Tightmopedman9

?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? Damn

I added that wire so he could switch his WMI on using the ECU. It is not hooked up yet.

Yes, fixing the dwell map axis and not over dwelling the crap out of the coils helped a lot. Although, I wish I had just gone with the IGN-1A coils from the beginning. I hate thinking about the thin line between a fully saturated coil and spark scatter. I've been keeping the dwell at 3.7ms @ 13v to stay on the safe side. That's gotten me 23psi at .028" with no blowout. Ill be fabricating a new manifold soon. I just wanted to get a before and after dyno, so I'm waiting until the car is fully tuned on E85.

Finally finished my intake today. The bottom half I did when before I finished the swap and was my first real AL welding experience. No one makes a tight enough mandrel bend in 3.5" to fit, so I had do some more pie cuts. I also added some LS2 coils about a month ago.

No problem getting to the flange bolts, although the DP needs to come off to remove the BG. Doesn't take much time to undo the V-band clamps though. The car has been together for 2 months at this point, and yes the flex coupler is about 4" after the v-band. And before you ask, yes it is has the interlock liner.

Some pictures I've been meaning to post... Since I have a M66 and a single mass flywheel in the car I needed a suitable clutch. Ol' Dirty Noodle posted that a Sachs SD693 clutch has the correct shaft specs, but looking at pictures of this clutch it looked quite wimpy and probably not good for 500WHP. I ended up going with an ACT 3000204. It is a full face organic that looks considerably beefier than an 850R disc. Paired with a Sachs 707 plate I think this should combo should be plenty capable. I redid the entire wiring harness and eliminated a lot of crap I didn't need. I also integrated COP wiring, wideband wiring, oil pressure and oil temperature. I didn't have a spare set of knock sensors, so I used a set from a P2. With the EFR 7064 there wasn't any bolt on options for the turbo drain, so I chopped up a K24 drain and created my own. Sorry for the crap pictures, but the engine was swinging on a hoist when I took these... I found a straight 5' section of stainless 3" pipe at a local scrap yard, so I decided to use it for my DP. I think the filler rod ended up being more expensive than the actual pipe! Welded a 6AN fitting to a spare M4.4 rail... And then she was ready to drop in! I'll get some more pictures up in a few days.

http://freematics.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=53 OBDII emulator.

If I run into blowout issues again I will try higher dwell, but the pre-fire condition has me a bit scared. Did you test the saturation current with the coils heated up?

Between 4.1ms and 4.6ms of dwell (at 13V) I couldn't run more than 10psi of boost. When reduced to 3.5ms I could run 20psi without problems. I'm still above 70% efficiency at 20psi on the EFR7064, so this isn't much different than 20psi on your turbo. I understand that this isn't the full saturation time that the coils are spec'd at requiring, but these coils have a known problem with pre-firing when over charged: http://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/740107-tech-the-944-951-ignition-system-9.html#post10237916 Even at only 3.5ms of dwell I'm sure these coils will be putting out a lot more spark than the stock coils. I could never maintain .032" gap at 20psi with the stock coils before, so for now, I am happy. A tiny spark plug gap is what I'm trying to avoid.

I've put about 50 miles on my LS2 coils so far. I need to clean up the wiring but this is the setup as of now: Using the dwell settings from a Silverado I had a dwell of 4.6ms at my average operation voltage of 13.4 volts. With this amount of dwell I had lots of knock and spark blowout at 10psi with a spark gap of .032". I lowered the dwell to 3.5ms and was able to run 20psi at .032" without breakup.

These aren't the dwell times you are using for the LS2 coils, are they?

Which 1000cc injectors are you planning on running? I am running the DeatschWerks 900cc and love them. They actually flow 1000cc at 3 bar and were less than $400 for the set. I can idle the car all the way down to 15.3 AFR without problems.

I'm not really sure why you have so much trouble with your ignition coils. I've never burned up a stock coil nor have I had any customers do so. I'm almost done with my ls2 coil setup which I should be switching to tomorrow or the day after.

Gdog, you can decrease the time to complete the readiness test through TunerPro. 'Trips required for readiness' there are two values, one in the lowerbank and one in the upperbank.

If your calipers get hot enough to expand that much, than you'll want them to be rubbing the wheels because they won't be doing much stopping the normal way. Clearance is clearance, and I've seen setups with less without problems.

I've never had a valve cover leak when using the pink goo, except when I forgot to tighten the valve cover bolts . A trick I use for getting the mating surfaces 100% clean is a hardwood block (walnut, oak, cherry) planned flat and faced with a sheet of 220. Spray the sandpaper with a bit of WD40 and start sanding. The size of the block of wood helps you keep the sandpaper perfectly horizontal to the deck and prevents uneven gouging. You can get a very fine surface RA using this method.

