lookforjoe

Circuit tested the coil/power stage feed / ground / pulse? knock sensors correctly hooked up? Try another crank sensor? If the car was running before, should n't be anything too nuts...

I'm curious as to how the firewall connector dislodged - I think some one else also had that issue - I've just never seen it or understood how it could just happen.

Did you double check the other connectors to make sure they are connected properly? Crank sensor, etc. I recall someone had the iac and TPS reversed, etc...

Where'd you get the sputter bearings?

Rock auto has them. He linked the previous thread, which has the link to rock auto

I never listed the shifter specifics -

'00 shifter housing and cables

stock bushings replaced with Volvo 1378153 ancillary mount bush cut down to correct height (before Kaplhenke bushing install)

shifter can be shortened

stock S60R cable bracket was bent & holes enlarged for '00 cable barrels

Then I added retainer hooks to make sure the cable barrels could not lift in the bracket

later I modified it to include an adjuster for the main shift cable

On 3/10/2014 at 9:12 AM, RussianRvolvo said:

Does it fit to my M66 FWD from S60T5?

Fits any M66. You may need to tap the existing hole (gold bolt on left) above the axle - it's not usually threaded on S60/V70 applications.

Can i install the same in my M66 from FWD S60T5? Do you have on extra mount bracket for me? I would buy))

I usually make them to order. I can make one for you, as long as you don't need it yesterday. They are $125 shipped to a US address, don't know what the cost to Moscow will be. PM me.

How much did the plates cost?

About $20, back when I bought them. The online webstore has them for about $29

Thank you What size IPD sway bar?

Same as yours. AWD 25/25 104573 kit. Bought it about six years ago.

TMM9 - please excuse the diversion..

Can you write volvo part number of XC plate and what front sway bar are you use??

9480184. IPD sway bar

That new housing has to be a significant improvement in flow over the old one. I don't understand why they have such a crappy design - my HRC 20g had the same crap setup.

I wasn't aware of a difference in the floor/subframe offset between FWD/AWD, however the plate would not sit flat if I cut off the standoffs, so there must be a difference in the AWD subframe since I believe the floor pan is the same.

Revised part of the MAF scaling - slightly increased the flow values in the idle voltage range to see if it drops the LTFT values once warm. I recorded these values once warm, so I focused on tweaking in the 0.7056 - 0.8624v range. Cold, the range is up around 0.9716-1.1719v, so that area I need to keep leaner to prevent the flooding I was experiencing.

last night 18.50 kg/h - .7813v - 6.75degrees @ 930rpm

this morning 19.13 kg/h - .7813v - 9degrees @ 930rpm

revised values in the left table.

tweaked table - see how it goes today

Found out on Wednesday that the primary reason for my cold start / warmup woes was the timing map. I was using a table based on my TT map, with values closer to the M4.3 in the lower rpm scales.

In fact, the issue has been the MAF table. EDIT: Problem was Warmup Factor scaling due to much larger injectors. Finally resolved Winter 2014 (Thanks Aaron!!!)

The rescaled values are perfect it seems for part load and WOT - it is very responsive - but not good at all in the low end of the scale, where the voltage to flow clearly is more critical. Also thanks to TMM9 for pointing out all the CAT efficiency tables needed to be zeroed out - they pull timing during warmup.

Through empirical testing, Piet determined the available MAF scale for 960 MAF has some flaws, which would have contributed further to the scale I was using.

Thanks to a MAF editior that Simply Volvo created, I was able to copy & paste the flow values Piet established from 0-1.1956V (having determined that the flow during warmup/elevated RPM falls within that range) into my tune, and with a few small changes to related warmup & idle maps, I feel confident my issues with coldstart/warmup are now gone. It's been buggin me for well over a month, and being somewhat obessive/compulsive, it was not something I was willing to let go & just wait it out for the warmer temps.

coldstart this morning

almost operating temp

no stumble, stall, loading up or hesitation during the process.

The next issue is tweaking the values once fully warm, the LTFT_I should not be that high, but minor concern compared to the constant flooding/stalling I've been dealing with every morning & afternoon.

Coming together nicely.

The main difference with the XC plate is that it won't deform with the double-wall reinforced design - it keeps an even seat for the subframe bushing. Not sure why you had to cut it to fit, though.

Old pic before I switched to CJ's Delrin.

Nice! Curious to hear what the clutch feel/engagement will be like on this setup.

