MadeInJapan

Thanks Keaton- I'm just basically lazy and don't need the extra space plus my car is 240K and I do mostly city driving now- job and back and a little around town. At my age (55 next month), I'm not going for the 0-60 in 6 seconds anymore. LOL. I think I'll just remove the line from the solenoid and cap that spot on the vacuum tree and put duct tape around the inlet to the air box from the SAS pump and call it a day. That sounds simple enough! One day I'll need to fix the vacuum leak under the battery that is keeping my cruise control from working and I might find a reason for wanting more space down there. At that time I will probably work on deleting the whole thing.

So, I did the delete last night on my '98 S70 T5 by soldering a diode between A32 and A37 (not A33 to A38 which almost got me to do it wrong from the YouTube video and I'd bet the reason for other's having codes now).

The SAS pump had been screeching and I knew it would go soon.

After the delete I also unplugged the power to the SAS pump

Everything is working as described since the delete

I am leaving the air pump as is. I have not pulled off any vacuum lines.

My question is, is pulling off the hoses and capping them really necessary? I might get a smidgen more boost?

What real benefit will that get me? The car should act as if it did when the air pump wasn't running right?

I might get a smidgen more boost or is there something else?

I have an IPD upgraded T5 ECU BTW....

You're input is appreciated- I'm trying not to over-think this thing as many have already done here.

Full edit....why? Because I'm a member again...

My member thanks you!

but how many peope have the time to get all that stuff, for those prices? not many people outside of volvospeed. Your average 40 year old guy, who knows hotdog about turbo swaps, is gonna see this "kit", and go "effin sweet! all i do is pay, and my car goes way faster"...

Ok so I'm in the 40+ crowd and no I don't know hotdog about a turbo swap, thats why I joined this board so that I would be able to get some good info on these cars.

Yes before I found out about this board I probably would have gone out and bought it. And yes the young people of this world will always try to find a better and faster way of doing things. We do have the experience at doing things and you can teach an old dawg new tricks.

So don't put all of us in the same group

Nothing against you young whippersnapers for one day you will be 40 something and the 20+ crowd will talk about you the way you are doing now

+1 for you Tx Heat...I'm in your age group too....46 here. I won't go out and buy that $3000 bolt on kit either. My family's just normal people if you know what I mean. I have a teenager that costs money. We do have 2 Volvo's but that's because I can afford them if I do most of our maitenance myself. Upgrades happen slowly around here....but they do happen.

Depending on the GB price, I'm interested in the P2 rear's now. Others are all HD ipd and replaced a few months ago so I'm good for now. As soon as those go I'll buy Slater's too even if the GB price is not in effect anymore. I'm talking about for both of our cars.

as far as issues I think the car runs perfect. I only have messed up door panels which im replacing before the sale, and my front passanger shock is bad it makes noize lol but its still very drivable the engine is great, very strong. im just selling because i need money for my new bimmer. as far as int pics ill try to take some soon. and so are the gauges.

Also I forgot to mention i have red led in my instrument cluster so it glows red just like my boost gauges.

GLT....I see the exhaust mod in your sig...so no ECU upgrade right? How many total miles? Can we see a pic of the fabbed cold air intake? May have a potential customer near me, but in TN....any ideas on shipping to TN?

You could have a pinched line to the gauge. When I first installed mine it would do this. After I shut the car off and tapped on the side of the gauge it "zeroed up." I figured it was pinched and keeping some air in the line. So I took the gauge out of the pod and found that in attaching the pod, I had pinched the line. Got the line out of the way and clear and my problem was solved.

Now, it doesnt happen all the time... but if I say, start the car with the a/c on, right as i hear the a/c compressor click on, i also hear this muffled 'thump' that comes from the general area where the compressor is located (front rightish) (still in P by the way)... when i first heard it the other day, I thought the a/c was completely shot... but a few seconds later the air starts coming out cold... so it seems like it has something to do with the a/c (it doesnt make that thump when i start the car with a/c off), but it doesnt do it all the time with it on...

any ideas?

