BlackT5

I could also just fab a new downpipe with a nice tight bend off the turbo to keep it away from the fuel line area. Then I could worry about the fuel lines later..

So I test fit Trent's downpipe. It still has the flange for his old turbo on it, but I just wanted to get an idea of how it sits. His turbo was a fair bit shorter than mine at the turbine outlet so it's sitting over to the passenger side a good couple inches more than his at the moment. I'll be cutting off the flange so I can have the proper one welded and can cut it back an extra inch or so to bring the pipe more towards the driver side. Either way, where it passes over the subframe/steering rack it's pretty close to my fuel lines. I still have the stock lines in place and had planned on switching over to -6 AN all the way back to the pump. I have all the fittings, hose, S60R rail with -6 fittings welded, Aeromotive regulator, gauge etc.. my only problem is this.. Trying to adapt the stock 5/16" hard line at the fuel pump housing to -6 AN. The hard lines have no barbs on them. Russell make an adapter fitting, but it uses the barb to lock into place. That is the fush on type which is now discontined, but it still uses the barb. The other adaptors say they are limted to 50psi which isn't going to work. What are my options here? I have a spare pump housing and could just get -6 fittings welded to the hardlines? Then just pull my assembly out and swap my pump over.. (currently running a Walbro GSS432) or put a better pump in while i'm at it. Thoughts?

It would probably help a bit with heat soak, but there is little room once torque mount and 4" intake pipe is in place. Plus, it would require a lot more rejigging of the intercooler pipe. I have a bunch of heat shielding from cars i've parted so I might put something in place to create some separation. I did manage to find a billet oil cap for the rear since it's close to the manifold. Just looking for another so the two will match I got the intercooler piping and intake pipe mocked up. Just going to do one final test fit after work, then it's off to be welded. It actually looks closer to the than it really is

gettin there Got a hair taken off the head flange Manifold mounted and turbo in place. Now I just need to mock up the intercooler piping over the motor, redo the intake pipe and redo the downpipe.

I don't have a welder so I had to drag the spare block to my buddy's house with the manifold and turbo mounted so he could weld up an oil return. I pulled the pan, crank girdle and crank out because now that i'm done with it for mockup, I'm going to build a spare short block to have as a spare. I already have an extra set of china rods and the set of forged diamond pistons that I got from Trent. I have rings and rod bolts so I just need bearings. Oil return done Had him weld a vband onto the compressor outlet also.. A shot of my modified water pipe and oil cooler lines.

After a few week delay, my rad and ignition coils showed up. I completed the wiring for the coil on plug conversion, so that's done. There weren't many places to mount the Earls oil cooler and in hindsight, I would have bought one a little wider and shorter. Luckily the rad came with brackets welded for the A/C condenser which I was able to use to mount my own brackets for the oil cooler. I never use the A/C so I had already torn it out. I'm using Russell -8 nylon AN hose for the oil cooler that run to the fittings I had welded onto the stock lines I cut off. I got the cams in and was able to set them up by lift @‌ TDC on cyl 3. Worked great. I got my bro to cut and weld the big water pipe at the back of the motor to get the water line outlets out of the way of the compressor inlet and also to aim the water return port from the turbo down and away from runner 1 on the manifold. Water lines are plumbed for the turbo. Next is to have my buddy weld up an oil drain and weld a vband to the turbo compressor outlet. Then I'm going to wrap the manifold and install it with the turbo. Once that's done, I can rejig the intercooler piping over the motor and the 4" intake pipe to the turbo. Last bit will be to test fit Trent's downpipe and modify as needed. Probably redo the wastegate dump and plumb it back into the downpipe also. Definitely the flange will need to be cut off and the one for my 3" GT outlet welded. The only thing I need to buy is injectors and i'm leaning towards the ID1000s. Then I have to decide if I wanna redo all the fuel lines or just wait til next winter. I have all the stuff but I just wanna drive my carrrrrrrr vvvvrrroommm pssshh &6%$#)*&#@

I'm trying to decide if I should dry fit it all to measure or just go ahead and put in the seals and anerobic sealant. Leaning toward the latter

Got it all ready to set the cams but the motor seemed too difficult to turn over. Piston clearance was good on all cyls. Seemed like perhaps the cams were binding since it's not the original cover? perhaps the cut up cover was warped? I quickly bailed on the whole idea and pulled it all apart. I'm going to measure off cyl 3 and use my original cam cover. First I had to create access on the exh side. Tapped out the plug and pressed in another filler neck. Dual oil cap status! Time to find tdc on cyl 3 and put things back together..I swear if I ever have to do this shit again, i'm pulling the motor.

