lookforjoe

Forgot I reworked the inlet to snorkel pipe this week. Went through a couple versions before settling on using the stock snorkel cut back to remove the bottle neck 

Found out that the system was overboosting significantly with the new setup. Shown here is 6th gear, progressive throttle.

Reverted to stock Pierburg TCV, no change.

Revised the IC-TB hose to 2.75" (made a dogleg pipe from mandrel bend pipe, with 3">2.75" 90º coupler off the IC and 2.75" I/O coupler to the TB)

Reinstalled the stock TB instead of the Porsche unit (porsche unit was fine with K04 & Elevate tune)

in place

no more contact with rad shroud or AC pressure switch

Boost is now rock steady at 21psi IBP, and part throttle surge has all but gone. I can live with this until I get a Hilton tune underway

Sounds like that maybe the way to go. Here's a detail shot of the sleeve around the new pipe

Looking down 

Looking forward from the motor side

Water trap for EBP line to guage

9 hours ago, andyb5 said:

Nice work (as always) Hussein! You made short work of the K16/SMF swap.

Can you explain more about what you ended up doing for the IC/TB hose?  Matt put the Porsche 70mm TB on his car and the do88 IC/TB hose hits the AC switch. It's a 1 piece silicone hose. He spent a long time fighting with that hose to get it aligned and secured in place but due to the rubbing it's not a permanent solution.

I had to sleeve the Elevate hose with a section of another hose - you can see it near the top. I added that AFTER I found the rubbing through (visible at the elbow) - but I think it rides up from the motion of the engine. The reason mine is two-part is due to the larger Bell IC I/O - I bought a silicone step 90º to transition from the Elevate to the IC. I was going to leave it at that, until I found the damage to the hose above.

With the new hose, I added a section of addtional hose around the elbow secured with a industrial tie wrap, so the pressure switch rubs that instead of the hose. There is no way to avoid contact with the Porsche TB offset that I can figure out yet. Perhaps cutting back the top of the 45º so that the hose isn't pushed forward will work - I didn't have time to play with it further yesterday as I absolutely had to get the car back together & running. 

Pretty sure I will be spending more time on it - I lost the section of 2.75" IC piping & intended to use as the bridge, and had to use a section of 3", which adds to the problem by swelling the two silicone couplers in already tight areas. The lower one is now almost touching the lower rad hose. Can't figure out what I did with all my 2.75" IC piping from the early XR IC setup - I have plenty of 3" & larger section :( I'll have to buy a piece. The more I look at it, the more I'm sure cutting back the top 45º where it attaches to the TB will do the job - that may not work with the DO88 / Elevate hoses, unless they have enough 'stretch' - Mine I can adjust overall length to compensate as needed.

On 4/13/2017 at 7:29 AM, NEU said:

Was wondering if this was coming together before Carlisle.

Hello Neu- not sure I'll be bringing the C30. The plan was to have the body painted on the Fiat - and bring that :) not sure that will happen before Carlisle, so it may be the C30!

Bunch of fiddly bits today - had to redo the IC/TB hose - with the deeper Porsche TB the hose is pushed into the AC pressure switch

Larger 550cc  injectors for the K16 going in

fitting the PITA upper IC piping & hose

Turns out the later air vent pipe only needs the shuttle & rubber block to seal. With the extra ones from the old air vent pipe, the line blew out when I pumped the clutch.

Blue piece is the shuttle that I drilled out (after taking this pic) to match normal flow orifice

Removed the two extra seals, and it's all good. Got the Mrs. to help bleed it, and then put everything else back together - new rad hoses, overflow hoses, battery, air box, etc. I swapped out all the regular hose clamps on the DO88 kit for Oetiker clamps.

All back together & running. Now I have to get used to the heavier clutch again :) Exhaust blanket is making quite a stink also. Hopefully that will settle down soon.

Axles are re-booted & re greased & installed. This is the correct EMPI 86-2411D  - replacement inner boot  - about 1/2 the price of the Volvo boxed CKN boot (31256019, inner; 31256018 inner & outer kit). 

Couldn't get the clutch hard line to seal in the air vent tube with out the shock load limiter in place, so I drill out the hub to match the normal flow ID. With the load limiter & original line seal, the line seals properly in the vent tube.

Refilled the trans & started putting back all the odds & ends.  Modified the heat shield to allow install of the EBP line - 2nd shot's the charm ;)

Hopefully wrap it up tomorrow: install injectors, water trap for EBP line, coolant hoses, IC hoses, battery tray, etc.

8 hours ago, andyb5 said:

Did you leave the subframe in place when you removed the transmission?

I did. Pain in the neck coming out, but going back in, I removed the heater hose of the back of the motor & rotated the transaxle so the diff pointed straight up, then rotated it around to align. Definite PITA on a jack with wood chocks strategically placed while jacking to prevent it falling off..

Dropped the turbo today.

Turbosmart dual port CBV base orings suck, emailed Don about this

K16 going in. Added a blanket to the housing, and also a SS bung to feed my dual boost gauge

RS oil cooler in

Trans back in

Hopefully wrap it up tomorrow afternoon.

