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The diagnosis provided by the vocom 88890300 is impressively accurate and remarkably swift, making it an invaluable tool for automotive troubleshooting. Its efficiency not only saves time but also enhances productivity, allowing users to quickly identify and resolve issues. I am thoroughly satisfied with this product, as it meets my expectations in both performance and reliability. Furthermore, the customer service team demonstrates a commendable level of professionalism, addressing every question I have with seriousness and attentiveness. This combination of an outstanding product and excellent support truly sets this experience apart.

Thats pretty exciting and awesome!

YEP. that's the guy.. and he's actually pretty well known as a bit of a "T-5R poacher" lol.. RIGHT NOW, there's a 278k mi yellow sedan out of NY on marketplace and i'd messaged the owner to inquire about some things done to the car and we'd got to talking.. he'd already been approached by this kid in the past and he knew who he was before i'd even mentioned his name and felt exactly as i did - that he strips salvageable examples and ruins T-5Rs and had no interest in selling him the car, nor providing him with any spare parts he'd had (another set of titans). he actually referred to him as an "A-hole" that doesn't know any better. this kid actually has a buddy who does something similar, but with less of a hard on for T-5Rs (in particular, but any P80R) and told me that they actually made a fake R and tried to sell it on marketplace. these dudes dont know anything other than stripping and i wouldn't trust either of them to put a car back together that would be road worthy for purchase. if any of you want to know their names or FB marketplace profiles, just DM me so i can save you the trouble from buying anything they've taken or created. i know this is a free country, but damn dude, who are these guys to be doing this and killing these cars or gatekeeping over anybody trying to put one back together in the name of preservation.. f-UUU- k these guys!

I think I came across him on marketplace. Younger guy? I have never been by his place, pretty sure he came here and bought a few things one time though ... I mean nothing illegal about what he is doing but I can see how it would rub you the wrong way ... I parted out a few VR's in my day but didn't hoard all the stuff for myself and only one of them was really save-able but it was on the rough side . . . Sounds like ya may be a little late now if you want to try and beat him at his own game or at least throw a stick in his spokes. speaking of late to the game that would be me if I ever want to possess an actual P80R .. prices are jacked up and I'm too cheap and don't drive very much anymore so my current wagon will likely last forever!

what do you think bro.. you're basically right down the street from me off rt44.. do you know the guy I'm talking about?

speechless in CT

The JPRO Diagnostic Service Kit is a comprehensive solution designed for heavy-duty vehicle diagnostics, making it an essential tool for fleet maintenance and repair professionals. At the heart of the kit is a second-hand Panasonic FZ-G1 I5 8G tablet, which comes pre-installed with the JPRO Professional Diagnostic Software. This rugged tablet features a 10.1-inch HD screen with a maximum display resolution of 1920 x 1200, powered by an Intel Core i5 processor and 8GB of memory, ensuring efficient performance and reliability in demanding environments. In addition to the tablet, the kit includes the JPRO DLA+ 2.0 Adapter Cable, which enables seamless communication with a wide range of vehicle systems. The heavy-duty vehicle cables, including both 6-Pin and 9-Pin connectors, allow for versatility across various truck models, while the medium-duty Type-B OBDII cables cater to popular brands like Ford, GM, Sprinter, Hino, Isuzu, Mack, and Volvo. To facilitate easy connectivity, a USB cable is also provided. All these components are conveniently organized in an adapter carrying case, making it easy for technicians to transport and access the tools they need for effective diagnostics. Overall, the JPRO Diagnostic Service Kit combines high-quality hardware and advanced software, ensuring that users can swiftly and accurately diagnose vehicle issues.