I would suspect a sticking service or serpentine belt tensioner. The A/C sompressor coming on is just enough to make it move and clunk. You can see it at work, so have someone start the car and turn the A/C on as you watch the tensioner and see if you see it move abruptly.

too bad i can't search the acro "pcv" otherwise i could find that real quick...

It's in the pinned thread section. In the middle of the page, here:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/Volvospeed-...airs-t8739.html

I had this anoying buzzing (rattle?) sound coming from what I though was the dash...terrible trouble trying to pin it down. Had my son ride with me and we finally found it. It ended up being the plastic housing around the reading light/rear view mirror. Took it loose, put electrician's tape on the sunroof motor and rubber washers around the screws holding the housing in place and the buzzing sound is gone. Strange, but I never thought to look up that high and it sure sounded like it was coming from the dash. If you drive down the road and the buzzing starts, try holding up on the housing I mentioned and see if the buzzing goes away. The buzzing in my case was vibrations on the housing against the components underneath it.

I've been a proponent of this for awhile and have posted it evey chance I get, but no one seems to take me seriously:

ADD to STAGE-0, PCV SYSTEM REPLACEMENT.

Have you guys seen this? In Swedish but with English scribblings to help. Drill a drain hole in the angle gear so you don't have to pump, but simply drain. When you hit the link below, click on "Download for free with FileFactory Basic" and that will take you to a second page where you click on "Click here to begin your download." http://www.filefactory.com/file/6e46b4/

That's what I suspected, 3 wires, one +12V, one -12V and which pin does the other one go to?

My tool does read and reset the ECU so I am fairly sure that once I know where the 3rd one is

I can reset the service lamp. That's what I'm trying to find out here. There are many more pins

and only 3 are identified (excluding the +/- terminals.) Unless someone with more knowledge

can add to this discussion I'm convinced that at least on the 850 series, if not V70Is as well that

the under the hood diags were simply rewired/relocated to the RS232 plug under the coin holder.

My tool gives the same blink-code sequences as with the 95 and previous owner friendly system.

I'm not sure if it's going to be as easy as you say. Like I mentioned in one of the above posts, there are only 3 pins used, but there's also a memory chip (ATMEL AT89S52-24JI, an 8bit microconroller with 8K bytes of flash and 256K of RAM memory) inside the Draper and some other small electronics. It appears that some type of "flashing" from that memory piece to the ECU has to go on to clear this code. Here is a picture of the insides of the Draper. Below it, please also find the pin configuration marked with red spots as to which pins are used:

Further, I found this from the ATMEL company...very specific specs and info about the chip used in the Draper: http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/product_...mp;part_id=1918

Quite honestly I wouldn't blame you if you did after reading some of the responses.

I do admire you for trying to help and thanks again for the service manual download!

My simple question is this: If I was able to reset my engine service light with a DIY module I made for 1$ as well

as read the code before doing so, what is so tricky about resetting the service light? Has no one ever tried this?

I would be very interrested in knowing as the link for the reader that I made (which worked) only shows pin-outs

for ECU, Climate Control and Cruise Control.

http://www.volvo-tech.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=113

What are the other pin-outs for? Is there a reason they aren't identified? Anyone know the answer?

Thanks for your kinds words! I'm still on summer break so I have the time to "waste time" right now doing searches, etc. on the web and it's been fun finding new things. I wish you could find a simple way to reset the service light, or even to read the ECC and other hidden Volvo systems with a tool. Why don't you buy a Draper tool and take it apart and see what's inside. Maybe if you're good with electronics, you can figure out how they do it. It unscrews and pops into 2 parts with only 4 screws. I will tell you that only 3 wires are used for the reset.

you are resetting the CEL (Check Engine Light)

this tool resets the Service Light. The light that just comes one every x,000 miles. it is not part of the OBDII system, but it is accessible from there.