Still playing with the warmup values, lambda delay, and every other table that might effect warmup cycle .

In the meantime, I have also found that it's been a tad rich under load conditions (much black smoke under WOT/ heavy accel to the trip back from Edison), so I reduced the latency and minimum injection time values a hair.

Did a hard pull this afternoon, but didn't go WOT below 60. 60-120 was still around 8 sec, so pretty much on par with TTusb setup, but richer values. Need to further reduce WOT values below 6K - the AFR range in 4th looks pretty solid, just too rich. No timing pull or knock recorded.

EDIT

Used the data log playback to determine precisely which cells were used when the part load AFR's get to rich - dropped them a fraction. Red highlights are the revised values.

No - I used the S60R MLS with my 2.3l

It was shimmed with 6061 aluminum, with about 2 mm of empty space at the top.

I wouldn't say they're trash, but I will say it is a weakpoint in the motor for sure.

Were they interference fit or pushed in snug? Rebore or no? Helps to know the exact process you used to compare with other installs - should other shimmed failures arise.

This is terrible news.

Depends on how they were installed, I would say. I think the steel shim is a better solution.

Zero'd out the Cat heating related tables - see how it goes on the next cold start/warmup. Temps are supposed to drop back over the week

Wondering whether I should just drop these adjustments to zero also - looks like they are set to run for quite some time....

current idling values in 2nd pic 1st pic is from this morning before changes - LTFT_I dropped to zero after I zero'd out the cat heating tables

Nice! Did you bend the ends of the tabs on an angle so they don't create a restriction/barrier in the coolant passage?

Nice, what size did the bore end up after boring? Did you have any headwork done?

The bore size would depend on the pistons he bought - Wiseco offers a specific range. If it's a 2.3L block, I would assume 81.5 bore, as that is the piston size they offer.

H, looking under the Emissions Category. I found, Ignition Retard for Catalytic Heating at Idle, and delta ignition angle for catalyst heating in part load.

Maybe thats what TMM9 is talking about?

Rod

Thanks, Rod I'll look at those

While at idle the values in the main ignition map are not referenced. Therefore, your adjustments to that map for startup shouldn't make any difference for those conditions.

'Idle ignition angle correction by coolant temp' is the amount of ignition advance added to your idle advance at a given coolant temp.

'Idle ignition angle characteristic' is your ignition angle at idle load.

There are a few maps that change the ignition angle based on keeping the cat healthy. On a cold start these maps will retard your ignition to warm up the cat quickly. You should zero these out, that is if you're not running a cat.

Can these additional maps be added to the XDF?

I didn't touch the correction by coolant temp table in this case, the angle characteristic table I had changed to match my main table, since the previous values appeared to match the stock main table lowest load row. I had that (angle characteristic) at stock values previously, and it didn't make any difference.

So, the changes to the main map were the only significant change between the tunes

Found out on Wednesday that the primary reason for my cold start / warmup woes was the timing map. I was using a table based on my TT map, with values closer to the M4.3 in the lower rpm scales. M4.4 has idle timing values of 5-6 degrees, which just made no sense - HOWEVER - with those values back closer to stock, the engine now starts & runs much happier in zero © and below weather. Warm starts were generally not a problem, but sometimes it would stall after first start when hot.

EDIT feb/2015: Not. Warmup Factor is primary cause. That has to be lowered for modified setups with larger MAF housing, larger injectors

basic table values

Still needs some tweaking - I did raise the latency values in the 13-14v range to bring the STFT down a touch, along with raising the inj constant somewhat over the calculated value for the 1000cc injectors at 3.3bar idle FP.

I now need a replacement BG - it started whining horribly when cold - it may be just bearings, but I don't have a spare with good input splines, so I've ordered a used one from Tom's, and I'll rebuild mine as a backup if it's just the bearings.. Driving on the two flats/bent wheels recently probably didn't help, but it was a used high mileage BG anyway. Heater fan also took a dump - it would work intermittently, which made me think it was a sensor, but with a new fan it works as it should in manual or auto settings.

Why order crank bearings (main) before they check the crank? If it's worn you'll be ordering a new set...

Carrier bolts (mains) can be reused a couple times before they should be changed out.

21mm is stock. 23mm will require custom pistons...

If you get Toga Racing mains it doesn't matter about the Volvo markings. Either way, the crank needs to be removed & the bores checked before you order any parts at all.

So the oily plug was due to a compression/blow by issue?

- '04 C70 HPT motor = 2.3l