zazzn

wow 4k posts, thats a LONG time of posting..

or pay for memebership hrm.

Actually yes they are hard as well.

Like anything it takes practice.

To go from this:

to this:

Thanks, yet again, for giving me a mid-day laugh.

Johann, don't you know that NO ONE has EVER tuned a 1JZ-GTE with AEM EMS before zazzn? I mean, c'mon, Dynojets don't lie.

Johann is

So you are telling me a professional driver form team Titan couldn't cut a 1.8 60 foot on a s70 auto, with 250-260 WHP? Using some decent Z rated tires?

You seem to be the standalone authority on EMS's yet your car is

Sorry boys but your but

Let me guess, you are using the AEM provided base map since tuning doesn't make sense?

Reading your posts makes me feel mentally challenged. Find me an AEM provided base map for a 1jz-gte. Oh yeah none exist so keep guessing because your knowledge/technical ability shines though when you do.

How much does it cost to run at your track? If you can go there and cut a 1.8 60 foot with your 97 mph trap S70 and run a 13 second 1/4 mile time, I will pay your entry. Put your money where your mouth is... Not everyone here with a 97 mph trap is a lousy driver or has no idea what's going on.

5 psi, specifically the 5 psi jump from 15-20, will not get you much on a 16T, especially with stock intercooler and exhaust. You will be fading to approximately the same boost level both ways, just getting a higher and peakier torque curve when the boost spikes in the midrange. You will NEVER see 35-50 whp from just turning the boost from 15 to 20 psi on an otherwise stock car, again I will give you 5 dollars if you can somehow prove this is possible.

Eric, the truth is you don’t know and nor do I. Never say never, is something you should know by now as there is always someone out there that will prove you wrong. No one said anything about a stock car, 3” exhaust and intake will defiantly be needed.

again

Sure dude. The only FWD volvos that come close to 1.8 60ft are the 500+ HP Swedes on drag radials and gutted interior. These cars simply do not launch well.

It appears to me your definition of WHP is based on a very optimistic dynojet buddy.

And yes he is not going to get nowhere near a 35-50 whp boost from an extra 5 psi jesus. His turbo is still pretty efficient at 15 psi, it most definitely will not be at 20. Even if it was, 50 wheel would be really optimistic.

You're really not showcasing too much knowledge here.

He's using a Tec³ EMS in his datsun.

JC – You still don’t get it 60 foot times has nothing to do with having 500 WHP or 300WHP (to an extent). Traction, traction and traction has to do with that. Volvo owners don’t cut good times because they don’t have the proper tools to do so. Automatics, drag suspension, and MT drags will all optimize ¼ times. So saying that 13’s on 97MPH can’t be done is a lie. Bash dynojets all you want, I didn’t create them I merely use them to provide me with factual data results.

That is really the dumbest thing I have ever heard.

Then we learn a chip doesn't do anything..

Your Supra talk simply has no place on thise forum. You could look at it as the inability to properly tune a Volvo so you go the easy way.

Just buy the proven of the shelf Supra bolt on tuning parts and you are done, nothing special, totally not impressed.

It's ok you don't understand why it works maybe you never will.

Yes waste your money on a chip, I’ll race you after you install it and we'll see who’s faster.

Of course it has no merit here, because you say so. An engine is an air pump the same principals apply form one application to another, but you already knew that. Are we ready to add useful information to this tread keyboard warrior?

Just that you're giving advice to people without having been there and done that...

I just tried to say that no one will find the traction with a 97 mph ET to run 13s.

You don't have any real life experience with these cars to back that up...

Deafdano and Joseph are probably next in line with 16T cars, having trapped 102 with chip/exhaust/mbc setups. Behind that, I don't think there is anyone trapping 100 or higher.

Eric, I have "been there and done that" my volvo has been running with the wastegate line disconnected for the last year with NO PROBLEMS! It doesn't get anymore real then that.

