BlackT5

Took it out for the maiden voyage last night. First impression.. it sounds incredible. A bit nervous as the remaining oil burnt off but the oil leak is fixed. It kept stalling when i'd let off the gas and rpms dropped too quickly, but adding some fuel in the lower rpms below idle solved that. I might need to raise the front struts up slightly since it still rubs quite a bit with 235s. Still need to have the dump tube routed back into the downpipe. For now the screamer pipe is in place but it's a tight fit and does rattle a bit under certain conditions. Also, the rear part of my exhaust occasionally vibrates on the rear ipd sway bar so that willl need addressing at some point. Still running the Siemens 630s and will need to upgrade to 1000cc injectors. Beyond that, i think the limiting factor will be the cly sleeves. Since i've barely driven the car in the last few years, i'm not going to push things too hard. Honestly if the motor gave out anytime soon, I would have very little motivation to fix it. Although, even driving it for a short time yesterday did remind me how nice it is to drive.

All back together.. Idles perfectly now that the broken spark plug is replaced.

Is it finished or did you fall asleep on the job?

Man you work quick. It took me forever to get my shit together. Maybe it's the lift.. Nice work, you'll be up and running in no time!

I decided to use a helicoil instead of just tapping the hole out to a larger size. Worked great. Put the cam cover back on. It looks a little thin in one spot in the pic, but I think it's just a reflection. I did put an extra little bit on the head on the back side. Now I just need to put the new cam seals in and finish putting things back together.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/136565-how-your-car-sits/?do=findComment&comment=2381418

I use a razor and then brake clean to get the oil residue off. It was pretty easy this time around since i'd really only had the car upto temp twice. I think the leak had something to do with the fact that I had bolts out in that area to fit the stupid little heat shield I made for the second filler cap. I know I didn't tighten the bots back up enough because I noticed the leak later and tightened them. During the time they were loose, I might have done a compression test and got oil in the gap. That said, I pressed out the second filler and pressed in a new cap. I got the cam cover nice and clean, now I just need to clean the head and tap one stripped hole to M8x1.25 and dig a bolt out of my bin. Got new cam seals and spark plug orings also another tube of Volvo sealant. I meant to ask the dealer if they sell single spark plugs or if I have to buy a pack.

Got the cover off You can see the area where it was leaking, the sealant looks all f*cked. I think it might have gotten oil in it? idk Hoping to get my new seals and sealant today so I can clean it up and put it back together. Any tips? I'll clean all the surfaces and wipe with brake clean to get any oil off. I feel like I wanna add a bit extra goop along that edge just to be sure it's going to seal.

Nice work. Can you show how you mounted the S60R front caliper?

I see Volvo sells the little cap that presses into the cam cover. Probably going to take out the second filler neck since I don't like how close it sits to the manifold. I already have the cams dialed in so no real need for it.

I have the lengths. but they're specific to having the regulator mounted on the rail. The lines were actually a couple inches too long, but it was easy to tuck the slack. I put the new lines in and the fuel smell is gone. Started it up and it was running a bit off, which I figured was just do to the tune but I didn't have much time to look at it. Tried again yesterday and same thing but not too bad. I tried backing it out the driveway but it was stuttering when you put any load in it. Also noticed a pretty significant oil leak from the exhaust side of the cam cover, dripping oil all over the turbo. Pretty obvious that the cam cover would need resealing so I started tearing into it last night. Just wrenchin away when I looked up and noticed a white thing sticking out of one of the coil packs. One of my plugs was broken. Never seen one break like this

The 850 must have a sleeved block? N or RN motor?

New PTFE fuel lines are here and look top notch Cost more than the parts car I just bought though!

Where'd you purchase the angle gear and axle? i cringe at the thought of the cost

The -6 lines fit in the stock plastic housings under the car. The main one that runs under and the few retaining brackets that hold the lines over the axle and on top of the tank. You have to drop the tank to get the old lines out and get the new ones in. The tank drops really easily on FWDs. There are a few places where they enter the engine bay where I used big cable brackets to secure them away from the downpipe etc. I pulled the old lines out and was able to loop them with some spare fittings to stop gas from pouring out everywhere.. Just placing my order for Goodrich steel braided PTFE hoses from Pegasus auto racing supply. These guys are absolutely amazing to deal with. I'm debating having them make the lines up with crimp on fittings so they can pressure test them etc.. or just buying their hose and fittings and installing the reusable fittings myself. I'm leaning towards the crimp on so once I get them, I can throw them in and be DONE. Finalizing the order tomorrow morning.

So you're using PTFE hose? The filter element says it's compatible with Gasoline and Diesel only. We don't have E85 up here, but the Chevron 94 pump I run probably contains a small percentage.

