Tightmopedman9

I've been having issues with pushing large amount of oil out of my valve cover vents, despite redoing the baffles multiple time. I've been reluctant to drain my catch can back to the oil pan, so I've been spending a lot of money on oil I'm building a new engine and I will be modifying the oil drains for above oil level return.

For your crankcase ventilation system you have no additional valve cover vents, correct? You're only running the stock block vent, the old turbo drain return as a new vent and the stock valve cover vent, right?

NVM.

Why not beep based on KRCOUNT instead of BITS? You could have a variable based pitch based on the number of detonation events vs time or perhaps a different pitch during multiple cylinder knock events.

my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/405542-dynocom-vs-mustang-dyno-vs-dynojet.html

Just have them check that they're within spec for size and out of round. If you just give them to them they'll know what to do. You can find the spec for bore diameter and out of round in VIDA.

Switching the polarity of the crank sensor is just a matter of popping out the pins at the connector and reversing them, but for $75 shipped you got a good deal

You just need a single mass flywheel, came on every manual 850 produced. You can buy one for less than $50 from most any junkyard...

I need more sensors in my engine bay, it is on my to-do list. With that said, I don't think I'll ever invest in three pressure sensors before the turbo. The plan is 3 IAT sensors, pre-turbo, post-turbo and post-intercooler. Along with a pre-intercooler MAP sensor and an exhaust gas pressure sensor. It is not a china intercooler, it is DO88. Well I will agree with you that crank horsepower is more relevant for direct comparison, it isn't exactly practical. I have no engine dyno, nor the desire to remove the engine for testing (at this point at least). So I will base comparisons on the only way I have to directly measure power, at the wheels. I am still on stock cams, I wanted to see how much power I could get from a 100% stock head setup (cams, intake, exhaust). I can already tell that the effciency is dropping immensely, and I will be upgrading cam shafts shortly. I am running 13.5º at peak VE, increasing to 17.25º at 7500RPM. I haven't had the car on the dyno yet, so I've stayed at these timing levels until I can fine tune reaching MBT. With a stock head setup do you really think that MBT is as far advanced as 20º+?

I used the Borgwarner 'matchbot', a very nifty program. It automatically calculates PR using altitude as an input, not exactly 100% accurate, but good enough. I do not have a wheel speed sensor, but I would assume I am overspeeding the turbo a bit past 6000RPM, however I think the matchbot program is a bit conservative. Also, with a stock head I do not think that the actual airflow is approaching the theoretically calculated amount from the matchbot. Do you mean crank HP, if so, yes it's probably around 550chp. However, with the AWD system intact it's probably loosing up to 30% on its' way to the ground.

From the ashes a fire shall be woken...

Thanks for the compliments, but to be honest I'm a little disappointed by the current performance level. I had expected to be around 480whp when fully tuned on E85, but the power feels to be around 430whp. For next summer I will be building a RN 'R' head with a medium port job, ENEM cams, autotech retainers and springs, tubular exhaust manifold and intake manifold. I'm tossing around the idea of pairing this with a 10:1 2.3L block, but am currently undecided. By the way, this run was made using rudimentary VVT control through M4.4, switching the cams from 10º of advance to 10º retard at 4000RPM. I have not. I don't have any pulls till 130, but 60-100MPH is 4.85 seconds (very) slightly uphill. I haven't done a leak down test yet. This is a compressor map from that pull, as you can see I go very far off the map past 6000RPM. Interseting, none of the pictures in the thread at all? From all of my computers they appear just fine.

I think it may have been an oil pressure related issue and the VVT hubs were clacking until an adequate oil pressure had been built up. Although that doesn't really explain the noise going away and then popping back up a few minutes later. I just didn't feel comfortable leaving the car running long enough with the thought that there might be some foreign chunk of metal floating around. This is the Volvo tool for checking valve lash:

I had motivation to drop the pan because I bought Hussein's crank scraper, Focus RS oil cooler and S60R baffled oil pan. The inlet coolant port on the Focus RS oil is rotated vs the stock cooler. Hussein elected to bend his stock coolant pipes. I decided to cut and re-weld the inlet. Stock configuration: Hussein's setup: Re-weld: I also redid the catch can setup, before it vented to atmosphere via two large filters. This allowed for a lot of in cabin smell and made me and my passengers quite nauseous after a short drive. I added a E-vac scavenger from Vibrant into the downpipe. I then added a checkvalve in line (NAPA 2-29000) to prevent backfires from pressurizing the crankcase. Since the Vibrant is only a 10AN fitting and I have two 10AN and one 12AN into my breather box I wanted to add an additional outlet. I welded a 3/4NPT pipe nipple to the intake tube and placed another check valve in line. This check valve will prevent negative pressure from the venturi in the exhaust from sucking intake air in, instead of crankcase gases. However, it will open up as soon as there is any positive pressure in the crankcase. With this setup I get -.3psi above 1000RPM until redline at 24psi. Not exactly an insane amount of vacuum, but at least there is no positive pressure, and I don't have to smell crank case gasses. Some overdue pictures of the torque rod I re-purposed from an EVO and my Mercedes projector retrofits into C70 jewels.