I’ll say it again 13's IS possible with a 97mph trap. If you can’t cut the 60 foot it’s not the cars fault but the driver. I'll admit I haven't cut a 1.8 so far, I’ve only been to the track once with bald tires that i was wasting before I purchased my new snows. I know many people on wide variety of cars that cut 1.8's on radials. The people who will ET the best are always autos.

102MPH trap on a 3500LBS car is VERY close to 300WHP if not over that and you should know that.

On a Dyna pack, my car made 239 whp on 1.03 bar (values read off the boost pressure signal we used off the dyna pack) in 3rd and 242 whp in 4th gear. This same car went to the track and trapped 99.9 MPH. S70 just has a MBC and a drop-in K&N Panel Filter.

Dyna packs read 15-20% lower then DynoJets, Manuals make more power then autos and this is all common knowledge. Now you are telling me that for an extra 5 PSI of boost you will not gain 35-50 WHP?

For all that time money and energy tuning I don’t see how they paid any dividends over my tuning ability so stop bashing it. You have more MPH simply because you are a 5 spd.

As a moderator of another internet forum I must say it’s sad that personal attacks made by other members on me have not been delt with.

I request that someone here discredit the infomation I have provided with PROOF and reasons WHY they won't work and where I have led someone astray.

As a side note Johann I hardly call this bolt ons. Call me when you have tuned an AEM EMS your self.

1.8 60 foot won't happen without slicks. I'm not a bad driver and have put a lot of time in at the track, along with a few others, and my best 60' on street tires with the manual transmission is 2.2 (after which I spun first and second gear just rolling into the powerband, killing my trap anyway), and most people don't get better than a 2.1 in any of their runs.

I have talked to one person who has run 1.8 60 foot on a mildly modified turbo Volvo, but other than that have only seen the likes of 2.1-2.2 from the faster drivers here. It sucks, but they are heavy cars with peaky torque bands being pulled by one front wheel...

I like your reasoning on the 60 foot though, gives me a mid-12 second car but oh well (13.3 at 107 with a 2.2 60 foot.. was decent launch, no bogging and a tiny bit of spin, then perfect traction for the rest of the run)

Back to the issue at hand, I would love to see someone make 300whp on a credible dyno with a 16T, or report trap speeds that would indicate such power. However, lots of people have modified their cars rather heavily with that turbo and they all fall way short. I would be pleased to be making 250-260 whp on that turbo... And that's about where most people here stop gaining much

Eric why are you arguing with me only to agree in some way?

So again to recap 97MPH is a 13 sec E/T with traction. (especially with an auto boosting off the line) We aren't talking -about driving skill simply ET and MPH.

-Someone aperently did 297WHP on the 16T already.

I'm mean guys I know you are friends why not stop defending your friend for a second and really think about what I'm saying. I never set out to bash attack or belittle someone, instead I was the target of the flames as usual because I'm trying to share VALID points with new people to the board. Like it or not all the facts that I have stated are true, I'm have not lied to anyone and I've done this all form good will to try to help others. I gave warnings and tried to explain how and why my theories work. I dare you to post this whole thread on other car websites and see the type of responses you get.

I like my volvo but I will never take it to the level of my supra, but that won't stop me form helping someone that wants to get to that level. I realize it's NOT the best platform for big power but it is the best platform to meet my needs as a DD. Power, space, reliablity, conforts and finally cost

Do you know anything at ALL about tuning??

Timing pull is when knock is detected by the knock sensors in the engine, and Motronic cannot alleviate the issue by enriching the mixture so pulls the stock timing values at that RPM and boost level WAY back. Many modern engine management systems (if not all) do this.