i just wanted to point out another variable to this T-5R thing that i hadn't considered before.. i was on marketplace over a month ago and saw a yellow T-5R sedan here in CT pop up.. it was listed as a 'parts car' and was in very rough shape. i was intrigued, so i contacted the guy about selling it as a whole and he said he had a bunch of T-5R parts he could help out with. i went to his home and it was a bit of a salvage yard. i showed up before he was out of work and looked the car over and it was ROUGH; to the point where it would cost more to put it back on the road (correctly) than it would be to just find another T-5R. he actually bought the car for parts for his existing, complete, yellow t-5R sedan. i became interested in his complete sedan and asked if he'd be willing to sell it. he said he'd have to have $8,000 for it. this car had over 230k mi and wasn't close to perfect. hood was discolored and had some rust spots. front bumper had some cracking. rear passenger door was dented in, an odd dent above the 'T-5R' badge, etc.. it was manual swapped and had a k24 though. as we're talking, he shares that he's bought entire cars 'for the wheels' or 'for the bumper' and even for a superficial walnut interior piece! he has a hard-on for T-5Rs, specifically, and bragged about all the parts he has for them, including like 3 sets of titan wheels, gold emblem floor mats, entire interiors and so on. i came to the realization that this dude is basically gatekeeping and i'd later looked into his marketplace account, and he's gutted T-5Rs to their chassis! it showed his history of selling 3 T-5R parts cars without titans, R bumpers, mats, etc.. this dude is single handedly buying every T-5R he can, so he can strip it for its one year only model year parts, and then try to sell the parts he took, for an outrageous price, to the person he is selling the parts car to, from the very same car he took the parts off of lol!! you would think i'd be happy (technically), as every T-5R he basically destroys, leaves one less complete example out there - making my car that much rarer.. but in fact, this is a terrible thing he is doing and it ruins the enthusiast community. he's not bringing these cars back, like Robert DIY on youtube - he's attempting to create a scenario where he's the only guy to have T-5R specific parts that he's the gatekeeper of, because he's smug and it makes him feel good to have some sort of power over the community.. i could see it as he spoke; i could see it as i looked around the property.. all these junk volvos needless to say, he never contacted me back about selling the 230k mi yellow sedan - which had inspired my search of the yellow wagon, i ultimately ended up purchasing. i did contact him, in spite, in all honesty, to low-key rub it in his face that i'd found something better, that he'd never get his grubby little hands on and he pretended to be happy for me for about 5 min before he stopped responding via text and marketplace lol. i played it off like i wanted an extra set of titan wheels for my purchase of the car as a 'just in case' and some other wear parts.. but he was no longer interested in the convo because he couldn't gatekeep a T-5R (or its parts) out there. the point of the story is this - there are ppl out there that are killing these cars as complete examples, calling themselves 'enthusiasts' when in reality what's going to happen is THIS: there wont be any cars left to demand the parts you took! you destroyed the hobby! now what?

The Volvo 88890300 Vocom Interface and VOCOM 2 88894000 Interface, in conjunction with the Premium Tech Tool (PPT) version 2.8.24, represent the latest advancements in diagnostic hardware for Volvo excavators, trucks, buses, engines, and various machinery. These tools are designed to enhance the efficiency of vehicle diagnostics, programming, and maintenance processes. The Vocom 2 interface serves as a critical communication bridge between the computer and the vehicle, enabling technicians to access and program parameters seamlessly. Notably, it empowers users to operate in both Level 2 and Level 3 without the need for a connection to central servers. This flexibility allows for effective troubleshooting and programming through Tech Tool (VCADs Pro) in either Normal or Development modes, ensuring that professionals can address complex issues with precision and ease. The integration of these technologies not only streamlines maintenance procedures but also optimizes vehicle performance, ultimately contributing to enhanced operational productivity.

Hello everyone! I'm currently experiencing some issues with my OEM Volvo Vocom II. After I install the driver, it typically works well for a day, but occasionally, when I restart my laptop, it loses communication with the device. I've checked the Vocom II configuration app, and under the advanced inspection section, it indicates that inbound traffic on UDP port 47 for VOCOM II location services is not possible. This is quite frustrating, as I rely on this tool for my work. Any suggestions on how to resolve this issue would be greatly appreciated!

As a new member of this community, I am thrilled to have found a wealth of valuable information that has already begun to enrich my experience. From insightful articles to engaging discussions, I quickly realized that this platform is a treasure trove of knowledge and support. I look forward to actively participating, sharing my own experiences, and learning from others as we navigate our shared interests together.

Bud its a free phone, dont fuck it to hard.

We had an accident (hit a deer on highway) out of town. A local mechanic removed the AC condenser and replaced the radiator so that we could drive back home. The AC condenser was not put back because the impact bar was bent and no enough place for the condenser. I've replaced the impact bar and got a new AC condenser. After checking online, I think there are three steps to replace the condenser.? Step 1. evacuate the system. Step 2. put back the condenser. Step 3. recharge the system. (I don't think I can do it myself. Will bring it to a mechanic shop.) My questions are: 1. Since the condenser has been removed for about three weeks. Probabaly no need for step 1? 2. Since the condensor has been removed for a relatively long time (~ 3 weeks), do I need any special treatment for the system before/after putting back the condensor?? 3. Should I worry about other parts of the AC? AC worked well before the accident and anything after the radiator looks untouched.? Thanks a lot!

