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lookforjoe

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Posts posted by lookforjoe

  1. A few updates.

    Fuel system upgrades were finished a couple of months ago.

    AN-08 Fuel inlet to rail

    4D120728-8058-4792-8B4F-C890D8C78E62_zps

    Left sender access

    V70XR_0049.jpg

     

    V70XR_0056.jpg

    All lines uprated to 12mm. All fittings on senders now 3/8", with 3/8" tubing replacing stock 5/16"

    V70-XR-0198.jpg

    V70-XR-0104.jpg

    SS LGSpeed Header to replace the mild steel version that rotted out at the collector

     

    V70XR_0053.jpg

     

    Revised SS DP to go with

    IMG-4991-zps39df189c.jpg

    SS intermediate section with Magnaflow 14419 resonator

    1C548C55-84F4-4AED-B0A7-D91C24A50092_zps

    I will redo the tail section in mandrel bend SS when I replace the Magnaflow 14834's with the longer body (quieter) Magnaflows. No I have the TIG, I can do it all myself.

    Now running onboard COP instead of TTCOP - I added the connector for TTCOP inside the ECU, so I can switch if needed.

    V70-XR-0096.jpg

    A friend gave me this light table, which made soldering the resistors much easier

    A3766EEA-7476-4FBD-BA64-DB874D24A515_zps

    Once I have the confirmed all my coil pack issues are behind me, I will get back to the dyno

    CEIKA rear BBK finally installed. 330mm, 6 piston calipers.

    BEBDB7C4-0F35-4477-9432-C407D187B921_zps

    7613E576-3F23-4F78-A3D6-88942CAB91CF_zps

    GM D585 Coil packs going in next

    A6040F16-26C0-4A6D-879B-24D3BC26DF6D_zps

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  2. Color shift after a few WOT pulls

    58FA65E8-C02F-4CC1-A439-3566532282E6_zps

    Finally running onboard COP, thank avinitlarge for catching my mistake on the 47k ohm resistors, and to Piet for helping with the conversion of my earlier bin, and to Aaron for his work on developing the COP functionality :)

    6D06D209-56C0-404A-9EB5-005917EE20AD_zps

    Curious to see if this affects my burning coil packs, and whether COP related codes will be set - never had a single CEL for cylinder blowout due to coil failure with TTCOP, as many times as it happened.

    • Upvote 1
  3. Checking if your O2 is operational is extremely easy using tunerpro.

    Compare you nominal air consumption at idle to your old logs, see if it matches and if it doesn't, you know you have an air leak.

    That would work if it would have idled...

    I swapped out the O2 for a Walker I had, until the Bosch arrives. Reset the ECU, and all is well.

    I'm still killing Bosch coil packs -(with TTCOP). I did a hard pull up a local steep hill during my preliminary check out, and it started breaking up. Swapped out the coil packs for another 5 used ones, and problem fixed. I'll have to swap them back one at a time to find the actual dead one(s).

    Now its all OK, Ill move ahead with the GM coils install.

    Pretty Headers

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  4. Is your turbo ball bearing or journal bearing version?

    Mine is BB.

    Car is all back together & running, but now it doesn't want to idle - AFR's go lean & it stalls out on decel/idle rpm. Have to check over a few things. I'm going to swap out the O2 - I didn't have a new Bosch one on hand - perhaps it was damaged from the heating required to remove it from the old DP. Engine idled fine prior to the work, so I think it's either that or a fitting/hose that I didn't recheck.

  5. What are you using for a welder, looking good.

    Of course, the return of the yellow pad is welcome.

    Bought a TIG from Eastwood a couple of years ago. Primarily so I could do aluminum work. SS is easy by comparison - however the speed shop guy said I still used too much current - the weld should be more a pretty rainbow hue rather than the gray I have. That's OK, Practice makes Progress :)

    Kingsborne modified wire set came today

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    Same price as the standard dimension wire set for an 850, in 8mm w/LS2 boots with 3.5" open wire length. Judging that off Trent's pic.

    Oil feed line also arrived with a new 4-an - 1/8" NPT straight adaptor to go into the Precision supplied restrictor seat. 27" length line, listing was for Mazda installation to get the banjo end. edit: wrong size banjo - reused the -4AN to M14(?) that I already had from prior installation. Feed hose was also approx 24". , so a little extra length to deal with routing away from the headers and hotside.

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  6. Waiting for oil feed line to come in.

    I decided to work on a couple of details to make header removal a little less painful. The main problem (as far as the flange to head fitment goes) is that there is no clearance to fit the upper nuts and washers on 3,4,5 due to the runner offset. The only way is to pull the header away from the head to gain clearance. That is a problem as the turbo flange has almost no firewall clearance even when bolted tight to the head

    [

    7993208F-F381-4728-B3E1-8A26CF28EFCE_zps

    After dicking around with the old header on a spare head, it seems the easiest solution is to shorten those three studs by about 4 threads

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    Now the flange lock nut can be placed with the header up against the head.

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    I ground down the sides of a good 13mm wrench, and chamfered the top / bottom so that it would squeeze in place over the nut

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    Still a pain, but now more tolerable since 18ftlbs can easily be achieved with a normal length wrench such as this.

    This is the intermediate pipe I reworked in SS. Close fit all around, but no contact with tunnel

    1C548C55-84F4-4AED-B0A7-D91C24A50092_zps

    • Upvote 2
  7. Too bad you couldn't move or angle the wg dump so it's not dumping directly after the turbine. Without extending the WG out further, it looks almost unavoidable.

    Fab work looks good though :) Were you able to get a brace in there?

    Yes - that's why on the old header I added a longer extension for the WG - however, that was one of the points that cracked, so the stress must increase the further off you hang it. This one also has a brace to the flange, even though its short. I did consider trying to divert it out & around, but there's not enough free space. It would have also meant a DP that cannot be removed without dropping the subframe like my old one.

    I'm building an adjustable tension support that will push up under the hotside using valve springs gauged to support the specific weight of the turbo - my speed shop guy has done this for other setups, in my case I have the angle drive conveniently provided a shelf.

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  8. Finished up the DP, swapped over the O2 sensors (had to repair the threads after pulling them from the old DP),

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    fabricated a new intermediate pipe with the Magnaflow Resonator. Got everything buttoned up, started it up & found the oil pressure feed line is leaking at the elbow where it attaches to the turbo. Have to order a new flex line. PITA is that the turbo has to be dropped to access the fitting. :(

  9. Removed the SS braiding layer from the coupler - with that, the coupler fits between the firewall & swaybar.

    IMG_4983_zpsd493dc58.jpg

    clearance going down

    IMG_4984_zpsc131242a.jpg

    IMG_4985_zps52c0171c.jpg

    IMG_4986_zps1ae7e000.jpg

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    Removed the header. turbo & DP so I can now fabricate the coupler for the WG dump

    IMG_4991_zps39df189c.jpg

    no way to fit a flex coupler unless I remove the braiding & cut it down to just a few inches

    IMG_4990_zpse908f5ee.jpg

    May just go with a rigid junction

    IMG_4988_zps50fdfd46.jpg

    Have to weld the O2 bungs in place also, and redo the straight pipe back to the resonator in SS pipe also.

    • Upvote 2
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