lookforjoe

I would never consider cutting a hole in my car, especially right underneath the latch for the rear seats.

Too each his own - hinging the cover is sound enough. After cutting the holes in the hood, cutting tub access holes was a no-brainer

The odds of the rear seat cushion submarining in a collision are slim to none, IMO.

Great news!

Can't really tell from that pic if the stack height of the PP is correct. The PN on the package is correct, but that doesn't mean much. Did you compare your original clutch parts with the Spec parts at any point? Thing is, a very small height discrepancy is all it takes for the clutch not to function.

This is the DMF Spec PP (on SMF intended for DMF clutch) - yours doesn't really look any deeper, and the SMF version should be obviously deeper...

total stack height, you can see how shallow the DMF PP is from this angle

N

I think the shop technician is pretty pissed at me, and he says the newer style throwout bearing doesn't have enough throw to engage the pressure plate fingers. I

This will happen if they installed the post vin break clutch & PP with the SMF. The stack height is all wrong!!!

Slaves, master variations have NO bearing on this.

They need to install the SMF PP & disc, done.

This is true... as I had to cut the floor on my 98 in order to replace it in a parking lot. However, I feel if done right, it's not so bad.

I agree. Makes no sense to go to all that work dropping the tank for this crap when you can make nice access panels in very little time. I would strongly recommend hinged covers, as the rear seat pads do sit in that outer perch. It's not hard to snake new sheathed plastic lines in over top without dropping anything, that's what I did, moving to 12mm line for my delivery upgrade setup.

If you are using a FPR similar to mine within a 'close' distance to the rail you don't need a damper. The Aeromotive has one built in.

Are you also using the Aeromotive 13129?

Hello Hussein,

I see you have managed to log AFR by connecting the AEM UEGO to the ECU.

I

Thank you !

My ADX has the rear O2 channel set for WB02 input, with conversion factor for AEM WBO2 1-5v input.

I can give you access to that from my Dropbox later. EDIT: Sent you a link via PM. It is actually available on the M4.4Wikia here.

If you're using the AEM, you take the white signal output from the controller and feed it into the rear 02 signal. You need to disconnect the rear 02 or there will be problems. All US Market cars also have two O2 sensors as delivered.

What I was proposing wouldn't allow you to tune maps over 7650, but it would allow you to datalog and have a RPM limiter higher than 7650.

Now, that would be very nice

At this point in not concerned about trying to get the EMS to utilize rpm scaling over 7650, Aaron and others already pointed out the futility of that. I just want to be logging actual rpm over 7650, hence the modifier for the log box :)

If you implemented wideband O2 AFR control (like Piet figured out) you could eliminate your front O2 sensor and re-use the signal pin as an extra ADC (datalogging channel). You could then run the tach signal to the newly available channel and change the formula for front O2 voltage in TP. You could also have some custom logic that implemented the rev-limit for RPMs over 7650.

I think that the tach output is 12v, so it might not work. I'll do some more research.

I will be using Piet's AFR control - I was waiting until the breakup issue was resolved & I had a stable running situation

I have one of Maarten's LogBox's ready & waiting to go in

with a modifier for tach input

For other's wanting to do that for registering actual rpm over 7650 in TunerPro - do you think the O2 channel would accept the rpm signal without damage to the ECU?

I'm most curious about your last statement -

Progress is looking good!

Quick question, i know the x70 tach goes up to 8000 rpm on the rpm scale. M44 can only go up to 7650rpm max, When you rev to 8000 rpm+ does the tach actually go to 8000+ or does it stop at 7500ish?

Im curious if the CPU drives the tach or if there is some hard logic that converts the crank signal to the cluster pulse.

The tach will go over 8K,

I used the tach feed signal for logging via Innovate Logworks: it will record actual rpm as high as I've gone with it...

For logging, I'm going to use a output signal to my logbox, instead of the ECU signal used in TunerPro

After trying a number of things to deal with the breakup around peak torque, I switched back to the Bosch Coilpacks & dwell tables. All breakup went away. So, dwell settings for the GM coils need tweaking. Thankfully, Piet will help me out there when he has time

Log with Bosch coils, @26psi. No more lapses in the logs, with the ThinkPad from Aaron

EDIT : ( on 2/28) Installed new FR7DPP+ plugs @ (stock) .030" gap, and did compression test at the same time. Warm engine, throttle wide open:

#1: 190 #2: 190 #3: 185 #4: 185 #5: 185 (approx 35K on motor)

Load progresses nicely (instead of maxing out @ 20% throttle, as it does with standard MAF curve [4" scalar]), and maxes out around 6K, so I may try an earlier curve revision to push that a little higher. 90-130 (WOT area) 7.56sec. Uphill pull.



minor tweaks after the log to deal with any areas over 12.5 AFR, and dropped the WOT values up top where it was 11.5 ish

Nice! I like your valve seal replacement setup! What pressure did you have to maintain to keep the valves from dropping?

