lookforjoe

I've decided that I'm going to go with forged rods and glycol sputtered bearings. To any Volvo parts gurus out there, can you determine the rod length from the engine serial?

The parts catalog (use C70 to look up, as it still had 2.3L, catalog page usually is the same however) only lists the con rod by year - 2002 on is listed as the change, but it also says B5234Tx & B5244Tx - I didn't think the 2.4 had the 147mm rods...

Wrote a frickin paragraph about this & it went away when I switched to PB on my iPhone $&@$)(;34&,|>£{!!!!

Anyway, used senders and lines arrived -from a CA R to use fittings for my modified setup. Was also curious exactly what the left sender was comprised of, I've not had one out before, and wasn't about to remove mine if not 100% a necessity. I wasn't sure if the stock return elbow would fit in the 10mm return line. I cut them off the non-rusty lines and it does just fine. So, I can use one if those on my new return from the surge tank, and then I just have to swap out the higher flow main sender I modded, and the fuel dual 044 upgrade will be complete (almost - forgot the fuel rail & braided feed line)

Dang. I saw that on FB, but assumed it was your old motor. This one was stock rods, though, no?

Thanks

I'll have to take a full side view, I don't have one.

Put the deeper front lip back on for Carlisle, and added a silver stripe to accent the base

Thank you.

Worked on the fuel delivery upgrade this week, when it wasn't freezing or snowing out... Today I did some cosmetic work - added vinyl 'carbon' wrap to the ABM taillights, covering the area I had painted black. painted the very top silver to follow the trim line and the vinyl wrap I put on the D pillar last year.

Found a Silver 98 R in the parking lot when we went to the pet supply store today....

Cheaned up the feed and return routing up front and added DEI heat sheild, in addition to the sheild plate I made previously for the FPR





Billet filter access



I'm gonna cut the floor pan on the DS as I did on the PS for sender/line access. Then I can determine how best to deal with the sender fitting. I'm leaning towards braising a 3/8" QC fitting over the stock return fitting on the sender, then I can use the full 3/8" QC fitting instead of splicing the 10mm line to a 5/16" QC . Like this:

At this point, I may wait til after Carlisle for final fitting, so I don't jinx myself

Running the surge tank feed line (10mm, 3/8 QC elbow at sender, AN08 barb at surge tank) and the return (also 10mm) from surge tank to drivers side sending unit. I was able to snake the lines from my sender access over the tank and into the rear cavity over the subframe one at a time, with much silicone spray . Both lines are encased in oil/fuel resistant sleeving.

Pics not in order with text..

Snake return line from pass side over to drivers side, over tank, behind heat shields and tank support brackets.

Just have to figure out what fitting I can get away with on the LS sender - the standard QC elbows have too shallow an offset to clear the sender cap nut.

Next I have to complete the modified sender & DW300 pump transfer from stick sender, install larger (again) fuel rail and fabricate feed line from FPR to rail, wire the relay harness in place, then leak check and hope it's all good - and set regulated pressure :)

Ran the new 12mm lines from the surge tank to the FPR, royal PITA, and I still need to replace the sender with the modified 3/8" outlet one I made, and deal with the return from surge tank to main tank. I've left the original lines intact, since I'm not ready to deal with the next stage yet...

New AN08 feed hose will go something like this...

To my new rail that also has an AN08 fitting

Feed is attached to the filter, accessible through the access panel above. Return I just have to cut & install the AN08 barb fitting like the ones in the first pic

Looking much more professional with the AN swivel fittings over the copper elbows.

How much power should the 2200 kg/h meter correctly?

Yeah, the swivels do look better, but pricey, for sure. Not much of a functional upgrade, really.

Regarding the power level supported, I don't know, Ben. Part of the debate is whether the system pulls back once the MAF is maxxed out - since it appears that fueling and timing are pulled from slightly lower load cells (below max load) once this happens. I don't think that is the whole story as it makes sense that load drops in higher Rpms once you pass peak torque range. In my case I believe this is somewhat over 5,5k rpm. So, once I get some 3rd4th WOT pulls logged, I should be able to see what the reality of the situation is.

