gdog

Just re-read your whole thread (again); so much good information here! Thanks for sharing!

What size MAF housing are you using? The original MAF editor just multiplies the constants in your bin maf table by whatever multiplier constant you enter. I.e. the usual constants supplied (1.34, 1.94, 2.57) assume you're starting with a stock bin. If you've already modified the MAF table in your bin and you need to update it again (and you're going with one of the std sizes) I recommend you use the "Alternative Mafconverter" available here: http://m44.wikia.com/wiki/Modified_Vehicles direct link: http://www.meditekst.nl/M44/M44_MAF_Converter.zip I recently ran into this when I switched from S90 to 540i maf housing. To answer your question; no, if the maf conversion is done correctly, you should not have to mod other params for the maf update. And remember, use your stock maf sensor; you're only up-sizing the housing. BTW: I'm assuming we can all thank Piet for both of these apps?

Glad to hear you're sticking with it!! Sounds like you're making some pretty awesome power! Good luck on the car, and your masters program!

Much thanks to @Oreo931 and @JA VOLVO !! I think my 855T may need this soon; the driver's side is getting squeaky.. @Oreo931 how much weight do you think you added to the dash? Fiberglass isn't the lightest stuff.. Thanks again!

Thanks but can't open the pdf. Do you have to be a "supporting member" or something? Says I don't have permissions. Could you post on generic server like dropbox or something?

OK, good answer..

..and now April.. no progress?

OK, it's March already; no updates..?

Grandpa must be smiling..

Yeah, thought of that, but that wasn't the stock solution, was it? Was the back seat latch plasti-covered when new?

Bahaha! So's mine; thanks again for the tip! I wonder if there's such a fix for the rear seat-backs; I leave them down (unless they're being used) because they squeak like someone stepping on a mouse when they're up.

@tuner4life Yeah, nice detective work. Think I'd spring for a new fuel filter while you're at it... Tow truck drivers must of got a lot of business in that area recently..

You sure it's p0175? That's bank2?! Maybe some O2 sensor harnesses got damaged from driving through deep snow? I'd ck fuel pressure too.. Let us know what you find.. P0175 - Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 2

Great work; glad to see you're making progress! So the body repair is still TODO I take it? That should be an interesting project.. Good luck!

Dang you! It's because of this post I've noticed my cable must be sticky too.. Frik; throw one of those in the next parts order..

Your post made me ck mine, and while the plastic piece is there, it has a groove worn on the underside. You're referring to the piece in the center, yes? Do you have a P/N handy? Not seeing it on fcp site..? UPDATE: NM; right after I posted this, I found it! https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-trunk-lock-actuator-motor-850-9485477 Glad you're finally enjoying the car again after all that work!

Why would you want to do that?!

This part is still true BTW..

Cool; DIY valve job! Are those neway cutters or something else? Last time I was doing valve work (Hmm; friggin loooong time ago) we used the stones. You've had good luck with the low speed cutters like this? I would think the exhaust's would need more refreshing than the intake side.., no? I used to work on motorcycles (again, long ago) with solid lifters, but they had cam bearing journals which were separate from the valve cover, so it was a much easier job to adjust valve lash; can't believe volvo didn't do that once they went to solid lifters.. don't envy you on that task..

Wow, should be able to see yourself in that combustion chamber! Assume you're getting a valve job after that; anything special there? Very interested in progress on this front.. please keep us updated. That's tight (yeah, i know; what someone said..)! Less than 0.001" Were the pistons heated up to 60 degrees with the block too? I would think the heat expansion ratios between the block and pistons would be similar, no? Long slow break-in planned, or quick and dirty? Looking forward to more progress reports.. BTW: assume you plasti-gauged the big-end and crank bearing clearances? What did you see there?

Umm, what is coming soon? Is that your new engine block?

Now you get to finally drive it.. whoop!! BTW: you need one of these brake bleeders; then you can still bleed the brakes when your helpers are asleep..

Dang man!? Sorry to hear about your mishap. Hope your luck gets better from here on out! Glad to see you're not going to let it slow you down though..

If the bearings are not noisy or show excess play, then they're likely fine, though it's it one of those, "while in there" replacement kind of things. You'll need to test the diodes in the bridge rectifier too; that could have been the cause of the excess current draw..? For the money, those don't sound like OEM parts; let us know how it works out. I'd be interested in what sources you found for alt parts..? Good luck.

If you just needed the voltage regulator (worn out brushes) then what I do is call around alt/starter rebuild shops with the bosch part number. Usually someone local has one, or can get one asap. Unfortunately in your case, those slip rings (the copper rings that the brushes ride on) are spent! I've never seen any so burned up! Wondering if you have/had an excessive current draw (like a battery with a dead cell, or one of the bridge diodes in the rectifier failed)? Think you're looking at a new or rebuilt alt at this point and ck out your battery too. Bummer