Brad850

I know I told you already but I bought em Greg. Apparently the solid shifter bushings put stress on the cables over time because there is no play in them. The Kaplhenke bearings feel amazing. I remember there being tight spots with the solid bushings, now it feels like I'm shiftin on some big old taters

Aw yea lets get this car on the road bitch!!!!!!!!! I'll help you with the install....maybe

Does anyone know if the wheels have to be removed during 4 wheel alignments? There's barely any clearance around the lug bolts on my Eikers and I'm worried someones going to blast them off with their air impact and fuck up the paint. Nvm I googled it, looks like i'm safe.

It looked like Jupiter in my eye piece at least. It was actually fucking amazing seeing it in real life. My phone doesn't do it justice, but you can see 4 moons! Greg's 850 reflects off the east coast so light pollution is bad.

I'm so jealous. You make it look too easy lol

I cant handle that

u sound high

byootiful

Speak for your self slow bro

I didn't know Texas had trees

Any of yous guys into telescopes? I've had an orion starmax 102mm for years but never really used it. From what I gather it's a pretty decent scope. I'm currently looking into buying my first set of eye pieces but not entirely sure what to get. I think I'm going to buy a set of 7.5, 12.5, and 20mm sirius plossls to get started.

Idk why, but I've been hooked watching this guys videos for the past month. They call him review brah, and he wears nothing but suits.

Adam I'll trade you for my S70. It's only 17 years old.

Are there special shops people go to for performance oriented adjustments? Kind of unrelated note I'm planning on going to Volvo soon to get a 4 wheel alignment. Mainly because I need to adjust the rear toe now that I replaced everything back there. It's funny after doing so much work on your car you don't trust anyone else to touch it.

I've noticed with the kaplhenke sub bushings just starting from a stop is so much smoother and more instant. The car feels planted, and the added vibration is negligible. As far as my daily goes it makes the car so much more pleasant to drive. I have them in the R too, but that's currently getting a shit load of other suspension thingers and I haven't pushed it around corners yet.

Basically use bondo/fiberglass to strengthen/rebuild the mounting tabs, as well as the whole backside of the dash. The problem with our dashes is more than just those 4 tabs. If you push/pull on any of them, you will see a large area around them begin to flex. Adam gave me the idea, and my dash is completely solid now. Probably for the first time in 15 years. I forgot to take pictures of the process, here's adams writeup. The metal tab method a lot of people do/used to do does absolutely nothing, because the plastic still cracks, and theres still stress in the rest of the dash. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Fiberglass-Resin-Repair-Pint/dp/B000BO9NOO/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1479871227&sr=8-33-spons&keywords=bondo+fiberglass&psc=1 I used two of these.

hahahaha i swear I was thinking about posting this yesterday. Sorry kev

I glued a manual lip to it for the boot from a donor console. The whole thing was starting to crack and look terrible, so I cut it up to retrieve the lip. Going to glue it to a mint birch center console this weekend if I can find the time.

So i had to trash a birch R center console. Luckily I have 2 more, but anyway I can confirm 100 percent now that they used real birch (or whatever wood) for those. It actually smells good too.

This videos tough to watch. I need a drink

Thanks Tim. That's really good to know. I cut it just enough so it has about an inch protruding from the other end of the radiator. I installed it right under the upper main inlet (in the fins), which I'm assuming is the hottest part of the Rad. I've seen mixed reviews on these things, so now I'm assuming maybe it's just a bad product. I also have to check which temperature my brother ordered. I'm seeing they range from 160F to 210F. I'm thinking 190F should be the way to go, with a 175F shutoff.

Would trimming off an inch or two of this coolant temp probe stop it from working correctly? We run one of these in my dads v8 740, and while the fan comes on at the correct time, it shuts off too fast, and then the temp gauge starts to climb during idle. I had to shorten the probe in order to fit it correctly, but I'm wondering now if that's causing my issue. Probably a stupid decision.