I don't know the answer to your real question though, about the pin-outs

I took my Draper tool apart and found wires only connected to 3 pins, but there's a bunch of stuff inbetween...even a memory chip of some sort so it's more complicated than just putting a few wires together with a bulb in the middle. I've read the post you refer to here as well...not the same stuff. Not even close.

Tried to beat an Ambulance on the interstate on-ramp today (he was going to slow and not going to an emergency)....cop was sitting and just waiting on his prey...gave me a ticket for doing 80 in a 55 zone. Ouch... He was impressed with the S70 though...asked me what year it was and what all I'd done to it. He still smiled and gave me the pink paper and told me that my best bet might be going to driving school to get my record expunged....oh what a day. :monkey:

Okay, unless this really picks up, I'm just going to message everyone to get it themselves for $66-$67, at least that way it's sent directly to you and it will only cost you a buck or two more. Please message me if you have a question.

Someone on another forum was talking about increasing "boost" on his NA....NA's don't have boost, so I suspect the ECU will only deal with timing really. Can't you achieve that with Slater's Cam wheel devise?

I've edited the original post to reflect where we are at the present. I need 10 people by Midnight, Sunday Aug. 27 for this GB to proceed. Please reaffirm that you want to be involved. I can't do it for $60 shipped. It will be $65 shipped.

The reason I've done this is due to the "other" alternative and the fact that everything will still have to be shipped to me first and then "re-shipped" to you from me. This is also the reason I couldn't get the price down to where we wanted. Just post up and let me know if you're still in, or have bought by way of the other route, or just not interested anymore. If I have 10 committed at the end of the day on Sunday, I'll still proceed with this GB. Otherwise, I won't.

How important is the black plastic cover piece that fits over the bottom of the radiator? The shop I took my car to didn't screw the bolts back on and it came off while driving. (got pretty beat up from the pavement). Should I order a new part, our just slap the beat up one I have now back on?

Thanks

Slap it back on if it will still go....no one sees it anyway, and my understanding is that it really does serve a function and you should have it.

Here's the update: No matter who I contact and what deal I try to make, it works out to just over $60 shipped to my door, and that's a "lot" of these tools shipped to me in one big box. Then I would have to ship them out to you guys and charge you for the shipping from 37918. So it's not going to be $60, but a bit more. I'm going to check the weight of my Draper tool today and see what it would cost to ship anywhere in the Cont. U.S. and post back.

In the meantime, if you don't want to do this group buy, I found that for $66-67 you can get your own sent to you door. So if folks want to order their own without the hassle of me doing all of the foot work plus paying for everything up front, let me know. Since I can't post eBay sales that are not mine in this forum, let me know by email or PM and I'll give you a link to where I'm talking about. Still for $66 or $67, this tool is well worth having.

Even with the above stipulation of me getting them and then sending them out, we still need 10 people to participate. So far with one person wanting 2, we only have 4 or so lined up for the GB.

can we please start a list, i'll take one at 60 shipped

Thanks for your suggestion. I just added that as an edit to the first post. I'll keep it up to date.

I'm still negotiating. The company doesn't want to give that much of a shipping charge break like I thought at first. So I'm seeing if it is feasable to have them all shipped to me (they are coming from England) in one big box and from my home send to everyone. We'll see what comes out cheaper. I'll also update that information as things become clear. Evidently they have never dealt with folks in a "club" who live all over the place wanting to order together to save some $$.

Will this reset the SRS light on a 99+ 70 series? if so i would be very interested

No, it only works through '98 models.

The two "software" products you spoke of use a PC (laptop preferable) to look at engine diagnostics and other "hidden" functions. They claim to reset the SRI as well as the SRS light but I'm not sure if the Alex Peper software really does. Some "hidden" volvo data is still hidden from them. The draper tool requires no computer...you just plug it in, but it only claims to reset 1. SRI (service reminder indicator) lamp and the SRS (secondary restraint system, or airbag) lamp. Hope this helps.