Yes, I should have. Although, with the car running, it doesn't seem to be leaking at all. The bypass valve is connected to the vacuum tree, directly after the throttle. I know that right now the TCV is not controlling boost. The specifications for the TCV signal are 32hz max and .72A average current consumption. The ECU should be able to sink enough current without problem, but I can't remember what the speed of the control frequency is. I vaguely remember 25hz, but can't find anything to substantiate that. The BW documentation states that signal polarity matters; I assumed that polarity wouldn't matter, so maybe I have the wires reversed.

Good, lol. I need to update this thread, haha. I'm only at 300 miles, so I have another 200 miles until the clutch is broken in and I can turn up the boost. For the time being, I'm on wastegate boost at ~13psi, at which I'm pulling 1150kg/hr (typical maximum airflow seen from a 19t). I've been running about 22º of timing at this boost level. Usually I can only run 7.5-8º of timing at a similar RPM and airflow on a 19t. Boost onset RPM is very slow right now, despite the adequate amount of pre-load. I'll be investigating this today.

Correct, PTFE. I opted for E85, that's why I went for a metal element.

I used what is probably the cheapest AN hose and fittings on the market, and at the time of install I was really thinking that when all was said and done, it would smell like gas or leak. I haven't had a single problem with the fittings or the line and its been ~8 months since the install. However, the PTFE liner is thicker than other lines I have seen, so the ID is alighlty smaller. Anfittingsdirect.comcom BTW, is that paper filter E85 compatible? I thought your were planning on getting corny with this build.

If he was referring to the crush sleeve, it doesn't need to be replaced as long as you don't crush it more than it already is. Maintaining correct pinion preload is what is important, and you don't need a need crush sleeve to keep the preload within spec.

Hussein, what is this 'tensioning sleeve' you are referring to? Do you mean the crush collar? As for the tightening torque, torque the P80 bevel gears to 132ft/lbs and be done. I doubted it when I heard it, but I torqued two bevel gears to 132ft/lbs and I measured 12 and 14 in/lbs bearing preload (10-15 is spec).

I found the problem. There is continuity between injector 4 & 5. I cut the injector harness from a P1 S40 for the EV14 connectors and I used a seam ripper when taking off the stock loom; I must have nicked the wires in the process. I haven't fixed the problem, but a scope confirms this is the issue. In other news, the junction between the turbo and manifold is leaking. I tacked the lower two M10x1.5 studs in place (don't ask me why) and I believe this might have warped the flange. Although, it may be because of the machining of the flange. I wanted to retain as much material as possible when milling the flange flat, so a small groove was left in the flange. I believe this groove is the cause of the leak and the single layer gasket I used is not enough to seal it. I'm going to get a stock 300zx T3 turbo gasket: Since the lower studs are tacked in place, I'll have to slot the bottom bolt holes and slide the gasket in. I'll coat it in a thin layer of axle grease to form a carbon seal when heat cycled. And I'll be crossing my fingers extra hard since there isn't any way for me to remove the manifold without pulling the engine. Hussein, I appreciate the troubleshooting, but when not firing on all the cylinders vacuum isn't a very good indication of anything. The IAC will be open to keep the idle up, and the idle is usually low or high. Also, I've found that AFR has a large effect on vacuum readings. I've timed these RN heads a hundred times, and checking cam timing was one of the first things I did. It was fine. I think the fuel pressure drop is a leak in between the fuel pump outlet and the pump, inside the tank. I'm re-doing the entire assembly to help with fuel slosh and a small seep at the right angle outlet. With the upgraded suspension I can starve the engine even before breaking the tires loose when at or below a half tank. I think I figured out a way to fix the issue though.

I am beyond stumped. I started going through a lot of troubleshooting without much of a logical process, just hoping that something will jump out at me as obviously wrong. Unfortunately, that hasn't happened. So, I switched my methodology, and haven't made anything clearer. The current problem appears to be that cylinders #4 and #5 are not operating. I'm basing this on the color of the plugs. I put in brand new plugs and they all shows signs of combustion, except for #4 and #5. What I established, is that with the coils out of the cylinders, I didn't have spark on coil #1 or #3. However, with the coils in the cylinders, I can verify that the car is running on #1 and #3 by unplugging the respective injectors and noticing a change in idle quality. Regardless, I cut the signal lead at both coils and jumpered it straight from the ECU. This got me spark with the coils out of the cylinders, but it didn't make a difference to how the car ran. I checked compression on #4 and #5 and got 120 (barometric pressure today was 12.3psi, 8.5*12.3 = 104psi so 120 is good for a cold engine). I blew out the cylinders with compressed air and squirted some machine oil in. After running again and pulling all the plugs I can see that cylinders 1-3 were firing, but 4 and 5 are still clean.

I've been able to get the car to idle now, but only on 3 cylinders. With the COP harness I integrated into the stock loom, I don't get spark on #1 or #3. Switching to another COP harness I get spark on all cylinders when testing, but the engine still runs rough, unplugging #4 and #5 injectors does nothing and the spark plugs are covered in gas. I tried a combination of the two harnesses and that didn't work.