wizzard_al

VIDA says nothing about any sealer on the oil pump. Of course, it also neglects to mention the o-ring around the pump. I was putting together a block to potentially ship to someone, and I put in a new o-ring, and I was amazed that it was too big. It actually didn't fit the pump tightly. I wonder if you got an o-ring that didn't fit well, and folder over on the way in, and left a space for oil to leak?

Everyone knows that Hussein has that itch we all experience, but his is stronger and needs more to stop it. I found it hard to believe he wouldn't mod any new car he got, and he proved me right. Just waiting to see what comes next!

You install it for each cylinder being measured. so you do this 10 times for a 5 cylinder engine, 5 each for intake, and 5 each for exhaust. I've got the tool, and your biggest problem is picking the valve tapped that is close in thickness to what you want. that is what takes time if you are installing the cams after having a valve job done.

Good question. Volvo doesn't have instructions for disassembling the M56, they only exchange them from Sweden. So, don't know from that angle. Wonder why he says pink stuff doesn't work? It is used on the head to hold on the cam cover, and also on the pan to block mating surfaces, and those get hotter in all liklihood han the trans. Unless the transfluid eats the pink stuff.

Hussein: Tasca lists them for $4.42 http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/1256343?search_str=1256343 I did not check availability, it is Sunday. BUT, I just ran across a site that says the part was superceded, with the new part number being 31368044 Discount Volvo parts $6.29 http://www.discountvolvopartsonline.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=1256343&make=Volvo&action=oePartSearch&siteid=217947 So, Tasca give a price on that as well $6.03 http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/31368044?search_str=31368044 Volvopartswebstore has it as well $6.81 http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=31368044 MySwedishparts.com $7.02 http://www.myswedishparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=31368044&make=Volvo&action=oePartSearch&siteid=213784 Turner Volvo $6.50 http://turnervolvoparts.com/parts/2005/Volvo/S60/T5/index.cfm?siteid=215507 But the strange thing is that none of the following list this bolt: RockAuto, FCPGroton, eEuroparts.com. Typically, I go to these vendors first. When I did a parts search in VIDA 2012D, I found this new part number listed for the XC90 B5254T9 engine, but in the same listing, it shows the following: Flange screw 12.00 needed part # 31258099 B5254T2, M10x117 used in this engine. My conclusion, they changed the part number at least twice, so look for any one of the following 3 part numbers: 1256343 31258099 31368044 Discount Volvo Parts says that 31368044 is the latest, and 1256343 and 31368044 were superceded.

No, the oil pressure is reduced by the large gap in the rod bearings, and that lowers the pressure everywhere. The oil pressure sender gets it oil from around carnk bearing #4? I think, but it doesn't matter which bearing is bad, the pressure is low everywhere.

You need to look for '99 or '00 S70 turbo cars, I think Hussein said those were the closes to what you want, so that you don't have to fabricate all new water lines to the turbo that that are different in length from the originals.

the RN pan deletes the connections to the radiator, everything is self contained. The N pan has a thermostat in it that directs the oil to the cooler when it gets to a certain temperature. This is missing, and you simply need to forget about the oil line connections to the radiator. You also need the correct water pipes. there are 2 that you need. The one from the water pump to the radiator that goes around the back of the engine, and the one that has the drain cock on it. both have a tube for the water lines to connect to the oil cooler. Hussein has pictures of the various versions of those water lines in one of his posts.

Crank windows came in RN blocks, which started in 1999 mid production. 139.5 mm rods until 2002, when they switched to 147 mm rods.

Where did you get the syncrho? Salvage from another trans?

The M10 intermediate carrier bolts are part number: 1256343 and you need 12 of them. Same bolts for all white blocks through at least the RN engines.

Hastings will sell the rings.

Harbor Freight sells an engine brace that will work. It can be done without a lift, but it is definitely easier with one. In the Seattle area, we have a place called Self Service Garage, and it has a 2 post, a 4 post, and a scissors jack typ lift, and you can do your own work and simply pay an hourly rate. Need to do this on a daily rate, because it does take time. Still cheaper than trying to buy your own lift.

