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Faultywarrior - PERMA-BANNED

In the wake of recent media events, I wanted to take a second to wish you all a happy holiday. In addition, know this time of year brings an increased level of stress and depression in some individuals. While the easy thing to do is shrug it off, if you know people like this personally you should take a moment to reach out. At the end of the day, no one person can save the world, but each individual has the potential to change another persons life. I am grateful to have anyone here who is reading this, and am personally available if anyone just needs to talk. Hope you all have a safe holiday, and try not to get wrapped up in the media BS which will just drag you down.

REMEMBER.... ANY TAMPERING WITH FACTORY EMISSIONS SYSTEMS IS A VIOLATION OF FEDERAL AND STATE LAWS. PERFORM THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK There have been couple of threads lately http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/132158-sas-delete/page__hl__sas+delete and http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/139442-another-sas-delete-using-luckys-idea/ that have discussed ways to delete the SAS (air pump). I suggest you read them for background. This will be strictly a write up of 2 ways to accomplish this. This has been a joint effort with Volvospeed members IPD-Lucky and Flaco both contributing to this mod and obviously they both deserve a lot of the credit. It appears that a diode (Radio Shack #1N4003) connected between pins A32 and A37 of the ECU will cause the ECU to "think" that the airpump system is fully operational. The only parts of the airpump system you need to LEAVE installed are the airpump relay and the solenoid valve. They both need to have there connectors connected. Everything else can be removed. Here is a picture of the scematic showing what we are doing, notice the direction of the diode, that is important.... The mod can been done one of two ways. Either inside the ECU or in the harness directly below the ECU. To do the wiring IN THE HARNESS UNDER THE ECU, first you need to prepare the diode (radio shack #1N4003). I soldered it to a short section of wire.... Then attach a section of heat shrink to protect it and mark the direction that the current flows.... .... Then remove the ECU and the plastic housing.... Then you can access the harness and install the diode between A32 (GN-SB wire) and A37 (BL-P wire). DO NOT cut either of the wires. You can install the diode with a Scotch-Lock or the way I did it was to just slice away some of the insulation from the wire and solder the diode to it. Then I taped up the soldered connection. Just make sure the diode is pointing in the right direction.... Put it back together and that's it. I like doing it this way so the mod stays with the car, even if you swap ECU's. I would get a little nervous opening up a stage 3 IPD ECU that I just bought, to do it inside. Wouldn't want to chance screwing that up! To do the wiring INSIDE THE ECU, first remove the ECU and open it up. Bend the 4 little tabs up. Then swing the hold down lever around and out of the way. You may need to pry it up slightly to do this.... Once you're inside it's very simple, just find A32 and A37 and solder the diode in place. Again make sure the diode is pointing in the right direction.... Secure the cover and re-install the ECU in the car. That's it! I have one car with the wiring done under the ECU and one car with it done inside the ECU. They have only been done for a short time so I guess we'll say it's experimental at this point. The mod in this thread http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/139442-another-sas-delete-using-luckys-idea/ was on my car for well over a month with no CEL. So it can also be done that way.

I do this about once a year so the OGs have seen this, but for the new people I pose something to think about: Think back to when you were a young kid. What did you want to be when you grew up? It was probably something you may consider unreasonable now. A firefighters, astronaut, super hero, princess whatever. The title is not important, but what is important is the reasons why. At the end of the day it was probably the virtues. Loyalty, bravery, responsibility, whatever those traits were think about them. Now think about the way you are living your life now? Would the 7 year old version of you be happy with who you are? I think very few of us could truthfully answer yes. For those who say no, what was the issue? Do you not find those desirable traits anymore, or is it an issue of responsibility or social dogmas? Maybe the world just doesn't feel as shiny and new to you anymore. Whatever the case is, why sit back and justify falling short on a childhood dream? So few dreams can be realized why not take the easy ones. No one says you cannot have the traits of a super hero and the job title of loan officer, or the responsibility and glamor of a princess and the title of service manager. With so many things apparently wrong in the world around us, why not take a look at the world within us and expand on what we can. Its too easy on a day to day basis to make excuses. All of us have a nagging regret in the back of our mind. Maybe something we didn't do or someone we screwed over but justified it and say it was so long ago it doesn't matter anymore. Maybe it doesn't matter, but fixing yourself can be the start of fixing everything around. Take it for what you will guys,

