Tightmopedman9

What gear? What type of dyno?

Pics?

I used the fuel line that came with the AEM pump. I certainly hope that the fuel line they provided is rated for fuel submersion, but thinking about it I never double checked. I'll give them a call on Monday to check. I was/am a little worried about the proximity of the fuel lines to the exhaust, but I had my old rubber hoses just as close and never had any issues. I'll bust out the infrared thermometer right after some aggressive driving and see what the temperature is. I'm planning on upgrading to a tubular manifold, so I might consider shielding the lines at that point. For the time being, I really like the look of them as-is. I would like to tell you how I found out about the Corvette shocks, but I think if I gave you an actual figure for the amount of time I spend on a computer researching such things you would get sick. It actually wasn't too bad once I knew what I was looking for. The majority of after market shock distributors post lists of all their shocks. I knew the weight, length and then had to make an educated guess on lower mount style. Orientation was also a consideration since I wanted twin tube shocks.

I ran those 20mm front and 25mm rear spacers with +43ET TDRs 215/45R17. Really not a good choice on thickness, I had a substantial amount of rubbing. I think 18mm front and 20mm rear would have been much better. I was planning on getting them shaved, but I'm planning on mounting +50ET 18's, so I'll reconsider once I get the new wheels.

2 months ago I was made aware of a very clean Silver '98 V70R that had been totaled due to a bent rim and subframe. The owner wanted to sell the car for the buy back price from the insurance company, as long as the car would go to a loving owner. I checked out the car out and knew I had to have it. $850 later and it was mine! I’ve had my white 850 for 8 years. I’ve learned the majority of what I know today directly and indirectly due to that car. In the process of learning I made a lot of questionable and irreversible modifications. I want this V70R to be modified with attention to detail and quality. My aim for this car is a reliable, high horsepower car that retains all of its comforts, and feels confident at speed/handling/braking. The end goal is to swap the engine from the 850 into the V70R with a target of 500AWHP. I haven’t decided on the final turbo setup, but I will be upgrading from the 20G. First thing up was the fuel system. I never want to worry about fuel delivery problems but the stock AWD fuel system is very hindered from the factory. Directly proceeding the stock fuel pump is a nozzle orifice with a 4mm outlet! After this orifice the fuel has to make 2 90º bends in under an inch at which point the line size is 8mm ID to the fuel rail. I decided to replace the in tank fuel line with a 10mm ID hard steel line with smooth bends. Then 6AN stainless steel line from the sender to an Aeromotive FPR. To facilitate the fuel modifications I decided to remove the entire rear subframe. I wanted to take the time to inspect all of the bushings and replace any rotted fuel lines. Luckily, being a Colorado car its entire life there was no rust and all the bushings and fuel lines looked to be in excellent condition. I brass brazed a 6AN fitting to the end of the 10mm steel line. Then brazed the entire assembly to the new sender top. I know it isn’t pretty, but this is the first time I’ve ever brazed; the fittings are solid and leak free. The stock plastic fuel pump housing is held in alignment with a spring, this spring is retained with a slip washer and I wasn’t confident that this slip washer would remain put and removal and installation, so I decided to thread the end of the fuel return and use a nut. Interstingly, I had two senders and they had different diameter fuel returns. The one on the left is from my V70R the one on the right is from a 2000 XC. I elected to use the larger diameter return. I used an Aeromotive stealth pump and fabricated and extension piece to center the pump inlet in the housing. All finished. Coming directly off the sender I have a right angle 6AN fitting. The fitting is very tight, but clears the body with enough room to allow for movement of the fuel tank. Luckily the 6AN fits in the stock undercarriage fuel line carrier. I used a Holley 100GPH billet fuel filter which fits neatly under the car. Purely for cosmetics, I converted the stock return line to braided line right at the transition to the engine bay. I installed an Aeromotive 13129 right above the A/C lines. For the time being I’m using a 5AN to 6AN straight adapter for the fuel rail. This is a temporary solution until I weld a 6AN bung to the fuel rail. Next up was the suspension. I know that there is a very limited amount of options for the rear of a P80 AWD and I wasn’t very excited at the prospect of paying upwards of $1,300 for half of my suspension setup so I decided to cobble together my own. I started with Kaplhenke’s rear coilover spring and bumpstop retainer setup. I went with 350# 8” springs. For the shocks I used QA1 adjustable shocks originally intended for the front of a C5/C6 Corvette. The Corvette front corner weight is approximately 875 lbs, which should be around the same weight as the rear of a P80 AWD. The compressed and extended height also happens to be almost identical at 16.19”/11.2”. The lower mounting point is a ‘T-bar’ mount, and although the Corvette mounting bolts are much too close together to bolt up to a P80, QA1 makes a 5” T-bar mount which can modified to bolt up directly, the mounting ears must be widened by 1/8". The shocks have a single knob for adjustment, but the knob adjusts both rebound and compression simultaneously. For those who want more adjustability they also offer a double adjustable variant. With the car on a lift adjustment is extremely easy. I haven’t tried adjusting with the car on the ground, but I don’t think it would be very hard at all. The Kaplhenke perch and spring setup was $345 and the shocks were $319, so the whole setup was less then $670! I also installed IPD sway bars front and rear. I decided to run a coilover setup for the front as well. I was given a pair of TA Technix coilovers for free and decided to use them as a base. In their stock form they gave the worst ride I had ever experienced in any vehicle I had been in. They use terrible 6” springs that bind with anything over 1” of travel. The springs are ridiculously stiff and the shocks horribly underdamped. I stroked the shaft by hand and could move the shaft in and out with just my index finger… Anyways, I decided to try out the struts with the stock inserts just to see how they would do. I plan on placing Koni adjustable inserts in the bodies in a short time. I used a set of high travel (low stack height) 9” 350# springs with Kaplhenke upper mounts and Luxesteer™. It almost felt sacrilegious pairing these beautiful mounts with Technixs, but it’s only temporary. To get decent ride height I had to use the helper spring from the Technix. I will be going to a dual spring setup in the future, so the helper is only temporary. That’s it for this installment, check in next week for brakes!