Yes, every car running boost will have the timing "pulled" back at peak torque, but this is in the base ignition map, not a reactive measure by the ECU. You have a base timing setting at idle (low rpm and high vacuum), the timing value increases linearly with RPM and is reduced in correlation with torque level (on boosted cars can be simplified to boost level usually). That's the basic idea behind an ignition timing map. at 12 degrees BTDC base timing, you may be running 30 degrees timing at peak power (higher rpm well past the torque peak). If your car knocks, Motronic will pull the timing back into the single digits (which, really, it may be at already around the torque peak but should go way up after that), sometimes into the negative, and will kill the power you are making.

This is basic ignition tuning theory, and a large aspect of why your "spin the turbo into the ground and run as much boost you can" blanket advice holds no water.

So basically what you are saying Eric is that the ecu is pulling timing?

Ok thanks for agreeing!! :ph34r:

Everyone is jealous of your S70 with a boost controller, that is probably correct. I know I am, it still has A/C and everything probably works

14.4 is hardly low 14s, and if you would observe how fast people trap for their 1/4 times in these cars, 97 is NOT good for high 13s.

Joseph is one of the few active members on this board who has modified a car himself into the 13s, and Johann has two of the faster cars on the board as well. My car is pretty sorry right now but has been very fast in both the tune that I purchased it in, as well as the block-up build and engine swap I did myself in my driveway. Do I see a trend developing here? People who have actually put work into their cars (Volvos) themselves and made them fast rolling their eyes at you?

Just because you have a fast Supra does not mean your Volvo is anything to be especially proud of. You are doing things with it, getting it on the dyno and going to the track, as well as sharing your results... For that I am grateful. However, acting as though a boost controller install makes you the know-it-all go-to guy for Volvo performance modification is pretty far out there man

For the record, I believe Joseph has trapped higher than 97 in his 1998 S70 which also only has a boost controller. He has also done it at lower boost levels (15-16?) because he had his car on a dyno and progressively turned the boost up from stock until it stopped making more power (although his AFR's were still good). If you need explanations as to why Johann should be respected you are ignorant or read nothing on this board (why bother posting then?).

We all appreciate your contributions, but Jesus Christ man wake up and look around you. There are people here who know more about these cars than you do and have more real world experience, which might come as a shock, but saying you have a 500 whp Supra in every post you make doesn't make you an authority.

Also, how many threads have we had which have deteriorated into zazzn telling us all that we just need a boost controller because his supra makes 500 whp? Too many?

You know Eric it, you are one of the people who I actually respect on this forum because you make INTELLGENT posts. However I disagree with you on some points here.

-I have a problem with the Volvo community recommending and ECU upgrade which is not needed (unnecessary money spent for anyone who has a little DIY in them)

-My Volvo is my DD hence why I do not heavily mod it.

-97MPH IS good for a 13 second trap 1.8 60 foot and it would probably be a 13.7 (I had 2.4 60 foot)

-Just because it’s a supra doesn’t mean general rules don’t apply over platforms.

-Joseph could well have made power up to that point but it doesn’t change the fact that he hasn’t contributed anything useful in his last slew of posts.

-No one is saying I’m a know it all, I AM SAYING that 300WHP IS possible on a 16T, however, in a attempt to BACK UP MY CLAIMS I simply get bashed.

I think people need to step back here and think of what others are doing in terms of performance upgrades.

by the way My AC does work and I’m very glad for that, and no sadly it doesn’t on my supra.

If someone could post intelligently on WHY my methods wouldn’t work maybe I could accept that however, I’ve followed this method on other cars with pleasing results. If it was such a bad thing my car should have blown up years ago but she’s still boosting and getting me form a to b reliably and that’s what counts.

Last point... Someone has already made close to 300WHP aperently on a 16T so i'll end it on that note.