This is the C30 I bought to replace the XR back in September. 91K, M66. Had to drive almost 5 hrs out into PA to get it. Basic handling mods are lowered (Eibach ProSport), stiffer rear sway (CorkSport/ Mazdaspeed3), modified front camber with readily available kit from Whiteline. Grille was plastic-dipped. Wheels were meant for the XR. Advanti Hybris 18x8, ET45 w/235/40x18 Kumho Cosmetics - sill decals R-Design rear spoiler - only available plain so I had to prime / paint / this CEIKA large six pot 330mm rotors came off the XR straighten back plates revised brackets CEIKA Rears will go on, once I get the modified hardware for the eBrake hydraulics. Have to flip the balance tubes, since the R caliper is now L, and vice-versa Some broken shit - didn't see it at the used car dealer - they paid for the parts, however. RedTail SS Exhaust tips intended for the XR and R Design lower lip That was going to be about the extent of it, for the time being. Then... someone on C30Crew stripped all the Elevate goodies off their 2012 to trade it in..... deal was too good to pass up. Also Porche 70mm throttle body. I had it machined down to better fit the Elevate intake hose Air filter +piping, Turbo outlet - IC - intake all installed Changed the hard plastic line to the Elevate MAF-turbo pipe - the stock section was too short & pulls the manifold fitting at an awkward angle (IMO) added a QR fitting to the plenum for the boost gauge before I installed it.. routed the lines along the firewall, used the SUR&R heat wrap I had bought for the fuel lines on the XR.. Mototec 3" DP (from EuroSportTuning) installed Currently running the Elevate tune for K04 with all his bolt on mods. Another C30Crew member makes this shroud to fit a Boost Gauge - using the dual boost from the XR. I'll add an EBP bung to the K16 manifold. Bung & line are SS K16 & injectors, tune will go in in the spring.

2 months ago I was made aware of a very clean Silver '98 V70R that had been totaled due to a bent rim and subframe. The owner wanted to sell the car for the buy back price from the insurance company, as long as the car would go to a loving owner. I checked out the car out and knew I had to have it. $850 later and it was mine! I’ve had my white 850 for 8 years. I’ve learned the majority of what I know today directly and indirectly due to that car. In the process of learning I made a lot of questionable and irreversible modifications. I want this V70R to be modified with attention to detail and quality. My aim for this car is a reliable, high horsepower car that retains all of its comforts, and feels confident at speed/handling/braking. The end goal is to swap the engine from the 850 into the V70R with a target of 500AWHP. I haven’t decided on the final turbo setup, but I will be upgrading from the 20G. First thing up was the fuel system. I never want to worry about fuel delivery problems but the stock AWD fuel system is very hindered from the factory. Directly proceeding the stock fuel pump is a nozzle orifice with a 4mm outlet! After this orifice the fuel has to make 2 90º bends in under an inch at which point the line size is 8mm ID to the fuel rail. I decided to replace the in tank fuel line with a 10mm ID hard steel line with smooth bends. Then 6AN stainless steel line from the sender to an Aeromotive FPR. To facilitate the fuel modifications I decided to remove the entire rear subframe. I wanted to take the time to inspect all of the bushings and replace any rotted fuel lines. Luckily, being a Colorado car its entire life there was no rust and all the bushings and fuel lines looked to be in excellent condition. I brass brazed a 6AN fitting to the end of the 10mm steel line. Then brazed the entire assembly to the new sender top. I know it isn’t pretty, but this is the first time I’ve ever brazed; the fittings are solid and leak free. The stock plastic fuel pump housing is held in alignment with a spring, this spring is retained with a slip washer and I wasn’t confident that this slip washer would remain put and removal and installation, so I decided to thread the end of the fuel return and use a nut. Interstingly, I had two senders and they had different diameter fuel returns. The one on the left is from my V70R the one on the right is from a 2000 XC. I elected to use the larger diameter return. I used an Aeromotive stealth pump and fabricated and extension piece to center the pump inlet in the housing. All finished. Coming directly off the sender I have a right angle 6AN fitting. The fitting is very tight, but clears the body with enough room to allow for movement of the fuel tank. Luckily the 6AN fits in the stock undercarriage fuel line carrier. I used a Holley 100GPH billet fuel filter which fits neatly under the car. Purely for cosmetics, I converted the stock return line to braided line right at the transition to the engine bay. I installed an Aeromotive 13129 right above the A/C lines. For the time being I’m using a 5AN to 6AN straight adapter for the fuel rail. This is a temporary solution until I weld a 6AN bung to the fuel rail. Next up was the suspension. I know that there is a very limited amount of options for the rear of a P80 AWD and I wasn’t very excited at the prospect of paying upwards of $1,300 for half of my suspension setup so I decided to cobble together my own. I started with Kaplhenke’s rear coilover spring and bumpstop retainer setup. I went with 350# 8” springs. For the shocks I used QA1 adjustable shocks originally intended for the front of a C5/C6 Corvette. The Corvette front corner weight is approximately 875 lbs, which should be around the same weight as the rear of a P80 AWD. The compressed and extended height also happens to be almost identical at 16.19”/11.2”. The lower mounting point is a ‘T-bar’ mount, and although the Corvette mounting bolts are much too close together to bolt up to a P80, QA1 makes a 5” T-bar mount which can modified to bolt up directly, the mounting ears must be widened by 1/8". The shocks have a single knob for adjustment, but the knob adjusts both rebound and compression simultaneously. For those who want more adjustability they also offer a double adjustable variant. With the car on a lift adjustment is extremely easy. I haven’t tried adjusting with the car on the ground, but I don’t think it would be very hard at all. The Kaplhenke perch and spring setup was $345 and the shocks were $319, so the whole setup was less then $670! I also installed IPD sway bars front and rear. I decided to run a coilover setup for the front as well. I was given a pair of TA Technix coilovers for free and decided to use them as a base. In their stock form they gave the worst ride I had ever experienced in any vehicle I had been in. They use terrible 6” springs that bind with anything over 1” of travel. The springs are ridiculously stiff and the shocks horribly underdamped. I stroked the shaft by hand and could move the shaft in and out with just my index finger… Anyways, I decided to try out the struts with the stock inserts just to see how they would do. I plan on placing Koni adjustable inserts in the bodies in a short time. I used a set of high travel (low stack height) 9” 350# springs with Kaplhenke upper mounts and Luxesteer™. It almost felt sacrilegious pairing these beautiful mounts with Technixs, but it’s only temporary. To get decent ride height I had to use the helper spring from the Technix. I will be going to a dual spring setup in the future, so the helper is only temporary. That’s it for this installment, check in next week for brakes!

