lookforjoe

Probably just as well. Those poly bushes looked like absolute crap. Surprised your tires weren't buggered from all that caster/camber change....

The engine will be mated to an M66. Received a message from a friend pointing me to a slightly used Quaife diff offered on a Dutch market place. Made a low offer and seller agreed

Received the part last week,

Looks new on the outside. Can't see any defects. Hope it will be 100%.

Want to swap the 2.0T5/M56 combo for this combo soon. Will run M4.3 with the K24 running at roughly 15 psi. Should make nice power.

Nice!

The important bit as you know is on the other side, not shown in the pic - it has the splines for the BG? Or is this meant for a FWD M66?

Removed .75 degree in the 100% load cells and dropped the top two cells a couple of degrees. No knock @24.4 psi in 3rd, 4th or 5th, so far

EDIT: Not logging boost, so ignore boost gauge

4th

5th

3rd

Log from today

No knock in 4th, but knock in 5th. BITS went to 163 (Thanks for that info, Matt) @ 72:848 - 2.25º of pull at that instant. ZWBEG is requested timing, next column is actual. Still much better than previously, I've been adding more fuel to the areas immediately before it demonstrates knock.

Your ignition timing is pretty high on those points where it knocks. 15-20degrees in there. I remember with my car and gasoline it was very knock limited on 5500-6500rpm areas with 2.0bar boost 460hp. I had to run something like 6-10 degrees timing on there and low 11afr ratios.

Try lower you ignition timing.

The problem I've had in the past is running less timing & more boost doesn't equate to better street performance. Anything less than 10º wasn't good.

What turbo were you running when you had to run 2bar to make 460HP? I only needed 21psi/1.45bar to make 450AWHP. Do you have sample timing that you have run for full load? What is your rev limit?

I will try lowering timing a little, however it pulls harder with more timing. Finding the bleeding edge of timing/knock is going to be the challenge

Fuel increase from gasoline to e85 is about 30%. You should only use e85 on high boost applications.

I'm unlikely to run even 2 bar. With 93ron, and my current setup, every pound of boost increase = about 15AWHP increase, based on the dyno logs from last year. I want to dyno this fall once I get the knock sorted out at the current 24.5psi/1.69bar.

What material was that disc? Looks like you need something more substantial in terms of friction material. The Spec discs rated for high output are not fiber-based. Horrible for DD in town driving though.

My AP disc looks like it may have organic/fiber content, however

I love how at 22psi and 7020RPMs your fuel injectors are only at 67% DC.

Why is it that you don't want to try out E85, is it because there is no stations close by?

I'm not logging boost yet - that gauge is still connected to the tank pressure sensor EVAP circuit. In one of my earlier screenshots it shows 27psi.. I have is set to max 24.4psi with the Greddy OLED. My Innovate logging setup doesn't work with the ECU's flashed via TunerPro - I've tried several times to connect with no luck at all. I'm going to go a different route for logging most all my previous parameters.

Increasing or rather stabilizing the volume at higher loads with the dual pumps & larger lines must have helped, since the IDC's are lower now at higher boost and increased fueling levels.

There are few E85 stations, but one of them is not that far away, when I checked last year.

Has a relatively cut & dry formula been established for the required fueling increase? My recollection is that it was about 33%?

Log from today - revised fueling, still a little knock on cyl#4 - but no actual timing pull - which is the part I don't quite understand. Don't see how lowering requested timing would be helpful if it's not pulling timing as it is.

The Fuelab filter helps maintain rest pressure for a couple hours, then it still drops off, so for cold starts I still have to prime system. I'll have to query AEM on the FPR. Perhaps it cannot hold rest pressure .

10/05 EDIT: Fuelabs stated that their FPR's have the same seat design as AEM, so unlikely to maintain rest pressure any longer than the AEM.

Got issues with the VAG-COM device - finally got it to connect today, so I was able to capture a log this afternoon.

AFR's are better with the changes I made, but still have knock. So, I'll have to pull a little timing next. What's odd is that in this target load cell, requested timing was 17.25ºBTDC, so even though there is knock, it's adding timing here.

