lookforjoe

Still not much going on with hardware mods - X1/9 is a ways off from completion.

Fabricating LH2.2 harness for the X1/9

Using Saab 514 ECU & 005 MAF (2L application) -has removable chip, so I can burn a revised chip with adjusted values for smaller injectors, etc. of the stroker 1600 I've built

Convert drive belt system to serpentine - crank pulley has a '04 Volvo PS pump rim welded to modified X1/9 crank hub, Volvo alternator & tensioner brackets, idler pulleys.

So, I did the ECU mod for TunerPro with an Ostrich2.0 (many thanks to TMM9, Simply Volvo, and the others working the Tuner Rejoice thread).

install ZIF socket after removing chip

ZIF - PLCC adaptor

Ostrich2.0 installed inside case - made a USB adaptor to extend socket to outside case - other harness is for the TT COP module connection

Worked on the software side today - thanks to Justus for a modified xdf that converts VE map to TT map scaling - so I was able to manually transfer my fuel & ign map values directly into the 608bin. Until I play with MAF scaling, this should get me running.

Simply Volvo helped me out over the phone with many of the smaller tweaks

Tmm9 provided an xdf that gives access to the fan speed control settings - so I can lower the values for the lower temp t/stat.

Log from this evening - have a part throttle rich area that needs fixing

like JoHann said, it's from a 960. They have a little rail like that with rubber attachments that go to the intake manifold which would make for a very easy ITB setup

Yes, I am familiar with that, I just didn't realize you could just chop off a cyl & use it I know where I can get at least one to play with, then...

Most in place again,

Forgot to ask - what application is that intake runner flange for? Looks like a good basis for custom manifolds

Nice!

Glad we're all a bunch of weirdo's....

Indeed I do want. Graydon sent me a set but I don't think they ever made it out of customs.

PM me so we can work it out.

Was wondering where this was at - couldn't remember the thread title.

Volvo used that same design regulator for 240T, 260 & 760 motors - a wide range of values. I think the 240TI (1985) version would the closest to yours...

Beautiful. I put '78 262 Bertone tails on my '74 142.

I still have the original Volvo Service Manual (covers everything, unlike later series that are sold by category) for '74 140 series, if you have an interest...

Did you switch between EGT and inj duty cycle in those last logs Hussein? I am surprised by your low EGT's in the previous run, hitting 1228 fahrenheit (664 celcius) at 7500 rpm. I hit around 1750 fahrenheit (950 celcius) in that region. I dont know where your sensor is mounted, mine is in the lip of the R-manifold just before the turbo where the gasses of all 5 cylinders come together.

EGT probe for logging is in the WG dump tube - not so good for logging. My gauge EGT probe is in the header collector, by #4 runner, since that one tends to run hottest. Logging probe is off by almost 400ºF up top. I just deleted the EGT column, since it is inaccurate.

I'll reply to your email questions later.

Running well overall. Copper drain tube working nicely - no more oil smoke

Still need time to fit the fuel lines, FPR & rail. Got E85 PTFE AN-8 fuel line & fittings to run to the rail.

Did a pull to close to 8K AFR's rise to 13.7 by the top, plenty of timing, pulls very nicely but no margin for safety

Oil temp probe is not hooked up - hence the fixed reading

No way around the lean condition up top, adding WOT enrichment does not counter it, so I have to wait until the pumps are hooked up before I can raise the boost.

On 11/6/2013 at 8:28 AM, matt b said:

Not sold on the plastidipped front end but I'm impressed by the engine work.

I missed the update, what wheels are you running now ?

Enkei something-or-others I don't recall the model #. I went with 225/50x17's, which is not good with a lowered chassis. Wheels fit over BBK's with no spacers.

The nice thing about the plastidip is that you can just peel it off. I did it mainly cos I didn't like the crack that had developed over the grille area. Not about to shell out another few hundred to repaint again.

It is actually included as a link in the stickied manual swap thread, not sure how many people look there. BlackT5's needs to go in also, due to the hardware & software variances for 99-00 cars, though

Looking again, it's in Oreos post, and there is no index in the opening post to direct anyone looking. I'll PM Adam & see if he can organize it a little better.

Why would copper be doing anything to the oil?

AFR's are looking good, fuel pressure still looks a little funny.

I don't know. I read one of Nathan's posts where he was concerned about copper particulates, I have no idea where they were from in his case. I don't see how any copper could transfer to the oil passing in the drain, there is no state change where any transfer should be occurring.

Fuel pressure is still based on volume of the single DW300 and stock lines, I'll indicate when the new system is in place :-)

4th gear pull to 7500. Timing logged is above requested in the 100% load range, so I'm adding fuel to the 88 & 92% load ranges, 66K - up. Coolant temps with 160ºf T/stat

well there's not much consequence if you start getting cracks or leaks in the breather system. An oil line is a different story.

Ben - I was referring to the possible transfer of copper particles to the oil that Trent was mentioning - not the potential metal fatigue. The breather system parts are all soft mounted junctions at each end.

Just updating pics of the trans bracket in place

Note that anyone doing this on a '00 or AWD with 5 speed auto will also need to buy the '97-'99 style trans mount 9161101 to get the height adjustment.

Subframe lugs should also be shaved along the seam

Kaplhenke can also supply nice heim joint bushings for the x70 style cable ends (98-00)

When filling one of these trans with the modified bracket, easiest to fill through the top shift detent bolt shown in the above pic.

I have copper pipes for parts of the breather system also. Never considered it to be an issue.

