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Keaton85

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Everything posted by Keaton85

  1. Keaton85
    If you keep the vacuum hooked up it will make exhaust fumes go toward the pump. Either remove them or just flip the one way valve right before the solenoid. That way it will look all stock of that's what your going for. In my opinion, removing every last trace will free up a lot of space. I even put a 10watt 30ohm resister in place of the solenoid.
  2. Keaton85
    Are you 100% sure you put the diode in the right direction? And not backwards?
  3. Keaton85
    Yup, cap the vacuum tree and remove those lines! only takes 5mins and your asking for trouble leaving that hooked up.
  4. Keaton85
    Just a 10W 30-33ohm resistor works perfect. It's rather large so I tape it into the harness.
  5. Keaton85
    They all have the same 1.1V voltage drop. Thus going with a 1N4004 should work since it's rating it just to handle higher voltage, with the same spec for 1.1V which is all your looking for.
  6. Keaton85
    Readiness is a real pain in the butt to get. It takes time... Umm and you didn't deal with the vacuum solenoid so your just opening the exhaust right into the pump! Not good
  7. Keaton85
    ARD is software which removes the need for anything hardware. This is a hardware fix that tricks the ECU. Either way doesn't matter.
  8. Keaton85
    what is the resistance on the relay. Idono if it's possible to install a resistor in place of the relay and still keep the ECU happy. Or you could flash a new BIN file to your computer without SAS and call it a day haha. although you have CEL and readiness checks down there in southern Maine. Past Wiscasset, we don't have CEL or readiness inspection requirements
  9. Keaton85
    Did you start at 0 when counting? As the first pin is 0 and the second is 1 then so forth?
  10. Keaton85
    Reset the CEL with a scanner? Vacuum hoses don't matter.
  11. Keaton85
    It's fine
  12. Keaton85
    Check the resistance on the solenoid and make sure you soldered the correct pins. Is the pump unplugged?
  13. Keaton85
    I think I PMed him a while back about it but no responds....
  14. Keaton85
    The numbers are on the white plastic. Kinda hard to see. Get a flashlight and look around and you will find them. Once you have the diode installed you must unplug the pump and block off the solenoid vacuum at the vacuum tree. All this has been covered about a half dozen times trough this topic.
  15. Keaton85
    Yup, looks normal...
  16. Keaton85
    You don't need anything. Just be patient above removing it as the VVT hubs are hard to clear the head. I have to take the VVT cam with the cover most times by using my fingers to hold one side while messing with the VVT side.
  17. Keaton85
    yes
  18. Keaton85
    Comes with everything... but you could get used valves or a used head and just have your machine shop redo it. No need to lap to head unless it's way out of spec
  19. Keaton85
    Did you count the terminals correctly? It goes 30, 31, 32 and so forth. Not, 31, 32, 33... I always catch myself starting at one, not zero.
  20. Keaton85
    They are labeled in the ECU... As for the resistor, a 30-35ohm one. Nothing special just whatever is in that range. Try and get a 1/4 watt or 1 watt just in case..
  21. Keaton85
    You can test the solenoid. If it has 30-40ohms or resistance it's fine. Also instead of getting another solenoid, just install a resistor of 30-35ohms in place of the solenoid.
  22. Keaton85
    Works perfect. I've done it on about 6-7 vehicles with thousands of miles on all of the diode mods. All in te family, so I've been able to check codes. Did you put it in the ECU? Like I said forget the wiring!
  23. Keaton85
    Just got another diode and install it into the ECU. Then you know 100% that it's correct. In my opinion splicing into the wiring is just asking for trouble and requires twice as much work.
  24. Keaton85
    For the rear O2 sensor?
  25. Keaton85
    Lucky... A cheap O2 and SAS delete tune??? Without any the performance tuning!
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