All Activity

How's your car now? I would take that "take to an expert mechanic" advice.

The C30 is scheduled for new brake pads and oil once we're done installing the fender flares, nerf bars, and winch on the pick up truck.

Mini and local events are definitely more relaxing than very crowded events.

Loved the perfect little classic mini. Happy to see people come out. Nice to have alternatives to the giant events out there .

Hi mate, can you repost the link pls?

Looks like there are lots of interesting cars in that meet!

Just bought 2009 S80 with the active dual xenon option. It appears that the Rt headlight is missing the 2 modules mounted on the bottom of the headlight assy. The hi beam works but not the lo beam.My question is - do I need both modules for the lo beam to work? Looking online the ballast control module is relatively inexpensive whereas the control unit runs a few $. I'm more interested in getting the lo beam working,could live without the active feature. Also odd that most listings are across the pond.? Appreciate any help/suggestions. Thank you

Remaps, Piggyback, Air intakes, exhaust ?

Cleared my service message with ViDA, did an oil change on another one of our C30s, moved a dresser with the XC70. Busy week.

In case this helps anybody in the future, I was easily able to rotate by hand the cams 180 while rotating the crankshaft 360. 1. Remove the spark plugs so you can rotate the crankshaft easily in tiny increments. I was just using a 1/2" ratchet. 2. Each Cam Sprocket has 42 teeth. One tooth rotation CW is 8.57 degrees. Which means crankshaft needs to rotate 17.14 degrees CW for each tooth. 3. I marked the opposite tooth from my 1st mark on the cams, so I would know exactly where 180 degrees was to stop. It is of course exactly 21 teeth away. 4. I went ahead and marked specific teeth on the cams that were pretty close to 45 degree increment marks I made on the crank. (i.e. Tooth 5 = 43 degrees rotation on Cam = 96 degrees rotation on crankshaft) 5. I went only 2 or 3 teeth at a time on the cams with my hands, and then rotated the crankshaft roughly what it should be at based on my marks. The only resistance I felt on the cams felt like the valve springs. I never felt resistance when rotating the crank. 6. Halfway check mark is at 10.5 teeth rotation (90 degrees on cams), crankshaft should be 180 degrees. 7. Eventually got the cams rotated 180, with the crankshaft mark right back on mark. 8. Hooked up the cam locking tool, it fit like a glove. 9. Hooray! TDC!

As long as you can lock the cams in place, whatever tool you use is fine.

Help. So bit of a dilemma...I'm changing the timing belt, tensioner and idler on my Volvo P1 engine. I am NOT removing the cam sprockets to do any seals. I was under the impression I needed this newer fancy cam locking tool that goes on the other side of engine. Got the cam cover caps and rotors off, all ready to put the tool onto the cams, and it won't fit. It seems I marked the cams 180 out. Doh! I have already removed the timing belt. So to use this tool, I need the cams 180 rotated. I assume I can carefully rotate the crankshaft 360 while rotating both cams 180? But is this foolish? Or can I just use the older cam lock for the 850? All i need is for the cams to not move while I'm putting on the timing belt and tensioning. ? Thanks!

I would replace the coolant temp sensor. It should be relatively cheap.

Immediately after starting a car the temperature gauge needle goes to the full red and the fan starts running. My Volvo/Saab dedicated Careader scanner does not "connect" communication fault reported. Engine does not overheats.

problem solved - a brand new fuel pressure sensor was faulty - fuel pressure 80psi.

