lookforjoe

On 10/23/2016 at 1:48 PM, andyb5 said:

It was a reman from Colorado DS.  I can't put any blame on Colorado DS, as I bought it used with a couple thousand miles on it.  When I installed it, I noticed the CVs had to be pulled into place slightly, as opposed to having to compress the CVs to install the factory 99 driveshaft.  This is all "seat of the pants" so I'll get some actual measurements and report back.

How many miles did you have on your 00 driveshaft?  I installed mine in early May, and I put approx 8000 miles on the driveshaft before it started to vibrate.

I don't actually know how many miles, I drove it for the last year or so of it's life with an '00 DS (large carrier) before buying a DS reman shortly before it died. I have a few DS's in my garage attic, I'll have to pull them down & take a few measurements. Any chance it was installed backwards? It is possible to install it reversed - I know 'cos I did that at one time... had to check old references to see which end is intended to be in front..

Installed Honda S2000 seats in place of the vinyl Miata seats. Better support.

figuring out spacing/brackets

made brackets

On October 21, 2016 at 11:09 PM, andyb5 said:

And it turns out that you can't run a 2000 R driveshaft in a 99 R.  There is a slight difference in overall length - the difference is enough that the CV's can't compensate and will wear out after a few thousand miles. So once I get another re-manufactured driveshaft from Colorado Driveshaft, it'll be time to start actually modifying this pig again instead of just fixing broken shit.

Interesting. I ran an '00 driveshaft (with the larger carrier bearing) in mine - unless it was in fact a late 99 shaft that had the larger carrier - I can't say for sure because I didn't remove it from the original car. I have compared VC's though - didn't note a difference in length for the output flange offset that would create the need for a different shaft (Offset change in '01 is very obvious). Did you take any comparsion pics to show your findings? 

Was the shaft that wore out a DS reman? Is it possible they just didn't rebuild it correctly, or did they state there is a difference in the DS shaft length?

Back end mostly done, widened the rear spoiler. "A" & "B" pillar seams mostly done. Air ducts done.

Interior will get some work after bodywork is done

two EZK ECU's modded with OBDII ports for logging

On October 6, 2016 at 4:28 PM, andyb5 said:

Just post the direct link to the image and the site will automatically embed the image 

Probably cos I was trying to do it from my phone - the PB links seem more convulted that way

didn't like the bump out where the rear met the fender

so I filled it & made a crease line

fender tops look pretty well blended now

EDIT: Widened the rear spoiler to match the fender lines

On 10/4/2016 at 11:51 AM, Commander Riker said:

Are you going to keep it red?

Yes, but Passion Red 612 rather than the current Bertone variant of 601 Red.

Back end mostly done now

EDIT _ WTF has happened with the site now???? PB img links don't work, and the advanced edit function is gone...

14 hours ago, NEU said:

Is that Elevate tune stage 2 tune and DP but still stock muffler. I see you have all the larger intercooler piping, ported intake runners installed. What about the 70mm throttle, are you running that too? Did you notice any hit in torque? I've heard the intake manifold you loose a bit of torque, they were referring to the Anembo, which seems a lot bigger.

I want to make mine just a bit better but don't want to loose any of the torque. I keep thinking about a stage1 and exhaust, maybe a DP but don't want to loose MPG. I did see a slight drop since I installed Kristians turbo inlet, but that could be I'm harder on it that I was before.

BTW what torque mount are you running? I've got the factory upgrade with the R but I'm considering the E-Focus or harder Powerflex insert. But I hear with the AW55 softer is less vibration.

It's the Elevate tune for all the K04 mods - 3" exhaust, 3"DP, race cat, manifold, ported runners, IC, etc. I added the cutout before the stock muffler so I can be fully quiet or anywhere from there to wide open.

No torque drop with the tune & his plenum. Torque drop if I run the cutout wide open at low/mid rpms. These twinky little turbos need some back pressure it seems. I do have the 70mm TB. Makes the tip in a tad twitchy. I have the E-Focus mount. Don't want drivetrain vibration in the cabin.

I'm really happy with the way it handles & takes off with the Elevate tune. I don't pay too much attention to mileage as I do mostly local driving - 15 miles one way. I get much better mileage when we do the 2-3 hour trips or greater distances. Either way, it's a veritable miser compared to the XR ;) I do have the 18" wheels with 235/40x18's so that does have some negative impact on mileage, but the handling is great.

Got a bit done today on the rear panels

top seams are pretty close now - hard to photograph in just primer

have to fill in the rear panel vertical seams, resolve some tie in details from the 1/4's into the rear panel, tail lamp surrounds, etc

4 minutes ago, NEU said:

I thought installed the k16 and most of the goodies that you got a while ago. So what are you running on the now? 

