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First thing I made it to this year. Rainy but fun at the Euro meet 2023

Last months we’ve been very busy at Johann’s workshop, aka Area 34. Cleaning, sorting, checking the cars, etc. Status update on Johann’s heritage: - SDM (the OG N/A racecar ☝🏼); runs and drives. Needs a belt (16 years old, but still looks brand new😅). Needs a seat swap, lots of tiny details and a good cleanup. Had a backfire at first start so it became a 2 cylinder while the Jenveys switched in a save mode. Took us a few headaches to find out. It’s loud, it’s fast, it’s nuts. - SD11; 855 with 4T4, M66, VST; sold - 850 Carrier (6 wheeler); failed inspections two years ago. Couple of days work and then it should be good to go. Needs calipers, front axle…Runs and drive. Finding a good place for inspections is hard, it’s a odd size vehicle. Datsun 180b; first run in 12ish years yesterday. Fitted with a new battery and found out that the ignition didn’t work, as we later found out Johann stated that fault in a old topic in 2012. Needs inspection and a new rms. Square tires, limited interior. When the 18t starts to spool at 3000tpm, the earth stops rotating. Crazy little car. D2 (n/a 10v in Porsche green); might become a parts car of the carrier. 850 ERC (CY rallycar) ME7 N/A, to be determined. Opel Blitz with the T5 will be sold without the engine. Really nice to work with Johanns sons and his dear long time friend Zippo (Maarten) on his old projects. ❤️

I will.👍🏼

When I see the line ‘2 years later’, my brain says it with the SpongeBob voice over… anyone else? 🫣

and we're back ...

More updates please.

The fact there are threads like this that are still open from 2018, and others, but yet the one in OT got closed. lol

Responding to a 6 year old post and his advice is to tell the original poster to reach out to a forums, while on a forum.

BOTTOM LINE UP FRONT: '98 S90, 157k on chassis, set up to run an LS3. NO DRIVETRAIN OR EXHAUST IN THE CAR. $1,250. TONS of extras included. Located in Boston, MA. DETAILS: HISTORY - '98 Volvo S90 with Ross Converse-swapped LS3. Bought car in 2010 or so, reverse gear went out in ~2013 so naturally the fix would be to v8 swap it 🙂Swap completed by Ross in 2014. The car was my daily driver until about 2016, when the 6L80E started slipping (it was unmodified except for the torque converter, unlike the engine mated to it). She was 95%+ completed at the time of failure... I hadn't touched the exterior (oxidized roof and a small dent in the rear) plus I needed to fix the coolant temp sensor not sending to the factory gauge and add my stereo of choice and some gauges. The car sat waiting for me to have time to work on her, being cranked occasionally and driven around the block from 2016-2018. Then we moved to a new location and a new home (with no garage). As the car sat, I discovered that Audi makes fun cars and they'll put the V8 in there for you, so the incentive to finish the project diminished considerably. You can guess the rest of the sob story, as it sat for the past five years, occasionally being started and run around the block. Finally, I decided we needed a pickup truck, and that pickup truck will need an LS motor, so I've decided to yank the mill out of the Volvo and put it to use. SPECS & PARTS - This is by no means a complete list as most of it is from memory, but it should give you a good idea that little expense was spared in this initial build, and many of the included "go-fast" parts alone are worth the asking price, notwithstanding the car they come with. POWERPLANT: Block & trans pulled from a 2011 Camaro SS w/ about 11k miles at the time, bone stock. Transmission does have a slightly higher stall speed torque converter... nothing outlandish as it was a DD. HPTuners flashed and tuned ECU set up as a standalone. LS3 was a converted L99 (again... Camaro SS automatic) that had AFM/DOD disabled/deleted but that kept Variable Valve Timing. ECU, wiring harness, and mounts will stay with the vehicle (I need new ones for the truck swap), so just drop in a new motor and go. DRIVETRAIN: A few added chassis braces (strut tower, lower brace, etc) are the only suspension upgrades IIRC. The wheels shown have decent winter tires on them. A/V & INTERIOR: Interior is basically stock. Wrinkled door cards, a spot of chewing gum or something on the back hat shelf, some sagging headliner above the doors, but otherwise in very good condition for the age. Trunk is outfitted with a custom 3-panel enclosure to hold an Alpine 12" sub on one side, a tool/utility kit on the other, and a fire extinguisher in the middle. The middle is removable so you can use the ski pass-through. This is a bit of a weird thing to brag about, but the interior actually smells really good. TO-BE-INSTALLED PARTS & SPARES: I have a custom rear big brake kit and a custom bumper & lower lip that are truly one-of-a-kind, blending the S90 look with the V70R. Tons of original printed service manuals for every subsystem of the chassis and many other small parts and pieces. It's all or nothing on the car and the parts. The price reflects that. I do not have the time or inclination to play pick-and-choose, and am willing to throw in hundreds of bucks worth of extra parts to make sure it's a "no-haggle" good deal for the buyer, and "time to turn the page" closure for myself. Contact me if you're interested and we can talk more; if you're seriously interested, I can dig up more details, take more photos, and so forth. Give her a good home and get this project across the finish line... she deserves it. Thanks for reading this far. -Jon