Disconnecting fuel line from filter, why does volvo use fuel connectors from hell ? (And how to disconnect them ?) Hi, I have a XC70 03 with leaking rusted fuel filter Got a new filter, tried to replace it but it didn't work as I'd hoped. On the fuel line connectors, there are gray tabs that you're presumably supposed to press to release the hose. I pressed them, the hose turns but it doesn't release. Got in a better position, pushed as hard as I could with my fingers, I cut myself a little, push-pull-twist-yank-push-pull and so on, it just won't let go I squirted a bunch of penetrant lubrication fluid into the hose connectors https://imgur.com/ql675vX https://imgur.com/LhS03c4 I tried squeezing it with the vice grip, but that doesn't squeeze the tabs, it just holds on to the connector's body https://imgur.com/SJYJHh9 I tried the smaller vice grip but same thing https://imgur.com/OWFtKg9 I tried wrapping zip ties around it and squeezing the heads of the zip ties onto the gray tabs https://imgur.com/8Ssdo4S But the awkward position, trying to juggle the zip ties, the vice grips and everything was just too much ! So I had the idea to put tape around the connector https://imgur.com/Uo6iU39 And then stick the cut heads of the zip ties in place https://imgur.com/Iin6cW7 Now I've got them good on there ! https://imgur.com/GX4Omwp push-pull-twist-yank-push-pull again, but it won't budge, it does turn just fine but it won't come out ! Yes, I tried pushing hard ! The tabs are pushed in permanently now, I wonder if that's going to be an ever bigger problem ? https://imgur.com/lN0nkiw I went on youtube and the forums, looking for the trick maybe ? -------------- youtube and forum results here A video showing you should be able to take it off with just your hands https://youtu.be/7NSoECT6toI?t=103 this video is from an XC90 but it's the same setup https://youtu.be/jhMSf1b27Ns?t=201 Another video showing just how dam easy it is supposed to be https://youtu.be/ovc5m8RJx5M?t=379 fcpeuro, showing again that it's super easy https://youtu.be/fV7gYckPeu4?t=41 these guys are using some tool https://youtu.be/6XxmAPz0GJ0?t=98 this person has the same problem, pushed on the buttons using open end wrenches https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/need-help-please-fuel-pump-line-quick-disconnect-stuck-60568/ this person used jumper cable clamps https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850-16/quick-connect-line-removal-fuel-pump-50495/ this person gave up and brought it to the dealer https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-s40-11/fuel-filter-disconnects-70542/ this person didn't resolve their stuck fuel filter, suggested using a special tool or going to dealer https://www.___.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=627121&hilit=fuel+filter+disconnect this person did the fix, and then it blew out the lines under pressure, suggest https://www.___.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=599775 This post also mention they are hard lines covered with rubber so you can't just cut them and clamps https://www.___.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=448365 This person cut the line, discovered they are hardlines, they have not been heard from since and are presumed dead https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/2006-xc70-fuel-filter-disconnects.656305/ This person says "couldnt be easier" https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/fuel-filter-replacement-couldnt-be-easier.354018/ This person's mechanic broke the connectors and replaced with generic screw hose clamps, are worried about leaking gas on the exhaust They reported putting 1000 miles on the car, they have not been heard from since and are presumed dead https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/fuel-filter-2000-v70xc.218735/ This person broken the fuel filter connector, paid 990$ plus towing to have it fixed by replacing the entire line https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/fuel-filter-connector-busted.89361/#post-894536 This person says to squeeze, push then pull https://www.volvo-forums.com/threads/hello-and-help.1390/#post-3281 This person also tried everything in 2009, they have not been heard from since and are presumed dead https://www.volvo-forums.com/threads/fuel-filter-removal.28388/#post-112439 I see on ebay, there are special pliers that might do it ? https://imgur.com/Hac0Wbz https://imgur.com/5jqb3VK -------------- my friend lended me his dad's hose disconnect tool kit as well as a pep talk https://imgur.com/4GHgV8y I tried the 1/4" tool https://imgur.com/mZ7hiVt I tried the 5/16" tool https://imgur.com/32ReE62 I tried the filter inlet side, that's the leaking side, it broke off immediately https://imgur.com/yzwk3Vq https://imgur.com/cclaFBg It's not budging, mosquittos are eating me alive and it's 3AM so I'll try again tomorrow Another day, what we're looking at here https://imgur.com/CKPaYbr https://imgur.com/6ZeBbQe 1/4" tool again, it's in the "out" position https://imgur.com/iKrRZOH 1/4" tool, in the "in" position https://imgur.com/Tj71yZX Trying to have a look inside the connector https://imgur.com/PS8E6fS https://imgur.com/6PhHowN Trying the 5/16" tool again out position https://imgur.com/Gg75DNx in position https://imgur.com/6Azss9r Trying another tool that fits https://imgur.com/HkARy0i I can hear clicking sounds, but it's not moving https://imgur.com/gcpDU89 I tried with the zip tie heads again https://imgur.com/DBIk4hv https://imgur.com/HN0kFkd It's well squished https://imgur.com/gDVoTtr And I've got another tool to help me pry the connector from the filter https://imgur.com/9IXFJMf Well, I'm stuck, I also tried heating the line with a hair dryer, but no effect I ordered the two fuel line disconnect tools off ebay, I hope they will arrive before the end of next week ! Is there any way to buy replacement hose end connectors, so I could just cut off the lines and push in new connectors ? I really really really don't want to change the lines, especially not the line that goes to the fuel pump ! I've seen that you have to cut a hole in the floor or drop the subframe to get at the fuel pump so .