Two Turtles - 30 days for trying to hit on me. Edit - Perm-banned

While Frankensteining a junkyard dash and my old one I decided to fix some of the common problems the 850 interior has. I removed all of the better upholstered parts to the grey vinyl to black. All of the plastic is extremely fragile. (I also reinforced the typical mounts with metal rivetted and epoxied into place) Using parts of the junked dash I cut out side caps to cover the common de-laminated vinyl on the sides of the dash. once you peel the old vinyl off of theses caps you are left with a rough surface that can then be sanded and painted with SEM Landau Black to create an OEM looking piece for both sides. I added hex screws to complete the look but just attaching them with epoxy or 3M tape should be sufficient. If you leave a lip on the front edge of theses pieces they fit nicely between the dash and door weatherstripping. The next issue is the top plastic portion of the dash that cracks from the sun or trying to remove the dash pad. Even the best dashboard I could find in the junkyard had some cracks, and even if you manage to find a perfect one its only a matter of time until it breaks. I created a template of this portion and a Rhino/CAD file for laser-cutting. I can upload the file if someone else wants to attempt to do this, but there is one curve I would probably tweak If I were to do this again. I was advised against making this part from PVC and chose lexan. It maintains all of the defrost holes, VIN and climate sensor windows, and even an R logo for posing. Again this was painted with SEM Landau Black and then attached to the dash with plastic weld epoxy. Make sure to glue every little portion! There were a couple small spots I missed and If I left the car out in the sun the lexan started to warp upwards in these spots. I snuck in some plastic weld after and it has been fine since, Its just much easier to do right the first time around. The portion that flares up near the windshield was covered in an adhesive black weatherstripping from Home Depot. The last part involves the shifter boot for an M56 swap. Initially I combined a leather MOMO Endurance boot with the stock boot hidden underneath it, but it never looked perfect and was coming undone. I then decided to go a different route and separated the rubber bellows out from the OEM manual boot and cut out a black PVC sheet to hold the bellows down. The plastic "clip" thing originally between the volvo boot and knob was separated and reinstalled on the shifter rod under the rubber bellows to hold it in place up top. After conditioning the rubber it cleaned up nicely and looks pretty stock. For the knob I used a MOMO automatico and removed the button and replaced it with a shaved down shift pattern from a M56 Volvo knob. Combined with some heavy washers under the pattern cap and Momo's black endurance adapter, It makes a very nice weighted shift knob. This was version 1.0: (You can see the black dash panels here) Sorry for the awful pictures, and will try to post better ones when I get a chance.

From the ashes a fire shall be woken...

longbeach. iboost 24 hrs. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Nobody likes mike. probably due to the fact he is a giant douche.

