lookforjoe

20 hours ago, fyrken said:

Correct above!
Same design in petrol and diesel variants. Good for you to know that they can take well above 2 bar of boost for 300'000 km. (the new D5 puts out 350 kPa boost (absolute values) with Polestar software - great engine!)

So, if you could get one of those you are fine! Some small modifications I think, but alot less money than aftermarket.

Is there any chance you have pictures or dimensions of the IC? I would like to compare with the Elevate IC. Given that you / your friend used it for 500hp, it sounds like it would more than cover my needs, since I'm not intending to go over low/mid 300's at the wheel on this. This is not the sort of item I can order & return if I don't like the look of it.

Plugging in 2015 S60 w/4 cyl, the correct IC comes up.

Thanks for the reply - so what year did they start? 2015? I need a place to start looking :) 

EDIT - just saw Blockpartie's last post - 31338236 comes up in the US system, but can't find a model that uses it. 2015 S60 uses 31338476 according to the catalog, and has the MAP in the same place. 31338236 has no provision for a MAP. Need more info on dimensions, etc., before I consider this an option

Some of my welds aren't so pretty - Still getting practice welding SS. It's way easier than Aluminum, but seems pickier about having a clean tungsten. My near vision in low light is not good, so even with reading glasses I can end up wandering ;)

I'm using the stock rear can for now. This way I have no drone unless I open the cutout :)

I can build a rear section & just tie it to the Vband I added over the rear suspension later on.

Got the step down, V band and cut out dump tube welded today

May have to extend the cutout shroud to make sure the exhaust doesn't melt the inner fender liner rear lip.

I ran the wiring through the rear panel where the license plate harness exits the cargo area. Can't get the frigging grommet back in place - the access hole is just a little to offset relative to the grommet hole, and there's not enough space between the tie bar and the rear sheet metal to get my arm up that high. I'll figure it out later. Coming down with whatever bad cold/flu the Mrs. has, so everything today took twice as long as it should have. I also nudged the alignment of the Vband on the rear section after I marked it all up, which has the effect of kicking the right side tailpipe about 1/2" or so further out than the left. Very annoying. No way to fudge it, as there is no wiggle room with lipped Vband flanges. So , I'll probably remove the right tail pipe & reweld it in the correct orientation.

What I need to do first, is wire the cutout.  I need to find a 12v switched power supply in the cargo area for the wireless transmitter. Any ideas? I don't really want to run wires all the way through the cabin unnecessarily.

1 hour ago, fyrken said:

Nice car!

But.. Dont use that crappy chinese intercooler!
The ones from EuCD platform is basically bolt on and a great upgrade! Especially if they are from VEA generation. We have one working great on a 500 hp S40 T5 AWD.
Also the intercooler from V40 is quite good and should be a very simple install (i.e. even more "basically bolt on").
(my thought on the DO88 ones are that they are heavy and thats why they work for a shorter pull but they are not so good in getting down in temp afterwards = not good on a track car).

Nice with the exhaust upgrade! We have run a quite stock T5 with 3,5" downpipe and 2,5" rear and that hade quite the back pressure due to the high flow the K16 is able to generate. 3,5" works all the way on AWD and with cut-out is a very good system where the large silencer in the rear could be bypassed all together but still using the exhaust tip.

BR

Erik

What year S40 IC are you reffering to? VEA Gen? Any pics? I'm waiting for Bell Intercooler to get back to me on a revised design of their original IC - the one DO88 copies.

The one in the pic is 8x3.5x24" core, with a deflector added to the inlet to push air up. Can't be worse than the Elevate I have no, which is tube & fin, and reportedly not great for the K16 if DO88's graphs are accurate. No reason to believe that are not.

Slowly making some changes.

New right side mount

removed the 'shock load damper' from the clutch vent pipe ready for when I do the Wavetrac/Spec Clutch install

Working on a larger IC

Welded the EBP bung to the K16 Manifold

Installed modded lower runner, new breather box

Fitted the S60R spare - need it to clear the BBK's.

Had to make new hinges for the cargo cover

QTP Exhaust Cutout will be going back here

KYB adjustable rear shocks

Worked on the exhaust yesterday. Cut off the stock exhaust & made a 3" SS section to run from the Mototec DP back to where the cutout will end up.

Didn't like the transition from the 3" DP to the 2 3/8" stock rear section. 

Going to use a smooth transisiton 3" - 2.5" step coupler after the Vband to connect with the rear section. Down the road I can swap out the entire rear and make a 3" setup if need be. 

Used 2 Pypes Performance Exhaust SS PVM4590-30 & 1 Pypes Exhaust SS Mandrel Bends PVM3018-30. 1 Vibrant 1473S 2 Blt SS Exhaust Flg 3", 1 Vibrant 1458 2-Bolt High Temperature Exhaust Gasket. 1 x 3-2.5" SS step coupler . 1 x SS 3" Vband

Step coupler will go on the old pipe, with a V band to connect to the 3" section

Blockpartie covered it nicely.

I do have the PDV collar on my M66 AWD trans. Once you install that sucka it's NEVER coming off (in one piece). I personally have never seen the diff splines wear on an M66. I'm sure it's possible. I've seen auto trans diff splines wear though. Typically, the splines wear on the AG input shaft and in the collar. The splines become pointed instead of squared off -

This is what you want them to look like

This is what they usually look like on the AG side

Just get the new Volvo Number, you should be fine if the splines on the AG and M66 look like my first pic. 

