Keaton85

It takes a while to set a readiness state. I just did 5 of these on my vehicles. I have about 300miles on one that still has no readiness set. Also on my T5M I have never seen any system go into readiness which is odd. Then on the only N/A it set full readiness in like 100miles! All about the same driving, so these systems are a little finicky in my opinion. Just a note to everyone, make sure you go 3 in for 32 and 8 in for 37 as the first pin is 30.

Ok I will go over this again... Keep: Vacuum solenoid above the fan and the relay up next to the strut tower Remove: Pump under battery, valve on the exhaust, vacuum lines to and from solenoid, and the hoses. BUT, if you don't want to bother plugging the hole in the intake box and the exhaust then you can leave the parts and just unplug the pump, and unplug the vacuum line from the tree and cap it. You DO NOT WANT to leave the pump or the vacuum plugged in or it might work half way and show the computer an even higher voltage drop! Also keep in mind if the valve on the exhaust is leaking and the pump was good when you did the mod, it will likely go bad. SO if the pump is useable ebay it! Also just a note, if anyone wants to have someone else do the mod, I can mod the ECU for you. Just shoot me a PM if interested....

I agree but if you remove the rest of the system then the solenoid could be suspect for an inspection station if they get to in depth. Very rare I know but it's something to consider. With a resistor to match the resistance of the solenoid itself could be hidden and the whole system would be gone.

Can a resistor be added to the solenoid connection in place of it in order to make the computer think it's there?

Unplug the pump and then unplug and block off the vacuum line from the tree. Simple way.. You shouldn't have the pump plugged in an the vacuum line to the valve on the exhaust should be blocked off.

This should take care of it. I would test the air pump, vacuum solenoid and check the valve on the exhaust. Although by the time you get that all done you could have just done the diode mod.

+1 for a working mod! I just scanned the system and the SAS monitor has passed. Thus it went through it's testing and set a status Ready! haha glad to see that system go green... I soldered it into the ECU due to it being easier to access then under the tray.

No delay relay needed for this. I already bought one and this came up!! Errr

After about an hour or two of driving I scanned the vehicle. Came up with a pending P0455 code which is normal (it was on before) but no SAS pending and that is what I would have received ever time with the P0455 code. I will post back when the monitor status goes to ready....

REMOVED POST: I read the latest on the TDR topic... I was just about to install a low-pass filter on the solenoid PWM wiring to activate the diode but this works a lot better haha good work Volvo5.0 I will edit my last how-to to point to this topic. and P.S. I wasnt trying to get credit for your work when I said I would do a write up. I was just trying to help... Update: Switched the diode over, so far it works. System runs on first start and no direct codes. Now I have to find a exhaust cap.

removed

same here, I seem to not get any notifications anymore and I have not changed my settings

My first 850 had a replaced engine because the lady thought she was low on oil so thinking that one of those large 5 quart bottles was a single quart, she added it haha. in a sense it hydro locked the system! but a little over filling is not going to blow seals..

My study hall teacher in HS was Dick Cummings... :)

Ill give you a hint, NEVER use IE.... or Vista for that matter but thats your choice. Edit: OS X leopard with Camino 1.5.5 works perfect!

neither one of my favorite companies so i could care less... gmail and apple are my two... gotta love being able to store 3gigs of files on your email :)

haha idono why but doing away with the MAF sensor and having a MAP sensor in its place sells me right there!

I would really like to be able to upload images strictily for use on the Wiki, i know how to keep the size down and im welcome to harassment if any are to large haha. I have already added a few images but my host might not like the added bandwidth usage along with the fact that i dont have good FTP uploading capabilities through my host. I would like to have them in one spot ya know? instead of spreading them through different free image hosting sites. Edit: here is what i have added real quick from images i had while doing my turbo swap. http://wiki.volvospeed.com/index.php/Service_%26_Repair

Why dont we all start working on the Wiki site, I will write a lot more how-tos if i can upload images to the Wiki... This way people can add other information ya know? Im working on a turbo swap how-to at the moment on the wiki while also adding other info as i go. what does everyone think about sticking to the Wiki?

haha what is a wiki...well you bolt it up to your N/A and it gives you 50+HP... Anyway, a wiki is a really good idea, i was thinking about setting up a wiki for automotive manuals so it could be a free website for all types of how-tos on every car instead of having to pay thousands apon thousands for ALLDATA and what not.

How about twin turbos.... a smaller and a larger, one for higher and lower RPMs?

Its off of a 95 (i think) 854T which wouldnt start due to the ECU reflash i beleive, and i installed it into a 94 855T and it did the same thing by not starting. Both of the ECU numbers are the same by the way

Or maybe the marking is "NFG" - No F@cking Good haha

haaa, i didnt mean to post this in Maintenance.. can someone please move this to performance?

My boss gave me an ECU that he had switched out of a customers car a few years back. The kid had had it reflashed and it ended up not starting after that so my boss(mechanic) replaced the ECU with a stock unit. Now i have the ECU and i tried it in my car 94 855 turbo, all the lights came on with the flashing arow but it did not start. I'm wondering is the ECU has really been modded since there are slight crayon marks "NF6" i beleive they say and there is white out over two screws so that you could tell if it has been opened. So anyone have a remapped ECU that you got back with markings of this sort on it? Thanks -Aja D.