In Fiat related news, the heater valve went this morning. Replaced it with one of the metal/plastic style 700 valves.

Started on the 110k service work - t/belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, serpentine belts, etc.

Doing all the hoses with do88 kit while I have it all apart.

Found a nest behind the battery tray

and.... dropped the trans

Pressing on the new bearings

6843481 L&R axles seals, 32008-XQ bearings x2, Subaru gasket sealant 004403007

WaveTrac in, all back together. New slave and vent tube, with shock load limiter removed.

Spec Stage III +

rear main

Spec Flywheel in

CV boots

K16, injectors going in tomorrow, then putting it all back together.

This the one you were waiting for that was held up in customs/delivery? Looks pretty :)

7 hours ago, NEU said:

Mine are the Hella Optilux Extreme Yellow XY H11 55w I got from Pepboys, they were on sale for $19 with a web coupon. They are more orange (amber) than yellow. I had a set of cheap h8 35w yellow bulbs off Amazon that had a better color but the output wasn't nearly as bright as the h11. But one blew within 2 months...  I have a set of yellow 100w h11 that I was going to put in the high beams, but I'm afraid they'll melt something...

Have you had anyone high beam you for having 65w? I haven't had anyone complain about my upgraded fogs yet... And I drive with them on all the time.

 

The bulbs came today - I ordered H9's by mistake, so I'll be grinding the steel locating tab as well as the bulb socket tab ;(

I have had a couple people flash me for the 65's, but I did actually lower them slightly so I'm assuming it's because they're brighter as opposed to actual glare.

I run 80/100W H4's in the X1/9 :)

I think the high beams take H9's - according to my manual the lows are H7. I don't recall what I removed originally.

On January 19, 2017 at 7:34 AM, NEU said:

And the cR stock 35w fogs was a joke too.Nice touch with the relay remembering that you had your fogs on. That would be nice if it was that way stock like on the p80. I'd prefer that over having them on with low beam.

 

I didn't realize they were only 35w! I cut the metal alignment tabs on my old H11 55W low beams & put those in yesterday in place of the H8's. I have ordered 65W yellow coated H11's to go in next week.

Turns out the fuse I'm using for switched power is live even with the lights off completely - so I have fogs alone, fogs w/running lights, low & high beams.

Finally found the manufacturer & style of the terminal & housings used for most instrumentation & C30 switches. Used on x70 and newer - don't know about 850. Took me two days of looking to finally find them. They look like TE Mini MLC style, but that's not it

Listed as Hitachi on one website  - These connectors (IL-AG5 series) are actually made by JAE Electronics  6 cents ea. if you buy 100. 

On 6/10/2016 at 9:21 PM, lookforjoe said:

Finished up the main casing for now. 

Back to the filter housing inlet. Filter is the RX-4730XD. Flows approx 675cfm. Motor requires approx 610cfm, based on 6500 rev limit, 18psi. Started working on the 4" piping & junction where the snorkel currently sits

Thinking I'll fashion a snorkel out of aluminum. Or, weld the elbow to the housing inlet (to get rid of the coupler) & leave the snorkel but modify it.. 

Figured out the problem (s). The Volvo relay I was trying was dead - it shorted & blew the fuse everytime I turned on the switch. The aftrmarket relay I had incorrectly wired with B:23 as the switched power - that is actually a switched ground for the foglight switch illumination.

Tried another Volvo relay (9162260) with my modified switch and it functioned as to should, and turned off with the ignition.

So, I reinstalled the aftermarket relay, put the original Volvo headlamp switch with fog switch back in, and picked a switched power supply from fuse 58. With the wiring thus, the factory switch turns the fogs on as long as at least the parking lights are on. They stay on with low and high beams. They turn off with the ignition off, so no funky business with backfeed through the factory wiring, which I left intact. The nice thing about this relay is that it remembers the last state, and returns to that, so if the fogs were on when I turn the car off, they will turn on when the car is restarted.

tucked away against the bulkhead

6 hours ago, Blockpartie said:

A dealership will say a lot of things...

Have you checked yourself if the car says that it has foglights when connected to VIDA? Just because something can be remotely activated does not mean that everything is well.

 

I have a printout of all the factory installed options on the car, foglights is one of them. It's not just the dealership, although I have known the shop foreman there since the '80's when we worked together at a Volvo dealership. The VCNA employee who worked on it remotely I also have known since the 80's when I also worked alongside him, so I have faith that he was not making up stories.

13 hours ago, NEU said:

I'm not a big fan of these new electronics too. Had issues with mine.

I upgraded mine fog light bulbs from the 35w h8 to 55w h11. And you can get the h11 in amber much easier and cheaper then the h8...

Interesting about The Belgium light mods. Not sure I dig the twin rear fogs. That always irked me as others might think it's brakes. But that could be a good thing... LOL!

I'm done with HID's left them with the XR - couldn't stand the warmup time, the fact that they don't heat up so the h/l housings ice over in snow/sleet, the current surge when all 4 beams were turned on, the neverending ballast and/or bulb failures... 

Good suggestion on the wattage increase for the fogs.  I upped the low beams with 65W Philips H9's some time ago, just had to shave a stop out of the bulb base.