Well after 2 months of fighting with insurance, I saved it. and got it fixed and was just able to pick it up this week. It's not 100% perfect. but they shop did a great job and im so glad to have it back. As for what I did today to it, I replaced the 3rd brake light because it was cracked and weirdly glued(with gross drips of too much glue the had turned white im assuming from the sun. it looks much nicer now.

Pre-heating O2 sensor fault. The car run well, although i noticed higher consumption. Two more codes came on fuel pressure sensor and engine speed sensor. I finally decided to replace them. After I did it the car does not run. It starts an is running very rich, clouds of smoke and does not idle for more than a few seconds. Scanner does not show any other codes. If I disconnect MAF sensor the car idles much better. I check it with a scanner again. No DTC now. Previously randomly fuel pressure sensor (after I installed the new one. Update: I installed a new engine speed sensor - still no change. Trying everything I just disconnected the hose from charcoal canisters to intake manifold. (A horizontal fitting on the right side of the intake manifold - facing the engine). Checked the suction with a finger and suddenly engine idle smoothed to the normal, the engine reacted to the gas pedal much better then before and engine stopped smoking. Somehow I achieved almost ideal air-fuel mixture. As soon as I reconnect MAF sensor engine stalls. I switched the MAF sensor with a borrowed one - but no change. Where is the buried gremlin?

It's best to take your Volvo V70 to a trusted and experienced mechanic or a Volvo specialist who can diagnose the specific problems and provide appropriate solutions. Modifying and tuning your car can lead to unforeseen issues, so professional guidance is essential to ensure the longevity and reliability of your vehicle.

It definitely has. It's such a great car to drive. I'd love to get a little bit more power out of mine. It feels great for what it is, but I also find myself wanting more when I really get on it. I've never driven a Golf R, but a friend of mine has a '17 GTI that was a lot of fun. It felt similar to my V70R actually, dead on the low end, then all the power in the mid to high end. It felt really good in boost, but I want more torque down low. Just like my R!

Nice! The E46 has aged so well in my opinion. I honestly don't know what I'd do with the power. Had an '18 Golf R a few years ago and it just didn't do much for me even at 290ish stock and AWD.

Oooh, I'm jealous. I have an 01 330Ci and I love it. I wish it had the top end power of my V70R, but the handling and power band are worlds better.

Changed the oil. C30 isn't getting much love after I picked up an '05 330i ZHP sedan.

If your dipstick is popping under boost on a 1998 even with a functioning PCV system, you may want to upgrade your dipstick/tube to the 1999+ version. It has two O-rings rather than one and will stay put better under boost. Also, the single O-ring on the 1998- version will have shrunk and become brittle over time, providing even less of a seal. Or you can try changing just the O-ring on your original stick.

If oil is blowing out of the dipstick, you're pressurizing the crankcase. Does it pass the "glove test"? Could be a poor PCV "service", or you're over-whelming the stock system with the sustained 18psi runs. Dial the boost back until you figure it out. Sounds like something is wrong, but keeping your foot in it isn't the solution.