I'm still hoping to get the fuel lines plumbed this week, however the weather is not cooperating so far... I wanted to jack the boost before Carlisle :-(

Built a 4" (OD) inlet tract. Got the honeycomb from the eBay vendor after the fact, as he offers the housing $20 under BIN pricing if you bid on the regular auction and wait a week...



Still slowly trying to improve my TIG skills



Which also meant buying a new K&N filter (RF-1015) with 4" ID neck, and additional piping. Also switched to AN10 swivel fittings for my breather lines - finally replacing the 1/2" copper elbows I was using.



With this, I can run a revised MAF table that measures up to 2200 kg/h (600 g/s vs. Stock 231 g/s). Just installed over the weekend, so haven't done any highway WOT pulls to see if & where the MAF maxxes out. Did a low speed WOT in 2nd - didn't go over 1400 kg/h (390 g/s) but I didn't go over 7K rpm either. I revised the gauge scale after this - it was set to only display up to 1500 kg/h



The downside is that the MAF rescaling has re-introduced the warmup rich condition when starting stone cold, so I have to figure out the appropriate tweaks to the MAF table in the warmup voltage range - typically under 1.2v for my setup.

I have two other parts trans. They come in handy.

Nice :-)

Volvo part numbers are typically 7-digits. 1377960 comes up as a 'trailing wheel' about $330.

The FD ratio wouldn't be stamped on an individual gear - it would be on the ring gear if anywhere....

Looks much better than the old cover. Dual exhaust next?

Nice work. That's one heck of a color. What did you mean by green color DOP? That the car was originally titled as green?

Minor stuff.

Converted shifter to late push & rotate style - using C30 M66 leather/aluminum knob

Built 4" OD inlet piping -not ready to switch yet - have to rescale MAF table to use it.

Converted vent fittings from 1/2" copper to Fragola AN10 3000 series reusable. Some left over from when I tried the AN10 turbo drain

If you want to keep the boost in the over 22-23 psi range the 15lb spring makes more sense. You just won't be able to run less than 17 base most likely

what kind of WHP do you think youre running? ive heard 400 whp is about the limit for these motors, but im wondering if that still applies with proper tuning?

What do you mean by these motors ? Stock hardware?

Barrel retaining ears in place

I have a complete swap from 05 s60r , Just got it couple days ago . Cables shifter . Should work on it this week.

I need to finish pickup before Carlisle

Going in the pickup? You're bringing it to Carlisle, I hope?

Did you like my idea then Because I love your idea's. Without them I would be still scratching my head

Yes - I'm still going to add the reinforcement like my other version, however it would probably suffice as it is

Revised cable bracket for RussianR

Virgin $70 bracket from VoVo

After modding for 850/x70 -'00 cables

Gear shift cable bracket cut, straightened and re bent to reset height & offset for early cables

Stud pressed through main body instead of captive nut plate on underside of slider arm

Guide rail to keep slider aligned

Nice.

Your wagon needs dual exhaust & XC rear cover

That lower radiator hose has leaked on the past 2 radiators and past 3 radiator tubes, which included old OEM, new OEM and current silicone tubes. I cleaned the buildup on the outlet thinking that might be it, but it still leaks. Suggestions?

For the heater hoses, it must just be the camera angle. One goes up over the intake and the other under. They have sufficient room to move.

Use a Volvo hose

That heater hose - is it from an NA? it doesn't have the right angle that should be present where it enters the firewall - that's what's throwing me off.

Nice work! Very tidy.

Two observations - that lower rad hose clamp - it looks like it's seeping in the pic... and the heater hose into the firewall looks kinda awkward by the WGA - does it have clearance for engine movement?

Hard lesson learned - never assume ME7 parts (even brackets) will interchange with M4.x.

Glad to hear you found the issue & it was an easy one to rectify :-)

In addition to continuity you need to verify signal voltages. Common issues would be bad ground cable, bad B+ feed to main fuse block. you may have continuity, but under load the resistance will be too high, causing a voltage drop & subsequent switching issues. Just a possibilty.