Adding a little more fuel in these areas

Installed the fuelabs filter this evening, so no more priming the system for starting.

Raised the boost to 24psi today - had an hour or so drive home down a nice sweeping highway, so I took advantage of that. In previous dyno testing every psi increase in boost translated into 15AWHP increase - I had been running 21.7 max with previous fueling setup to limit lean out due to volume drop off.

I logged a few short pulls, didn't sustain it over time, since I had no idea whether the fueling was appropriate - turns out it was definitely lean(!!), and some knock ensued. I have adjusted the VE & WOT maps, so see how that goes on the next pull.

Knock, Knock

affected cells, red highlights indicate increased cell values to compensate for the now lean AFR's at 24psi boost

Had a couple of minor issues - strut mount bearing came apart on the driver's side - made a horrible clicking/clunking. OBDII port & AC diagnostics died a few times - blowing fuse #5. I found the eBrake pivot rod circlips let loose & the lever was lifting too far & pinched a wire in the connector harness.

With those out of the way, I raised the boost just a couple psi & did some careful pulls. Found some part load lean areas in the VE map that needed tweaking.

Now I have a little knock in 3rd gear, for the most part requested timing still aligns with actual, which seems odd. Cyl#1 has one of the stock coils, that I'm running until the two replacement BoschMotorSport coils come back. Not going to worry about a degree of two of knock until I get that other coil back in place to see if that makes a difference.

System voltage doesn't drop below 13v with the larger alt pulley.

After looking at the log, I raised the cell value that corresponds with the 13.1 AFR @ 12:481 to bring it closer to 12.5 at that load point.

AFR's are kind of rich, but since I want to raise the boost a couple more PSI, I'm going to leave that as is. This is probably due to the fact I have been tuning with dropping volume up top with the previous single DW300 setup.

Not in 4th

EDIT: Couple of things; I need to rubber >mount the surge tank , as although the 044 pumps are pretty quiet, I can still hear them with the tank hard mounted to the floor pan. Also ordered a Fuelab 85811-1 filter with integrated check valve (to replace the billet Summit filter I had installed)- it's rated for 2000HP/200GPH, so no flow restriction problems - I removed the stock Bosch pump check valves because I couldn't find an adaptor to go from them to the AN -8 line fittings, and they look like a flow restriction to me.

Been getting the X1/9 run in. Still waiting for the Fuellabs filter/check valve.

I've been struggling with an ongoing issue that started in the late spring - it started as an intermittent 'stutter' in the part throttle-high load range, which from me is 3600-4600 range. After doing the fuel pump mods, it became a constant problem where I could not go over 14 psi boost no matter what, with terrible 'stutter'. I confirmed fuel pressure stability, waste gate operation, intake side integrity, etc. AFR's were not out of line, timing values also.

After checking many things, I tried just putting in new Bosch DPP fine wire plugs, with a smaller gap of .026" - this immediately improved the drivability. That indicated to me that the problem is with one or more of the Coils, since I have always been able to run at least the stock plug gap of .030". I swapped all the coil packs out with the stock Bosch units in place of the Bosch MotorSport units, and my normal driving & boost is back with no stutter. I bought the MotorSport coils just under a year ago from ARD, and they said they will warranty any defective coils, so I just have to put them back one at a time until the stutter returns.

Now that that issue is being resolved, I can raise the boost & get a dyno session booked this fall

Looking Very Good!!!

Nice Find!!

They're OEM bolts. The bracket is slightly recessed into the spindle so there is plenty of thread. I'll get better pics today as I start putting the front end together.

Ah - I see - they reduced the thickness of the hub by the thickness of the bracket? Certainly makes sense if that creates the correct offset for the caliper/rotor orientation.

Nice solution.

So they cut off all the casting that previously contained the caliper mount ears and the bump stop? Looks like clean work from the back - do you have a pic of the outer view?

