lookforjoe

Hmm. We have a registration sticker attached to the windshield. The plate info & vehicle info is all on that sticker. If someone stole our plates, it would be obvious to the courts that the owner was not the speeder, etc., since the plates wouldn't match the vehicle. You don't have something similar?

Every single time I've had the fan come on with the key in run position, it's been a dead/dying ECU. That (high cooling fan run) seems the default when something fails.

Have you tried plugging in an alternative ECU, now the component connectors are properly arranged?

Nice Work!

I enjoyed Guardians Of The Galaxy - I like the old sound track.

"License plates themselves are registered in the Netherlands to prevent duplication" what does that mean??? People will make illegal copies of your plate?

Yes it will be both. Extra oil drain which works also as a breather. There will be also new aluminium 1.5liter breather box to stock place, but that later. Breathing system is okay with s60r box to 0-280km/h acceleration and after 7000rpm on 5.gear breathing system is pushing little bit of oil out so thats why improvements are required.

If it's going to be for drain back, it really needs to be below the level of the oil, that's why the stock one goes to the bottom of the oil pan - to prevent any potential CC pressure from inhibiting drain back.... Have you tested a drain port in this location previously?

Revising the breather system, or adding an additional vent?

Alternator speed will be reduced to 80% of the original speed. At 8krpm with the new pulley, the alt will be spinning the same speed as it was with the old pulley and the engine running at 6,400rpm.

That's the number Piet came up with - which is perfect, since 6,4K is about where it dropped off below 13V

And running!

With a minor problem, alternator isn't working..

Trigger wire broken?

Forgot to add the Aerocatch Hood latches

modified stock brackets for the pins

Waiting for the Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper/windage tray kit.

Cieka 6pot rear brakes with integral eBrake setup ordered after much back & forth to determine if it will clear with the limited clearance.

X1/9 hopefully back on the road soon, so I can then take the wagon apart to finish the fuel delivery upgrades.

AC on the x1/9?

yeah - it has factory AC that works - it's still nice to use it on long drives with the roof off

belt routing

Waiting for the crank scraper/windage tray kit.

Bought, fixed & sold an '02 S40 with only 100k on it, and still working on getting the X1/9 back on the road. Installing LH2.2 with Volvo/Saab components

5rib serpentine belt conversion, using mostly Volvo parts

Spent a couple days modding a pair of ECU's for removable chip /ostrich2 setups, with onboard COP thanks to Piet & Aaron. My eyesight is really not great for this sort of small work anymore

Had to add a couple bridge wires on one board, due to my attempt to cut the chip off with a scalpel vs. dremel on that board - damaged the circuit in two places. Added wiring for TTCOP connection as well, since I need to work out the software side of onboard COP in TunerPro.

using the COP bridge I had added for the VEMS install to switch between TTCOP and onboard COP

Also installed a Volvo ECU fan (8666595) while I was in there. Powered from the Cooling fan circuit, so it turns on with the cooling fan @ 83ºC engine temp

Good news!

I forgot to remove the foam/paper padding that was stuffed in my compressor outlet when I first installed the 6262bb...

Are you running an upgraded alt? I've been toying with the idea of getting a newer higher output alt, out of the later p2 cars, or seeing if there was a way of adjusting the voltage reg (like the older style alt. with the external reg.)... In my 245 I had one that I set to 14.7v.

I have a custom reverse rotation (necessary due to the hybrid ancillary setup I run with the RN motor) 180amp output version built by Steve's (GhostShadow) former supplier.

Bolts are ordered.

I ordered a larger OD serpentine alternator pulley to drop the (alternator) rpms - over 6,6K output voltage progressively drops to around 13v by 8K rpm. The alternators are obviously not'geared' to run over 6,6K rpm. My base idle is higher than stock (975 vs. 850), not that that should be an issue, I see 13.8-14v at idle. I couldn't find a Bosch spec pulley, so I went with a aluminum GM application pulley from Summit, that I will have re-bored from 16.3mm to 17mm ID to suit the Bosch application

I'm horrible at math. Can anyone help me figure out what the % drop or change in alternator RPM would be going from a stock 56mm OD pulley, to a 70mm OD pulley? Basically 1/2" increase in diameter.

Hussein:

My conclusion, they changed the part number at least twice, so look for any one of the following 3 part numbers:

1256343 31258099 31368044

Discount Volvo Parts says that 31368044 is the latest, and 1256343 and 31258099 were superceded.

Thanks Al!

I couldn't find a supercession, and although Tasca lists it, I assumed that they just still have the old number in their parts system.

I went to give you a plus+, and hit the Neg by accident - I hope someone can rectify that, sorry!

EDIT: ordered the bolts from my local dealer (7/21/14), $6 a piece.

What's the lead time?

Also, how much did it cost? If you don't want to post it, could you PM me?

PM sent.

Slight problem - this requires dropping the crank TTY bolts (>1256343 according to Al) Volvo doesn't list those as available, and none of the parts fiche (example) indicate any part number at all for what is clearly the TTY bolt.

Going to install a Ishihara-Johnson Windage & Crank scraper setup, Teflon version.

Like this, but 5 cyl version. Built to order, so hopefully I'll have it to install before I have to go back to work in Sept.

If I remember correctly, Hussein went through a time where he was going to sell the XR.

Look where he's at now, think on it and please keep the wagon.

Yeah, After I nearly killed myself with it Her name is Christine......

Why not do the pan orings, could be just that....

The brakes on my wife's old 2001 S40 definitely were much better than the 850/V70 stock - but I'd be leery of trussing them for repeated high speed heavy braking!

Very nice!

What brakes and suspension setup do you have to handle that?

Nice that you have a mission to save a T5

What's this talk of getting old?? My kids are 27 and 23, I don't consider myself old at all....

Nice work!

Was your battery leaking? Odd that the subframe has rust over on the driver's side.

I cant describe how well this combo works. I mean from a race standpoint...wow, perfect. For the daily driver, not so fun. I bought an organic lined disc from Clutchnet and am going to replace the 6 button. I will keep the pressure plate. It feels better now. I'll be selling the 6 button with an R pressure plate soon. I am sure someone out there will want this extra grip.

The trans clattered when the clutch was out. The bearing tolerances are off. I am taking it to a shop to have it shimmed. Taking this opportunity to swap the disc.

Which bearing(s) did you replace? Diff carrier, or one of the gear shafts? Were they direct replacement bearings or something else? I would imagine it is difficult to measure end float, given the case design...

FWIW, I've used my share of MTL and MT-90 in brass and bronze loaded transmissions before.

Lovely stuff.

Yeah, it's the ShockProof HD specifically that UK members have said was a problem, in the M56's.

Forgot to ask what head gasket you are using, and stock head bolts or ARP studs? What size piping and IC are you running?

Impressive that it all holds up nicely with that level of positive pressure.

The trans clattered when the clutch was out. The bearing tolerances are off. I am taking it to a shop to have it shimmed. Taking this opportunity to swap the disc.

These trans will always rattle with the clutch disengaged with an aftermarket setup, esp unsprung disc. I use Redline ShockProofHD gear oil, which helps immensely, but the M66 has no brass synchro components that will get eaten by this oil. Perhaps there is an alternative gear oil you can use.