It passed inspections two weeks ago! Didn’t disappoint at all. Few notes from the tech. Still a lot to do but passing inspections is a huge relief. A lot more pictures on my Instagram; @jodelj81 💚

Long story short, we hit a deer with our 2011 XC90 on a highway when traveling out of town. Got a mechanic to replace the radiator so that we were able to drive another 6 hours back home. Then it's my turn to work on the car. I was able to replace the impact bar, and was lucky enough to find the front bumper assembly from a junkyard and put it on. Got an AC condenser but still need to learn how to install it. The airbags were not triggered. But we got two warnings: "SRS airbag service urgent" and "Pass airbag off urgent". The airbag warning light is on. Is the dealer the only place to make sure the airbag system is working after a collision? How much do they usually charge for it? Thanks for any suggestions!

The issues raised with the new iPhone, such as durability concerns, might echo past controversies like "bendgate," but they’re not exactly media-frenzy material. Every year, iPhones continue their trend of incremental upgrades—better performance, sleeker design, improved cameras—much like Samsung or LG. However, iPhones are more than just smartphones; they are cultural icons and fashion statements, similar to the hype surrounding new Air Jordans. At BrandsCollective, we understand the allure of blending technology with style. Just like you elevate your wardrobe, choosing the latest gadgets reflects personal expression and staying ahead of the curve

plenty of skylines in Japan.. does that diminish their value here?

plenty more in europe

Hello! its time to do the timing belt on my S60 2.5T and i have a bit of a confusion as i get different answers from everybody. Let's begin like this; I know how the job is to be done but have questions regarding the VVT As i understand the 2.5T has 2 VVTs unlike the other models only have 1, when doing the timing belt i have seen some use the Cam locking tool to ensure that the camshafts do not move and some do without. I can link a video with this here where they use the tools and "zero" the vvts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=319G0Ohfelw&lc=UgxILbTqEz7NPsgaOEZ4AaABAg.ABit639GdQAABiwEEybwj9 And on other they zero the motor and remove the pullyes and tensioners and put the new pulleys on and belt without any locking tools or resetting the vvts. Which you can find here: https://charm.li/Volvo/2003/S60 2.5T AWD L5-2.5L Turbo VIN 59 B5254T2/Repair and Diagnosis/Maintenance/Timing Belt/Service and Repair/Timing Belt%2C Replacing/ Some say that you need to zero the VVTS and thats why they use the cam locking tool. In the original instructions it do no say anything about using said tool to do it. It do says to find the marking and zero the motor. After that turn the motor 1/4 rotations clockwise and then counter clockwise untill the markings line up. When doing the counter clockwise rotation the tensioner will untension itself to ensure the vvt do not move when you remove the belt. All help is appreciated.

My buddy's uncle should read this. He's about to start his Volvo project once the suspension kit and skid plates from 4Wheelonline were installed on his Jeep project. It's been slipping bad and definitely need to drop the trans.

Thank you. This is a real help. It gives me something to start with. You say that Bosch is not making the MAF sensors anymore? If not what is a premium brand to go with. Will have to do some tracing to check for corrosion. The weather has dropped off the table here so next reasonably warm day will do some investigating on this. GREAT job. Thanks, Clark

The code P0137: O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2) points out a fault in the oxygen sensor located after the catalytic converter, and most likely is caused by issues in the sensor itself, wiring problems, or exhaust leaks. P0137 quick overview Meaning P0137: O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2) Is it serious? Yes, it can lead to poor fuel efficiency, increased emissions, and potential damage to the catalytic converter if not addressed. Possible causes – Faulty oxygen sensor – Wiring or connector issues related to the oxygen sensor – Exhaust leaks, especially between the O2 sensors and the catalytic converter – Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor – Use of non-OEM or incompatible oxygen sensors How to diagnose? 1. Read the fault codes using an OBD-II scanner to confirm P0137 and any other related codes. 2. Visually inspect the wiring and connectors associated with the oxygen sensor for any signs of damage, corrosion, or disconnection. 3. Check for any exhaust leaks, especially in the area between the oxygen sensors and the catalytic converter. 4. If the vehicle has multiple banks, consider swapping the O2 sensors between them to see if the fault follows the sensor or stays with the bank. 5. Use a diagnostic tool to monitor the O2 sensor’s voltage. If it’s consistently low, the sensor might be faulty. 6. Force the system to run rich using propane or another method and monitor the O2 sensor’s response. 7. If suspecting a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor issue, test with a known good MAF sensor. 8. Always check for any recalls or Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) related to the O2 sensors or associated systems for the specific vehicle model. make sure you installed, may have to be OEM O2 sensors. check the MAF sensor, the OEM BOSCH piece is not being manufactured anymore as far as I know. if the wiring is coroded any where causing resistence, even the smallest bit, it can cause a volt drop leading to inconsitant voltage. and look for pin hole leaks before the cat. according to. https://www.iamcarhacker.com/fix-p0137/

Currently looking for this model. If still available, I will buy it.

See you next year!!!! But seriously, im planning meets, so see you next year. lol