I'm of two minds on the dual fogs. They were dropped back in the day for good reason - but those cars didn't have high mount brake lights, so I don't think too many drivers today would mistake them for brake lights. 

11 hours ago, Blockpartie said:

Have you checked if the software is actually installed and the readout says the car is supposed to have foglights? Correct light switch installed?

Been through that. Had the car at the dealership back in 2015 after I bought it. Correct software & switch are present. Foglights would only turn on remotely through Volvo online. Took it back & had the CEM reprogrammed, software reinstalled, same story. I left the car for an entire day last fall, and same story at the end of the day. They said they would have to tear everything apart to determine the fault, which still makes no sense as the foglight wiring is obviously OK,  since they can be remotely activated. 

Anyway, the system doesn't like having wires tacked into the CEM. So far, the only way I can get the fogs to come on & stay on when I want, and turn off with the car is to have a switch on the fog relay ground leg (G:9). 

I found that the 9130270 relay I was trying was actually dead - it was blowing the fuse as soon as the I fed power to 86. Went through the few spare fuses I had (no ATM spares) so I need new fuses before I retry that alternative. The momentary contact 3523804 relay won't work as the built in signal from the C30 fog switch simply powers the relay continuously, so the fogs stay on permanently.

Hopefully the rain will ease up, it's a PITA working in the wet...

CEM connectors

Wiring alternatives

Removed the CEM, Removed G:9, B:23 & A:32 & added pigtails to feed the new relay, 

terminating at this 6 pole JPT connector, which the relay will plug into

Using stock ground point

However, that relay didn't work. The signal from the stock foglight switch (to B:23 at the CEM) engaged the new relay, but caused it to 'strobe".

So, I've made two alternatives to try.

Manual on/off switch integrated into headlight switch. This will switch a standard relay to ground, turning on the fogs. power supplied from the light circuit, so no fogs if the lights are off. Fogs will stay on with high beams.

Alternate is a Volvo overdrive relay, which relies on a trigger signal to turn it on/off. This will make use of the existing momentary feed from the stock foglight switch. Power will be switched from the light circuit also. Won't know until tomorrow if it will work. I'd rather keep the dash switch stock, so this is the preferred option

FIY  -you can fill those out of the car - no fluid will leak out unless you tip it over where the vent nipple is located :)

I use a pair of long sheet rock screws to extract the inner/outer   D/S seal - but if it was dry no reason to fuck with it I agree.

Built a Bosch Powerstage (960, M4.4) setup to run instead of the Mitsu - less wires, easier to locate spares for me. Mouser has all the AMP 2,3 & 7 pole connectors.

C30 stuff - rewired the fogs & brakes, added two additional brake lights - following Gerrit's (TheBelgian on C30) directions. I used Volvo conenctors instead of scotch locks & American spade connections ;)

tested the wiring

Gonna fix my foglight - bypass the CEM & wire them through a separate pulse relay.  The factory wiring appears to feed juice to both sides of the fog relay, and uses the pulse from the foglight switch to inform the CEM that it is OK to ground the (85) terminal of the fog relay, thus turning on the fogs. In my case, the CEM is refusing to do so, even though I have paid for the fucking software, and Volvo cannot figure out why it won't accept the signal. Did I mention I hate all this software reliant operation? Bunch of fucking crap.

1 hour ago, Simply Volvo said:

Had some time to read through all of the fiat stuff. Very cool stuff going on.

I really like how you use other parts from other cars (s2000 seats, x70 center console, x70 warning lights in the dash, etc).

Speechless on the body work for just doing it at home! Looks fantastic.

Will you be bringing this car to Carlisle this year?

Thanks, Matt.

Still hoping to paint it myself also - see how that goes with the 2K prime coat...

I will be driving this to Carlisle - the K16, etc. on the C30, won't happen until the X1/9 is mostly done.

Chopped up the instrument cluster to move the tach next to the speedo

adding some v70 and 700 content - idiot light cluster & film

little bit of circuit wiring

rewiring the harness

finally, view through the wheel :)

EZK 116 with wasted spark mod

Harness...

Coil placement

Power stage & heat sink

Kingsborne custom plug wires in, distributor removed (Fiat made a blanking plug for cam mounted distributor setups)

tach pulse relay

Whose is the 500? Is it an Abarth   ?

Still more detail filling/blending to go - after these pics I did more work on the front fender caps, the rear spoiler, and added some meat to the side of the front spoiler where it was tapered to level off the upward sweep of the stock lip

repaired front lip where it was damaged by flatbed after HG failure

fattened & tapered the side up into marker light region, and removed 'wobble' visible in 3/4 shots

before 

after

before 

after

unless I get lucky, the avergae temps now are 40ºF range, so too cold to continue with any bodywork. 

Got both doors cleaned up, primed & installed. Modified C30 rockers fitted.

Worked on some low spots

reworking the original larger engine cover, it feels more in keeping with the larger rear

had to bead blast the seams &  rebond the inner to outer panels

Primed

front end mostly done

Made additional Tail lamp bezels

Replacement doors next