Weird, I guess the one control valve coil I measured had some corrosion or poor solder joints that caused it to meter out at 35 ohms rather than 30.
There's probably a good bit of leeway for actual value. It probably just has to act as a load to cause enough of a voltage drop to that pin from the 12 volt source when its pulled to signal ground within the ecu.
I was thinking along the same lines about where to install the resistors.
If I had the relay wiring in place in the harness, I probably wouldn't have bothered soldering it into the ecu to test it.
Probably would have just soldered pieces of wire onto the resistor leads and spliced into the harness with scotch-locks.
Although, if you put both resistors and the diode inside of the ecu, you should end up with a non-SAS ECU that could be installed in any car with a similar drivetrain.
Its kind of a pain to solder on pin B38 since its on the bottom but not impossible, it just takes some patience.
I used a really long, thin iron and gently bent the pins on either side to get the clearance.
I used 1 watt resistors for both without any problems.
But I should have actually measured what the max current draw was on the actual control valve and done the math to figure out what worse case would be.
By a quick calculation, assuming a drop of 12 volts across the coil, would equal 0.4 amps. So close to 5watts.
Since the ECU sinks the pin to ground, the resistor shouldn't have to dissipate that much power.
It's not doing work like the solenoid coil, unless I'm looking at it wrong.
It's been a while since circuits class.