What cam timing specs did you get from Trent/his Tuner? Are they set by Lift like Enem Cams?

That rail appears to be an early M4.3 rail, from pre '95. Are you sure that the M4.4, rail at firewall setup has the same internal construction?

I was trying to find a pic of my M4.4 ('98) rail - I don't believe it has the small cross section, in fact I'm pretty sure it doesn't - otherwise I would have had to start with an ME&7 rail, & deal with the extra port, which I did not do.

The second rail I made (but didn't use due to poor welds on my part) was ME7 base, and I was going to use 2 pulse dampers to deal with the extra port

I used 3/8" NPT female fitting welded to the rail, with a NPT-to-AN-08 male/male fitting on the one in the car now

New wires finally came. All 5 measure between 2.3 - 3K ohms, so that presumably must be the normal value. Hopefully the excessive resistance didn't damage the new coil packs - I did only drive about 200 (gentle) miles this past week.

Did a quick pull, and it feels cleaner. I'll know tomorrow when I get a chance to be a little more agressive

Nice selection of coils, one of my tuners favorites!

Engine looks awesome H!

Thanks, Trent.

Unfortunately I've been having blowout/breakup at higher rpm's/load - I thought it was because I was using used coils, however, The Kingsborne wires didn't check out resistance wise. Only two of them had normal resistance (around 300ohms, 3.5" length) the other three are closer to 2M ohms(!)

examples:

Have to assume this is causing a significant issue. Kingsborne has a replacement set on the way to me.

Which engine torque bushing do you have? I have the ipd one and it seems like it has loosened up.

I bought it over 7 years ago from WorldPac (thru a wholesale account I use) - I don't remember the brand. I do recall that after that I couldn't locate any more red ones, as several people asked for it.

The solenoid valve doesn't occupy much space. Almost seems silly to remove it and replace it with a resistor that's almost as big....

Mainly I did it back then so that it wouldn't look like there was something disconnected for NY inspection purposes - that hardly matters anymore

New D585 Coils arrived just now - treating my baby to new ones now I know it all works

should be warm enough (30's) tomorrow to install them

Must be a high wattage resistor - not your standard low watt style

Minor futzing in this weather - too cold to stay outdoors for long.

Replaced PS reservoir with 05- version, doesn't bloat like earlier version

rotate existing hose 90º & cut 1/4" off to fit to 90º offset of newer reservoir - that hose is about $70 for newer style.

bloated old style - this is only 2 years old, also

made a airbag bypass for the pass dash bag.

removing that unwanted weight has stopped my dash creaking for now - in the good weather I'll pull the dash & repair the tabs.

no codes

Really Nice Work and excellent documentation!

Couple of questions -

Did you use regular submersible fuel line to replace the stock nipple/line seal? I'm not sure that the feeder nipple is actually a significant concern, given I made 450AWHP using all stock lines with the DW300 pump. It certainly can't hurt since you are using one pump to feed the rail.

I also considered placing the FPR by the firewall, however I was concerned about the heat soak off the exhaust. Significant issue with headers, not quite so bad with a stock manifold. With a larger turbo & 3" exhaust, yours may still end up being a little too close. You may want to add an additional heat shield?

You will be using a AN06 radius elbow fitting on the fuel rail instead of a 90º degree, I presume?

How did you find that the Corvette shocks were similar dimensions to begin with?

Looking forward to more updates.

More revisons. This pull has the time anomaly at the end. Normally I try to edit the logs to 100rpm intervals - except when looking for small instances of rich / lean that reoccur over a range of gears/ load areas. The logging records 60 frames a second - sample 1706/ 90.402 sample 1768 / 91.409

but then, sample 1777 - 1778 jumps 2,3sec. I'm hoping this goes away with the new (to me) laptop I'm getting

3rd gear gradual acceleration, undulating road - which caused wheelspin/upsets in the load up top

Anyway, some revisions to the fueling after a pull earlier today

Revisions after this pull

Nice!

So the Cat Cams are for the N head?

What about your intake manifold? That will be the next thing you'll need to revise.....

I'm working on that.

Revised MAF table, so more VE/timing revisions - too rich overall now, but better progression into full load range.

reductions yesterday:

Log this morning. Very rich still, however it's pretty uniformly spread. Slow. No knock, so if it's still fat after this, I'll add more timing up top.

Pulled fuel back out, added a touch timing, reduced WOT table more