Got the AN-08 Fragola fittings & hose for the fuel rail feed

DIdn't confirm that 8000 series hose is E85 compatible, so need to know that before I go any further. Summit's listing just says compatible with 'most' fuels

Updates

Plastidip bumper & grille

Pumps installed. Have to finish lines, regulator & rail

3/4" - 1" drain tube to RNC drain port

Additional block vent from old turbo drain port to main catch can

feeds up into center line

Extra vent from catch can to drain can

system:

that would bug me too... did you actually see it while you drove at WOT in you RWM?

I don't think that is actually from the turbo it self or the way you have your return oil line set up.

rwm= rear view mirror

I would have to say it was a combination of events - higher boost with the OLED that was not tuned for, residual CC pressure at the elevated boost levels, and the AN -10 drain.

I was pretty certain I saw residual oil smoke, since it tends to hover with the now lower ambient temps. The last 6k+ pull I did last week I saw oil smoke at the end of the pull - of course this is a momentary glance as my main attention is focused up front given the fact that we are talking about 6k & up in 4th gear.

So far, no evidence of oil smoke since I put the larger drain in last night. I do have sooting, since the AFR's are on the rich side below 6500. Still need to work on that.

I agree with Ben that thermal expansion is a concern - especially since I'm running headers rather than a cast iron manifold. I'm not convinced that I need to run out ASAP & do it over in steel, however I will start gathering the appropriate materials. After all, I like making stuff.

I would be really WORRIED about running copper in this application. Copper is really sensitive to vibrations and work hardens very easily. Since the engine is vibrating and the turbo manifold is expanding and contracting that thing is gonna move around over and over again, eventually it gets hard and brittle and then it cracks.

That's why I used the annealed/flex copper for the drop down.

I'll monitor it.

Now I have a good prototype, I can always look to making it from steel.

does your turbo still leaks? if so where from ?

No leaks. It appeared to me that there was residual oil smoke on extended WOT pulls this past week, and I didn't have that with the previous 3/4" hard pipe.

Decided to redo the oil drain. AN-10 is the minimum recommended, and I just don't like the AN fittings & PFTE hose, having spent $140 on all the pieces .

New line is 3/4" ID, at the flange & flex section. Larger sections are slightly over 1", to allow for any potential oil froth issues at higher boost. Braised all junctions and AN-10 tube sleeve to the end of the pipe. Tried an alternate with stainless section, but decided against it, I wanted a larger chamber around the base also. Flex section allows for expansion, since both ends are bolted in place.

Comparision with AN-10 braided

installed

I don't know... I guess that depends upon your definition of "band-aid". To me, a supplemental pump is a supplemental pump - whether located in the tank or not.

I could better understand the need to install a parallel fuel pump if he was having fueling issues across his entire rpm range... but, as his data logs show, his current setup appears to provide enough fuel up to 6500rpm. It's really only from 6500rpm through red-line that the additional fuel appears to be needed.

Like I said, I don't know...i'm trying to learn...that's why I asked

Just to further address this - these are not supplemental pumps, nor in parallel. Think of it like the old 240's & 700/900 series that had an in-tank primer pump, and an external main pump. That's the concept, just higher output in both cases. The DW300 will now feed the surge tank with dual 044's, with two lines feeding into one to the FPR, one return to the surge tank, and a return to the main tank from there. Lines will be routed along original channel under car, then up into inner fender around strut tower & behind reservoirs and ECU box to new FPR location.

somewhere here (AN-08 fittings instead of the 3/8" QC style shown)

feed will be oriented along these lines, now AN-08 instead of AN-06 shown

Feed from in-tank will be increased to 3/8 (10mm)", main feeds and return are 12mm, as opposed to stock 5/16". It's impressive that the stock lines can support up to 450AWHP, really.

Line from FPR to rail will be AN-08 as opposed to indicated AN-06 illustrated

Made the aluminum heat shield for the surge tank today. Dynamat to reduce possible buzz/vibration from panel

tab with slot fits under bumper bracket bolt, side bracket secures to surge tank mount, forward tab tucks under fuel filler neck protection bracket, at the frame rail. My welds still are ugly, but at least I can make stuff out of aluminum now

There is about 1/2" or so between muffler & shield. I may add heat foil, haven't decided. It would cover up my fugly welds....

Thinking about using this Fragola line (AN-08 I/O) for the feed from FPR to rail. Can be ordered in various lengths, I'm going with 16" and planning on installing the FPR in front of the ECU box, lines tucked behind & along the frame rail rather than over the motor.

Fuelpressure stays more stable now! Only fitted a (bigger?) other fitting on the rail? Good work man!!

That's mainly because I lowered the boost (back to 21psi). I'm just making adjustments to level off the AFR's from 6500 up.

I haven't added a larger line to the rail on the car, I was referring to the larger rail I will be adding to go with the larger lines, AEM regulator, etc. when I get to that point. It's problematic because I need to tap into the existing return line without going to the tank fittings.

Added a little more fuel in the 88-92% load ranges. Now I need to pull some back to get it closer to 12 below 6500

No time to work on the fuel system, all I got done was to weld a AN-08 fitting to the rail.

Installed the surge tank. Need to run the feed & return, AEM FPR, larger rail, and the return to tank. That's gonna be the bitch.

Need to make a heat shield for the tank.

Wiring - just have to hook up the pumps feed, trigger & grounds. One relay & fuse for each 044

Data log from yesterday, with the extra fuel added to the map up top.

Fuel pressure & Inj duty values are similar, but AFR's are better, so, still have a little headroom to enrichen so more.

better AFR's as far as I took it, compared to the previous settings