Still The K04 / Elevate tune. All the other secondary support stuff (bigger IC, airbox, piping, etc) is in place. I had originally planned to do the K16 this past spring, but that didn't work out with the Fiat being undriveable. Until I have the Fiat available as my DD, the K16/WaveTrac install is on hold.

Still waiting for parts for the head gasket job. Got both rear inner arches made, bonded to the original sheet metal, and the outer panels bonded.

Dang, all that to fix water pooling along the house wall - wouldn't it have been simpler to put in a French drain along the house ;) ? Very cool sleuthing on the vintage structures, though :)

23 hours ago, apeacock said:

Thanks! Needed that spec info. As I was going through I was taking pictures were needed to see what was going on. If I hadn't left those 2 old gaskets in there I might have been alright.  

Definitely 8x1.25 studs. I'd used a thread chaser rather than a regular tap though. That, and a new stud fully seated in the head & it should be fine, they are pretty deep. LIke Doug said, make sure all studs are fully seated in head after you clean that surface!!

Made a modded RN branch pipe for the X1/9 - the stock one came way too close to the headers & contributed to cooling system issues. small elbow return hose got very crispy.

Volvo 740 heater valve...

Waiting for parts to take care of the blown HG

waay too much timing

Max timing for that motor with Fiat ignition 30º from 3500 - up:

I'll use a EZK116 219 (B230FT man) ign map & pull some more timing off that. Shame I can't use M4.4, that would be so much easier than dealing with LH2.4....

No way to reverse this gasket by accident like the separate ones, correct?

Air filter calc

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/airfilter.html

On 9/21/2016 at 7:12 AM, NEU said:

I was looking forward to more c30 updates...

Yeah, K16, Posi, etc., all have to wait until the X1/9 is done.... :)

43 minutes ago, phunktified said:

May have missed it but are you changing the color or keeping the original red? 

I'm going to paint it (myself) Volvo Passion Red (612). Close enough that I'm not going to do the engine bay & front/rear trunks. At least, not now anyway. The car currently is Fiat/Bertone equivilent of 601 red (built in same plant as the 780 Bertone) 

The Dallara body had a wide stripe that runs from fender tip all the way round the car. I'm probably going to do that in a matt yellow/orange or gold.

This style

closer to this color combo, I'm planning anyway...

Finally getting the C30 rocker panel fitted to where I'm reasonably happy with it. Widened the rear section again.

Have to make one for the other side next

4 hours ago, apeacock said:

That's certainly a cool way to do it. The snabb piece is cool and the silicone bends to work for the most part it seems but like I side I'd like that to return to the stock airbox area. Though maybe that's really not needed and i'll be getting enough cold air through the front of the car still. I like the form fitting one Hussein made. That was neat.
 

Sorry I forgot to take pics of my various piping bits. I do still have a couple of versions including the earlier aircan with the stock intake point, perhaps one of them could be modified for your install. I get some pics for you.

Mostly done - fiber-reinforced bondo used on the spoiler/lip seam & wheel arch tie-ins

with Adam's 1985 744TD M46... 

On September 14, 2016 at 8:12 AM, tuner4life said:

The C30 rocker panels look great! I'd use them. The whole car looks so good!

Thank you.

The front spoiler lip is too pointy for the rest of the car - so I'm adding a sectioned 960 lip to fatten it up & mirror the nose ridge

tapered the sides to make the whole thing level & added a section to shift the wheel arch line

Took it back off today & did the seam trim work, and bonded it in place. Now I just have to do the detail fill work in the junction seam.

Nice! Do you have a blanket for that hotside? It would help keep your hoses from getting crispy ;)

Rear panels are fitted - screwed in place until I confirm no suspension / tire contact issues when the 1.5" rear hub adaptors arrive. Right now the wheels are only spaced out 1" with what I had available. After that, I have to remake the inner wheel arches to mate with the panels, and the rear quarter wells

tire/arch clearance at full suspension compression (no spring in place) - with 1.5" worth of spacers (not safe to drive on, just test fit)

Rear Coilovers I made last year..

Considering using C30 rocker panels to tie front & rear - chopped one up to test fit

Got the headlamp adjusters made

More work on tying the nose / fenders together

lines getting close now

cut out the fender arch for the Chrysler/Fiat side markers

Are you sure that one piece will fit? The RNC head has no water port to interfere.

Headlamp support diagram

Initial fill for seam - not as bad as thought it would be at all

Basically a light skim coat to take up the offset - bared the metal only as far as needed for the bondo work

have to get the nose tips to match - this is my guide

On mine, the right has to be cut down on the ridge line from stock fender to tip

left side should be easier to resolve - I added a 1/4" blob to bring it out