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ruecatinat

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Posts posted by ruecatinat

  1. 15 minutes ago, Dick Dastardly said:

    ...

    Use a suitcase Crosley and tell me how much you love the Debut - so salty!

    I understand the limitations of the table and the compromises especially within the price point but really, calling it a cheap piece of stuff multiple times is uncalled for especially when I've stated multiple times mine was a gift - sort of insulting.

    The Rega still has me hooked - when enough time passes with the Pro-Ject I will hunt out another Planar 2. God I love those glass platters and the slim, wooden plinth.

  2. Just now, mattsk8 said:

    That was a tough call between the Music Hall and the Rega. I considered this Rega on eBay... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rega-P3-24-Turntable-in-Classic-Black-with-Elys-2-cartridge-RP3-/141894504768?hash=item2109925140:g:~ooAAOSwzhVWshIU

    But decided I'd rather go with the new Music Hall. I read a lot of reviews and it was basically 50/50 between Music Hall and Rega.

    Both are great options, I had my eye on the older Rega Planar 2 before I received the Debut.

    I've been looking at Music Hall's integrated amps but I'm still awhile from upgrading

  3. 20 hours ago, Dick Dastardly said:

    Not bad. I used to have one with a Sumiko Blackbird cartridge.

    Good thing you didnt buy one of those Pro-ject Carbons. Absolute garbage. worst turntable I ever owned.

    Oh come off it, it's not that bad. Mine's been perfect so far. Infinitely better than a Crosley and certainly better than a cheap, USB Sony or Audio Technica.

    1 hour ago, mattsk8 said:

    What was it you didn't like about the Pro-Ject? He replaced the Ortofon Red cartridge with a Grado Platinum. That Sumiko looks awesome, but I honestly don't know enough yet to know what I'd prefer between MC and MM cartridges. Based on what I've read, I think I'd prefer the MC cartridge. The nice thing is that my Spectral preamp will do either MC or MM, it has a switch. And price is definitely relative, the Music Hall I bought is actually pretty entry level in turntables.

    Personally I'd buy a Rega before anything else - my Pro-Ject was a gift Mike immediately shat on when I posted it in the audiophile thread :a-farmboy:

     

  4. On 1/20/2016 at 0:45 PM, RBoy8 said:

    A little under $160 CDN a month for me, only liability, and one car. I'm signed up as a primary driver for it but the car itself is still under my family's name. I should consider myself fortunate though, since my family gets a special group rate. Normal insurance rates are actually around $300-$400-ish for one car.

    From what I've heard, Brampton, ON. has the most expensive insurance rates in North American... if you thought stereotypical Asian drivers are bad, you guys need to see the drivers of Brampton. They're on a whole new level of stuff.

    Brampton is definitely home of the GTAs worst drivers - I commute in and out of Brampton for work and my insurance went up when I had to tell them that:blockhead:

    • Upvote 1
  5. 1X10 conversion done..

    34t front and 11-42t rear using a 771 XT cassette and a WolfTooth 42t cog. Also a XT medium cage clutch derailleur with a One-up components cage.

    went with a new XT shifter the XTR I had  was I-spec A and my levers are B.

    has my "Commuting" flat pedals on it now, also have old 747s and some Nuke Proof platforms

    This Bike is a perfect all arounder, from gravel paths with the kids, to super technical singletrack, back woods exploring, riding to the bar, to days at Rays MTB park on all the courses including the half-pipe and "bowl". I beat the crap out of this bike and it seems to like it.

     

    How are you finding the chain hop with the medium cage XT?

    Looks good!

     

  6. You might do better with your own thread, but the only other things coming to mind might be the PCV system needing replacing soon. Which is ~$120 last I checked for parts alone, and requires removing the intake manifold to change. If clogged, it will push oil out wherever it can. The oil cooler hoses coming out under the crank pulley, running to the radiator are expensive and can develop leaks at the rubber-to-metal fittings. The turbo has oil and coolant lines, and any of them could be leaky or rotting. Generally they'll drip down the back of the block or just behind it. If the SAS Air pump or related components are dying, it's a simple $1 fix with a resister and a soldering iron (to delete it), but it's a good way to negotiate the price down and will likely prevent you from passing an emissions test until fixed. I'd put that all under "be sure to check for codes".

    I started my own thread in the 1998 section but your replies have been great - sorry to clog the thread about something On Topic:lol:

    The car passed emissions within the past two months so an SAS pump should be clear. PCV should be interesting as from what I know with regular driving, good oil and decent gas the PCV should be fine, the PCV on our 2000 NA hit 325,000 kms ( 201, 946 miles ) on it's original system.

    Thanks for clarifying on the lines / location - at the end of the day it is a $3000, 17 year old car and I expect to replace parts here and there but I'd rather not walk into a rescue case.

  7. ruecatinat, Check the trans fluid for color and smell (buy a quart of fresh ATF if you need a baseline), and check for generally smooth shifting. But otherwise, the trans is usually reliable. Burning oil, look for leaks around the turbo, and check the condition of the charge hoses (2-3inch diameter) for rotting or if they're original, and same with the many ~3-5mm thick vacuum hoses. If they're original, they'll probably need to be replaced. I'd also do a couple wide open throttle passes after you're reasonably sure the car's in good shape. A gradual roll-on, and one to the floor, to check for hesitation, shuddering, or fluctuating power. Otherwise, the rest is generally similar to inspecting an 850 NA.