RIP

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-BRASS-SHIFTER-CABLE-BUSHINGS-850-S70-V70-C70-/250730473309 they were listed for a MR2 before but can’t find them 18 years later😂 I can find the spherical and somebody offered me those, but they’re 50€ The delrin/brass works perfect. Its for Johanns 850 btw, needs a bit of attention.

This is not what I expected to read when opening this thread. I cannot believe he's gone, but his legacy will live on. Thank you Johann, RIP.

Bump.

Yeah the link / page broke during one of the recent site refreshes. I think I have a copy of the original saved, let me look.

There are always far better candidates, but the old as fuck people voting in the primaries dictate who we are stuck with.

Yea iirc, you run 8awg solid from pin 3 directly into your peehole

REMEMBER.... ANY TAMPERING WITH FACTORY EMISSIONS SYSTEMS IS A VIOLATION OF FEDERAL AND STATE LAWS. PERFORM THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK There have been couple of threads lately http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/132158-sas-delete/page__hl__sas+delete and http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/139442-another-sas-delete-using-luckys-idea/ that have discussed ways to delete the SAS (air pump). I suggest you read them for background. This will be strictly a write up of 2 ways to accomplish this. This has been a joint effort with Volvospeed members IPD-Lucky and Flaco both contributing to this mod and obviously they both deserve a lot of the credit. It appears that a diode (Radio Shack #1N4003) connected between pins A32 and A37 of the ECU will cause the ECU to "think" that the airpump system is fully operational. The only parts of the airpump system you need to LEAVE installed are the airpump relay and the solenoid valve. They both need to have there connectors connected. Everything else can be removed. Here is a picture of the scematic showing what we are doing, notice the direction of the diode, that is important.... The mod can been done one of two ways. Either inside the ECU or in the harness directly below the ECU. To do the wiring IN THE HARNESS UNDER THE ECU, first you need to prepare the diode (radio shack #1N4003). I soldered it to a short section of wire.... Then attach a section of heat shrink to protect it and mark the direction that the current flows.... .... Then remove the ECU and the plastic housing.... Then you can access the harness and install the diode between A32 (GN-SB wire) and A37 (BL-P wire). DO NOT cut either of the wires. You can install the diode with a Scotch-Lock or the way I did it was to just slice away some of the insulation from the wire and solder the diode to it. Then I taped up the soldered connection. Just make sure the diode is pointing in the right direction.... Put it back together and that's it. I like doing it this way so the mod stays with the car, even if you swap ECU's. I would get a little nervous opening up a stage 3 IPD ECU that I just bought, to do it inside. Wouldn't want to chance screwing that up! To do the wiring INSIDE THE ECU, first remove the ECU and open it up. Bend the 4 little tabs up. Then swing the hold down lever around and out of the way. You may need to pry it up slightly to do this.... Once you're inside it's very simple, just find A32 and A37 and solder the diode in place. Again make sure the diode is pointing in the right direction.... Secure the cover and re-install the ECU in the car. That's it! I have one car with the wiring done under the ECU and one car with it done inside the ECU. They have only been done for a short time so I guess we'll say it's experimental at this point. The mod in this thread http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/139442-another-sas-delete-using-luckys-idea/ was on my car for well over a month with no CEL. So it can also be done that way.

Jon (survolvo)