lookforjoe

On August 12, 2016 at 8:57 AM, gmsgltr said:

sweet!

Thank you.

Made a removeable tow eyelet like my C30

Nose off, trimmed

Nose bonded in place

On July 31, 2016 at 8:32 AM, 854TGA+ said:

Incredible project H.

I will be sharing this with my old Boss, he's a Fiat freak!

Nice! Didn't you share a video of him racing at one time?

Finally got the headlamps & markers evenly oriented and the surrounds roughed in, so now I can remove the nose section, do the detail & support work on the backside, then bond the nose & fenders to the chassis. Have to make adjusters that can be accessed from the rear, like the old Volvo 700 4-lamp setups.

Inner arch supports

X1/9 converted to LH2.4 - pistons replaced with Wiseco's, chambers enlarged to 36cc to drop static CR to 10.3:1 - after I broke ring lands on #2 (ran super lean, too high compression 10.8:1)

Fibreglass rear lid

chopping up panels for Dallara Kit - test fitment before bonding

have to do the same to the rear next

Might want to check with Ben McNally (BMac) - I think he used a BW Turbo on his S60

7 hours ago, NB-V70R said:

We ran about 3.5 feet from the driver's side across the front of the tank to the hard lines on the passenger side. What issues could the hose cause?

Unless you bought the higher quality European fuel line (Volvo #1266500 [or whatever the current # is] sold by the meter), standard American fuel line, braided or not, tends to dry rot & crack pretty quickly. It is unlikely to last more than a couple years if you are lucky. Given it's hard to access location, I wouldn't risk generic fuel line personally...

You can buy nitrile fuel line splices with barb fittings. Using standard fuel line is not good at all. How many feet of it did you run ?

On June 27, 2016 at 1:00 PM, NEU said:

Are you running KYB front and rear? How do you like them with the Eibachs? Are they still comfortable and how hard do you have the KYB set?

Only KYBs in the back. Fronts are still factory originals. Set on 3-4 significantly firmer / tauter even at that setting. Yes, the ride is very comfortable and not jarring. Height is low enough, without having any of the driveway/speed bump/roadway dips issues I had with the XR 

Finished up the install with a proper seal for the filter neck - cut down section of P80 door seal ;)

Made the cover today

folded edge tucks inside - lip seal added after 

Top & bottom edges are lipped to locate the cover

set screw in the corner 

covered it with the same vinyl wrap

reworked the vacuum tree to eliminate the loop around - uses 12mm OD Nitrile tubing.

Finished up the main casing for now. Added a lip seal between casing and ECU bracket also. Filter is RX-4730XD, previously used on the XR some iterations back

filter neck seal

air intake for now

Need to fabricate the top cover, and make it easy on/off. Maybe use dzus fasteners, not sure yet.

Tacking the addtional pieces of the puzzle

.060" GAUGE 6061 T6 SHEET ALUMINUM

Once the casing is done, I'll figure out a lid for the top opening. 

Love your new home! I miss the old buildings from living back home in England. The US, being such a newly developed continent has very little architecture to commend it. 

What is replacing the 40 series? 

Got the custom Bell IC installed. Fabricated to my spec: 2.75" I/0, 8"x3.5", 28" core, 36.2 overall width.

Found a brand new in box R Design Steering wheel on eBay for $150 :)

Welded my aluminum MAF to the Snabb intake pipe, to eliminate another coupler, and to accept a K&N Xtreme filter instead of the Elevate setup

...started working today on the airbox  - 7" neck, .125" aluminum tube, .063" 6061 sheet. 4" Mandrel bend for air intake

17 hours ago, JaredR1 said:

The last discussion of VVT that I found on the Tuners Rejoice thread was way back on page 304, but the tune builder on the Beüst website has an option for VVT control.  I think I need to send him an email and find out what the story is with that.

If anyone can do it, it would be Aaron or Piet / Venderbroeck. They have pioneered much of the refinements that have moved M4.4 tuning on non-stock setups forward.

M4.x has no provision for controlling VVT, never mind tuning for it. You can check in the Tuners Rejoice thread to see if anyone is working on that. 

Have you freed the bottom end? No point looking at head options if you need a motor. HG doesn't seize the piston rings, unless it was left sitting with coolant/water for extended period. Fill the bores with trans fluid & let it sit - try then to rock the crank back and forth gently - if you are very lucky it will come free & you can then inspect the full bores for wear.

Plenty of threads covering the use of RN heads in N motors, so do a search & post back with specific intelligent questions if indeed there are any after reading up.

Been working on the X1/9.

Got the LH2.4 conversion done after quite a bit of futzing with the crank trigger. Using T6 injectors (24lb), 016 MAF & eurosport spec adjustable FPR off my V70.

had to replace the clutch & brake master cylinders over the weekend. Still not properly bled yet

figured out the V70 washer pump & grommet fit the X1/9 washer tank also :)

Very nice!!!!!

Now, where are the pics of the barn that will become your workspace?? :)

5 hours ago, apeacock said:

Just the oem kit! Hammers couldn't do it. We used the grease and the splines were free of anything big. Glad I changed it. Stock one was toast.

Edit: we got it started by hand and needed the press to get it in the rest of the wag. 

Interesting. No sign of damage to the splines on the diff? Which PN collar did you use? I wonder if they have updated the tolerance to reduce wear....

Nice!

Did you buy the PDV collar? Stock Volvo unit should not have needed any encouragement for installation..

11 hours ago, turbobrick said:

Why would it being flat over a small surface make it any less prone to failure in a system that has to maintain both vacuum and positive pressure?

At this point I don't know what the monkey you are going on about. The MAP is seated in a brass bung threaded into the intercooler tank. The JB weld is used to secure the webbing & standoff that the MAP is located with. It's not going anywhere.

9 hours ago, turbobrick said:

i've used JB weld on plastic end tanks before, don't get me wrong it will hold.  But it was a temporary solution, the Oil that is thrown accumulates where ever there is any kind of crack/depression and it will wear down the plastic.  Just seems like you're introducing a point of failure to the system, this is no longer fitting into a cast piece and you're pushing quite a bit of pressure at it.  How did the stock solution mount in?  was it threaded?  

I'm not being critical of your work or your solution it just surprised me this is what people opt to do when swapping intercoolers.

If you noticed, I threaded a bung into the intercooler. The JB weld has that additional surface area to secure the outer plate. The JB weld is not securing an end tank - that would be an entirely different issue, and not something I personally would consider. The pressure over that small surface area is nothing like the overall dynamic pressure passing through the system.

On March 23, 2016 at 11:47 AM, apeacock said:

Took a minute today to install the new detent and the reverse light switch/detent. 

Thought I was having trouble shifting at first and then I switch the cables on the shifter itself. Seems to work great, really slots into each gear and as AndyB5 has said to me it's hard to hit reverse when going to 6th. 

Did you transfer the firewall grommet from the old cables? I couldn't get the C30 grommet to line up no way no how. Slit the sheath on one side & then siliconed the slot after proper cable alignment

WTF IS GOING ON ON THIS poking SITE. IMG TAGS DON"T WORK NOW?????

Is that for the rad hose mod required when using the P1 version M66 in a P80? I don't know the details on that...

On March 27, 2016 at 8:56 PM, turbobrick said:

seems like it would be easier and more legit to make a pipe for the map sensor and cut the silicone vs modifying a plastic end tank??  

More Legit? Not really. Then you need a coupler between the intercooler and the pipe, and another coupler & pipe.... The silicone hose from the intercooler to the TB doesn't have enough length before the bend to do that. Modifiying an end tank is no biggie if you are careful.