Collar gear? Do you mean the spline coupler / collar?

You should definitely replace that if it is original. 

A CBV that is partially leaking would possibly cause delayed total boost, that was my point. If it's blown, obviously, you wouldn't be making any boost.

The CBV is accessed from the top - not below, so no messing with the AG, etc. small ratching 10mm wrench is about the easiest way to get the lower bolt tucked out of the way. Been years since I dealt with a stock turbo so I don't recall if the Turbo outlet pipe needs to come off.

If the cbv is blown, it cannot create positive pressure, since until there is sufficient volume / pressure to negate the leakage and some to continue to the intake, it will simply dump back into the intake side of the compressor. You need to remove the diaphragm and flex it looking for cracks. 

Back pressure is required to create intake pressure. So cam timing, manifold leaks, etc all play a part.

This is all very basic stuff though - Live & learn - all this should have be checked from the start. Stage 0 really. 

4 hours ago, Johann said:

It has been 4 months since last working on the car.. 

That's not so bad ;) = it's been that long since I worked on my X1/9 - only just pulled the cluster this week to do the electronic speedo conversion (Using Fiat Punto speedo, to get pulse signal for Volvo LH2.4 conversion) 

Coming along. I admire your persistence, I don't have patience to maintain work/projects on more than two cars.....

Did the car go off road/track & sustain the undercarriage damage, or did a bunch of gorillas work on the car previously??? Looks really beat up in the pics!

21 hours ago, dougy said:

 

Nice find. At the very least it has Charcoal interior :)

Why Intake VVT though?

Done for low maintenance? I personally prefer the polished look ;)

Replied to your pm - I need to fix it for you. I apologize for the trouble. 

50 minutes ago, andyb5 said:

.  Opened the hood to confirm my transmission mount had snapped the same bolt as last time  Unlike last time, I haven't done anything to provoke this one.  I fucking hate this car sometimes.  Guess I'm going to remake that bracket, because even though it'll take 2 minutes and $0.50 to repair, it's sure as hell really annoying to have this as a recurring issue.  

Wait - you mean the M7 bolt at the rear of the trans bracket into the casing split? What grade bolt did you use and what length? Did you helicoil/ timesert the threads in the inner case? I had trouble originally (2008) because the bolt I used didn't go all the way through the rear casing, and worked lose, allowing excess load to occur. Can you elaborate? If there is an issue with the bracket I made, I need to fix it

12 hours ago, Nickbelmonte said:

Any chance you have a forge cbv for sale?

Lol, no. Check in the For Sale or post in the Wanted section. It's been years since I used a small enough turbo that would use one of those...

58 minutes ago, DutchCanadian said:

Just tried to send you a PM joe it doesn't work, I just signed up at swedespeed, I think you are on that site as well can I pm you there?

Message me on FB. My name is Hussein Holland

Can't edit signatures or delete images stored. Is this part of the ongoing fix?

Nice pics!

That certainly looks better - it definitely looked restricted by the narrower previous slots.

Nice work! You need to fix the links to a bunch of the earlier pics, they're not showing up.

750cc is a little overkill, unless you're planning on a larger the Volvo family turbo to go with?

3 hours ago, fyrken said:

We use that very plenum on a 721 whp S40 T4, but we increased the volume when having the inlet in the bottom. Works very well. 

Makes sense, since that is designed for only 1.8l displacement. I went for over displacement volume with mine. 

4 hours ago, VulvaS40T4 said:

I have stock 31mm / 27mm valves and ported exhaust and intake side of head. Also trimmed valve guides and valve jobs done with round seats on valves. So nothing special. Intake side off head could be ported more but no need for now. :)

Ah, Ok. When you said there was no need for reshaping the flange ports, I was assuming that didn't mean the throats in the head hadn't been trimmed back for better flow. What do you mean by round seats on valves? You don't use the traditional 3 to 5 angle cuts on the backside of the valve for flow? 

8 hours ago, VulvaS40T4 said:

Runners are total 10" from intake valve to plenium. Just runners from intake manifold flange are 6.5". Optimum length would be 12" from intake valve on my engine but space wont allow it.

Runner size is now optimal and also shape is okay now so im hoping to get 190hp flow with intake manifold on cylinder head. Cylinder head alone flows 204hp. :)

 

What did you do in terms of head work? Do you use larger valves? Do you port the intake runner / trim valve guide intrusion? I know you mentioned higher lift / longer duration cams.

5 hours ago, VulvaS40T4 said:

Restriction point of the flow was not in cylinder head port or intake manifold flange so no need to do anything to those. :) My cylinder head flows with 11mm lift 204hp (4cyl) / 255hp (5cyl) so its plenty. ;)

I will now flow test my modified intake manifold with cylinderhead and also stock volvo intake manifold with cylinder head. Its hole package flow what counts. ;)

Nice. Great that you can flow test to gauge actual performance. What difference do you anticipate from the design change, or was it mostly to increase ID?

18 minutes ago, Martijn_B said:

How long do your runners measure?

Looks close 6" from flange to plenum to me... lets see what he says :)

And to you & your family!

Nice diffuser plenum! :)

Why not open up the flange & intake ports like the RN heads?