Progress is slowwwww. Installed the new water pump, idler pulley. Had to stop when none of my torque wrenches would fit between the frame rail when trying to torque the new timing belt tensioner pulley. Picking up a new torque wrench today. Picked up this TDC locator for $20 shipped off amazon and it works great. Marked true TDC Spun the crank to Volvo TDC and set the cams in the open cover. With the slots aligned, they look to be in the ballpark so it should just be a matter of fine tuning them Wire is just to hold the cams in the cover during placement. Plenty of assembly lube used, don't worry I have not tightened the cover down, but it doesn't look like much room to get the dial gauge on the lifter, especially at the correct angle inline with the valve stem. DO88 rad should be here this week with some new Volvo coils. COP wiring is figured out. Working on adjustments to the big water pipe so I can finish plumbing the turbo. Also starting to mock up the revised intercooler piping. Looking at it now, it might almost be easier to get the dial gauge on the cyl 3 lifters..hmmm

-8 AN fittings welded to the oil cooler lines. Will run braided hose to this Earls oil cooler. DO88 aluminum rad should arrive in a week or two.

I love it when a plan comes together.

Here's my 4.4 rail

There have to be at least a dozen people on here that have converted from dual mass to single mass clutch setups and retained the internal slave cylinder, myself included. If installed correctly, there should be no issue aside from maybe some clutch/gear box chatter. You said you gave them the internal slave trans with the slave already installed, so either they put the clutch disc in backwards or it's just not bled correctly. ASk them to bleed it again when you're there, or go bleed it yourself.

I had them all replaced when my motor was built, but I suppose that was 10 years ago.

Don't change the master, it really shouldn't make a difference. Something is messed up with the install. Either it's not bled right, they didn't install the shifter cables correctly, or didn't install the clutch correctly.

Just checked my lifters again and most don't do it, but I found a couple that do. lol

That's odd. The S60R rail i'm going to use does not have an extra port, just one for the stock fuel feed and the 5 injector ports. I'm either going to put a dampner there or just plug it off, then run -6 lines off each end and to an Aeromotive regualtor.

Thanks for the info. My concern was this.. 96 850 turbo head. but my lifters don't do this. http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v186/BlackT5/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps3473281c.mp4

Here's my lifter Had some time today and ripped out the old rad in anticipation for the new DO88 rad once the group buy finalizes. Also removed the AC condenser and compressor. How do you disconnect the AC lines at the firewall? or what to use instead of the special tool to release the drier hard line?

I used about 60 psi. A couple of the retainers stuck at first and caused the valve to open. Scared the shit out of me. No cam settings were passed on, but I might call the tuner and see what he says. Best way to set them up will be by lift at tdc. I don't know if there is another way but if you have a suggestion... Here is the spec sheet. http://www.catcams.co.uk/acatalog/7902713.pdf My concern was that my measurements would not be accurate when trying to measure off a hydro lifter. It's strange though, my 98 lifters do not look like the hydro lifters I pulled out of an old 96 turbo head when I was practicing with my valve spring compressor. The buckets are totally different and the 96 were spongy when I pushed on them, mine feel solid. I'll post a pic in the morning.

I'm sticking with the hydro lifters and will set the rpm limit to 8k. Started pulling my car apart last weekend.. S60r manifold and turbo off.. Swapped the 5 bolt T3 .63 housing to the vband T3 .82 housing and test fit the turbo and manifold on a spare motor. Compressor housing hits the water pipe when it's clocked how I want it. Looks like I can get away with putting a small dent in the pipe. The two water ports on the pipe will have to be relocated if I want to fit the 4" intake pipe. I'm going to drag a spare m56 up from the basement and see how it works with the trans mount. I should have just pulled my motor/trans for this shitt, it would be a lot easier to do the timing belt, water pump etc.. Pulled the cam cover off to replac the valve stem seals and install the autotech valve springs and different retainers. Done Now i'm trying to wrap my head around setting up the cat cams. H, i might be sending you a PM. NA intake cam and catcam intake cam with the slots lined up looks to put the lobes in the same general location. (no measurements yet) of course, the bolt holes for the cam gears is way off so i'll have to measure and make my own marks. That's where i'm at.. lots left to do!

The ID is roughly 17mm Just get a couple -6 aluminium weld on bungs from summit or wherever, then weld a plug into the factory feed hole.

Don't forget to switch from the 850 rail to a P2 style, otherwise you will have delivery problems.

Is that packing material stuck on the rad? Where do I order? directly from DO88?

Yep. i'll be converting to coil on plug. I have to fish the wires out from the Nira harness. I'm using the cyl 1 wire to run the ignition coil for the distributor. Can't remember if I even ran the rest through the firewall. Also thinking of going to an alu rad and running an external oil cooler. Need bigger injectors and might buy a Nuke fuel rail and aftermarket fuel pressure regulator/lines. BUT! I also want to be able to actually drive my car this summer, so we'll see how time and budget play out. Once the manifold goes in, I will need to rejig the intake piping to the turbo, some of the intercooler piping and also the exhaust. I'm not sure I wanna run an open wastegate dump either..