Rsterns

The bigger air box sounds interesting, and brings up something that I've thought about from time to time. I've had visions of plumming in a second AC evap into an airbox to provide true cold air induction. I figured that the compressor load wouldn't change so no additional drain on HP. The trick would be switching it on and off while still retaining cabin cooling.

Very impressive work as always. I almost hate to ask, but is there anything left to mod or now is it time to enjoy the fruits of your labor?

H, It also looks like the what appears to be a voltage regulator on the board which is under your red and green wire, appears to be a rosin / flux connection, I'd recommend reflow and clean to assure a good connection.

Amazing stuff. Almost time to update your sig again, your currently stated HP is way off

H, You may have really started something here, scoop looks like it belongs. Elegant install as usual.

I'd say the shop did it right, when I ran a shop, the only way to really deal with hot spots is to grind them out.

I also never felt any misfire or detonation, or backfire or anything, but would get CELs for misfire, changed everything, including going to magnicore wires. For my tune and mods the performance just wasn't there. I changed out the knock sensors, and it's an entirely different running car. Picked up 5 mpg, and performance is spectacular.

Don't know if you've covered it, I've skimmed thru the entire thread, and only saw one picture of your knock sensors. I had a similar issue with the ECU pulling timing, turned out to be bad knock sensors, sending false misfire which caused the ECU to pull timing.

I like the conduit idea you have. I'm wondering if the added support of it might allow for tighter radius without kinking?

Your passion and drive on this project are unmatched. It least your lady doesn't have to worry about your whereabouts evenings. She must be a very tolerant sole.

Don't want to sound like a broken record, but as long as it's apart, why not cryo treat the valves and springs as a minimum. Shipping would be cheap, your springs will be more resilient and normalized regarding stresses in the metal. That equates to more even tension and longevity. Valves will dissipate heat more efficiently and you will add life to the ware surfaces.

H, Haven’t been over here in a while, and just caught up with your thread. I don’t know if you’ve assembled the bottom end yet, but if not, as a minimum, IMHO, get the pistons, rings, and bearings Cryo treated. Shipping on the light parts is nothing compared to the benefits. When I did my first build, I was stupid and used OEM rods, which I bent. I had Cryo treated everything. At work, I have access to very accurate measuring equipment, and I had mapped the head surface prior to my first assembly. End to end it was flat within .0002, when I pulled the head after 40K miles, to start over again, it mapped at .0004 end to end. So not only do things run cooler, due to the created micro grain structure, this confirms to me that the head was for the most part completely stress relieved. The biggest issue that I see with cryo treatment is the lack of empirical data to support it. Obviously I’m a believer, and I’d think with what you’re building, you’d be looking for any benefits you can find.

I'd recommend firing off a question to Lucky at IPD...You'll get the streight scoop if you buy from them or not. Great resourse, and they know what will fit with or without spacers.

I have 17 in. Nebula Rep's (IPD) with their BBK. I'm having to use 10mm spacers, which has proven to be a bit of a headache, as they are not hubcentric. So I just ordered a set of 15mm which are hubcentric. A short trip to the shop at work, and I'll turn down the backside to 10mm! problem solved.