Is it still making power? Isnt' that the goal even if it pulls timing? Yes I can physically feel power loss if I drive on 91. Hence why I use 94, it stock ecu's will ALWAYS pull timing when boost gets high, afterall it's not expecting or programmed for the change. You can poke holes in my credibility all you want. I know that I've got dyno sheets showing 244WHP and time slips in the low 14's with a MPH good for 13's all done at a fraction of the cost it's taken you. My engine has 248000KM on it, and my turbo is original. So poke away, I know I haven't blown any t5 engines, I know that I'm faster then may of the people on this board and I also know I spent LESS then 1000$ doing it.

by the way if 500WHP is so easy on a 1jz making 300 on a Volvo should be a walk in the park and guess what IT IS!

You can bash me all you like the fact of the matter is I'VE MADE POWER MY SELF and YOU HAVE NOT. Grow up and act like a moderator, OPEN your eyes to new ideas and LEARN instead of thinking you are king SHIZ.

Pathetic, from, and experience.

Regardless, pull some timing logs of your S70's current setup, and let's see where all this EXPERIANCE has taken you.

by the way... news flash, hate to break it to ya... but making 523 WHP on a 1JZ is like properly installing a chip/mbc/turbo/exhaust on any 850 T5. Congrats big boy. Someone break out the fking party hats.

Spoken again form someone who’s obviously jealous. Making accusations, with NO proof to validate his bogus claims. Maybe because you say I should buy I chip I should? Any car with high boost will PULL timing, it’s a fact of life. If you want MORE timing ADD better FUEL. Now for some FACTS a 1jz with stock twins will make NO more then 350-380 WHP without the addition of cams and lots of engine goodies.

Again you add NOTHING CONSTRUCTIVE to this topic only ignorance.

No wonder Volvo owners are in the dark ages when it comes to power production… Nothing but kids here to bash. I remember when buddy was making low 13 second passes on his LPT and everyone instantly bashed him. You are a sorry excuse for an enthusiast.

Thanks. Gives a clear view of your level of tuning and understanding..

Your sad shot to at putting me down is patetic, NOT only have you NOT provided ANY good infomation to the thread but you bash me directly. You probably haven't even hit the same level of performance that my volvo is doing let alone make 523 WHP. YES my 523WHP supra was all created BY MY 2 HANDS, from tuning, to part select, to installation.

Grow up, and post something constructive, I SPEAK FORM EXPERIANCE. You are a LARGE reason why no one want's to even bother posting to help.

But, 600AWHP is not ALL turbo. There is an engine on there too. For example, my 18T makes roughly 300WHP on my car @ 20 PSI. But if you put a turbo kit consisting of my 18T on a Ferrari Enzo, It would be over 600WHP even on 5 PSI.

I recently boosted 22 PSI => 20 PSI from MBC by stretching spring + WG rod shortened 3 times.

I bent a rod and 5 hydraulic lifters AS SOON as I did this. Not cool. BUT, my timing was also advanced and it could have helped bend them.

Be safe guys. Instead of getting another 20 (twenty) WHP on your car, thus bending a rod and lifters, just lighten your car by 200 Pounds and get the same results.

Recap: 20 PSI is fine, but 22 is the danger zone.

Lextildeath, i'm sure it had nothing to do with the boost being at 22 PSI. I'm sure you either detonated (especially if you where running pump gas) or you went too lean. I have a feeling you detonated because if you go too lean on good fuel usual you just melt something. In this case you took out the a rod which in tern took out your head which causes me to believe you detonated.

Anytime you are doing ANY boost modifications you should have the proper tools to know if you are going to cause damage. A wideband/EGT is highly recommended, however, a dyno session can be just as useful. Every car responds differently. 21 PSI on my car may not work the same as 21 on your car. All i'm saying is blame the tune now the motor.

zazzn how 'bout a better wastegate in general?

More pain then it's worth to put an external wg and weld up the stock internal....

might as well just get a new turbo if you gonna spend all tha tmoney to modify all that crap.

Actually, if you read zazzn's a bit more critically, he is actually discrediting EBC's to a point, and instead suggesting that our factory wastegate design/size is the problem.