Hi! This is my little s40 t4 from 1998 year. It has now about 700hp / 700nm with 3.0bar boost pressure. Here you can find more specs in english: http://www.garaget.org/?car=92953 - B4194T2 engine fully rebuild with OEM parts / 8250rpm rev limiter / RE85 fuel - JE Forged pistons 81.5mm / 8.7:1 / 1878cc - Cylinder head with stock 31/27mm valves (6mm) and mild porting - Motor Nord H-profil rods 139.5mm - Holset HX40 Billet 66/68mm 20# T3 divided - Turbosmart Comp-gate 40mm HP (40psi / 2.8bar springs) external v-band wastegate - Custom divided T3 exhaust manifold - Custom 3.5" RST exhaust with 3 silencers - Autotech intake cam 11.35mm 240 (1.0mm) TDC 2.0mm - Autotech exhaust cam 11.35mm 227 (1.0mm) TDC 1.0mm - Adjustable camshaft wheels - Dual valve springs (30kg / 84kg@11.5mm) - EV14 1720cc injectors with 2bar fuel pressure (2200cc 3bar) - Civinco SA1000 standalone ecu - Stock T4 wastespark coils and BCR8ES spark plugs (0.5mm gap) - Garrett FMIC 600x300x89 intercooler - M56 gearbox with Quaife LSD - 707-pressure plate and 850R clutch disc & flywheel - Polyurethan lower engine mounts - Adjustable Bosch fuel pressure regulator 2.0bar - Walbro 255lph + Walbro 330lph + 1L Fuel surge tank - Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump (Fuel pump voltage 13.5V->17.5V) - Custom Dual Plenum Intake manifold + 58mm ported T4 throttle body - Custom 1.5ltr crankcase breather box with 30mm line to outside - 4" aluminium intake pipe + K&N RD-1460 air filter - Aluminium radiator - Quaife torsen differential in gearbox Standing mile 2014 = 308km/h. Here is how it runs on 4.gear:

Some updates. About half way done with interior now. I will be replacing whole dash to charcoal and wood trim and all door panels next. I reupholstered headliner and swapped the rest of the trim panels to clean charcoal one, also replaced all the grab handles and sun visors with minty tan pieces from an XC in Lynnwood PnP. It looks kinda odd with charcoal, tan, brown and grey pieces now, but will be much better when all said and done "fixed" headliner Brush worked great removing backing foam remains I went with brown/tan houndstooth fabric, it's not optimal headliner material and didn't want to stretch around bigger crevices, but it worked ok in the end Got some decent shots couple days ago too. I haven't washed the car since May so the car is filthy 960 lip And some of the interior

DSC_5989.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr DSC_6004.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr

