erikv11

I don't think the T4 will work, because the base is too large. It won't fit in the back of the switch. The dimensions of 3, 4 and 5 bases are in the link from IPD Cameron, that is what I am going by here. NEO3 and T3 are the same, 8 mm, etc. I know, the 25 degree seems like a pretty narrow beam. The ones from superbrightleds are supposedly 120 degrees. Will the guy put just one LED in an envelope for like a buck, so you can try it in the switch?

Those are standard NEO bases, so the T3 in the pic should work just fine. Where is the source?

Did you ever follow up? My bet is on the diode has shorted out or there is bad soldering...

My VIN plate says my car is 4.4 so I installed the diode A32 to A37, tapping into the wires. So far (OK only a week) no CEL.

Well my car certainly has SAS valve, solenoid and air pump. Don't know which relays, but I could look if that would matter? Thew car is also M4.4 according to the VIN plate. But you are saying that my ECU should be set up to check B-38 instead of A-37, regardless of all that? In that case the threads say I would need to bridge with the pot using a time delay relay (TDR). hmmmm that would be a bummer. Is it worth trying the easy method (A-32 to A-37) or would I be wasting my time?

OK you can tell the Motronic version by checking the VIN: link at MVS On my car the digit in the emissions VIN is a 4. So it has Motronic 4.4 In fact according to that MVS page, any 96 with an air pump has Motronic 4.4 So this delete should work.

In response to "what cars does this work on, someone said: How do I find out if my car is 4.3 or 4.4? Note that it is an N/A. Or more to the point: can I do this SAS delete on my car?

no it won't

hmmm sent email way back, got email reply, waited ... didn't get most recent email with the GB details! ok I'm sure the list was long some may fall through the cracks so I sent another email today - looking forward to endlinks!

My car's radiator has a hairline crack in the upper outlet. It stopped leaking when I replaced the hose and cranked it down. But so I started shopping and reading because I'll be replacing it soon enough. Now I'm not afraid to buy an aftermarket part if it will work well and will last a while (I know often they don't ...) but I decided that based on fitment and quality issues I read about in posts here, it is probably worth buying the OEM radiator. You'll basically never have to replace this OEM part again, you may have to replace the Nissens. eEuroparts was selling the OEM for a while, check there, maybe call them. consider the receiver/dryer while you've got the radiator out, on my car it is all rusted to hell I don't see how it isn't leaking yet. But that means flush the A/C a whole new can of worms ... my $0.02

I can't see how a fuel additive would cause the oil leak. Clean it up, see where the oil is coming from. If it isn't a turbo line or something then as far as PCV is concerned, word here goes like: "If it is puffing smoke out of the dipstick, then PCV probably needs done. compression check in order like RussB said." "If replacing the oil cap and/or gasket doesn't fix it, then R&R the PCV." "PCV is part of stage zero. If you have a pre-98 and you've never done it, then it is probably time." One nice thing about a compression check and leak-down is you may want to make sure your motor is worth the effort. Wish I had those steelies. I've been wanting to type that for a while.

plus one the only thing holding a rotor on is the caliper and that little stud Bay 13 is very clear about this sounds like what you are doing wrong is, trying to remove your axles to replace your rotors.

If you mean the play is in the joint, like it moves in and out and the joint itself might fall apart, then I'd fix it now. Driving without a front sway can't be much fun or very safe, on a long trip. If the joint is just worn, like rotates too easily but still stays in the joint, then you're probably OK. People drive on worn end links for a long time. And you're sure the looseness is in the joint and not due to the nut being loose?

sorry about that, yeah, stage zero is maintenance There is a pinned thread (top of Performance forum) that explains how to search, check it out. So you can use one of those tricks to search three letter words (* or google direct or google via firefox pugin). Or you can just spell the whole word(s) for acronyms ("positive crankcase ventilation") that will get you a long way. Alright I'll stop side-jacking your thread, hey at least I give you free bumps :D

PCV system consists of oil trap and several pipes/hoses there is a pinned thread for pcv replacement in turbo 850s fcpgrotron.com sells a kit for the turbo cars, or you can buy parts individually. if you're doing it yourself then get an intake manifold gaskey in addition to the kit.

Actually MIJ other people were been posting that a lot, back in the spring. But I agree and no one has said it yet on this thread so +1

actually your thread has 193 views right now and unless 150 of them are from you, I think you have like, one forum's opinion on most of stage zero. I seem to recall member number is pretty high here. So Bosch, Bougicord, Mann, Walbro, or can almost never go wrong with OEM. People aren't likely to post if it's already been said, and it has. Do a search, you will find it said hundreds of times more. Would that convince you?

+1 Crush washers aren't meant to be reused. They are soft metal that crushes to make a nice tight seal with the microscopically uneven surface of the oil pan. Presumably you can only crush them once.

you are resetting the CEL (Check Engine Light) this tool resets the Service Light. The light that just comes one every x,000 miles. it is not part of the OBDII system, but it is accessible from there. I don't know the answer to your real question though, about the pin-outs :)