First thing I did was take the pan off and inspect. That's when I took the picture of the keeper on top of the oil pan. I rotated the crank plenty of times. Never ran into any resistance. I got her all back together, started her up and the noise was still there. Kicked some things around the garage, cleaned up a bit and started it again without any noise. After 5 minutes of idling she's silent. I'm gonna clean the engine bay tomorrow and take her for a spin. I'll post some pictures of new additions shortly.

I picked up 9 shorter tappets based on the measurements I took, and by shuffling around the tappets I already had I was able to get all but two of the valves within spec. I'm about an hour away from startup now. I visually checked all the keepers after install and then used the valve compressor tool to depress each valve. I also hammered on the tip of each valve with a plastic dowel. I have a stethoscope, the problem is that I didn't want to leave the car running for an extended amount of time when it sounded like that, in case there was something rattling around that might cause more damage. Now that I know there is no foreign material, if the noise comes back I'll be able to trace the sound more thoroughly. My first thought when I heard the noise was bottom end. It had the characteritic noise of a spun bearing or some other crank ailment. However, the noise was definitely coming from the top end.

I found using a long magnetized straight pick and a dab of grease on the valve side of the keeper is the best way to do it. Although it took me a few lost keepers to figure that out. I got my hands on the Volvo tool for checking valve clearance and this is what I got: Spec is listed at the bottom, Exhaust - .4 ± .03mm Intake - .2 ± .03mm The 4 digit number on the left hand side is the number written on the bottom of the tappet and is the dimensions in mm. 1608=16.08mm As you can see I'm way too tight on all but 2 of the valves. It looks like I might have swapped tappets between the exhaust and intake on #5, but if I switched back then I'd be really tight on the exhaust side. Volvo makes tappets as short as 15.86mm, so I'll be able to get everything back to spec. However, I don't really think that too small of valve clearance would cause noise.

Solid lifter head, yes. There is a possibility I switched lifters, but not much of one. I made this out of some spare HDPE before starting the job: The noise is there from the start, not heat related. The noise sounds more like a clunking than a clacking. I would expect a higher pitched clacking from a mis-adjusted lifter. I don't have a spare valve cover to cut up, so I can't check clearances. I really don't think that's the problem given the intermittent nature of the sound. I agree with you on the foreign material, but given the noise(s) I heard it seemed probable. I would have expected a keeper in a valve spring to cause some drastic damage.

Just cleaned up the work space, and no sign of the extra keepers, except for 3 I kept separate. So that makes for a total of 5 un-accounted for keepers . Every time I've had the valve cover off I've sprayed air around everywhere, never heard anything metallic rattling around and post air visual investigation didn't uncover anything. I'll take another look at the valve cover. Cams lobes and journals have been inspected and look fine. I'll pop the lifters out again and look at the bores.

I pulled 8 extra keepers from a spare head. I have 3 on hand, and I believe 3 in a bag somewhere (or it could be 4). So I either have 1 or 2 unaccounted for keepers. Or maybe more, I need to find that damn bag of extra keepers. The problem is I did this job late at night and didn't keep track of things when I called it a night at 3am. Its not the sump o-rings since I replace them every time the pan is off. Also it doesn't sound like a typical lack of upper end lubrication problem. Galling of the lifter bore is a possiblity, but I tested each installed lifter/spring/retainer with the valve compressor tool and they all moved with the same amount of resistance. If this was the cause of the problem, wouldn't it be a consistent sound that would progressively decrease in intensity as the gall was sanded down? Not coming from the VVT hubs. I already dropped the pan and replaced it with a new pan and replaced the intake tube, seals and inspected the lower end.

Took all the lifters and retainers back off to look for a rouge keeper. Nothing. All springs, keepers and retainers look fine and were installed properly. The only thing I could think of is a mis-seated lower spring seat, but it doesn't seem like that would cause an intermittent sound. I don't want to put the valve cover back on without changing/finding anything definitive. Anyone have ideas on what else to check?

Apparently that wasn't the only one though. Using an inspection camera I looked at every valve spring and in every nook of the head - couldn't find a thing. I started the engine this morning after getting everything back together and still had a very loud top end noise. It went away after 20 seconds of idle, but I could occasionally hear a light tick/clack. First thought was that a keeper got stuck in a valve spring and then worked itself free. I convinced myself that I was just hearing things and then drove the car out of the driveway and down the block, only for the top end noise to come back in full force. I'm going to pull all the spring retainers and inspect every inch of the head, like I should have done the first time. Hopefully this time nothing got bent.

As I was holding a keeper above the retainer, the tool slipped and kicked the tweezers. I assumed it went across the room after I couldn't find it in the head. I pulled the valve cover again and spent a good half hour looking for the little bastard. Couldn't see anything and all the valves looked fine. Compressed air in each cylinder confirms that none of the valves are bent. I'm going to pull the pan and take a look down there, I need to do it anyways due to a package I'll be receiving from Hussein later this evening

Just replaced valve stem seals and re-did the cam cover crankcase baffles. I dropped a keeper that I assumed flew out of the valve cover. I guess it didn't... Motor may need to come out, I'm waiting for the morning for a full diagnosis.