I whipped some cool AWD donuts in a nearby parking lot and am now going to bed. All is good for now again. Cheers!

In this edition of "The Weekly CEL"... P0102.. Points to the MAF, or possibly a vacuum leak somewhere. Fml. Gonna be another late night. For the P0102 code.. As long as the vacuum lines are good, the issue has to be the MAF, correct? Might swap out the MAF from my parts car for good measure anyways. Every vacuum line on this car has been replaced with silicone, so I'm doubting a vacuum leak is the culprit. Just trying to get a handle on this so that when I get home at 10:30 tonight I can rule things out fairly quickly.

The oil pump reseal went smoothly and the leaks at the front of the engine seem to be gone! Yay! There is still a slight leak coming from what I can only imagine is the rear main seal that I am not going to worry about at this time. My wife has finally started daily driving this and as long as there isn't another failure this week, the in-laws will be taking delivery of the silver 850 next weekend. I am relieved to finally get ahead of this thing a little. There are still some things that will get improved on, but it is roadworthy at this point and seems to get compliments everywhere it goes. Cleaned up and ready for DD family hauling! (Don't mind Indiana's winter "permacloud" that makes everything look gloomy till spring) And finally parked in her garage spot instead of in the shop!

Thanks, We'll see how it goes. The parts should be delivered today and I will work on it tonight. I already have it torn down to the point where all I have to take off is the timing belt and the oil pump, so just short of halfway done already. As long as the o-ring fits and installs properly, I hope to have it back on the road tonight with the right side of the undercarriage dry for the first time in my ownership. Fingers crossed.

Wow! That is a beautiful property! x3 on the jelly. Looks like just about the perfect setup. Have fun!

It is possible. I have never had the pump out myself, but who knows what the previous owner did. I usually lube up o-rings liberally before pushing them into bores as to avoid rolling them. We'll see how it goes.. I've got the oil pump seal kit ordered as well as the front o2 sensor. I was planning on waiting to fix this but screw it I'm impatient, hopefully I'll have it done this weekend. On a nicer note, she still looks good. I've been playing around with photobucket editor..

So going through the oil pump procedure, it seems pretty straight forward. The only thing that I can't figure out is what if any sealant goes on the round flat gasket behind the oil pump? Or does it get installed dry?

Just to update, the code from this morning's CEL was P0133 which evidently points to the front o2 sensor being bad.. That's on the short list of things that haven't been replaced yet, so doesn't surprise me. Also kind of explains my averaging only 20mpg highway recently.

Thanks Mojojo. The hose came from O'Reillys, I believe the part number is 27066 and is made by gates. It's 1/2" diameter oil cooler hose. Just grind a slit on the crimped part of the old hose (be very careful not to grind too far down and destroy the metal pipe). Use a large flat blade screw driver to finish splitting the crimped metal piece. Once that is split give the hose a few twists and pull it off the pipe. The new hose fits snugly and should be double clamped. I've done this on several different types of cars and I have never had one fail prematurely. No sense on spending hundreds on new hoses.

Ok, cool. Sounds like a plan. The timing belt job was just done a couple of months ago, so I'll be reusing that. Haha! Trust me, I understand about the budget. I gave myself well over what I estimated I would need when I bought it and passed that up a while ago. It's not nearly as much the money (I am most certainly going to make sure that things are done right), I just have other projects that I want to work on and this one keeps taking all the resources. Its all good though. Finally closing on on that light at the end of the tunnel.

That's what it seems like to me (The big o-ring right?). I keep reading that the oil pumps hardly ever fail. Should I be fine with just replacing the gasket and o-ring? At 219k miles should I change the pump too? I'd really rather not especially since it's over $200 and shows no signs of failure besides the seal leak.. I'm already so far over budget on this car lol

I worked on this car some more over the weekend. I thought that the oil leak was coming from the 219k mile original oil cooler lines or an improperly sealed oil thermostat. So I pulled the lines and rebuilt them, replaced all of the o-rings, and replaced the rectangular oil thermostat gasket. I got it all put back together and drove it around for an hour running errands. Got home and everything underneath was covered in oil again.. Yay. So I made an evening out of it. I was going to find this leak! I pulled the timing belt cover and checked for leaks at the cam seals. Perfectly dry, so it was something lower.. I bought a case of brake cleaner and got to work cleaning everything. Once I was satisfied that the area was completely and totally dry, I started the car and let it run while laying underneath with a drop light looking for the first signs of seepage. Nothing.. Ugh.. Obviously it was leaking from somewhere near the lower front cover, but everything was perfectly dry after 15 minutes of warm idling. I had a helper rev the car up and down and hold the rpm at about 2k for about 20 seconds.. Then I see the oil start to creep out... From between the oil pump and the bore that it fits into? Weird... Here is what it looked like when it first started seeping: The tab sticking down from the oil pump is perfectly dry, so it's coming from behind that.. Then after holding the revs up for a while longer, the leak grew more obvious: Am I correct that it is the large o-ring that goes around the oil pump that has failed? Besides the o-ring and the round gasket, what all is needed to replace this? From what I've read, the oil pumps on these cars basically never fail. At 219k miles logic seems to dictate just changing the whole pump, but since it shows no signs of failing can I just reseal it and be good to go? The timing belt system is only a couple months old, I won't be replacing that stuff. Thoughts? I'm planning on taking care of this at the next oil change since I really don't feel like wasting another 7 qt of Mobil1 synthetic. I'll just top it off as needed until then. Also to update: The cheap ebay mufflers are a bust. On top of being way too loud, they have now developed a rattle from somewhere inside the can like something has come loose. Over the summer, they are going to be replaced with a pair of welded Flowmaster 40 series delta flow mufflers with some nice looking tips. Should have gone that way from the beginning. Oh well. Lastly, I took this picture of my cluster this morning to show off the new lights and lack of warning lights.. Then 5 minutes later in the way to work the CEL came on again. This car truly does hate me. I'll diag the light when I get home tonight..

Ah.. I thought the red light was the difference.. Guess I'll pay the dealer to do it sometime I didn't have have a scale at the time, but based on what they say the materials weigh per sqft I would estimate around 8 extra pounds of material went into the hatch. It still opens and shuts fine, just a little heavier when opening the first few degrees before the shocks take over. I just replaced the hatch shocks this fall though so they still work well. The hatch still stays up even with the extra weight in single digit temperatures we are have had. There is now a more satisfying sound when closing the hatch instead of the hollow rattly noise before. I did have to add some extra screws to the interior panel because it would pop of when closing the hatch. Not sure if that is related to the sound deadening, or because the way Volvo decided to attach the panel is crap. I'm going to eventually rework the mounting on a nicer panel so that it bolts on.

I played with the fobs last night. I pulled both fobs apart and made one good one. According to the "remote tester" at the local Oreilly's my "good" remote is at least functioning now, but still doesn't work on the car. The red light on the sun sensor on the dash does flash when the locks are locked manually, so I think the alarm works. For some reason though I can't seem to set the fob to the car. I tried the ignition on/off 5 times procedure that I found on MVS, but nothing is happening.. I have the red light on the dash, so I should be able to set the fobs myself as opposed to having a dealer do it right? The seals for the oil thermostat and oil cooler hoses will be here by the end of the week, Also going to rebuild the hoses. I am going to work on that this weekend.

Yeah, I just don't understand why that seal fits so poorly in the thermostat housing. Even the OEM one. I'm probably going to do the rectangle gasket, and the o-rings as well as rebuild the hoses because I'm sure they are getting ready to fail like everything else on this car.. And the only thing I hate more than doing things twice is doing them 3 times..