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Keaton85

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Everything posted by Keaton85

  1. Also, the other issue, is what wattage should these resistors be? REALLY don't want those buggers getting hot...
  2. Nice! that's good to know that the resistor worked. I think I posted that in the past but never actually tried is. Although my resistance readings on all of the solenoids were 30ohms and not 35ohms. ummm, anyway, I guess I will have to stop by radio shack and pick up a 300% mark up resistor haha. Wondering if it's best to place the resistor in the harness or inside the ECU solder to the pins just like the diode is?
  3. Nice!!! I've always wanted to do that on a beater. Just for hauling motorcycles.
  4. It's not even the expansion, is the movement of the metals when you get them really hot and then cool them down fast with water. Doing so a few times will break the rusty seal that the threads make with eachother. I just do it when the exhaust is really hot or most times it comes off without messing with it at all. Also I use a dremmel and cut the hose BEFORE trying to take the plug out of the exhaust as the tube usually swings around being a major PITA.
  5. Put a M16 drain plug in there and call it a day. you can get them at advance auto parts, pretty cheap. I don't use a washer since it rusts itself on there and never had any come loose on any vehicles.
  6. How about the AST 5570A service light reset tool?? http://home.onthenet.com.au/~eurosoft/SanTools/volvo.htm
  7. Midcoast Maine, so although possible, highly unlikely as this vehicle was bought with about 30K miles from a used car dealer. If it was from that service they didnt use it for long! Another one to ad to the list is the 97 850 turbo 5spd AWD.
  8. Ive only ever seen ONE factory fitted rear heated seat, which I promptly ripped out and installed in my T5M haha. I thought the rear heated seats were only in the UK? and never imported.... ummm
  9. umm, I think N/A didn't come with the OBD port but it doesn't really matter as you can do everything from the DTC box under the hood. Idono if you can install a OBD port though?
  10. haha, to cold out there for ya?
  11. No, you just need to open your hood and use DTC..
  12. nope, but you have a DTC box. Let me revise that, you have OBD-II ish. As the 94-95 volvo had OBD-I but it works with OBD-II. weird but it works.
  13. Idono how else to explain the english that I speak of....
  14. Yup, you are correct, it's pin A32 and A37. In the video that's pin A33 and A38, which is incorrect! Chuck????
  15. - Relay is under the fuse cover, doesnt matter though as you don't need to mess with it. - Yes, everything can be removed except the relay and the electrical connection to the solenoid - Cruise control pump All you need to know is the diode install and that the relay and solenoid need to be electrically connected. Everything else you can do what you want with, just keep the pump disconnected. EXTREMELY simple, don't over think it.
  16. As long as you keep the relay and the solenoid connect to power everything else can be removed. - Remove the vacuum lines and cap the tree - remove the pump and cap the intake - remove the check valve on the exhaust and plug the hole. Don't over think it... Connected***
  17. do you know what google is ;)
  18. That will work, as it's a vag-com. As for VOl-FCR, ummm, you will have to learn about the usual spots to get software and it's not something we can link to. Hint: TPB
  19. Just install the latest drivers, make sure your on port 1 and the speed is tuned down a bit. I run both this and the ELM327 on my Mac under windows 7 without issue. Also works on XP as I had a netbook that ran it for data logging.
  20. I have both and like I said, vagcom only!! It works instantly. ELM327 does not work, it works with other software but NOT volfcr
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