Looks like the new brackets are secured with the bearing hub. Did you source similar grade longer bolts, or did they provide them? They look like the stock design in the pic.

Very Nice!!

What bracket are you using to mount the front R calipers? If possible can you please post pics?

He posted a pic back up the page

Nice work!

If the equalizing tube (cam vent) is up top, what are the two additional floor vents for? I presume the large one is your VTA/draft tube, what is the other drain for?

Ok. Just your area for no junkyard access or all of NY state?

Don't know about upstate. We are downstate, only 15 miles or so north of Manhattan. There are still a couple of auto recyclers in my county and others across the river, but nothing here or in neighboring New Jersey townships that allows public access anymore. They just recycle the scrap metal, no parts sales. Pretty much when the EPA came around & shut down many gas stations due to leaking tanks back in the 80's, they also went after all the JY's at the same time. I used to enjoy just walking through to look at the old cars you just don't see anymore.

H, I may have a cam gear cover in the garage if you don't get to a JY. I'll check.

Edit: I do have a RN gear cover, pm me if you would like it.

Thanks for the offer - I did find one cheap on eBay. There is no such thing as JY access around here, been that way since the late 80's - the EPA took care of that .

Mine is in here somewhere,

To much CY's..

Holy Cow. That's many 850's in one spot, never mind that there are only green estates & yellows

Drilled & tapped the earlier rail for an AN-8 o 3/8NPT fitting. It's a little tight around the coolant hose, but not rubbing. Set the fuel pressure to 3.5bar (51psi) with vacuum disconnected.



Left side access flap in place, butyl added from the outside of opening to seal the flap when closed



ready for inner seal

Removed fuel lines from the tank forward. Old lines over the tank were cut back, I'm not going to worry about extracting the remnants. Filter removed from top of subframe. Vacuum port for FPR on intake pipe capped, main vacuum rerouted to AEM FPR.

All back together. Now I need a virgin cam gear cover

.

EDIT: Couple of things; I need to rubber >mount the surge tank , as although the 044 pumps are pretty quiet, I can still hear them with the tank hard mounted to the floor pan. Also ordered a Fuelab 85811-1 filter with integrated check valve (to replace the billet Summit filter I had installed)- it's rated for 2000HP/200GPH, so no flow restriction problems - I removed the stock Bosch pump check valves because I couldn't find an adaptor to go from them to the AN -8 line fittings, and they look like a flow restriction to me.

Primed the surge tank to confirm my in tank pump wiring is correct. The DW300 pushed fuel to the AEM FPR up front in just a few cycles of the key. Once the surge tank was full, I hooked up the Bosch pumps & installed the modified rail with AN8 inlet. Finished making the braided flex hose once I had the precise hose routing. Fitting the Straight fitting (FRA-680108-BL) to the SS braided PTFE (Fragola 603008) hose was a real bitch - I don't recall having such a hard time with the elbow end.

Problem is, the rail I made to replace the earlier version leaks . I re-welded an obvious piss-hole, only to find it sprung another leak. So, I have to adapt my earlier rail & add a AN-8 bung to the inlet - the reason I didn't do that in the first place is the interference with the T/stat housing & hose. The later rail has the inlet raised.

(pic from the spring)

Finally have the X1/9 back on the road, running LH2.2 from a 240. Next I'll build an EZK117 system for it.

so I spent today working on the fuel delivery mods.

Cut an accèss panel out on the left side

Pulled the existing senders, cleaned up, hinged & painted the left access panel

transferred the pump & level sensors to the ones I modded with 3/8 feed & return lines with quick release fittings

Installed a new 10mm ID crossover pipe with 3/8 quick release fittings, above the gas tank & subframe, installed both senders with new seal rings. Access panel is sealed with butyl (dynamat strips).

Wiring

Tomorrow I have to install the modded fuel rail, make the stainless braided fuel feed from the AEM FPR to the rail, set the pressure to 3.5bar, and check the system for leaks. Then I'll cut out all the old lines. The adjustable FPR I'm currently using will go into the X1/9, so I can tweak that as well.