It's alive! Let me back up a bit.. Got the fuel filter.. really nice piece. 10 micron paper filter. 10x better than the little Russell filter I bought previously which only had a 40 micron stainless disc Got the compression to -6 fittings which also worked great Pulled all the stock lines out Installed the new filter S60R rail with -6 fittings welded on each end.. added the 98 dampener instead of getting the original feed hole welded shut.. Just going to run the 630s at the moment until I get things dialed in a bit better. compression fittings installed Lines installed Dirty car back on the ground after months on jack stands! I set the base fuel pressure and fired it up.. the tune is WAY off, but it's got good cold start oil pressure, vacuum and AFRs are ok since I adjusted them Now the fucked up part... I fired it up for the first time a few days ago.. checked for leaks etc ... all good but ran outta time and had to push it back into the garage. Went out the next day and the garage smells like gas. Ok, so I check all the fittings.. they're all dry. No gas anywhere to be seen. I fire it back up to build pressure. Still no leaks. There are only 8 connections in the fuel system 2 at the tank, 2 at the filter, 2 at the rail and 2 at the regulator. I start sniffing around the engine bay and the fittings are all good but the lines themselves smell like fuel vapor. I start googling and find all these posts on various car forums with people having the same issue. This seems to be a common issue with many types of CPE hose. I used Russell ProClassic -6 nylon braided line. It specifically says on their website http://russellperformance.com/mc/hose/proclassic.shtml "For racers and performance enthusiasts who want high quality plumbing that's lighter and easier to assemble than traditional braided steel hose, Russell ProClassic hose is the perfect choice. It features a lightweight nylon fiber outer braid with a CPE inner liner, and a maximum pressure rating of 350 psi. It is capable of handling nearly every plumbing task on your car and is safe to use with fuel, oil, or antifreeze. " Since I mounted the FPR right on the fuel rail and have lines going close to the motor, I do not feel confident driving the car. It seems like the way to fix this is to use teflon (PTFE) hose or hardlines. The local supplier is looking into the issue and will probably let me return the hose as defective, but i'm not sure about the fittings. If I go PTFE, it uses a different type of fitting. I'm going to call the local industrial hose shop and see what they recommend. If i'm pulling all the lines out and redoing eveything, then i'm doing it right so I never have to worry about it again. Another one step forwad, two steps back.. seems to be a common occurance with this part of the build..

Your cam cover is coated/painted. Have you removed the coating with sand paper/emerycloth for all the grounds for a nice solid ground connection where the coils bolt to the head and the grounds for the coils mount. Same with the two eng grounds on the cover? As for the FPR, you mentioned getting a bung welded to the rail at some point. Put one on each end and put the regulator after the rail. It's a bypass regulator and is suggested to be placed after the rail as per the Aeromotive site.

I'm wondering about the fuel too. Ideally, it goes pump to filter to rail, then out of the rail to the regulator and then back to the tank.

Pretty much had to drop the tank to get the old lines and stuff out. I just wish i had those fittings to get everything buttoned up and put back together. Plumbing the wastegate dump back into the downpipe is going to be a PITA. Right now, i'm just going to run the screamer pipe. It will be a little bit before I start running the car hard anyway since I have to retune it. I have a U/J bend and bellows for the piping, but I might just get a shop to do something.. we'll see Got the headlights in, mounted the FPR on the rail and started doing some of the fittings. I also still haven't upgraded my injectors! I gotta get that sorted out.. I still have the 630s if I can't find the deal I want on the ID1000s

It might, but idgaf at this point.

OK! getting so sick of fittings! I ordered two of these... 5/16" compression fitting to -6AN. They will hold the 80-85psi no problem at all. Then i'll run a couple 120 degree fittings to get the lines back where they need to go. done and done. If for whatever reason I start having fuel delivery probs then i'll revamp the pump assembly or something, but this should be good for now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-AN-to-5-16-tube-compression-fitting-Black-/230870157968?hash=item35c0ef0a90

Hmmm. It's supposed to be good to over 200psi. Not really sure what else to do at this point, compression fitting was what was recommended at the local industrial fitting and hose shop. I know the 90 isn't ideal. I could always go with a straight one and then use AN to make the bend.

I got it figured out. I'm going to use 90 degree 5/16" compression fittings to male 1/4" npt, then a female 14/" npt to male -6AN. So from the fittings on the feed side, -6 hose to Russell fuel filter Fuelab fuel filter with 10 micron element and then directly to one side of the rail. From there, out the other end of the rail to aeromotive FPR. Then from the FPR bypass, return directly to the tank. More pics as I put it all together this weekend. Got the downpipe done. Basically just cut up Trents old downpipe, added my turbo flange, extended it and added a Vibrant 18" resonator. I had one on my last downpipe and really liked the sound. Now I just need to plub the wastegate dump into the downpipe somewhere. Tricky part will be doing it in such a way that I can still get the downpipe in & out. It's a tight fit as it is.. Also finally got some OEM jewel headlights/corners to finish off the front end.

So I looked into the bulkhead fittings and it seemed really promising, but i'm not sure how well it will work after looking at the underside of the pump housing. Maybe the AWD stuff is different? Once you remove the stock hard line and drill it out to accept the -6 bulkhead fitting, that plastic boss will be gone and those fins will have no strength to tighten the nut to. If you ground them down, the top piece is so thin it wouldn't have much strength either. I'm still looking into alternatives. Welding won't work cause it will just melt the plastic around the tubes and lose the seal. I'm contemplating using the push on fittings and then modifying the cover plate to keep them held down. That or just put a fuel cell in