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RussB

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Everything posted by RussB

  1. What a concept! There just ain't enough of that around here. Too many folks think the "internet" can fix their cars for 'em Your car has issues. Compression check and/or a leak down test are in order.
  2. Replace your radiator, anything else is ghetto hack-butchery <_<
  3. write it off as a loss, and buy yourself a new one
  4. I'd return it or exchange it...contact Autometer
  5. ...and as far as asking for opinions if you should keep/sell the car, only you can figure that one out.
  6. Any 11+ year old car requires maintenence, and 850's aren't cheap to maintain. There may be something disconnected on the instrument cluster. Are you willing to work on it yourself? As far as the low power, read the DTC codes, and report back. The info you need is posted here in the pinned threads.
  7. until you put in 10% of the time and effort that went into Bay 13, any comments like these will have ZERO merit...STFU n00b's :angry:
  8. you may need to loosen the adjuster for the parking brakes...but I'd get the Big Hammer out first. question is, wft are you doing RIGHT! put the tools down, and get yourself to a Haynes manual, STAT!
  9. I just replaced the head gasket. I had oil in the coolant, small amounts, but in there none the less. I ran the car with just water, drained and backflushed, but I still have oil residue in there. It is already discoloring my new Prestone Should I go with a radiator flush product, or maybe a "Simple Green" type porduct to emulsify the oil so I can rinse it all outa there?
  10. I have your endlinks...they're so good, that I could almost be coaxed into getting another set I would be in for a GB on your A Arms, though B)
  11. those links suck hard. I got less than a year out of them. you get what you pay for!
  12. steering wheel and hoses are still left...I'll take any resonable offer on the hoses ;)
  13. They're brown, note the tips and the Volvo part number. They flow 150 LPH
  14. They're in excellent condition, and the fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, and all the associated gaskets & seals are included. Volvo #028 0150 779 close-up pic...
  15. No, not new...it was installed for about 2 years. IIRC, it was around $80 new
  16. Steering Wheel $50 shipped NOW $40! SOLD pending receipt of payment N/A Injectors, with all the "Do-Dad's" $50 shipped SOLD! Hose from air box to turbo, with PCV heater, $20 shipped I/C Hoses, old but no rips/tears and all cleaned up, with clamps, $30 shipped If you just need one, LMK PayPal & Postal Money orders
  17. The I/C piping fit very nicely into the "other end" of the TB hose, but I have no experience with the "old" TB hose. Maybe Sig will jump in here...
  18. OK, you guys a weirding me out... hoses will not make more boost...sorry, but it just can't happen. I would say that you had a leak with your factory hoses, be it a tear or perhaps a leaky/loose clamp. It is misleading to say that the hoses added boost the three main reasons to get silicone hoses are, 1. the factory hoses are worn/torn/oil soaked 2. you're running high boost, and need the added strength of the silicone 3. They're so damn pretty! #3 is the reason most of us get them :rolleyes:
  19. Gotta be at least 15 more horsepower! ;)
  20. and if you keep rev'ing the car when you start it up, the oil burning will get much worse, quickly! <_<
  21. I installed a set of the Stylin' Motor's silicone hoses on my car yesterday... ...I just want to say that there were no fitment issues with the dreaded "throttle body hose". All the hoses fit easily (with a little rubbing alchohol) Sig and crew seem to have it all sorted out As a note, my vacuum at idle went up a bit more than 1"/hg, and is now at a solid 21"/hg. My old hoses were decrepid! Open thought...Stylin' need to make a hose for the top side of the IAC valve to the plastic vacuum tree ;)
  22. Very nice! Whoa! you got some oil coming outa' there! http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...eoid=1116544986
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