When I had my clutch replaced on my S60, the mechanic wanted to take it out the bottom. Dropped the cross member, and we had it out quickly. Only real change from Hussein is that he disconnected the steering rack from the crossmember, and used bungee cords to keep it from disconnecting from the steering column. Having taken the engine out of an 850 wagon, similar to Hussein's V70, I can say that out the bottom is probably the best way, by far!

Hussein: Lookiing for the thread and photo where you show the various versions of the water pipe fir dufferent years. Can you point me to that?

About the same pain in the rear that taking an M47 trans and overdrive out of a 244 Turbo. NOt quite as heavy perhaps, but still a royal pain. You have my sympathy, done too many grage floor jobs where I was worn out afterwards, but the pleasure of having done it myself eventually arrived, about two days later.

Yes, need to put on the sealer on the top of the head, or on the top cover, and be sure to put start up lube on the cam lobes and the lifters, don't want them galling because you turned it over without any oil on it. Also need the Volvo tool eventually to set the cams to the right position when you are ready to put in on the block.

The plugs were different on "R" cars, becuase the head was thicker than the standard heads. The T5 from '05, I think, had the same head, so they had to use the same longer reach plugs. Head gasket had nothing to do with it, nor did the pistons.

If those are Hussein's pisons for 147 mm rods, and he is using the 90 mm crank, you are right, the 93.2 mm crank will only make the problem even worse. Consider this, volvo went from 139.5 mm rods to 147 mm rods about '02, and that was with the 90 mm crank, which is what I think Hussein showed in his first picture 90 crank/147 rods. When they went to the 93.2 mm crank, they went to 143 mm rods (also had 21 vs earlier 23 mm piston pins.) 93.2 mm crank is 3.2 mm longer stroke, and the 143 mm rod is 4 mm shorter rod than the 143. Almost, but not quite putting the piston pin bore right at the bottom of the oil ring and in the same relative location to the top of the piston. And, I think Hussein was showing a 147 mm piston on the left, and a 139.5 mm piston on the right, so you can see the difference in the height of the piston fromt the crown to the rings is almost the same in both pistons, but the 147 mm piston has the piston pin coser to the top of the piston, maybe 7.5 mm closer? So if you used the 147 rod with the 93.2 crank, you'd have to push the piston pin into the are of the 1st or 2nd ring. Or, you have the ring lands much closer to the piston crown. Boosted engines tend to have their rings further down from the top of the piston, from what I've read, to keep them from having the top of the piston collapse into the top ring land from the extra pressure. So probably not wise to move the piston ring too much further up towards the top of the piston. My pistons are at the shop for sizing the bores, but I recall that the rings on the pistons that go with 143 mm rods have the piston rings slightly higer on the piston, but not dramatically so. Another point, Volvo went to thinner rings with the later engines, don't recall the year, but the 93.2 mm crank pistons definitely have thinner rings, and that allows them to be a bit closer together, thus oil ring is higher in the piston, thus allowing you to get the piston pin just that much higher in the piston, because the rings don't take up as much real estate. Thanks for the photos Hussein. I'll have to photgraph my pistons from the 93.2 mm crank to show the relative position of the ring lands and the piston pin hole. May take a bit.

147 mm rods will not work with the 93.2 mm crank. I have an engine disassembled with that crank, and the piston pins are already quite close to the oil ring, and they have 143 mm rods. You could play with fire and get the buttons that are used in some pistons so that the rings have something behind them at the piston pin holes, but I think that is playing with fire, even if your piston supplier says it can be done.

Hussein: link broken.

The pipe is designed to run water from the thermostat to the back of the head, and it is designed to run parallel to the breather line from the PVC system to the PTC on the intake pipe. This breather line takes fumes from the crankcase and runs them into the intake before the turbo. The purpose of the water line is to keep the fumes warm, so that in the winter, water in the fumes doesn't condense and freeze in the line, or at the PTC. That would cause massive overpressure in the block, and blow out seals. The PTC itself is connected to the electrical system, and is designed to maintain a temperature of 80 degrees C. Leave it to the Swedes to know how to deal with freezing water in the system in the winter. Later model cars had the breather line also connect to the bottom of the intake manifold with a banjo bolt.