Over the years I’ve repaired and/or replaced at least 5 dashboards in 850s. I’ve used a number of repair techniques and by trial and error have found that only one type of repair is a permanent solution. This thread contains a discussion of the various repair methods and a short write up of the best solution: fiberglass. This write up can also be used for x70 dashboards since they are so similar to 850s. 850 dashboards suffer a huge design flaw – the mounting points. They are made out of plastic and due to age and wear and tear, they WILL deteriorate and break over time. Unless your 850 has been driven only on smooth roads for its lifetime, I guarantee you have at least some mounts that are broken. Unfortunately, when the mounts break, it puts more stress on the structure of the dash because the weight of the dash is no longer evenly distributed. The increased stress, coupled with driving on bumpy/poorly maintained roads, inevitably leads to cracking in various parts of the dash structure. Many with broken dash mounts will also have cracks in the long, black plastic piece at the top of the dash adjacent to the windshield. The long black plastic piece is attached to the structural parts of the dash, so when the structure cracks, so does that piece. Here’s a picture showing the stress cracks along the structure of the dash. You can bet there is cracking on the backside of the structure of the dash as well. More on that below. If you are repairing a used dashboard, you will very likely need to repair/reinforce more than just the mounts. You’ll need to address the structure as well. On a new dashboard, the structure is obviously intact, so you could probably get away with just reinforcing the mounts. But new dashboards are virtually impossible to find – we’re talking about 20+ year old parts here. Repair methods that do not work: -Metal strap method on dash mounts: there are many write-ups that show people reinforcing the mounts by attaching metal straps or other metal-based supports. The metal is attached to the structure of the dash with rivets, screws, etc. DO NOT DO THIS. This is the absolute worst thing you can do and it WILL ruin your dash over time. I have personally tried this repair method, and it resulted in a destroyed dashboard. The dash is quieter and more secure at first, but over time, it will break. The problem with this method is that when you drill/screw into the dash to attach the metal supports, you’re actually weakening the plastic structure of the dash. Over time, cracks WILL develop at the drilling/securing points, which will result in further cracking throughout the structure, and ultimately a ruined dash. In short, do not screw or drill into the plastic of dash. Example pics: AGAIN, DO NOT DO THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ -Gluing/epoxying the dash mounts: this method will only work well if you have zero cracks in the structure of the dash. As mentioned, 99% of you are going to have at least some minor cracking around the dash structure. Reinforcing the mounts is only a band aid fix. The fact that the structure is impaired means it cannot properly support the weight of the dash, or the force of bumps in the road, and it will deteriorate over time. Your mounts will eventually crack off of the dashboard and you’ll be left with a dashboard that “floats” in the cabin, moving around and rattling like crazy. -JB Weld: I used this on one of my dashboards to reinforce the mounts AND structure. I applied liberal amounts of JB weld on the dash mounts and structure, basically anywhere that looked like it could crack. It has held up for several years now, but I am not confident enough to say that it’s a permanent fix. I’ve seen JB weld crack in other applications, so it’s not the best solution. Permanent solution: fiberglass. Use fiberglass to reinforce the dash mounts and the structure of the dash. In essence, you’re building a dash within a dash (queue inception). The first two pictures are not mine, but they provide a good bird’s eye view of the areas you want to reinforce. I’ve inserted red arrows showing some of the areas you want to reinforce on the top of the dash. On the underside of the dash with the mounting tabs, it’s self explanatory. The remaining pics are from my repair. The first group of pictures shows the condition of the dash when I got it. The tabs were broken off, there were holes in the back of the dash, etc. Obviously, before fiberglassing anything, you’ll need to attach the mounting tabs to the dash. I used super glue. My go-to superglue is Loctite super glue “professional.” It’s the absolute strongest and quickest drying glue I’ve worked with. It’s awesome stuff, but it’s extremely strong, and very easy to accidentally glue your fingers, clothing, etc, so be careful. Once the mounting tabs are in place and everything is dry, you can move on to the fiberglass. You’ll want to use coarse sandpaper to rough up the areas you intend to fiberglass. This promotes adhesion. I didn’t sand the mounting tabs though, as they were too delicate. As seen in the pics, in addition to fiberglassing the dash structure and around the mounting tabs, I fiberglassed the mounting tabs themselves. The fronts, the sides, and the bottoms. The result is an extremely strong tab that will outlast the car. However, once the resin sets you’ll have to sand down and smooth out the mounting tabs. A dremel with a sanding wheel attachment works well for this. You’ll have to drill a hole in each tab for where the bolt goes through since fiberglass now covers the hole. Once you’ve smoothed out the tabs, make sure you test-fit the screw brackets that slide on to the tabs. You want to make sure the brackets fit firmly and the screw holes of the brackets lines up with the holes of the mounting tabs. Other areas you should reinforce include all of the mounting points between the dashboard and upper dash pad. I did not use fiberglass on these areas due to the shape of the mounting point, and also because I was concerned about adding too much thickness. If the reinforcement on the mounting point is too thick, you will end up with a gap between the dashboard and upper dash pad. You could use JB weld or other epoxy, but I used a product called plast-aid. Available on amazon. It’s the best plastic repair product I’ve tried – and I’ve tried many different products. I also used plast-aid to repair the upper dash plastic piece by the windshield – more on that below. Pics of the repair: Now, this last part is optional. I tried to repair the upper plastic part of the dash that sits against the windshield. I used plast-aid, which worked awesome. It was a huge amount of work, and you have to be very careful because the plastic is so thin and delicate. Unfortunately, it ended up being a huge waste of time, but I’ll get to that in a bit. My goal was to repair all of the cracks and holes in the plastic and end up with a smooth part that looked new. I almost did it. You can see my progress in the pics. It was looking pretty good… Obviously, the first step is super gluing any pieces that cracked off Now to the bad part :( . I sprayed the plastic piece with a coat of black SEM interior paint. For some reason, the repaired portions of the plastic stood out like a sore thumb. My next idea was to try and cover up these imperfections with some textured paint. So I sanded the area down, and sprayed the plastic with some rustoleum black textured paint. As soon as the paint hit the plastic, I heard loud cracks, looked down, and saw that some of the thinner cracking I had repaired was now re-cracked!!! I don’t know if there was a chemical reaction between the paint and plast-aid, or if the cold aerosol spray reacted with the plastic, or what, but the point is, it cracked. At that point, I was completely fed up with the repair, and decided to give up and simply use the extra dash cover trim plate I had purchased in a VS group buy a while ago. Maybe the result would have been different if I hand-painted the piece, but I guess we won’t know unless someone else tries it. Thanks for looking.

Gentlemen, I have been pretty quiet for a while but I wanted to share this new experience with you guys. A week ago I proposed to my girlfriend of 5 years and she accepted! Next week we are closing on our first home. This was a 6 month process for a few reasons. Neither of us like cookie cutter homes. Melissa needs her sunsets so city living was out. I needed a big garage to run my business out of. We finally found a place here in Springfield Ohio we both fell in love with. This thread will be a place where I will share things like building my business/man garage, remodeling, CAR PROJECTS, and other grownup shit. I'll post interior pics once we have the keys. The house sits in Springfield Township on about 1.6 acres. The house has an attached two car garage for Melissa's cars. The detached building is completely climate controlled with spectacular lighting. Interior space is 2,500sq/ft. Oh and this is the website for the biz. http://www.pvlautodetailing.com/

How about pics of the car as it stands ? Clean tool box and all but honestly, I want to see the car.

Car has been replaced.

This is nuts, I blame the site update for the failure.

Mike/Flyfishing3

I'll take some over the weekend this morning:

TyConn_S70 - 7 days for suggesting that another member should rape a young lady in order to fix his car.