Well EBC's are great the it's two fold to make this work, you have to stop the surging by allowing the wg to open via ebc / MBC and you have to hold the boost via not allowing the wg to open.

He makes it sound like extra manifold pressure is something innocent. It isnt. It reduces power, puts more stress on the rods and lowers the "knock-limit". Especially because this is already an issue with our cars stock exhaust manifolds and tiny turbines. Aside from that if a 16T were to hold 20 psi at 6000rpm on a 2.3L engine you'd be so far off the compressor map its not funny.

294 whp on a 16T would be a nice example of a dyno that aims to please.

JCviggen, no one said it's good, but i've heard the same story you tell time and time again form people over and over. Many people love to regurgatate this story over and over but never want to test on their own car. If I didn't adjust my rod I wouldn' tmake more then 13 PSI to redline. Currently i make 15 to redline and spike 20 because I don't have a EBC or a MBC for that fact.. I just simply have the WG line pulled right off. I've been driving my car like this for 1 year.... Before, you say it... Yes it's been to the dyno and it's 10:1 on the dyno so yes there is plenty of fuel... Exactly like I preeched before... You'll hit fuel cut before you run out of fuel... (I did when I hit 22 psi one day fooling with the rod)

by the way just because it's off the compressor map doesn't mean it's not making power, simply JUST less power, and not all comrpessor maps are valid. Take for example the Garrett GT35R people are making 600AWHP but yet they claim it can barely do 500 crank.

I'm not saying anyone has to follow what I have done, no one has to listen. All I know is, many people would rather you buy their expensive snake oil when you coudl simply achieve the same setup if you had a little know how.

Personally, i believe the volvo crew on this board have limited exposure to tuning. Due to the advent of the ECM flash they simply buy a chip and what ever that chip gives them thats they are happy with.

I perosnally believe the 16T could make 300 WHP. I made 244 though an AUTO with an already heatsoked engine and that was only 12-13 PSI by redline.

The key here is to get the 16T to HOLD 20 PSI to redline, and the only way you can do this is not though some fancy boost control although an EBC will help steady the boost and help bulid boost faster.

The way to hold boost on a small turbo like this is to physically make the flapper of the wastegate not able to open more then a set amount.

What happends is there will be so much back pressure in the manifold trying to get pass the turbo that it will physically FORCE open the wastegate. Once it does this it bleeds off boost until it gets to a point where it takes the same pressure to go out the WG as the turbine wheel. Why boost continues to drop off to redline is becuase the more you rev the more air you pump though the engine.

EBC is good to stop the boost from overboosting downlow because adjusting the rod will screw up low boost so you need a boost controller to control boost downlow and the rod to handle up top.

Basically if you close the rod on the WG you FORCE the manifold pressure to rise but you also force more air though the turbine = more boost.

I've done this sucessfully on mk3 supras and where the previous though of 290-300 WHP on the stock turbo was the max guys are now pumping 350+ whp....

The super 60 is a nice compressor wheel but remember that you still have the td04 exhaust wheel which is causing alot of backpressure buildup and excess heat. Thats why Im not a fan of the Td04hl-19t, same thing, your having a large compressor wheel making the power, but you have the exhaust path confined by the small td04 exhaust wheel. So your going to need some careful tuning to ensure that you dont bend rods from excess heat and detonation, if you really want a nice upgrade, see if you can swap out the exhaust wheel/housing for something larger like a Td05

I'd rather have a huge compressor and a tiny exhaust to povide a good low end high revs is not what the 5cyl engine is about. So you limit your top end... I'd rather have my power fall off just before redline then peak just before reline and carry on pass redline.

Anyone know what may cause this flutter/skip, I'm getting this as well at high boost under heavy acceleration 17-19psi?????

Sounds like you may have compressor surge, if the compressor is too big and the engine cannot ingest all that flow because the exhaust wheel is too small you'll get compressor surge.

Eaither that or it's fuel cut.