Keaton85

Do you have a vagcom cable? The torrent serial version works perfect with the USB...

Did you read what I wrote above? VOL-FCR beats the pants off that unit just a fraction of the cost.

You need to find VOL-FCR online (free but if your not a wise googler then you will have to buy it) Buy a VAG-COM cable on ebay (cheap-o ones will work fine, don't get fancy) This is the best set-up to get since it's cheap and will read & reset any system. NOTE: for the people seeing this from googling, this does not work for 99+ Volvos.

Yeah, come to think about it maybe I will try flipping my timing belt next time around. ya know put the smooth side inward! make it go real fast... This IS the method, it takes 10minutes, costs 99 cents and you don't have to reinvent the wheel...

Note to my last post: I was wrong about the rear O2 sensor, I was thinking about the cat. efficiency voltage drop! Correction: The FRONT O2 sensor has the voltage drop. and this system runs at start-up so I believe it's already in close loop during warm up (might be wrong). Then at highway/cruising speed it does a system test for a few minutes, which will set the readiness code. I don't get your method? as this method is the only one that works as the SAS solenoid HAS to be the trigger. The pump used to be the trigger but that came on before the solenoid which caused the ECU to freak since the voltage drop was sooner then expected.

Your way over thinking it! The reason it is connected to the SAS solenoid is to cause a voltage drop when that solenoid received a signal. The ECU is getting the readings it needs when it needs them. It doesn't matter if we mess with the rear O2 anyway. It does not control the air fuel ratios thus engine performance and fuel economy are sustained. This is not just some hack job! It has been tried and test. Myself, personally have tens of thousands of miles on this mod with not a single issue. Solder in the diode then remove everything except the solenoid and relay. Easy peasy!

Would you rather pay hundreds to repair the system or 99 cents to completely remote it forever?

Also, just an FYI. The plug for the exhaust works great without having a gasket! I tried to find a nice copper crush washer without any luck. Although I did not cut the bolt down at all which should be done since it does protrude into the exhaust pretty deep.

I would like to know as well. I have a bunch of these systems deleted through out the family without any codes (pending or mature).

Mother f$cker, just order 12 touchpads! damn slow internet anyone want to buy one for cheap?

Amazon has a few for cheap, although I just found a nice rocketfish on ebay for 10 shipped! haha who the heck has tube TVs? damn! even my old fogy non-techy parents have a 32" LED TV I guess I can't say much as my 42" was given to me and it's my first TV I've owned... You guys have your Wiis hacked for USB? The heads must just be one big pixel!

playing tennis on my 42" makes the Wii look like an atari! About to try a component cable but don't think it will help.....

Sweet! Thanks, so 16x1.5 it is...

I don't think it has been stated yet. I would love to know as well! Aaron: Looks like the cotter pin on the wastegate arm has rusted away.

give them to other members. I myself will likely go through a fair amount of these...

yeah, you buy diesel... That's kinda why I bought a POS TDI...

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You can also get them on ebay, I spent 99 cents for 100 count. instead of 99 cents for 2 Whos the assholes that are negativing me? WTF! I'm saying that 99 cents for TWO is a freakin rip off....

I just cut the tube and then crimped it off... no way i'm getting that rusty bolt off of there! Edit: whos the -1 happy pain in the ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD?

Which delete did youdo though, as the first delete set a 410 after a while. You should t have any 410 code if installed correctly.

Idono, I just pulled a gross leak code form my parents XC today. although that was after idling for about 20mintues, with almost no fuel and very cold outside. A good time for an evap code. Also I have evap codes on both my other converts, but It's safe to say that the systems are shot so probably just a coincidence.

Aaron, I have my T5M sitting for the winter so if you want me to do the diode mod I can send you my ECU and I can do the soldering for ya. I bought my lifetime supply at .01 each. Also the solenoid has a resistance of 30-35Ohms so installing a 35Ohm resister would probably delete that as well. Also you should be able to delete the relay....

Wouldn't be a problem if we didnt go all fancy on the FS side....

The A32 to B38 doesnt work, that is activated when the pump signal is set. You want it on the A32 to A37 where is activates when the vacuum solenoid is set. That's your issue, the diode is installed on the wrong pins. So reread this topic... idono how you got it on the B38...

I would check the diode, also make sure that the relay works and the solenoid works.