Edited 06/11/2015: I originally purchased this car from my father back in 2005 for $7000 with 57,000 miles. It was not my first Volvo (244 DL I wish I still had), but it introduced me to the world of turbocharged Volvos. Here it is in its virgin state. I drove it as a daily while modifying it until last year when I decided to finally ditch the automatic transmission. Here are a few pictures of it along the way. 4/10/2010 ... Picked it up from Aaron's (thanks ajhehr) today as it now has a 5-speed M56h from a 02' C70 (thanks Mecay), Quaife ATB LSD (thanks Mogatu'r), KWV2 coilovers (thanks Zaitz), and TT ECU (thanks Adam/turbotuner). Took some pictures as it got a wash, and its a nice day. Going to leave it like this for a while and play with the TT and possible upgrade to a TD04HL once I get comfortable tuning. I'll probably get a dyno run in a few weeks to see where the tuned map is (saw 15 psi today). Anyone contemplating doing a 5-speed swap, its the way to go . Enjoy. And for giggles, the last picture I have of it since I haven't driven it for 26 months, and when we were an all Volvo family.

Canasian Mike

The last year I have been working, on and off, on an old milling machine. Posted about it >here. It's about the 412. A friend tried to repair the servo system but this didn't work out. Overthinking what to do I had two options. Either install a new Heidenhain compatible servo system and add a new control or retrofit the machine with something simpler. I think I would have preferred the Heidenhain option but besides the huge costs it would become a challenge to make it all work. I chose a cheaper option commonly used on older machines. It's called Mach 3. A control system running on top of Windows. Normally / Originally Mach 3 communicates with a controller though the parallel port. Controller itself often is a simple breakout board. A thing I didn't like. Another thing was that it is often used with stepper motors instead of servo's. After investigating the options I decided to go for an Ethernet based control. For the servo's I used drives from Delta. New pulley, motors and machined new motor plates, Whole machine needed to be rewired... Huge puzzle with the spindle drive but eventually got the darn thing to work. Cleaned and painted the spindle body work, But decided to leave the outside of the machine as old looking as it was. Bodywork was media blasted on the inside only and an industrial coating was put on to bring some light inside the machine. Needed transportation for the bodywork, And eventually had most of the machine back together, Made a panel for the controls, , Used an old touch screen monitor, Which makes it look like this now, Not completely finished but operational. After that it was time to tune the machine and start testing. Slowly getting familiar with the machine and so far it has been performing way beyond expectation.

Aaron - 7 days - I had too many PM's and texts from people who were upset with how Aaron is handling his "situation." He was also going through certain members' old posts who he doesn't like just to rep them down. This was after being warned about doing it. Someone has too much time on their hands.

Some progress with the renovation, Most of the brickwork is done, The bathroom floor needs to be removed to install floor heating before is can be rebuild. My oldest son doesn't like the traditional style and his new ground level bedroom had a very traditional look with low ceiling. Lot of wood cladding. I removed everything from the room including the low ceiling. Turned out the brick walls didn't run all the way to the roof. Outside wall was a double brick, cavity?, wall but only just above the low ceiling. Walls have been extended to the roof, a door leading to the bathroom was removed and drywall used for the ceiling to give it a bit more modern look. All done by people will skills.. I'm good at tearing things apart.. Needs to be said that there is no square angle in the house.. Paintwork in the high living room has begun. The ceiling has been sealed because there still was a lot of dust coming from seams in the ceiling even after thorough vacuum cleaning. On the right side of the fireplace there used to be a small bench nailed to the wall and floor. After removing it turned out the old oak floor didn't extend all the way to the wall. The carpenter did a great job repairing the floor. Most of the work in the house is done by a carpenter and his apprentice which is his son. The carpenters brother does the brick work but because of an illness he only works in the afternoons. Takes a bit different planning but I think the work has been progressing well. Like mentioned I try to as much of the removal work as possible myself. The apprentice prepares the work place for his uncle so he can immediately start with the work. The kitchen, A very tiny kitchen but only needed to make the food. With the old farm houses people were mostly living in what we call a living kitchen. The living itself was basically only used for special occasions and the Sunday. The living kitchen is somewhat larger, And will be left as is. Only the plaster work will be repainted. the woodwork will remain untouched. On the outside a new terrace will be build. I hired a gardener who started this week. A tree was in the way and the gardener suggested to cut the tree. I'm absolutely to tree hugger but I couldn't agree to cut this weird looking very old tree to pieces so I suggested to relocate.. Against all the advice.. Still had an old workhorse handy, Removed the tree, It's new home, And progress of the terrace,

Guess it's officially broken in now:

It's been a while, but I've been working on a new trinket in my spare time. Here it is: This gem is a little rough to look at still, but it makes up for that in functionality. Everytime I start my car and a sd card is inserted in the slot, it will: -Create a file with the current month day hour and minute as the filename. -determine the size of the frames that are coming in. -record the frames on the sd card -update the "last modified" timestamp of the file after every frame. And the thing that really makes this awesome is that it creates the log in the correct tunerpro .xdl format. So it can be loaded straight into TunerPro. I'm thinking of adding a usb port to make it a direct replacement for the vag com cable. I'll probably also add a piëzo speaker to signal for knock events and stuff like that for some added functionality. I'm still contemplating wether to put it all inside a obd plug housing, or to make a seperate housing with an optional obd extention attached to some screwheaders. After driving around with it for a bit I can say it really simplifies things. Just stick in the card, start the car and just forget about it. Leave it in for a week or a month, and it produces a neatly ordered row of logs for every drive you did.

