Seamus

The 5-7 works great but I challenge you to find a gauge that is that accurate that low a pressure, hence the broad tolerance. If you adjust it you can get it into the ballpark and try a turn or two to fine-tune it. The first thing that will happen is the engine will pre-detonate at low RPMs and the ecu will not be able to dump the boost fast enough. This will turn on a check engine light on giving you a boost control code.

NO! Not exactly! IPD had a tutorial on how to properly set up the WG. I would suggest looking at that and get a calibrated low pressure gauge to check it out..

Doesn’t look to bad but you must get rid of those pickup truck “U” clamps!! Just sayin!!! :(

If you knew WTF….. you were looking at, even on your own car, you would know that the leaking seal ring fills the well with fuel, this fuel eats the potting where the wires enter and cause it to crumble. I have yet to see a leak through the wires, though I guess it is possible. I have just not seen it. And unlike you, I have seen hundreds of different 850 fuel pumps. If you could read you would understand I am not picking posts apart I am only adding important info that people like you do not have. Ask your mommy to explain…

If you could read properly you would find that that was not a contradiction, more like MY observation. I replace about one fuel pump a week and correct other people’s fuel pump “repairs” about once every few months. You have “fixed” your car only?? It sounds to me like I am the one doing the homework and you are just working at home (under the shade tree). Or do you call doing your homework looking at people’s posts on the internet??

I have never seen one leak from the wires but I see them leak from the black rubber seal around the pump frequently. When they leak they fill the cavity where the hoses and wires enter the pump holder (The white plastic thing). Sometimes just tightening the black ring will stop the leak other times it was assembled carelessly and the seal did not end up in the correct spot and was damaged. Check the ring. If it is tight remove it and inspect the seal.

The early cars had a snorkel that reached down the front of that radiator about 8”. This was prone to taking in lots of water and filling the airbox if you hit a vary deep puddle of water. Volvo did away with the long snorkel and put the shield there to direct water away from the opening. I took mine off (dang! I forgot to put that on my mod list in the new garage). I would suspect if you are planning on fording rivers you should leave it on, if not…Junk it..

Yes! A 96 and later will be the best.

Yea!! Put some "Love stuff" in the gas tank.. :lol:

Why don’t you flush it? That way you know it will be dead. :lol:

Hey Kevin, There guys need all this crap WHY????? They have a......Well, because it makes???.........uhhh.?.? Because it makes them cool!!! You and I on the other hand are cool for being cool....right? Who's with me??

All M-4.3 and 4.4 cars in most states are exempt from needing ALL the readiness codes. There is a glitch in the ECU that does not commit all the readiness parameters to non- volatile memory, so every time the car is started the ECU needs to go make most of the checks again. This can take months of driving. The “smog test machine” knows these cars are exempt but the problem is the smog tech needs to choose a model from the menu and not type in the car individually. For example; when the tech puts in “98 Volvo” and is given a choice of V70, C70 and you have a S-70 tell him to choose something from the menu and go with it otherwise the machine does not know the car is exempt. I have dealt with this problem with the state of California and was instrumental in getting these cars exempt from needing all (more accurately all but one) readiness codes set. There is a Volvo bulletin as well as a California appendix addition (90 something??) about there 3.4 and 4.4 cars. Another thing I should add is that if the car will not set MOST of the readiness codes you need to reset the adaptive on the ECU and start driving it all over again.

Rear latch??