GT2
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Everything posted by GT2
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Cheers! ( dam Hawks suck )
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Thank you Chuck B)
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You know Chuck, if your going to force us to use the auction section you could at least leave up the for sale section so we could copy stuff over to the new site.
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George, you kicked butt on your first auto x ? You got skills! :)
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9 people. I thought it was a nice quick meet, should have more!
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Minimum Octane Rating For Volvo 850?
GT2 replied to Account_Deleted_T5M's topic in Member Announcements
Its not going to hurt to try it, the knock sensor and ECU will save you butt if there is a prob. -
That is one piece of beautiful fabrication! But why cant they engineer the correct length front dampners? Kind of ruins the whole thing :angry:
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Which Volvo Seats Will Bolt Into A 850 Frame?
GT2 replied to TorqueSteer's topic in Member Announcements
If YOUR that paranoid, might as well not even get out of bed! :D -
Boy I hope so,... Starting to wonder about that guy! ;)
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???? :huh:
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Dicks kid v :angry:
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Check out that driving position, seat back, straight wrist. Shes HOT! Also in the 1st post picture, look at the angle of the wing! Christ, might as well mount a 4x8 sheet of plywood on there. <_<
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Mike, have you given any thought to using some kind of steel block "girdle"? This might help stabilize the bottom end, but not sure if it will help with the cylinder movement. PS, I love the crazy stuff you guys experiment with!
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What are you new? A properly machined steel block would be a great deal stronger, however the added weight and cost might not be worth it. :)
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Pushing a shock in and out by hand means nothing (especially in your example)! Probably the most you can tell by hand is if you have a completly blown shock! The multiple valving systems in most good shocks take a little more force and velocity to open and close than your "hand" can provide. :)
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My Webpage
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Well after all the hype and build up I must say I'm a little dissapointed ;)
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If this were even remotely true, there would be a million ricers buried in the back of Caddys and such by now! :P
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Just in case you dont understand ..... The WB dosent magicly make everything "ok". It just tells you what your AFR is so you make changes accordingly.
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I think it would work, if, you also get that grill and paint the mesh satin black but leave the outer trim chrome. Also shoe dye black all the plastic molding and bumper covers, and get a polish on that go-go! :)
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I have an older miller 250 Tig. Yeah, I tryed pushing alum thru my mig once, sux. A spool gun should work fine with the thicker metals, if you can produce a decent bead! Practice Practice :)
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I would make the tube wedges a little taller ( check for hood clearance ), then raise the cross bar up a little bit on them so it will be easier to weld the bottom part of the cross bar. I also might have tryed a 1.250" OD cross bar, but I'm not too sure there is enough room? So far I can tell a difference with it on there, I'm going to try and hit the track friday so I'll let you know how it feels.
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Thats why you (generally) use 3 times thicker material when working with aluminum. If cost, time, and space werent a concern I would have used paper thin 4130 steel with a cross brace of 2" OD. (Sorry Kevin, Titanium is over my head) I'm not an engineer, but I've learned a lot over many years of hard knocks in the race car fabrication buisness to know that my alum brace is at least as strong (if not stronger) than OMP's mild steel bar. And it might even be lighter! PS. + alum is cooler than steel!
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There you go! But no cutting required, Just bolt it in the car, put a couple tack welds on the clevis/ tube end, remove from car and finish welding all around! (Except it wont be aluminum : )
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I'm about 99.9% sure its there only to ease instalation. I have built many braces for production race cars, and the solid ones always had the best results! Its not life or death so do what works for you! :)