Test fit on the driver side.

Had a baby boy

Startled me http://youtu.be/PvYP_d2S1Pg

Is you is or is you ain't my constituents?

fastassvolvo aka long beach 850. 7 days Permaban for sending a threatening PM to another member.

Here's the story behind my new-to-me 2000 V70 R. Its gonna be a long post, and picture heavy too! This thread will serve as a continuation of sorts of my 1999 V70 R build, which can be read here: The conclusion to that thread will come later this summer, as I will be pulling all the modifications of my 99 R, and transferring them to the 00 R. Now, onto the details of my new Venetian Red 00 R! My friend sent me the for sale ad on Facebook: Here's a couple of the photos from the listing: After spending a few weeks negotiating with the seller, I bought a one way flight to Denver, packed some tools in my bag (I did, however, forgot to pack underwear ) and went to visit some friends before picking up a car and driving it 1900 miles across the country back to New York!!! I landed in Denver Friday evening (May 12) in the early evening. While there, I got to check out the murals of the Denver Airport, and see all the other bits that are the basis for a long list of conspiracy theories. Here's how it sat when I picked it up from the seller at a shopping center a short walk from my friends apartment. Shortly after taking delivery of my R, I went on a hike in up Golden with my friends. The views were stunning to say the least. After lots of fun touring around the Denver area on Saturday, I packed my stuff into the car and started driving back to NY on Sunday morning (May 14th) with plans to stop at my friend's place in Cedar Falls, Iowa. Here are some photos from the drive Sunday. Nebraska was wide open, flat, and very easy to drive through: Drove through miles of turbines in Iowa (despite the picture being of a singular turbine). There's a Don Quixote joke here somewhere.... Cruising towards Cedar Falls, Iowa and got to watch the sun set Sunday's drive was about 800 miles, which took about 12 hours, and the drive home was off to a great, relatively easy start. Here's how my car sat outside my buddy's place in Iowa on Monday morning When I left Iowa Monday morning, my destination was headed to Anthony's (@apeacock) house near Buffalo, NY. Monday held about 850 miles of driving, which was about 13 hours of driving. Stopped for gas in PA. I had a hard time with card reader on the pumps though.... Made it to Anthony's around 10pm, took him for a quick test drive, and then face-planted into the extremely comfortable bed in his guest room. Monday morning before I left his house, Anthony took this photo of our wagons together Made good time on my way back to Troy on Tuesday morning - at this point, 300 miles seemed like a short drive to me I got to enjoy some really nice views in the mountains in western NY: Here's how the odometer when I made it home: The entire trip was 1960 miles, and I managed an average of 26.8 mpg at an average speed of 70 mph. All of this was calculated from the trip computer. And here's how my two wagons sat when I got the office on Tuesday at noon: Earlier tonight I got it registered in NY, so now the build can begin. Stay tuned, this should be a fun project and I'm very excited to get working on it

After

Just to be clear, I'm all the way up front, Matt B is on fighting so hard to stay on my wheel that he forgot which lane to ride in, and Fly Mike is represented by both of the slow cyclists because he is too large for one avatar.

I did! haha, but probably not what you were thinking. It's not Atacama, and I didn't reupholster it. I picked up somewhat tired tan V70R seats in California on my way back and after good cleaning they looked even worth. They were dyed at some point and most of that came right off with simple green and some elbow grease. So I decided to paint them, and since I had to pretty much redo everything I changed the color to BMW Modena for leather and Champagne for suede. I went with Leather Magic I didn't finish it all yet as I had to order more paint. It looks ok. Definitely better than it used to be, so I'm pretty happy about it.

Timo

Kevin:

EDIT:

Chronicles of my build......much detail around the work performed (lots of pics) Goals: Body & Paint Suspension Stage 0 Brakes As purchased 2 years ago. Black Interior / Factory 5 Spd / 112K on the clock First on the list, V70R bumper but I first want to get a color match on the paint. So, test spray the under-hood strut tower brace for a comp. Cleaned up to bare metal and in the booth ready to get hit with epoxy primer for the first coat Base Coat: Base coat applied Clear Coat gassing out in the sun We have a match Test spray out card confirms as well