    Thanks!

    The vacuum / charge hoses and oil leaks are what concern me - is there anything typical of the year / mileage? The car in question is around 200,000 kms (or 124, 274 miles).

  8. What do you think has changed?

    The 1998 and older FWD/AWD section still exists: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/forum/6-fwdawd-1998-and-prior/ And that'd be a great place to read and post. I see in your profile you've owned a 97 850. Base trim? The 98 V70 will be mechanically similar to the 850's. In terms of maintenance/repair, the V70 GLT and T5 trims are pretty much the same. Just slightly different specs on the engine resulting in different performance.

     

    Ahhhhh I see it now. For some reason (either error operator or a glitch) I could only see the 'questions' section.

    I had a '97 850 but it was a manual and an NA, and I'm looking at a '98 GLT A/T - no experience with turbo anything so I'm out of my realm of experience and knowledge and would rather not get burned in buying a car.

  9. Went go post in the 1998 and prior subforum and it seems things have changed with the last big update - for people that know, and sorry for this seemingly stupid question, where can I ask general questions?

    I'm looking into 1998 V70 GLTs and was looking for all info under the sun...maintenance, experience, what to look for, etc.

  10. Tell me that's not a Pro-Ject carbon...

     

    hands down the worst turntable I've ever owned. 

    I had it Warrantied 3 times for new motors, they hum and the vibration gets transferred through the tone arm (which is too light and un damped) listen on quiet passages or between tracks and you'll hear it. And yes the DC motors do it too..I had a DC.

    you can't walk around your house with out it skipping with the tracking force at any useable setting.. The anit-skate weight creates a noise like a cello as the string rubs the metal hanger..

    sorry to piss in your Cheerios but sell it or return it now and Buy a Rega P2 

    ​It is a Debut Carbon.

    I haven't heard the hum in my speakers but from the motor it self before I drop the needle, but I'll listen for it. I currently live in a condo and the table lives on a solid steel media center with rubber wheels that is weighted down by all my other equipment; I've walked past it a few times and I haven't made it skip and I haven't adjusted the tracking force since I set it up. That and I can't hear any noise from the anti-skate.

    Either I've got shitty ears or the combination of the media center and the condo's concrete build have helped...

    I wanted to build up a Rega Planar 2 but this was a birthday gift. I honestly really enjoy it so far, but I've heard the acrylic platter and placing nylon washers between the motor body and the table body help quell some quirks.

  11. I can't quote for some reason so @ kampman... They're Eminence Definimax ULF woofers, which are pro-audio subs. We're driving them with 2 Crown XTi 1002 amps, one amp bridged per sub. They're super clean and very loud, but they don't play super low. For example; Talking Heads, Burning Down the House will rattle the windows in the church, but Katy Perry's Dark Horse isn't anywhere near as boomy as it should be. These subs drop quick below about 35 hz.

    @ v4lve... Kimber is beautiful wire, but my pockets aren't deep enough to justify the price of entry. If I had money to burn, I'd go either Kimber or Nordhost but it wouldn't be because I expected huge improvements in sound quality ;).

    What, no Cardas, MIT, Tara Labs? :o

  12. Sarcasm, mostly. It can be a lot of snake oil like you said and people sometime hear what they spend and it makes them happy. Some of my exposure to this realm makes me seem that the people who do spend on cabling do so reluctantly because they acknowledge the former. Or on the other side of the spectrum - to show off and dick measure.

    I did recently add a giant power conditioner to a system and it made a world of difference in low-end.

    Power is something I'd often overlooked until I went to a relative's house and helped him with an upgrade to a newer, higher quality wall-plug (duplex) and a second-hand Nordost power cable. Cleaner, more efficient power really filled in the bottom end, I was shocked!

    1000x yes. I've referred the book "get better sound" on numerous occasions just to get entangled with someone who will spend big to get nothing in return.

    It's quite easy to either get caught up in the law of diminishing returns or to blindly fork over money with no results

    Thrift store lamp cord for the win.

    I ran what was probably hacked up extension cords for most of my university days :lol:

  13. I make my own.

    Belden 75ohm coax (video wire actually) and Switchcraft pro rca's for interconnects

    Soundking 10g ofc wire with Cardas copper spades/plugs for speakers.

    Making some new stuff this week actually.

    Sold all of my Audioquest cables 5 years ago

    I've heard really good stuff about the Belden for both intercooler's and speaker wire, was going to order some but then got a bit lazy

    Sorry, I didn't mean to be rude. I just can't get behind the idea of spending hundreds of dollars on just copper wire.

    No harm, no foul. I certainly did not spend hundreds and I'm happy with my purchase.

    Oh but sometimes there's trace elements of other metals and let's not forget the quantum difference in micro dynamics, rhythm, pace and inner detail.

    Can't tell if sarcasm, but it seems to me speaker wire / ICs / power cables to audio people seem to be what oil is to car people - a never ending, nowhere debate lol

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