The Synchronic BOV is awesome, fastest responding BOV I've ever used or witnessed. However, it is so sensitive that it will vent under very minimal pressure differentials. Not a big deal if you're re-circulating, but a nightmare if you're not.

The anti-surge housing can delay spool up by 200-300 RPMs, and for me the extended tip compressor wheel completely eliminated surge.

In the US the vast majority of gasoline suppliers switched to ethanol to oxygenate fuels, so I'm not sure why a lack of MTBE compatibility should be a problem.

I've had my LTFTs turned off for quite some time due to my BOV staying open at part load. I overlaid the runs with the 15G I tuned for an idea on the powerband differences: I did take some videos, but the I had someone else operating the camera for the runs and they ended up not being in focus or having much of the car in the shot.

I do not know, although I didn't seem to have any fuel irregularities when using the stock FPR up to 26psi.

The point at which I believe my FPR stops increasing fuel pressure happens to occur right in the middle of an RPM window axis, at 3600RPM. In order to account for it I have to increase my WOT fueling substantially, so the fueling is very rich at 3600, then lean by 4100RPM then levels out past 4200RPM. This is using an adapted version of Piet's closed loop wideband regulation. I'll be swapping to a new chassis soon at which I'll run 6AN lines and an Aeromotive FPR.

After dyno tuning a customer's car today I decided to throw my car on the dyno and see what sort of power I was putting down. I only did two runs and didn't do any tuning while on the dyno. This was on a Dyno-Jet. This is at 21-22 psi. My TCV is currently dead, so I had to use a crappy MBC that I made from Home Depot parts when I was in highschool. Therefore my boost isn't very stable and that's the reason for the lumpy power curve at the end. I wanted to run more boost, but I believe my FPR can't do more then 5.5 bar so my injectors are at 90%, leaving no room for more boost.

Sorry, I didn't mean to be rude. I just can't get behind the idea of spending hundreds of dollars on just copper wire.

The routine switches the VE map so that the fueling values will increase even though the load isn't You're tuning at wide open throttle on what I would assume is the same road. Sure your fueling is fine now, but what happens when you actually go out and drive the car on a different road or under different conditions? I would bet that your actual load is around 18-20ms at peak VE. With your load maxed out your fuel input will be the same whether you're at 12.24ms or load or 20ms of load. When you're on the dyno and your actual load is lower you'll run rich since the ECU will be referencing cells that were tuned for a much higher 'actual' load. The same thing will happen if you're at part throttle while maxing out the load or going down a hill.

I max out load at around 3800 RPM on my setup, then fueling becomes hard to keep steady. I set up a VE map switcher that switches the VE map based on airflow values when the load is maxed. I'm still working on it, but I can share a version with you once I feel confident in it. By the way, I'm looking for your details about your DW300 in tank install, but can't find it because your sig has DW300 in it. Can you point me to the correct page?

Holy crap. What caused this?

Very nice, a little bit of knock, but just a bit. What is up with the knock % column?

Checking if your O2 is operational is extremely easy using tunerpro. Compare you nominal air consumption at idle to your old logs, see if it matches and if it doesn't, you know you have an air leak.

Love gold and blue! Can't wait to see it out of the garage!

You could pull the battery cable from an S80, they have a rear mounted battery and use 0ga wire, IIRC.

I can help you try out COP for M4.4 if you'd like.

Liking your coil setup, I'm thinking about using my fuel rail cover to mount my LS2 coils.

http://www.lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4&Itemid=88

I was thinking about a class AB (transistor). I had a really good DIY amplifier website bookmarked a while ago, but can't find it now.

Do you have experience with anything in the same price range ($160 for the drivers and ~$110 for the wood) that you would recommend? My Physics professor in college had these same drivers and cabinet in his office, we once had a listening session with his 120W class A tube amp (a winter only setup ) and I was blown away. Granted this was only at a moderate volume, I don't need anything super loud myself, but it would be nice to have the option.