Forgot to add the

A small update, Not that much progress on the 242. Have it running and drove a couple of hundred meters with the car. Interior and exterior still need finishing. Went on a short vacation trip with the family to Sweden. Same address as two years ago. Visited the Volvo museum again and also made a tour through the Volvo factory which was extremely interesting to say the least. Took a peak at the Polestar TTA race cars at their HQ on Sunday (..) TTA went testing a couple of days later and they were preparing their cars and loading everything on the trucks. I'm not a Silhouette fan but the amount of Volvo detail in the bodywork is very well done. The dimensions are correct. Headlights and rear lights are from the road going car. hard to imagine it is just a carbon fibre shell. Couple of days later we went to the Anderstorp race track to see the teams perform the first tests with these cars. Lucky for us the weather played nice also. Posted pics in We arrived home from the ~1000 km trip Saturday evening and the next morning while enjoying a cup of coffee and searching the web for the impossible I ran in to a Swedish ad of something I have been hunting for the last 5-6 years or so, maybe longer. I have had a picture of a very rare Volvo 850 for some 12 years or so and discovered this car in Sweden in 2007. Unfortunately, while negotiating a buy, the company went bankrupt.. On and off for about 6 months or so and with help from Emiel I have been trying to buy the car but in the end it didn't work out. In 2008 on a vacation trip to Sweden we made a 500 km tour one day to check if the car was still there and we found it on an abandoned lot. Car was an Alter 1 850 but it did have a T5 engine. Car was in bad shape. I don't know who the original coach builder was but as it appears the design was later sold to S.A.M. Steffansson Automotive AB. The well known Volvo tuning company. SAM build several of these transporters. Pictures of one have been on their site for some time but removed since. Cars were registered as "SAM Carrier", not a Volvo anymore. In 2009 I found another one on a Swedish trade site. This car was a newer '99 model V70 but the car was registered late 2005. It appears to be a SAM Carrier but it is registered under another name. Due to the weird tax regulations in my country a lot of tax had to be added if I wanted to import this car to the Netherlands which would make it an extremely costly exercise. A bit to costly for my liking and while overthinking the options the car was already sold. And now there was another ad. The original SAM Carrier of which pictures have been on SAM's site. Costly yes but not as much as the V70 model and little tax because it is a 2000 model. After so many years of searching I decided to take the plunge and contacted the seller. It tuned out we have missed the car by less than a mile during our Sweden trip... After making the arrangements I had to go visit Sweden again less than two weeks after we came back. I wanted to go pick up the car together with Emiel who, at the time, has helped me a lot trying to buy the black transporter. Unfortunately Emiel couldn't free his agenda after which my wife offered to drive with me together with the kids. Last Thursday we had a national holiday so the kids had some days off from school. The one complaint the wife did have was that she feared the long 1000 km drive home alone in the car or with one of the kids assuming one would drive together with me. While discussing my mother in law offered to go with us so she could keep some company on the way home. All nice but that meant father in law needed a seat also and 6 people don't fit an XC60... That was when my mother jumped in.. She owns but rarely drives a Lexus GX460 which happens to have 6 seats and she offered to take that car. Left home Wednesday afternoon with the intention to drive to Denmark and arrange a hotel but with the extreme traffic near Hamburg we only arrived near the Ferry at Puttgarden after 7 hours so we stayed overnight at a hotel in Germany. Next morning we were front row at the Ferry. And yes we had to park the car inside the ferry next to a train.. Arrived in Gothenburg in the afternoon. Quickly checked in at the hotel and went to the city to make the very short stay a bit worthwhile for the family. Friday morning we we up early and headed to the car dealer to go pick up the SAM Carrier. I was very nervous about the car and also the ride home not knowing what to expect. The car turned out to be in reasonable shape. The transporter part looked used but in good shape. The car part showed the standard 850 quirks like non functioning AC and some other minor glitches. The engine looked dry and ran nice. It was serviced according the seller. One of the rear brakes was touching though but I took my chances and drove with it anyway. Tuned out to be a jammed caliper after returning home. Near 11 AM we were heading home again. First kilometers on the highway started with a very moderate pace of 80 km/h to get used to this weird creature but it drove remarkably well. Almost like a KW equipped 850 sedan with iPD sways. Later on the speed went up to 110-115 km/h which turned out to be the car's sweet spot. After 200 km or so I upped the speed to 120-125 km/h and tried to maintain that speed for the remainder of the trip. The NA engine ran nice. Power is about adequate. Arriving at the toll booth of the Øresund bridge there was some confusion because one of the crew thought I had to pass the truck booth while another one said it was OK as a passenger car... The trip through Denmark went smooth and soon we arrived at the Ferry where I almost entered a passenger car check in lane with only 2.30 mtr width.. Car is 2.45... A wider lane was right next to it so that issue was solved quick. Car at ferry entrance, Not to much space inside the ferry, Last part of the trip went smooth although the clear headlights were plain rubbish. Arrived home just after midnight. Some more pics of the car, Without a load the rear axle it raised, Impression of the width, Will post some more later.